DROPS / 157 / 7

By The Lake by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper with textured pattern in 1 strand ”Cloud” or 2 strands ”Brushed Alpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no co-002
Yarn group E or C + C
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 84-90-98-110-120-134 cm / 33"-35½"-38½"-43½"-47 1/4"-52 3/4"
Full length: 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''

Materials:
DROPS CLOUD from Garnstudio
550-650-700-750-850-900 g color no 03, pearl gray
Or use:
DROPS BRUSHED ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
325-375-400-450-500-525 g color no 02, light gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEELDE size 8 mm / US 11 (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') - or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Cloud or 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 7 mm / US 10.75 (60 or 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') - for garter st.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.
DROPS Cloud DROPS Cloud
72% Alpaca, 21% Polyamide, 7% Wool
Discontinued
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

DECREASE TIP:
All dec are done from RS.
Dec 1 st at beg of row as follows: 1 edge st in garter st, slip next st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec 1 st at end of row as follows: Work until 3 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog, 1 edge st in garter st.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1-A.4, diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from RS.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row work YO twisted to avoid holes.
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BACK PIECE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 62-66-72-76-86-90 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with 1 strand Cloud or 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11. Work as follows from RS: 1 edge st in garter st, A.2 (= 7 sts) 4-4-5-5-6-6 times in width, stockinette st over the next 4-8-0-4-0-4 sts, A.1 (= 7 sts) 4-4-5-5-6-6 times in width, 1 edge st in garter st. Work edge sts in the sides in garter st until finished measurements. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! Repeat displacement in A.1-A.2 vertically until displacement meet mid back. When piece measures 12 cm / 4¾'', dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side - READ DECREASE TIP. Repeat dec every 7-7½-7-8½-6½-9 cm / 2 3/4"-2 7/8"-2 3/4"-3 1/4"-2½"-3½" 6-6-7-6-8-6 more times = 48-52-56-62-68-76 sts. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 50-51-52-53-54-55 cm / 19¾''-20''-20½''-21''-21¼''-21 5/8'', adjust so that 1 whole or half repetition of A.1-A.2 has been worked, work A.4 over A.2 and A.3 over A.1 until finished measurements. When piece measures 61-63-65-67-69-71 cm / 24''-24¾''-25½''-26 3/8''-27 1/8''-28'', bind off for armholes at the beg of every row in each side as follows: bind off 3 sts 0-0-1-1-1-1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2-3 times, and 1 st 2-3-1-3-3-4 times = 40-42-44-46-48-50 sts. When piece measures 78-81-84-87-90-93 cm / 30 3/4"-32"-33"-34 1/4"-35½"-36½", bind off the middle 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts for neck and finish each shoulder separately. On next row from the neck, bind off 1 st = 12-13-14-14-15-16 sts remain for shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on and work as back piece. When piece measures 72-75-76-79-80-83 cm / 28½"-29½"-30"-31"-31½"-32 3/4", slip the middle 10-10-10-12-12-12 sts on a stitch holder for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then bind off on every row from neck as follows: 2 sts 1 times and 1 st 1 time = 12-13-14-14-15-16 sts remain for shoulder. Loosely bind off all sts when piece measures 80-83-86-89-92-95 cm / 31½''-32¾''-33 7/8''-35''-36¼''-37 3/8''.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 26-26-30-30-34-34 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with 1 strand Cloud or 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 3 ridges. Switch to circular needle size 8 mm / US 11. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side. When piece measures 9 cm / 3½'', inc 1 st - Read INCREASE TIP - inside 1 edge st in each side. Repeat inc every 6½-4½-5-4½-5-4 cm / 2 7/8"-1 3/4"-2"-1 3/4"-2"-1½" 6-8-7-8-7-8 times in total = 38-42-44-46-48-50 sts. When piece measures 47-46-45-44-43-43 cm / 18½"-18"-17 3/4"-17 1/4"-17"-17" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of longer sleeve cap), bind off at beg of every row in each side for sleeve cap as follows: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 3-3-4-5-6-5 times. Then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures approx. 56 cm / 22'', then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side. Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 57 cm / 22½''.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew right shoulder seam.

NECK EDGE:
Worked back and forth on needle. Pick up 50 to 60 sts (includes sts on stitch holder) on circular needle size 7 mm / US 10.75 with 1 strand Cloud or 2 strands Brushed Alpaca Silk. Work 2 ridges. Bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew left shoulder seam and neck edge. Sew in the sleeves in outer loops of edge sts. Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= P from RS, K from WS
= K from RS, P from WS


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 157-7) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Allison 31.03.2019 - 06:18:

I al making size XXXL. The pattern says do A2 6 times then 4 stitches stockinette stitch, and A1 6 times. Eventually the points should meet, but the 4 stockinette stitches are still in the middle. Am I supposed to decrease those at some point while I am following the chart?

DROPS Design 01.04.2019 kl. 13:04:

Dear Allison, you don't have to decrease any stitches in the middle, when repeating the diagrams in height, these 4 sts will then be worked into the pattern creating the tip. Happy knitting!

Lela Zaranec 19.11.2017 - 01:10:

I'm confused about the pattern too. I don't understand how the middle stitches disappear as you work the pattern vertically. Are you supposed to then work part of the diagram into the stockinette stitches on both sides? Also shouldn't the pattern go A1 then A2 so you get the point? I wish there was a picture of the back too.

