DROPS / 169 / 10

Vintage Charmer by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with a small cable edge, lace pattern and raglan in ”BabyMerino” or "DROPS ♥ You #7". Size: XS - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no bm-025
Yarn group A
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Size: XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS BABY MERINO from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500-550 g color no 44, powder

Or use:
Materials:
DROPS ♥ You #7 from Garnstudio
350-350-400-450-450-500-550 g colour no 08, vanilla

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm/US 2.5 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 2.5 mm/ US 1.5 - for rib and edges.
DROPS CABLE NEEDLE - for cable edge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 4.20 $ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 4.20 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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100% Cotton
1.40 $ /50g
DROPS ♥ You #7 DROPS ♥ You #7 1.40 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 29.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (worked in the round):
1 ridge = 2 rounds. * K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.4.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of marker as follows: Work until 1 sts remain before marker: Make 1 YO, work 2 sts in stockinette st (marker is in the middle of these 2 sts), make 1 YO. On next round K YOs twisted to avoid holes - NOTE: Work inc sts in stockinette st until they fit the pattern.

RAGLAN:
Dec for raglan on each side of A.4 in every transition between sleeves and body.
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM RS:
Beg 2 sts before A.4, K 2 tog, A.4 (= 6 sts), slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso (= 2 sts dec).
DEC AS FOLLOWS FROM WS:
Beg 2 sts before A.4, P 2 twisted tog, A.4 (= 6 sts), P 2 tog (= 2 sts dec).

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck edge):
To calculate how often dec should be done, use the total no of sts on row (e.g. 114 sts) and divide by no of dec to be done (e.g. 10) = 11.4. I.e. in this example work alternately approx. every 10th and 11th st and every 11th and 12th st tog.


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BODY:
Worked in the round on circular needle. Cast on 322-350-378-448-476-546-574 sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino. K 1 round. Then work rib = K 2/P 5. When piece measures 3-3-3-3-4-4-4 cm / 1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1 1/8''-1½''-1½''-1½'', dec 1 st in every P-section by working the first 2 sts in every P-section P tog. Repeat dec when piece measures 4-4-4-4-5-5-5 cm / 1½''-1½''-1½''-1½''-2''-2''-2'', but now work the last 2 sts in every P-section P tog = 230-250-270-320-340-390-410 sts on needle. Now work pattern in the round according to diagram A.1 (= 23-25-27-32-34-39-41 repetitions of 10 sts). When A.1 has been worked vertically, 184-200-216-256-272-312-328 sts remain on needle and piece measures approx. 7-7-7-7-8-8-8 cm / 2¾''-2¾''-2¾''-2¾''-3 1/8''- 3 1/8''- 3 1/8''. K 1 round while at the same time dec 8-6-4-8-6-10-8 sts evenly = 176-194-212-248-266-302-320 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 and work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2. After A.2 insert 1 marker at beg of round and 1 marker after 88-97-106-124-133-151-160 sts. Then work as follows: * Work A.3A (= 6 sts), repeat A.3B over the next 72-81-90-108-117-135-144 sts (= 8-9-10-12-13-15-16 repetitions of 9 sts), work A.3C (= 10 sts), marker *, repeat from *-* one more time. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE
When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', inc 1 st on each side of marker in each side - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 5-5-6-8-10-10-10 cm / 2"-2"-2½"-3"-4"-4"-4'' a total of 4-4-4-3-3-3-3 times = 192-210-228-260-278-314-332 sts - NOTE: Work inc sts in stockinette st until they fit the pattern. When piece measures 33-34-35-36-37-38-39 cm / 13"-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15''-15¼'', work next round as follows: bind off 3-3-4-4-5-5-5 sts for armhole, work 90-99-106-122-129-147-156 sts (= back piece), bind off 6-6-8-8-10-10-10 sts for armhole, work 90-99-106-122-129-147-156 sts (= front piece) and bind off the last 3-3-4-4-5-5-5 sts for armhole. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 52-52-61-61-61-70-70 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1.5 with Baby Merino. K 1 round. Then work pattern in the round according to diagram A.2 - NOTE: On 7th round in A.2 K last st on round (applies to size L + XL + XXL). When A.2 has been worked, switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2.5. Insert 1 marker at the beg of the round. Work next round as follows: Work A.3A (= 6 sts), work A.3B over the next 36-36-45-45-45-54-54 sts (= 4-4-5-5-5-6-6 repetitions of 9 sts) and finish with A.3C (= 10 sts). Continue pattern like this. When piece measures 5-6-6-7-5-9-9 cm/2"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2 3/4"-2"-3½"-3½", inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3-2½-3-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm 14-16-13-15-16-14-17 times in total = 80-84-87-91-93-98-104 sts – NOTE: Work inc sts in stockinette st until they fit the pattern again. Work until piece measures approx. 47-47-46-46-45-45-45 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke) – adjust to work the same length in repetition of A.3 as on back body before bind off for armholes. Work next round as follows: bind off 3-3-4-4-5-5-5 sts, work 74-78-79-83-83-88-94 sts and bind off the remaining 3-3-4-4-5-5-5 sts. Put piece aside and make another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle size 3 mm / US 2.5 as body where armholes were bound off (without working them first) = 328-354-370-410-424-470-500 sts. Insert 1 marker in every transition between sleeves and body = 4 markers. Continue pattern as before and work in addition A.4 in every transition between body and sleeves (markers are in the middle of A.4). AT THE SAME TIME on first round beg dec for RAGLAN – see explanation above (= 8 sts dec). Repeat dec for raglan every other round a total of 24-25-28-29-32-34-34 times and then every round a total of 4-5-2-3-0-0-3 times - NOTE: Work sts that do not fit A.3 in stockinette st when dec.
NECK: AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-50-51-53-54-56 cm / 18"-19''-19¾''-20''-21''-21¼''-22'', slip the middle 12-17-24-28-35-43-46 sts on 1 stitch holder for neck and finish piece back and forth on needle (in some sizes dec for raglan from both RS and WS). Continue with pattern and raglan as before and bind off for neck at beg of every row from the neck as follows: bind off 3 sts 0-0-0-1-1-2-2 times, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3-3-3-4-4-4-4 times.
After all dec and bind offs for raglan and neck, 78-83-92-104-111-127-130 sts remain on needle.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up from RS approx. 104-114-130-154-168-198-204 sts (includes sts on stitch holder at the front) on a short circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1.5. P 1 round. K 1 round while dec evenly to 102-104-120-122-132-136-140 sts (i.e. dec approx. 2-10-10-32-36-62-64 sts) – READ DECREASE TIP. Work 2 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above, then loosely bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 30.05.2016
SLEEVE:...When piece measures 5-6-6-7-5-9-9 cm, inc 2 sts mid under sleeve - READ INCREASE TIP. Repeat inc every 3-2½-3-2½-2½-2½-2½ cm 14-16-13-15-16-14-17 times in total = 80-84-87-91-93-98-104 sts – NOTE: Work inc sts in stocking st until they fit the pattern again. Work until piece measures approx. 47-47-46-46-45-45-45 cm (NOTE: Shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer yoke) – adjust to work the same length in repetition of A.3 as on back body before dec for armholes...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= K 2 tog
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 1 st on cable needle behind piece, K 2, P 1 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, P 1, K 2, K 2 from cable needle
= slip 2 sts on cable needle in front of piece, K 2 tog, K 2 twisted tog from cable needle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 169-10) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (56)

