DROPS Merino Extra Fine
100% Wool
from 3.50 £ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 45.50£.

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Winter Waves

Set consists of: Knitted DROPS hat, poncho and mittens with lace pattern and rib in ”Merino Extra Fine”.

DROPS Extra 0-1145
DROPS design: Pattern no me-083
Yarn group B
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HAT:
Size: One-size
Head circumference: 54/56 cm
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100 g colour no 22, light purple

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – for rib.

PONCHO:
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/ XXXL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
450-450-500 g colour no 22, light purple

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm) SIZE 4 mm - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3.5 mm – for rib.

MITTENS:
Size: S/M - M/L - L/XL
Materials:
DROPS MERINO EXTRA FINE from Garnstudio
100 g for all sizes in colour no 22, light purple.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3.5 mm - or size needed to get 22 sts x 30 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 3 mm – for rib

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

GARTER ST (back and forth):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.6.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec on each side of st with marker as follows:
Dec as follows before st with marker: K 2 tog.
Dec as follows after st with marker: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
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HAT:
Worked in the round on circular needle, switch to double pointed needles when needed.

Cast on 105 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib = K 1/P 2 for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm and work 1 round in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 9 sts evenly = 96 sts. Then work pattern A.1 (= 12 sts) 8 times in width. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked 2 times vertically, work A.2 (= 12 sts on first round) over every repetition of A.1. When entire A.2 has been worked vertically, 24 sts remain. K 1 round all sts 2 and 2 tog = 12 sts. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. The hat measures approx. 25 cm vertically.
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PONCHO:
Work in the round, top down to vent, then work piece back and forth in 2 parts. Rounds start mid back.

Cast on 168-195-210 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib = K 1/P 2 for 3 cm. Switch to circular needle size 4 mm. Work 1 round in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME dec 12-15-18 sts evenly = 156-180-192 sts. Now work pattern A.1 (= 12 sts) over all sts = 13-15-16 repetitions in width. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When A.1 has been worked 2 times vertically, continue with A.3 1 time vertically = 234-270-288 sts. Now work A.4 (= 18 sts) over every repetition of A.3. When A.4 has been worked vertically, there are 260-300-320 sts on round. Now work A.5 (= 20 sts) over every repetition of A.4. On last round in A.5, inc 18-20-38 sts evenly = 278-320-358 sts. Continue in stocking st until piece measures 45-48-51 cm. Now work as follows: Work in stocking st over the first 65-75-85 sts, continue in GARTER ST - see explanation above, over the next 10 sts (insert a marker in the middle of these 10 sts in garter st), then work in stocking st over the next 129-150-169 sts, garter st over the next 10 sts, (insert a marker in the middle of these 10 sts in garter st), work the remaining 64-75-84 sts. Markers shows sides of poncho. Continue like this until 2 ridges have been work over the 10 sts in each side. Now divide piece for front and back piece by slipping the middle 139-160-179 sts on round (i.e. Sts between the 2 markers) on a stitch holder (= front piece). There are now 139-160-179 sts on needle (= back piece).

BACK PIECE:
Now work back and forth in stocking st with 5 sts in garter st in each side until piece measures 54-57-60 cm from cast-on edge. On next row from RS work as follows: 5 sts in garter st, stocking st until 5 sts remain, AT THE SAME TIME inc 7-7-6 sts evenly, 5 sts in garter st = 146-167-185 sts. Switch to circular needle size 3.5 mm and work rib as follows: 5 st in garter st, * K 1, P 2 *, repeat from *-* until 6 sts remain, K 1, 5 st in garter st. When rib measures 4 cm, cast off with K over K and P over P.

FRONT PIECE:
Slip sts from stitch holder back on circular needle size 4 mm = 139-160-179 sts. Work as on back piece.
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RIGHT MITTEN:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 39-42-45 sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm with Merino Extra Fine. Work rib = K 1/P 2 for 6 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 3.5 mm and work 1 round in stocking st while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 38-42-46. Now work pattern as follows: 1-2-3 sts in stocking st, A.6 (= 16 sts), 2-3-4 sts in stocking st (= on top of hand), 2 sts in stocking st, AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker in the last of these 2 sts (= thumb st), stocking st over the remaining 17-19-21 sts. Continue pattern like this. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION When piece measures 8 cm in total, beg inc for thumb by making 1 YO on each side of thumb st, on next round work the YOs twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc for thumb every other round 5-6-7 more times (inc on each side of all thumb sts, i.e. there are 2 sts more between YOs for every inc) = 13-15-17 thumb sts and 50-56-62 sts in total. When piece measures 12-13-14 cm in total, slip the 13-15-17 thumb sts on 1 stitch holder and cast on 1 new st over sts on stitch holder = 38-42-46 sts on needle. Continue until A.6 have been worked 2 times vertically in total. Then continue in stocking st until finished measurements. When piece measures 22-23-24 cm in total, insert 1 marker in the 19th-21st-23rd st and 38th-42nd-46th st. On next round dec 1 st on each side of every st with marker - SEE DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every round 7-8-9 more times = 6 sts remain. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten. Mitten measures approx. 25-26-27 cm.