DROPS Design 20.11.2017 kl. 09:23:

Dear Mrs Zaranec, working A.1 and A.2 as explained will create diagonals with K andn P sts meeting tog mid on piece. Happy knititng!

Vanda 26.01.2016 - 14:20:

Hallo, can this pattern work without any adjustments with 1 strand of Melody instead of 2 strands of Brushed Alpaka Silk? Thanks.

DROPS Design 26.01.2016 kl. 14:24:

Dear Vanda. Yes, that should be no problem, but don't forget to knit a sample anyway to check your gauge.

Lisa 24.12.2015 - 18:26:

Hi, to be a bit more clear about my question, I don't understand how to make the pattern meet, when there are 8 stockinette stitches in the middle? What happens to those 8 stitches as I keep going vertically with the pattern? If I don't decrease those 8 stitches, there will be a break in the middle of the pattern that goes all the way up the whole sweater, unless I'm missing something?

DROPS Design 02.01.2016 kl. 13:39:

Dear Lisa, at the beg on A.2/A.1 you will have 8 stocking sts between both diagrams in the middle, but repeating diagrams vertically, the pattern will meet on mid back = you will get a tip of reverse stocking st in the middle. Happy knitting!

Lisa 24.12.2015 - 04:06:

So am I supposed to figure out when to reverse the stockinette? There are no instructions that I can see that say to repeat the 8 stitches for a certain number of rows and then reverse the stockinette. Should I be following an exact pattern as written or am I supposed to figure it out myself?

DROPS Design 02.01.2016 kl. 13:32:

Dear Lisa, you work both diagrams A.2 and A.1 as explained and repeat displacement vertically until displacement meet at the middle of piece. Happy knitting!

Lisa 20.12.2015 - 22:20:

Hi, I love this sweater but the pattern is not working for me. If I try to get the pattern to work for size "medium" there are 8 stockinette stitches between the pattern that create a thick stripe down the middle of the front and back. I can't figure out how to get the pattern right unless I make size "large" which has "0" stockinette stitches. Please let me know if I'm reading this wrong? I would love to get the pattern to work. Thanks! Lisa

DROPS Design 21.12.2015 kl. 11:21:

Dear Lisa, that's correct, working the diagrams upwards will then create the "tip" in reverse stocking sts (= in P st) as you can see in the photo on the model (size M is here shown). Happy knitting!

Lillan Öhrn 27.10.2014 - 19:12:

Tycker det låter väldigt konstigt i mängd av garn! Det kraftiga garnet i 50 gr. nystan Drops Cloud skall det vara 750gr. av i storlek XL i Drops Brushed Alpaca (tror det är 25g. nystan) skall det bara vara 450 gr. fast man skall sticka med 2 trådar. I mina öron verkar detta inte stämma alls det borde väl vara mycket mer i det garnet eller??? Kanske jag tänker fel... Mvh Lillan

DROPS Design 28.10.2014 kl. 10:27:

Jo Lillan, der er jo mange flere meter på 25gr i det tyndere garn. Se her hvordan man regner garnforbruget ud: I str XL skal du bruge følgende i Cloud: 750g = 15 nøgler x 80m = 1200 m Du deler 1200 med antal meter pr nøgle i Brushed Alpaca Silk 140 og får 8,5 nøgler det ganger du med 2 da du bruger dobbelt tråd = 17,14 nøgler á 25g = 428 gr (som vi da er nødt til af afrunde til 450 gr for at være sikker på at der er nok garn). Held og lykke!

Kari Bonnichsen 27.10.2014 - 12:52:

Er den angivne mængde garn for bruched alpaka korrekt? Ser ulogisk ud at man skal bruge meget mere af det tykkere cloud når man tager i betragtning at man skal bruge 2 tråde af alpaka

DROPS Design 28.10.2014 kl. 09:00:

Hej Kari Jo det stemmer, husk at 50 g Cloud = 80 m og Brushed Alpaca Silk ligger i 25 g nøgler og indeholder 140 m. God fornøjelse!

Konstanze Burger 22.10.2014 - 09:26:

An Ariana v. 20.8.2014: Die angegebene Wollmenge für Brushed Alpaca ist doch nicht 175g sondern 325g bei Größer S = 1820 m LL. Das könnte dann doch hinkommen, oder?

DROPS Design 22.10.2014 kl. 16:12:

Liebe Frau Burger, die Garnmenge wurde inzwischen angepasst, der Einwand von Ariana war richtig und hat zur Korrektur der Garnmenge geführt.

Caterina 01.10.2014 - 09:55:

Salve,volendo realizzare questo maglione facendolo un po' più corto,come posso fare?Diminuendo lo spazio in centimetri tra le diminuzioni otterrei il risultato voluto oppure dovrei modificare altri elementi?

DROPS Design 01.10.2014 kl. 13:37:

Buongiorno Caterina. Le diminuzioni iniziano dopo 12 cm. Se vuole accorciare il maglione p.es di 8 cm, inizi a diminuire dopo 4 cm (12 cm- 8 cm = 4 cm) come indicato nel modello. Se lo vuole accorciare più di 12 cm può ridurre lo spazio tra una diminuzione e l’altra. Buon lavoro!

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