Tove Juhl 27.03.2020 - 17:44:

Jeg strikker normal og har gjort det i mange år men med pinde 3 og antal masker giver det ikke 10x10 med baby merino jeg skal op på pinde 4 og så bliver det jo ikke den nette bluse Jeg er ærgerlig over at have købt garn når det ikke passer Håber athøre fra jer Mvh Tove Juhl

DROPS Design 30.03.2020 kl. 15:49:

Hei Tove. Det var jo kjedelig å høre, men de aller fleste oppskrifter vi har i Baby Merino er strikket med pinne 3 og har en oppgitt strikkefasthet på 24 masker x 32 pinner. Vil ikke bruker begrepet normal strikkefasthet, da det kan varierer fra person til person og pinne størrelsen er veiledende. mvh DROPS design

Lusia 27.02.2020 - 09:22:

Hallo, Ich habe Schwierigkeiten bei der Raglanabnahme. In der Anleitung der Passe heißt es, dass in jeder 2. Runde abgenommen werden soll, die Raglanabnahme hat jedoch Abnahmen in Hin- und Rückreihen. (Verschiedene Abnahmen) Ich habe es nach Angaben der Raglanabnahme gestrickt und dabei wird Passe am Ärmel (Größe M) zu eng. Haben Sie eventuell einen Tipp hierbei für mich?

