DROPS / 170 / 21

Sweet Apples by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS apple pot holders in "Paris".

  • Sweet Apples / DROPS 170-21 - Crochet DROPS apple pot holders in Paris.
DROPS design: Pattern no w-606
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
The piece measures approx. 20 cm in diameter.

Materials (for 2 pot holders):
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 17, off white
100 g color no 12, red
50 g color no 43, green
Some left-over yarn color no 44, brown

One pot holder weighs 78 g.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 18 dc = width 10 cm / 4''.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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100% Cotton
from 1.80 CAD /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 CAD /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 CAD /50g
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 9.00CAD. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
On every dc round, replace first dc with ch 3, finish with 1 sl st in first third ch.
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POT HOLDER:
Crochet 4 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with off white and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work * 1 hdc, 2 dc * repeat from *-* 4 times in total around ch-ring – READ CROCHET TIP! = 4 hdc and 8 dc.
ROUND 2: Work 2 hdc in every hdc and 2 dc in every dc = 8 hdc and 16 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 3: Work * 1 hdc in first hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 12 hdc and 24 dc.
ROUND 4: Work * 1 hdc in each of the first 2 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total = 16 hdc and 32 dc.
ROUNDS 5-8: Continue with inc as before, on every round work 1 more hdc/dc between inc = 32 hdc and 64 dc.
ROUND 9: Continue with inc as before, on every round work 1 st more between inc BUT now work as follows over the 96 sts from previous round: 1 sc in each of the first 9 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 12 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in each of the next 12 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 tr in each of the next 3 sts, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 hdc in each of the next 3 sts, 1 sc in the last st = 108 sts.
ROUND 10: Switch to red, work 1 sc in every sc and 1 hdc in every hdc, 1 dc in every dc and work 2 tr in every tr and 2 dc in every dc on each side of tr.

Embroider two seeds in the middle of the front of pot holder with brown - see photo.

Work another pot holder but now work pot holder in red.

CROCHET TOG:
Place 2 pot holders on top of each other WS against WS, and crochet them tog with red as follows: Work through both layers: Work 1 sc in every st but work 2 sc in each of the middle 4 tr at each corner.

LEAF:
Work 14 ch with green, turn and work 1 sc in second ch from hook, 1 sc in next st, 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 tr in next ch, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 sc in next ch, 2 sc in next ch, then work on the under side of ch as follows: 1 sc in next ch, 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 tr in next ch, 1 dc in each of the next ch 2, 1 hdc in each of the next ch 2, 1 sc in each of the last ch 2, fasten off. Work 2 leaves.

STRAP AND STEM:
Work 27 ch with brown, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each of the next ch 2, fasten 1 leaf to stem with 1 sc through 1 st on leaf and 1 ch on stem, repeat one more time. Do the same with next leaf, work 1 sc in each of the remaining ch, place the stem into a ring fasten with 1 sl st through all layers (both pot holder and stem). Fasten off.
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Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-21) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (26)

country flag Marie Diamond 16.12.2020 - 00:50:

I’m totally failing. Looking at the questions people are sending it seems that round 9 is creating a big problem. Please confirm the following: first I have 96 stitches where the increase are in the 7th stich of every section. Please explain which stitch I have to add in the 7th stitch prior to increasing. If you have a document showing all the stitches I have to follow it would be great otherwise I’m abandonning and will have to find another pattern to use all the yarn I ordered.

user icon DROPS Design 16.12.2020 kl. 07:07:

Dear Mrs Diamond, you started to increase on round 4 with always 1 more stitch between each increase as on round 5 to 8: there were 1 stitch between 2 increases on round 4, there were 5 sts between 2 increases on round 8 and now you will have 6 sts between 2 increases on round 9, but at the same time, you will work all stitches as decribed under round 9, and not only with hdc and dc as before. Happy crocheting!

country flag Marie Diamond 15.12.2020 - 02:52:

Round 9-can you give me the correct way to do it: the inc should be as follows: 7 sc 2 sc in eight stitch, 3 hdc 4 dc 2 tr in same stitch 1tr, 3 dc 3 hdc 2 sc in same stitch 7 sc 2 sc in same stitch 1 sc 3 hdc 3 dc etc.

