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  7. 13

Pink Sorbet by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS shawl in garter st with short rows and picot edge in “Cotton Merino”.

Keywords: garter stitch, shawl

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DROPS 170-13
DROPS design: Pattern no cm-044
Yarn group B
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Measurements: Length on the middle: approx. 33 cm / 13'' Width: approx. 140 cm / 55''
Materials:
DROPS COTTON MERINO from Garnstudio
350 g color no 13, coral

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 42 rows in garter st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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50% Wool, 50% Cotton 		from 4.45 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour DROPS Cotton Merino uni colour 4.45 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd 		Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.15$. Read more.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

PICOT EDGE:
Worked over the last 4 sts on row (seen from RS):
Row 1 (= RS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 3 (= RS): K 2 tog, 1 YO, K 2 sts in each of the last 2 sts on row (= 2 sts inc and 6 sts in picot edge).
Row 4 (= WS): Slip first st as if to K, K 1 and psso, K 1 and slip the last st on right needle over the foremost st (= dec 2 sts), K 3.
Repeat rows 1 to 4.

INCREASE TIP:
All inc are done from RS.
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO. On next row K YO twisted to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS!
Beg 2 sts before marker, K 2 tog.

SHORT ROWS:
Work short rows at the end of every row from RS and at beg of every row from WS, AT THE SAME TIME continue picot edge after marker (seen from RS).
Row 1 (= RS) and every row from RS: K until marker, work picot edge.
Row 2 (= WS): Work picot edge until marker, K 21, turn piece.
Row 4: Work picot edge until marker, K 18, turn piece.
Row 6: Work picot edge until marker, K 15, turn piece.
Row 8: Work picot edge until marker, K 12, turn piece.
Row 10: Work picot edge until marker, K 9, turn piece.
Row 12: Work picot edge until marker, K 6, turn piece.
Row 14: Work picot edge until marker, K 3, turn piece.
Row 16: Work picot edge until marker, then K the rest of row - NOTE: To avoid holes in transitions between turns on fan, slip yarn between 2 sts in every turn twisted back on needle and K tog with the next st on left needle.
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SHAWL:
Work entire shawl in GARTER ST - see explanation above, with picot edge along one side. Worked back and forth on circular needle from side to side.

Cast on 6 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Cotton Merino. K 1 row from WS. Insert 1 marker after the first 2 sts on row (seen from RS) = 4 sts after marker for picot edge. Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K 1, inc 1 st – READ INCREASE TIP, K 1, marker, work PICOT EDGE – see explanation above.
Row 2 (= WS): Work picot edge until marker, K the rest of row (K YO twisted).
Row 3: K until marker, work picot edge.
Row 4: Work picot edge until marker, K the rest of row.
Row 5: K until 1 st remains before marker, inc 1 st, K 1, work picot edge.
Row 6: Work picot edge until marker, K the rest of row (K YO twisted).
Row 7: K until marker, work picot edge.
Row 8: Work picot edge until marker, K the rest of row.

Repeat 5th-8th row 27 more times = 35 sts on row. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
* Work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above (= 16 rows in total - NOTE: Continue inc before picot edge as before every 4th row). After short rows work 6 ridges back and forth over all sts with picot edge as before *, repeat from *-* 4 more times. There are now 70 sts on row and piece measures approx. 45 cm / 17 3/4'' (measures at beg of row seen from RS). Insert a marker at beg of row (seen from RS).

Inc are now done. Continue as follows from RS: * Work short rows (= 16 rows in total), work 6 ridges back and forth over all sts with picot edge as before *, repeat from *-* 14 more times, then work 1 repetition more with short rows (= 16 rows). Piece measures 50 cm / 19 3/4'' from marker and approx. 95 cm / 37½'' cast-on edge.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Now dec beg. Work as follows: * Work 6 ridges back and forth over all sts with picot edge as before but now dec 1 st every 4th row (i.e. every other row from RS) – READ DECREASE TIP. After the 6 ridges work short rows (continue dec before picot edge as before every 4th row) *, repeat from *-* 4 more times = 35 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 112 cm / 44'' from cast-on edge.

Then work as follows:
Row 1 (= RS): K until 2 st remains before marker, dec 1 st, work picot edge.
Row 2 (= WS): Work picot edge until marker, K the rest of row.
Row 3: K until marker, work picot edge.
Row 4: Work picot edge until marker, K the rest of row.

Repeat 1st-4th row 28 more times = 6 sts remain on row. K 1 row from RS and bind off with K from WS.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 170-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!
1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
2) What are the yarn groups?
3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
4) How do I use the yarn converter?
5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?
7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
8) What is a repeat?
9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?
15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
22) Where on the garment is the length measured?
23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (16)

country flag Carole wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour la rapidité. Dernière question, la suite dit de faire une autre série de 16 rangs raccourcis. Est-ce avec les 6 côtes mousse comme la suite précédente et encore 15 fois? Merci.

26.08.2019 - 17:30

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, vous devez ensuite tricoter les 16 rangs des RANGS RACCOURCIS seulement (ceux expliqués au tout début des explications). Bon tricot!