THUMB:
Slip the sts over thumb gusset on the needles and knit in addition up 3 sts along the edge behind the thumb sts = 16-18-20 sts. Work stocking st in the round until thumb measures approx. 6 cm. On next round K all sts tog 2 by 2. Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

LEFT MITTEN:
Work as right mitten but reversed. I.e. work pattern as follows: Work 2-3-4 sts in stocking st, A.6, 1-2-3 sts in stocking st (= on top of mitten), stocking st over the remaining 19-21-23 sts, insert a marker in the next to last st on round (= thumb st).

Diagram

	= K
	= 1 YO between 2 sts, K YOs on next round to make holes.
	= 1 YO between 2 sts, K YO twisted on next round (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead of front loop) to avoid holes.
	= slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso
	= K 2 tog
	= slip first st loosely on to right needle, slip next st on cable needle in front of piece, slip the outermost st on right needle back on left needle and K 2 tog, pass the outermost st on right needle back on left needle, pass st on cable needle over the outermost st on left needle so that it is not twisted and slip this st over on to right needle. To see video how to do this decrease, go to: Decrease: 1 sts – DROPS Extra 0-1145
	= increase round - see explanation in pattern

© 1982-2025 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
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Comments / Questions (10)

Jan wrote:

I have just finished this pattern in your Alpaca Puma wool. I am disappointed in the way the neckline is. It comes over my shoulders. It wasn’t noticeable until I’d finished. I checked tension and used correct size needles. so that’s not it. Is there anything I can do now to the neck to narrow it by adding extra to it. Any help would be appreciated. Love the wool x

12.04.2024 - 16:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Jan, Puna and alpaca yarns in general are much softer than merino yarns, like Merino Extra Fine, the yarn used and recommended in this pattern. Therefore, it will retain the shaping much worse than the Merino Extra Fine tighter thread, so it's not recommended to use for this pattern. That's why the neck looks looser than the one in the photo. You could add a thin elastic band around the neck to help it maintain its shaping. Happy knitting!

14.04.2024 - 22:33

Gabriela Huitrón Luja wrote:

En Mexico donde puedo comprar estas lanas MARCA DEOPS

01.09.2019 - 17:37

Hola Gabriela. Puedes consultar las tiendas que venden para Mexico aquí: https://www.garnstudio.com/findastore.php?s=w&cid=23. De momento no hay tiendas físicas en México.

17.10.2019 - 19:20

Caussieu wrote:

Bonjour , dans le modèle me-083 , je ne comprends pas l'explication de la double diminution , les 2 dernières lignes, comment passer la maille auxiliaire par dessus la m de l'aiguille gauche ... merci de me dépanner ...

29.01.2019 - 08:25

Bonjour Mme Caussieu, cette vidéo montre comment réaliser cette double diminution. Bon tricot!

29.01.2019 - 09:25

Odile wrote:

Autre chose : lorsque je fais des augmentations , j ai toujours un petit trou , y a t il un moyen d eviter ça ? Merci

04.11.2018 - 13:25

Bonjour Odile, vous pouvez utiliser différentes techniques pour augmenter: avec le fil du rang précédent ou avec une augmentation intercalaire. Bon tricot!

05.11.2018 - 09:37

Bonjour , Je debute et je ne comprends pas comment on met des mailles en arrêt pour partager le devant et le dos.j ai mis les mailles du fond sur un fil d aiguille circulaire , mais je ne sais pas comment retirer le 1 fil qui comprend aussi le reste des mailles Du coup je suis coincee ,pouvez vous m'aider ?

02.11.2018 - 21:02

Bonjour Odile, Cette vidéo montre comment glisser des mailles sur un fil - dans ce cas, ne glissez que le nombre de mailles indiqué sur le fil, gardez les autres sur votre aiguille et terminez cette partie. Reprenez ensuite les mailles en attente ainsi et tricotez la 2ème partie. Bon tricot!