user icon DROPS Design 15.12.2020 kl. 08:43:

Dear Mrs Diamond, continue to increase on same places as before (in the corners = 1 stitch more between each increase), but instead of working only hdc and dc you will crochet also sc and trebles, ie as explained under row 9. Happy crocheting!

country flag Gabriela Lomelín 22.11.2020 - 02:57:

Hola, se teje en espiral o en círculo? Y si es en círculo se cierra con punto enano?

user icon DROPS Design 22.11.2020 kl. 11:23:

Hola Gabriela, se trabaja en círculo y se termina con 1 punto enano en el 1º/2º/3º punto de cadeneta, dependiendo del punto de inicio de la vuelta.

country flag Gwenaël 14.08.2020 - 16:05:

Juste pour dire que j'ai compris en crochettant; souvenirs de granny. 😉 Merci. 🙂

user icon DROPS Design 17.08.2020 kl. 07:53:

Bonjour Gwenaël et merci :) N'hésitez pas à partager vos photos avec nous via notre groupe DROPS Workshop ou bien notre galerie #dropsfan - Bonne continuation!

country flag Gwenaël 14.08.2020 - 13:09:

J'ai beau retourner le problème dans tous les sens; je ne vois pas d'augmentation/où les mettre, ou intercaler de nouvelles mailles...; dommage que ce ne soit pas plus précis pour celles qui ne sont pas habituées au crochet ou qu'il n'y ait pas une grille, cela aurait été plus clair. 😉

user icon DROPS Design 14.08.2020 kl. 13:33:

Bonjour Gwenaël, vous continuez les augmentations commencées au tour 4, avec toujours 1 maille en plus entre chaque augmentation comme aux tours 5 à 8, autrement dit, quand vous aviez 1 maille entre 2 augmentations au tour 4, vous en aviez 5 au tour 8 et donc maintenant vous en aurez 6 au tour 9, en même temps, vous crochetez les mailles comme décrit au rang 9 et donc pas en dB et B uniquement comme avant. Bonne continuation!

country flag Gwenaël 14.08.2020 - 10:16:

Bonjour, comme beaucoup je coince au rang 9; doit-on rajouter des augmentations 2dB et 2B à intervalle régulier (12 au total)? Merci. 🙂

user icon DROPS Design 14.08.2020 kl. 11:12:

Bonjour Gwenaël, les augmentations se font comme avant (vous avez 1 maille en plus entre chaque augmentation du tour précédent), mais au lieu de ne crocheter que des demi-brides et des brides, vous allez également crocheter des mailles serrées et des double-brides. Alignez les augmentations comme avant tout simplement, et crochetez les mailles comme indiqué sur le 9ème tour pour former le carré. Bon crochet!

country flag May Jorun Hammer 14.07.2019 - 17:23:

Hei! Ble usikker når jeg kom til omg 9. Har nå 96 masker, men hvordan øke i denne omg?

user icon DROPS Design 26.08.2019 kl. 13:29:

Hei May Jorun. Du øker som før, men samtidig følger du beskrivelsen (av hvilken masker som det skal hekles) som står under 9. omgang. God Fornøyelse.

country flag House 19.05.2019 - 16:27:

Bonjour! il y a une erreur de frappe probablement dans les instructions en Français: au rand numero 9, il est dit , pour les mailles serrées d'en faire 2 (la deuxième fois!)alors que c'est 12 ! Je me suis cassé la tête un moment avant d'aller vérifier dans les instructions anglaises! merci de corriger.,

user icon DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 13:58:

Bonjour Mme House, les explications en français sont bien conformes - tout comme celles en anglais - au modèle original en norvégien. Bon crochet!

country flag House 18.05.2019 - 09:45:

Bonjour vous dites: consulter les astuces crochet mais je ne les trouve nulle part!!! Pouvez vous m'aider svp?

user icon DROPS Design 20.05.2019 kl. 09:58:

Bonjour Mme House, l'astuce crochet a été ajoutée - elle concerne le début/la fin des tours. Bon crochet!

country flag Yvonne 21.11.2018 - 18:33:

Hallo, hat schon jemand diesen Topflappen gehäkelt und kann mir Runde 9 verständlich erklären? Dankeschön

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