DROPS Extra / 0-1146

Ólafur by DROPS Design

Men's knitted jumper in DROPS Karisma or DROPS Merino Extra Fine, with raglan and Norwegian pattern. Worked top down. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no u-756
Yarn group B
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Materials:
DROPS KARISMA from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 37, dark grey blue
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour no 01, off white
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour no 70, light blue grey
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 48, wine red

Or use:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
350-400-450-500-550-600 g colour no 20, dark blue
150-150-200-200-200-250 g colour no 01, off white
100-100-100-100-100-150 g colour no 15, light greyish green
50-50-50-50-50-50 g colour no 11, red

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm) SIZE 3 mm - for rib.

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.20 £ /50g
DROPS Karisma uni colour DROPS Karisma uni colour 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Karisma mix DROPS Karisma mix 2.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.60£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
See diagrams A.1 to A.3. The diagrams are worked in stocking st.

INCREASE TIP:
Increase with YO, knit YO twisted over on next round to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st before marker as follows: Work until 2 sts remain before marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st after marker as follows: K 2 tog.
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JUMPER:
Worked in the round on circular needle, top down. Cast on 86-90-94-100-104-108 sts on circular needle size 3 mm with off white. K 1 round. Switch to dark grey blue Karisma / dark blue Merino Extra Fine. Then work in stocking st. Switch to off white and circular needle size 4 mm when piece measures 6 cm. Work 1 round in stocking st.

On next round, inc 26-30-34-34-44-52 sts evenly = 112-120-128-134-148-160 sts. On next round work as follows from mid back: K 16-18-18-19-24-27, insert 1st marker, K 2, insert 2nd marker, K 16-16-20-21-19-19, insert 3rd marker, K 2 (= sleeve), insert 4th marker, K 39-43-43-45-53-59, insert 5th marker (= front piece), K 2, insert 6th marker, K 16-16-20-21-19-19, insert 7th marker, K 2 (= sleeve), insert 8th marker, K 17-19-19-20-25-28.

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Work an elevation at the back of neck from mid back AT THE SAME TIME inc for raglan.
ELEVATION:
K 8 sts past marker, turn, tighten yarn and P 16 sts back, turn, tighten yarn and K 24 sts, turn, continue to work 8 sts more in stocking st for every turn until a total of 80 sts have been worked after last turn.
RAGLAN:
Inc for raglan on every row from RS as follows: Inc 1 st before 1st and 8th marker and 1 st after 2nd and 7th marker. There are 6-6-6-6-4-4 sts inc in total on back piece and 3-3-3-2-2-2 sts on each sleeve.
When elevation has been worked, there are 124-132-140-144-156-168 sts on needle. Fasten off. Now work in the round from 1st marker.

Work next round as follows: (1st marker), K 2 (2nd marker), K 19-19-23-23-21-21, (3rd marker), K 2, (= sleeve), (4th marker), K 39-43-43-45-53-59 (= front piece), (5th marker), K 2, (6th marker), K 19-19-23-23-21-21, (7th marker), K 2, (8th marker) (= sleeve), K 39-43-43-45-53-59 (= back piece).

On next round beg inc for raglan. NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION

RAGLAN BODY:
Inc before 1st and 5th marker and after 4th and 8th marker as follows - READ INCREASE TIP: Inc every round 4-8-12-10-8-10 times, then every other round 13-11-11-12-14-13 times. There are 73-81-89-89-97-105 sts on front and back piece.

RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc after 2nd and 6th marker and before 3rd and 7th marker as follows: Inc every other round 15-15-17-17-18-18 times in total = 53-53-61-61-61-61 sts on each sleeve.

After inc for raglan, there are 252-268-300-300-316-332 sts in total. Then work pattern as follows: A.2 (= 2 sts), A.1 (= 8 sts) 6-6-7-7-7-7 times in total, work first st in A.1 (to make it the same in both sides), A.2, A.1 9-10-11-11-12-13 times in total, work first st in A.1, A.2, A.1 6-6-7-7-7-7 times in total, work first st in A.1, A.2, A.1 9-10-11-11-12-13 times in total, work first st in A.1. Continue with pattern like this AT THE SAME TIME continue to inc for raglan as follows:

RAGLAN:
NOTE: Inc differently on body and sleeves. Work the inc sts in the pattern A.1.
RAGLAN BODY:
Inc before 1st and 5th marker and after 4th and 8th marker as follows:
Inc every other round 8-6-11-14-15-18 times, then every 4th round 1-3-0-0-0-0 times. There are 91-99-111-117-127-141 sts on front and back piece.
RAGLAN SLEEVE:
Inc after 2nd and 6th marker and before 3rd and 7th marker as follows:
Inc every other round 0-0-0-0-1-2 times, every 4th round 5-6-1-1-7-8 times and every 6th round 0-0-3-4-0-0 times. There are 63-65-69-71-77-81 sts for each sleeve.