27.08.2019 - 09:19

country flag Carole wrote:

Bonjour, j'ai terminé les augmentations et cela dit de continuer à faire les rangs raccourcis et les côtes mousse encore 14 fois. Est ce vraiment 14 fois ou 15 fois vu qu'ils disent "Encore"? De plus, par la suite, ça dit de faire une autre série de rang raccourcis. Est-ce avec les 6 côtes mousse comme la suite précédente et est-ce encore 14 ou 15 fois? Merci.

26.08.2019 - 15:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, on répète de *-* encore 14 fois, autrement dit, on va tricoter de *à* 15 fois au total. Bon tricot!

26.08.2019 - 16:22

country flag Carole wrote:

Merci beaucoup pour les explications, mais la chose que je ne comprend pas c’est que je me demande ce que vous voulez dire par 6 côtes mousse? Pour moi des côtes c’est comme faire une bordure de manche. 🙄

20.08.2019 - 02:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, pour former 1 côte mousse, on doit tricoter 2 rangs endroit - cf POINT MOUSSE au début des explications, ainsi, pour avoir 6 côtes mousse, on va tricoter 12 rangs endroit. Bon tricot!

20.08.2019 - 09:25

country flag Carole wrote:

Bonjour, Je fais le modèle 170-13, et je suis rendu aux rangs raccourcis. Cependant, je ne comprend ce que l’on veut dire par 6 côtes mousse? voir le texte copié ci-dessous. “ Après les rangs raccourcis, tricoter 6 côtes mousse en allers et retours sur toutes les mailles avec la bordure picot comme avant*, répéter de *-* encore 4 fois“

19.08.2019 - 00:38

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Carole, la partie à répéter est la suivante: 16 rangs en rangs racourcis (4 augmentations) + 12 rangs (= 6 côtes mousse (= 3 augmentations)) soit 28 rangs au total que vous répétez 5 fois au total; Vous avez maintenant 70 mailles (= 35 m + 5 fois 7 augmentations). Bon tricot!

19.08.2019 - 11:22

country flag Zaza wrote:

Merci, cordialement zaza

12.02.2018 - 15:43

country flag Zaza wrote:

Bonjour, Merci pour votre réponse mais cela ne me dit pas si j'ai bien compris quand j'explique les points que je fais. Par contre, quand on regarde la photo du modele il y a à mon avis des trous je pense qu'ils représentent chaque transition des rangs raccourcis si on les évite à mon avis cela enlèvera le charme du modele merci de votre réponse zaza

12.02.2018 - 11:08

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Zaza, en fonction de là où vous en êtes de la bordure picot, il m'est difficile de vous dire quel rang tricoter, mais suivez les rangs de la bordure picot comme avant aux rangs raccourcis. Pour les jours des rangs raccourcis, tricotez simplement comme expliqué: tricotez le nombre de mailles indiqué, tournez et tricotez les mailles indiqué et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

12.02.2018 - 14:18

country flag Zaza wrote:

Bonjour, je suis arrivée aux rangs raccourcis. Rang 1 : 30 m end, 1 jeté, 1 m end, 4 m end (rg 1 bordure) Rang 2 : 4 m end, 21 m end, tourner Les Rangs 3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13, 15 ne sont pas noté Je pense que le rang 3 se fait ainsi : 21 m end, 2 m ensemble a l'endroit, 1 jeté, tricoter 2 fois à l'endroit chacune des 2 dernières mailles Pourriez vous me dire si j'ai bien compris Merci pour votre aide zaza

10.02.2018 - 11:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Zaza, sur l'endroit, tricotez à l'endroit jusqu'au marqueur et terminez par la bordure picot (à celui des 4 rans correspondansts) c'est-à-dire comme au 1er rang, en ajustant le rang de la bordure picot. Bon tricot!

12.02.2018 - 08:35

country flag Helle wrote:

Sorry, I didnt read it right, now I understand :o))

15.01.2017 - 12:34

Helle wrote:

Hey garnstudio 😀 you have written, that we will repeat the pattern 14 times in the last time we knit the center, is it not 4 times like first time of the center of the sjal ?

11.01.2017 - 10:07

Anna wrote:

Hello, I have a problem with stitch count. Before starting the short rows I have 35 stitches. After I finish the whole set of short rows I am supposed to have 70 stitches. I will be nowhere near that - it will be around 60 stitches. Also when make this calculation: 16 short rows + 6 extra rows =22 22x5 repeats= 110 rows. That divided by 4 as we have increase every 4 row comes to 27.5. That plus 35 stitches which I already had comes to 62.5... Please help - what am I doing wrong?

26.08.2016 - 11:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, before short rows you have 35 sts, then work *16 short rows (4 sts inc) + 6 ridges (= 3 sts inc)*, and repeat from *-* a total of 5 times: 5 x 7 sts inc = 35 sts inc + 35 sts =70 sts. Happy knitting!

26.08.2016 - 11:19

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