DROPS Design 27.02.2020 kl. 09:51:

Liebe Luisa, stimmt Ihre Maschenprobe? Wenn Sie keine 32 Reihe = 10 cm haben, dann sollen Sie ab un zu extra Runden/Reihen ohne Abnahmen zwischen die Runden/Reihen mit Abnahmen, damit die Höhe stimmt und der Raglan nicht zu eng wird. Für M muss man in jeder 2. Runde/Reihe 25 Mal und 5 Mal in jeder Reihe abnehmen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Lydia 02.02.2020 - 17:00:

Wenn ich den Anschlag des Rumpfteils mit einer Nadelstärke von 3,0mm statt 2,50mm mache, wie kann ich die benötigte Maschenanzahl berechnen, da im Diagramm nicht angegeben ist, wie breit der Anschlag ist. Maschenprobe ist 23 M x 30 R. Liebe Grüße

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 10:21:

Liebe Lydia, leider können wir nicht jede Anleitung nach jeder individueller Wunsch umrechnen. Denken Sie daran, Ihre Maschenprobe zu spannen um sie noch mal zu messen. Am besten immer die Maschenproben erreichen, hier lesen Sie mehr. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Héloïse 20.01.2020 - 22:11:

Bonjour, Je me pose une question pour la taille S, entre la partie empiècement et encolure. On part de 354 mailles, on fait 25x8 diminutions puis 5x8 diminutions. Il reste donc 114 mailles après l'empiècement. Dans la partie encolure, je ne compte que 7 diminutions (2 fois 2m et 3 fois 1m). Or on doit arriver à 83 mailles à la fin des diminutions du raglan et de l'encolure. Quelles sont les autres diminutions à faire pour arriver à 83 mailles ? Merci d'avance

DROPS Design 21.01.2020 kl. 09:54:

Bonjour Héloïse, il vous manque les 17 mailles mises en attente pour l'encolure: 354 - 240 m raglan = 114 - 17 m mises en attente - 14 m pour l'encolure = 83 m. Bon tricot!

Kristina 17.11.2019 - 16:20:

Meine Mama hat mir den Pulli zum Geburtstag stricken wollen und nun sind wir beide sehr frustriert: Trotz exakt genauer Maschenprobe sind bei dem Pullover mit den für Größe L angegebenen Maschenanzahlen alle Maße für Größe M rausgekommen und der aufwendig gestrickte Pullover ist mir so zu klein. Hat schon mal jmd. den Pulli in Größe L gestrickt und das gleiche Problem gehabt?

DROPS Design 18.11.2019 kl. 10:29:

Liebe Kristina, haben Sie bemerkt, daß für dieses Modell Grösse L ist 4. Grösse und nicht 3. wie üblich, denn die Anleitung auch in XS ist? In Grösse L sollen Sie dann (nach A.1 und Abnahmen) 248 Maschen haben = ca 103 cm, dh ca 52 cm wie bei der Maßskizze, Größe L. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Giedre Bøttcher 13.11.2019 - 17:50:

Hvordan bliver der 184 masker efter A1 møster? I selve møstret (A1) tages der ingen masker ind, så jeg har stadig 222 masker efter jeg har strikket A 1 færdig og hartaget de 8 masker ind.

DROPS Design 14.11.2019 kl. 11:39:

Hei Giedre! I siste omgang av mønster A.1 felles det 2 masker per mønsterrapport slik: sett 2 m på flettep foran arb, 2 rett sammen, 2 vridd rett sammen fra flettep. Det vil da felles 46 masker og maskeantallet vil tilsvare 184 masker. Lykke til!

Eb 21.10.2019 - 11:27:

Bonjour Madame, je commence le modèle taille L, et vais commencer le premier diagramme mais je n'arrive pas à comprendre comment passer de 448 puis 320 pour finir à 256 mailles. J'ai diminué comme écrit à 3 et 4 cm mais quand diminuer, ensuite SVP? Merci beaucoup de votre aide! Cordialement.

DROPS Design 21.10.2019 kl. 11:57:

Bonjour Eb, vous tricotez les 448 mailles en répétant 64 fois (2 m end, 5 m env). À 3 cm, vous diminuez 1 m env dans toutes les sections 5 m env et continuez ainsi en côtes (2 m end, 4 m env) x 64= 384 m. Vous diminuez ensuite encore 1 m envers (2 m end, 3 m env) x 64 = 320 m. On tricote ensuite 32 fois A.1 (= 10 m au 1er rang). Quand A.1 est terminé, il reste 8 m (cf dernier symbole) soit 8x32=256 m. Bon tricot!

Cornelia 11.07.2019 - 22:01:

Nachdem ich alle Teile auf einer Rundnadel aufgebracht habe, lassen sich die Armteile nicht mehr vernünftig abstricken, weil die Rundungen zu eng sind. Bei mir sind die Lücken ca. 8 cm groß. Dadurch sind die Rundungen für die Nadespitzen zu eng.

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 08:34:

Liebe Cornelia, für die ersten Runden können Sie die Maschen beiden Ärmel mit einem anderen Rundnadel oder immer mit den Nadelset stricken - oder mit Magic loop, nach einigen Runden wird es einfacher. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Helena 26.03.2019 - 15:05:

Als beginner heb ik deze trui gebreid en het is me meteen goed gelukt! Dankzij jullie goede en duidelijke beschrijving! Ik ben heel blij met het resultaat, ik heb ook veel complimenten voor mijn trui gekregen. Bedankt!

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