When all inc are done there are 308-328-360-376-408-444 sts on needle. Continue with pattern as before. Work next round as follows: Slip the first 63-65-69-71-77-81 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work 91-99-111-117-127-141 sts, slip the next 63-65-69-71-77-81 sts on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts under sleeve (insert a marker in the middle of the new sts), work 91-99-111-117-127-141 sts = 198-214-238-254-274-302 sts. Work the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts under each sleeve in pattern, i.e. pattern is reversed at the markers in the side. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!

BODY:
Continue with A.1 until it has been worked 1 time vertically, then continue piece with dark grey blue Karisma / dark blue Merino Extra Fine. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of markers in the side - READ DECREASE TIP (= 4 sts dec). Repeat dec every 14-30-10-14-10-14 cm 2-1-3-2-3-2 more times = 186-206-222-242-258-290 sts. When piece measures 39-40-41-41-41-41 cm (approx. 7 cm remain in total on body), K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME dec 0-2-0-2-0-2 sts evenly = 186-204-222-240-258-288 sts. Then work A.3 (= 6 sts) 31-34-37-40-43-48 times in total in width. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with dark grey blue / dark blue Merino Extra Fine. On next round, inc 9-6-3-6-9-6 sts evenly = 177-198-219-234-249-282 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Work rib = K 1/P 2. When rib measures 4 cm, K 1 round. Cast off.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Slip the 63-65-69-71-77-81 sts from stitch holder back on double pointed needles size 4 mm. Cast on 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts under sleeve, insert 1 marker in the middle of the new sts = 71-73-77-81-87-91 sts. NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE! Continue with A.1 over all sts. Work the 8-8-8-10-10-10 new sts and sts from A.2 in pattern A.1, i.e. pattern is reversed at the marker. When A.1 has been work to A.z, skip A.z on sleeve and continue on first row after A.z. When piece measures 4 cm, dec 1 st on each side of marker. Repeat dec every 5½-5½-4½-4-3-2½ cm 7-7-8-9-11-12 more times = 55-57-59-61-63-65 sts. When piece measures 47-47-46-45-44-42 cm, dec 1-3-5-1-3-5 sts evenly = 54-54-54-60-60-60 sts. Approx. 7 cm remain until total length of sleeve. Work A.3 9-9-9-10-10-10 times in total in width. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue with dark grey blue Karisma / dark blue Merino Extra Fine. K 1 round. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm and work rib = K 1/P 2. Cast off when piece measures 54-54-53-52-51-49 cm (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders). Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the openings under the sleeves. Fold neckband double to wrong side and stitch in place loosely.

Diagram

= off white
= dark grey blue Karisma / dark blue Merino Extra Fine
= wine red Karisma / red Merino Extra Fine
= light blue grey Karisma / light greyish green Merino Extra Fine


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-1146) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (73)

Eli 23.01.2020 - 00:42:

Under RAGLAN kommer det frem at man skal øke 1 m ETTER merke nr 7 og 1 m FØR merke nr 8. Er det feil her noe sted? Følger man dette vil man ende opp med 4 masker totalt mellom merke 7 og 8 på raglan i stedet for 2 masker som man ender opp med om man følger merke 1 og 2... (man har 2 masker mellom merke 1 og 2 og 7 og 8 og da blir oppskriften feil virker det som) Har gått gjennom denne delen med flere og alle konkluderer med at det er feil. Er det også feil i forhold til raglan erme da?

Laurie 11.01.2020 - 21:55:

Bonjour, les augmentations du raglan devant et dos et du raglan manches doivent-elles être faites en même temps ? Ou bien d’abord faire les augmentations devant et dos puis ensuite celles des manches ?

DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 09:27:

Bonjour Laurie, les augmentations du raglan manches et dos/devant se font en même temps, mais pas au même rythme, c'est-à-dire qu'en fonction de la taille, vous augmenterez 8 mailles par tour (= quand on augmente tous les 2 tours pour les manches et pour le dos/le devant) ou seulement 4 mailles (= quand on augmente pour le dos/le devant tous les tours). Bon tricot!

Annarosa 10.01.2020 - 21:04:

Vorrei lavorare questo modello con una lana più sottile. Si può fare?

DROPS Design 11.01.2020 kl. 15:39:

Buongiorno Annarosa, per un aiuto più personalizzato può rivolgersi al suo rivenditore DROPS di fiducia. Buon lavoro!

Jean Swanback 11.12.2019 - 19:07:

Back elevation: If you K 8 st, turn, P 16 st, turn, K 24 st, how is it possible to do 8 st at every turn?? Also, 8 + 16 +24 =48 st worked. How do you reach 80?? Do you only do 8 st on every turn 4 times to make 48 + 32???

DROPS Design 12.12.2019 kl. 09:16:

Dear Mrs Swanback, elevation is worked back and forth from mid back, you start working 8 stitches, then turn and work always 8 more stitches = on 2nd row P16 from WS, on 3rd row K 24 from RS, on 4th row P32 from WS, on 5th row, K40 from RS and so on until you have worked 80 sts. At the same time, increase for raglan as stated for the size. Happy knitting!

