Little Lady Rose by DROPS Design

Crochet baby jacket with raglan and fan edges, worked top down in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size 0-4 years.

DROPS Baby 25-12
DROPS design: Pattern no bs-008-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 42-48-52-56 (62-68) cm / 16½”-19”-20½”-22” (24½”-26¾”)
Full length: 26-30-32-35 (38-42) cm / 10¼”-11¾”-12½”-13¾” (15”-16½”)
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 (200-200) g color no 1306, powder
50-50-50-50 (50-100) g color no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 8 texture rows vertically = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 3-3-3-5 (5-5) pieces

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc row with ch 1, finish row with 1 sc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with ch 3, finish row with 1 dc in ch from beg of previous row.

TEXTURE ROWS:
* 1 row sc (worked from WS), 1 row dc (worked from RS) *, repeat from *-* (1 row sc + 1 row dc = 1 texture row).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc/dc by working 2 sc/dc in same st.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 sc/dc but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next sc/dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 sc/dc dec.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. (A.2 applies to inc on collar).
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JACKET:
The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front.

YOKE:
Ch 83-87-91-91 (91-95) (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with powder. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 82-86-90-90 (90-94) sc on row (includes 5 band sts in each side towards mid front).
Now insert 4 markers in piece for raglan as follows (beg mid front – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting markers): Skip 15-16-17-17 (17-18) sc (= left front piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 14 sc (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 20-22-24-24 (24-26) sc (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 14 sc (= sleeve) and insert last marker in next sc (there are now 15-16-17-17 (17-18) sc on right front piece after last marker).

READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
READ CROCHET INFO and work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 dc in every sc but in every sc with marker work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc = 94-98-102-102 (102-106) dc on row.
Then work TEXTURE ROWS - see explanation above (work back and forth with 1 sc/dc in every st from previous row – but on every row with sc from WS work 2 ch over the 2 ch from previous row in raglan lines. On row with dc work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in both ch-spaces).
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS (i.e. on row with dc) inc for raglan as follows: Work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in every ch-space in every raglan line (= 16 dc inc on row – note: work around both ch-spaces). Repeat inc on every row from RS 3-4-5-6 (7-8) more times (= 4-5-6-7 (8-9) times in total) = 158-178-198-214 (230-250) sts. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
After last inc for raglan work 1 row with sc from WS as before.
Work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 25-28-31-33 (35-38) sc (= left front piece), skip the next 34-38-42-46 (50-54) sc (= sleeve), work 6-6-6-6 (8-8) ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 40-46-52-56 (60-66) sc (= back piece), skip the next 34-38-42-46 (50-54) sc (= sleeve), work 6-6-6-6 (8-8) ch and work 1 dc in each of the last 25-28-31-33 (35-38) sc (= right front piece).
Then finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work 1st row from WS – work 1 sc in every dc from previous row and 1 sc in each of the 6-6-6-6 (8-8) ch under each armhole = 102-114-126-134 (146-158) sc on row. Insert 1 marker 28-31-34-36 (39-42) sts in from each side (= 46-52-58-62 (68-74) sts on back piece).
Continue back and forth with TEXTURE ROWS.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2-2-2-3 (2-3) cm / 3/4”- 3/4”- 3/4”-1” (3/4”-1”), inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc).
Repeat inc approx. every 1-1½-1½-1½ (1½-1½) cm / 3/8”-½”-½”-½” (½”-½”) 10-10-10-10 (13-13) more times (= 11-11-11-11 (14-14) times in total) = 146-158-170-178 (202-214) sts.
When piece measures approx. 15-17-18-20 (22-24) cm / 6”-6 ¾”-7”-8” (8 ¾”-9½”) from armhole – make sure all that inc are done, work 1 row sc from WS AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-2-2-0 (0-0) sc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP = 148-160-172-178 (202-214) sc. Fasten off.
Switch to off white and work 1 row sc from WS with 1 sc in every sc from previous row.
Then work Fan pattern according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): ch 1, 1 sc in first st, * ch 3, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49-53-57-59 (67-71) ch-spaces, turn.
ROW 2 (= WS): ch 3 (= 1 dc), 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in first ch-space, * 1 dc in next ch-space, 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 dc in first sc from beg of previous row = 25-27-29-30 (34-36) dc-groups with 1 dc between every dc-group, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= RS): ch 3 (= 1 dc), 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the mid of first dc-group, * 1 dc in next dc, 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in the mid of next dc-group *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row = 25-27-29-30 (34-36) dc-groups with 1 dc between every dc-group. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 34-38-42-46 (50-54) sts. Insert 1 marker here – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work 1st row from RS with powder as follows: work 3-3-3-3 (4-4) ch, work 1 dc in each stitch and work 3-3-3-3 (4-4) ch. Turn piece, work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 1-1-1-1 (2-2) ch, 1 sc in every dc from previous row and 1 dc in each of the 3-3-3-3 (4-4) ch from beg of previous row = 40-44-48-52 (58-62) sts on row.
Then work TEXTURE ROWS back and forth as before with dc from RS and sc from WS.
AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 2-2-3-3 (3-3) cm / 3/4”-3/4”-1”-1” (1”-1”) from marker, dec 1 st in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP!
Repeat dec every 8-5-3-3 (2½-2½) cm / 3”-2”-1 1/8”-1 1/8” (7/8”-7/8”), 1-2-4-5 (7-8) more times (= 2-3-5-6 (8-9) times in total in each side) = 36-38-38-40 (42-44) sts.
When sleeve measures approx. 13-14-16-19 (23-26) cm / 5”-5½”-6¼”-7½” (9”-10¼”) from marker – finish after 1 row with sc from WS, fasten off.
Switch to off white.
Work 1 row sc from WS AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-2-2-6 (4-2) sc evenly = 40-40-40-46 (46-46) sc.
Then work Fan pattern according to diagram A.1, beg from RS, the same way as on bottom of jacket.
After 1st row there are 13-13-13-15 (15-15) ch-spaces on row and after 2nd row there are 7-7-7-8 (8-8) dc-groups with 1 dc between every dc-group.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seams tog edge to edge in outer loops of edge sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Sew the buttons on to left front piece.
Upper button should be approx. 1 cm / ½’’ from neckline and there should be approx. 5 to 7 cm / 2-2¾’’ between each button.
Button through dc in texture pattern.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
For better fit work a small elevation at the back of neck. Insert 1 marker in st in each corner in neck, i.e. at beg of every raglan line. Work on hook size 3.5 mm/E with powder as follows:
Begin in 11th st from mid front, work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remains before st with marker, work 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, then work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remains before next st with marker, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st.
Continue like this until 10 sts remain before mid front in the other side. Turn piece and work 1 sc in every sc but at every marker work 3 sc tog, i.e. work 1 sc in hdc but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 sc in st with marker but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 sc in next hdc but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook (= 2 sc dec).
Fasten off.

COLLAR:
Work on hook size 3.5 mm/E with powder as follows: Beg in 4th st from mid front and work 1 sc in every sc around the neck until 3 sc remain on row AT THE SAME TIME work 5th and 6th st tog – READ DECREASE TIP = approx. 57-60-64-64 (64-67) sc remain. Make sure that markers at each raglan line moves upwards - remove the markers from the sts they are in and place them between the st they were in and the next st toward the sleeve.
Then work texture rows back and forth as on body with 1 st in every st.
AT THE SAME TIME after 3-3-3-4 (4-4) cm / 1”-1”-1”-1½” (1½”-1½”), inc on the next 2 rows as shown in A.2.
After last inc, collar measures approx. 5-5-5-6 (6-6) cm / 2”-2”-2”-2½” (2½”-2½”). Fasten off.