05.11.2018 - 08:26

Anna Paola Majer wrote:

Buonasera, non ho capito bene come fare le diminuzioni nel berretto. Ho ripetuto per due volte lo schema A.1e inizio ora lo schema A.2 (= 12 m sul 1° giro) . E' implicito che debba fare le diminuzioni seguendo il disegno, fino a ridurre i numero delle maglie a 24? Grazie!

01.11.2018 - 16:36

Buongiorno Anna Paola. Sì è corretto. Quando avrà completato il diagramma A.2, sui ferri ci saranno 24 maglie. Buon lavoro!

01.11.2018 - 16:47

Giada wrote:

Buinasera, non riesco a capire come dividere il dietro è il davanti. Finito il giro a costa legaccio ho (avendo fatto la taglia L/XL) 75 m e 5 a legaccio, poi le 160 da dividere e via di seguito. Ho letto anche la risposta data a Gabriella ma non capisco cosa si intenda per “finire il giro “. Ho provato a lavorare le prime 75 + le 5 e poi mettere le 160 in sospeso, ma per continuare “spezzando “ i fianchi devo tagliare il filo e riprendere? Grazie in anticipo per la risposta

07.12.2017 - 23:32

Buongiorno Giada. Deve lavorare le prime 75 m a maglia rasata e le successive 5 m a legaccio, e qui ha un segnapunti; poi lavora le altre 5 m a legaccio , le 150 m successive a maglia rasata e le 5 m successive a legaccio (quindi fino al secondo segnapunti) e le trasferisce su un ferro ausiliario (queste m sono il davanti ), e finisce con le altre 5 m a legaccio e le rimanenti 75 m a maglia rasata. Le m che sono sui ferri sono quelle del dietro e prosegue su queste avanti e indietro. Non è necessario tagliare il filo. Buon lavoro!

08.12.2017 - 14:48

Gabriella wrote:

Grazie per la precedente risposta. nuova domanda : dividendo il lavoro per lavorare separatamente il davanti ed il dietro, dopo aver passato su un ferro ausiliare le 139 maglie del davanti ( 5 legaccio, 129 rasata, 5 legaccio) sul ferro mi trovo per il dietro con 65 m.rasata, 5 legaccio, 5 legaccio e 64 rasata. Non mi è chiaro come lavorare il dietro. devo forse tornare indietro con le 5 maglie a legaccio e le 65 a maglia rasata? in questo modo però queste avrebbero un giro in più. Grazie

18.11.2015 - 07:52

Buongiorno Gabriella, deve finire il giro prima di mettere la maglie in sospeso: le 10 m a m legaccio costituiranno l'apertura sulle braccia, per cui sono ai lati. Il davanti e il dietro sono uguali, 5 m a m legaccio ai lati e 129 m a m rasata in mezzo. Da questo punto in poi lavorerà avanti e indietro su queste m. Ci riscriva se qualcosa non le è chiaro. Buon lavoro!

19.11.2015 - 11:04

Le istruzioni prevedono che ci siano 234 maglie dopo aver ripetuto due volte lo schema A1 e una volta lo schema A3, cioè aumenti di due maglie per ognuno dei 13 A1 e A3, ma dal disegno non trovo dove e come aumentare the instructions state that there are 234 p after repeating twice the pattern A1 and once the scheme A3, with increases of two links for each of the 13 A1 and A3, but thin the scheme design i can not find where and how to increase

15.10.2015 - 22:13

Dear Gabriella, after you have worked A.1 in height, work A.3 in height, A.3 starts with 12 sts and ends with 18 sts, so that you will increase 6 sts in each repeat of A.3. Happy knitting!

16.10.2015 - 09:26

Le istruzioni prevedono che ci siano 234 maglie dopo aver ripetuto due volte lo schema A1 e una volta lo schema A3, cioè aumenti di due maglie per ognuno dei 13 A1 e A3, ma dal disegno non trovo dove e come aumentare the instructions state that there are 234 p. after repeating twice the pattern A1 and once the scheme A3, increases of two p for each of the 13 A1 and A3, but in the scheme design can not find where and how to increase

15.10.2015 - 22:04

Buongiorno Gabriella. Nelle righe 9, 15 e 17 del diagramma A.3 vengono aumentate 2 m facendo delle m gettate. In queste modo, vengono aumentate in tutto 6 m in ogni ripetizione del diagramma. Buon lavoro!

16.10.2015 - 13:18