Jean Swanback 10.12.2019 - 21:01:

Under RAGLAN: please correct: before 1st & 7th marker...after 2nd & 8th marker. Under RAGLAN SLEEVE: before 2nd & 6th marker...after 3rd & 7th marker. I don't understand how you get 61 st.for each sleeve. Please explain. Also...why RAGLAN BODY TWICE & RAGLAN SLEEVE TWICE???

DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 08:21:

Dear Mrs Swanback, you increase on a different rythmus on front/back pieces and on sleeves, ie depending on your size you will increase for body: 4-12 times on every round + 11-14 times on every other round, and, at the same time, increase for sleeves 15-18 times every other round. This means you will work sometimes 8 increases (= body + sleeves) or only 4 increases (only body when you inc on every round). Happy knitting!

Iza 07.11.2019 - 08:42:

Dzień dobry, pytania dotyczą reglanu na przodzie i tyle: oczka przy dodawaniu w każdym rzędzie układają inaczej niż przy dodawaniu w co drugim i nie mam pojęcia co robię źle. Jak powinnam to przerabiać?

DROPS Design 08.11.2019 kl. 08:11:

Witaj ponownie Izo! Chodzi ci o to, że dodawane oczka na przodzie i tyle wyglądają inaczej niż te dodawane na rękawach? Tak będzie przez pierwszych 10 okrążeń, gdyż są dodawane w innym rytmie, od 11 okrążenia będzie to wyglądać już tak samo. Pozdrawiamy!

Iza 07.11.2019 - 08:40:

Dzień dobry, pytania dotyczą reglanu na przodzie i tyle: 1. nie jestem pewna jak mam dodawać oczka (XL), jak rozumieć zapis 10 x 1o. w każdym i 12 x 1o. w co drugim:  a/ czy w rzędach od 1 do 10 dodawać w każdym i później w rzędach od 11 dodawać co drugim? b/ czy w rzędzie 1, 3, 5, 7... dodawać po dwa oczka, a w 2, 4, 6 po jednym oczku? 

DROPS Design 08.11.2019 kl. 08:08:

Witaj Izo, ważne jest, że dodajesz oczka na tyle/przodzie i na rękawach w innym rytmie do 10 okrążenia włącznie. A w największym skrócie oznacza to, że w okrążeniach 2, 4, 6, 8 i 10 na okrążenie dodasz razem tylko 4 oczka (na tyle i przodzie, nie dodajesz oczek na rękawach). W pozostałych okrążeniach nieparzystych tj. 1, 3, 5, 7,…, 33 w każdym okrążeniu będzie dodanych 8 oczek, tj. zarówno na tyle i przodzie jak i na rękawach. Policzyłam ile powinno być oczek po tym etapie i jest 300 jak we wzorze: 144 o. początkowe + dodawanie oczek tj. (5x4 + 17x8)>156. 144+156=300. Powodzenia!

Gerd 11.10.2019 - 19:23:

Er det normale størrelser på oppskriften i forhold til herrestørrelsene S, M osv.? Har kjøpt garn herre str. M, som jeg alltid tidligere har brukt i ulike oppskrifter, men ser nå at det virker som størrelsene er litt anderledes her. At feks str M her tilsvarer str S i andre oppskrifter, og at jeg egentlig skulle ha valgt str L her istedenfor M? Har nettopp strikket en genser i Sandnesgarn str M der overvidde = 108, og hel lengde = 70. Mens her er overvidde 102 og hel lengde 66 for M

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 11:03:

Hei Gerd. For noen kan f.eks størrelse M i denne oppskriften være helt perfekt , men andre syns det er en stor M eller en for liten M. Noen plagg skal også være stramme/ sitte tight på, mens andre er mer romslig. Denne modellen ser ut på bildet at den skal være litt tight. Derfor er det veldig viktig å sjekke de målene som er oppgitt i målskissen for å finne ut hvilken størrelse man skal strikke. God Fornøyelse!

Natalie 11.10.2019 - 13:39:

Un grand merci à vous pour votre réponse rapide et claire ! Bonne journée !

Natalie 11.10.2019 - 11:17:

Bonjour Drops , Je tricote le pull Olafur en taille S . Après la ré- hausse, j'ai donc 39 m pour le dos et le devant et 19 m pour les manches . En tricotant le raglan, j'obtient bien 73m pour le dos et le devant mais 15 fois 2 augmentations tous les deux tours pour mes manches me donnent 49 m pour chaque manche au lieu des 53 indiquées sur le modèle . Merci de m'éclairer sur ce point .

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 12:46:

Bonjour Natalie, tout à fait, mais avec les 2 m du raglan de chaque côté de chaque manche, vous avez 49 + 2 +2= 53 m soit 53 m x 2 pour les manches et 73 m x 2 pour le dos/le devant = 252 m. Bon tricot!

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