CROCHET EDGE ALONG MID FRONT:
Work with off white as follows: Begin from WS at the bottom on left front piece and work 1 row sc up along mid front and then over the 3 sts at the top of neck before collar beg - work approx. 2 sc in every dc-row and 1 sc in every sc-row.
Turn piece and work as follows: * ch 3, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row to bottom of band.
Fasten off and repeat along right front piece, beg from WS at the top by neck.

CROCHET EDGE AROUND COLLAR:
Work with off white as follows: Beg from RS where collar beg after the 3 sts at the top of neck and work 1 row sc around the entire collar until where collar ends before the top 3 sts in neck in the other side. Turn piece and work as follows: * ch 3, skip approx. 2 sts, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-*, NOTE: Make sure that no of ch-spaces can be divided by 2 + 1.
Turn piece and work a finishing edge with fans as follows from RS: Work sl sts until mid of first ch-space, 3 ch (= 1 dc), * 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row.
Fasten off.

BOW:
Ch 11 on hook size 3.5 mm/E with off white. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 7 ch = 9 dc on row. Turn piece and work TEXTURE ROWS back and forth until piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4’’ – finish after 1 row with sc. Fasten off.
Sew short sides tog to form a ring and twine some yarn around the mid of bow to tighten it neatly in the middle.
Fasten bow at the top on right front piece.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 23.03.2021
SLEEVE: ... Work 1st row from RS with powder as follows: work 3-3-3-3 (4-4) ch, work 1 dc in each stitch and work 3-3-3-3 (4-4) ch. Turn piece, work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each of the next 1-1-1-1 (2-2) ch, 1 sc in every tr from previous row and 1 dc in each of the 3-3-3-3 (4-4) ch from beg of previous row = 40-44-48-52 (58-62) sts on row. Then work TEXTURE ROWS back and forth as before with dc from RS and sc from WS...

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = 1 sc
symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = marker
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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5) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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6) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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7) What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

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8) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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9) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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10) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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11) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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13) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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14) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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15) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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16) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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17) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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18) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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19) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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20) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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21) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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22) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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23) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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24) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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25) Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (111)

country flag Wendy wrote:

The yarn is discontinued. What would be a reasonable substitute?

17.02.2024 - 13:05

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Wendy, you could use DROPS BabyMerino, DROPS Flora, DROPS Nord or DROPS Alpaca. Happy knitting!

18.02.2024 - 22:24

country flag Katia wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas où je dois commencer pour la ré-hausse de l'encolure dos. J'ai mis les marqueurs dans les raclant mais je ne comprend pas "commencer à la 11e m", je ne commence pas au début de l'encolure? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse Cordialement. Katia

23.03.2023 - 11:17

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Katia, non on ne commence par au bord des devants, mais après: comptez à partir de la 1ère maille du devant droit (sur l'endroit) et commencez dans la 11ème maille à partir du bord. Coupez le fil à la fin des rangs de la ré-hausse et crochetez ensuite le col en commençant dans la 4ème maille à partir du bord. Bon crochet!

23.03.2023 - 12:44

country flag Karoline wrote:

Hei, og takk for tidligere svar! Jeg er helt amatør, og lurer nå på hvor jeg skal øke? Altså, jeg vet at jeg øker ved å hekle to st i samme fm. Det står at jeg skal øke på hver side av merkingen. Vil det si at jeg skal øke på samme sted hver gang, rett ved siden av merket? Eller skal jeg fordele økningen over flere steder for hver gang jeg øker?

13.03.2023 - 20:44

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karoline, Du skal alltid øke på hver side av merkene (rett før og rett etter). God fornøyelse!

20.03.2023 - 07:01

country flag Karoline wrote:

Hvordan blir det 102 masker etter første gang jeg har lagt ut? Det skal jo legges ut 2st+2lm+2st og det er markert med tråd 4 ganger… For meg blir dette 16 økte masker fra start, ikke 12 som det står. Hva gjør jeg galt?

12.02.2023 - 20:17

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Karoline, Du hekler 4 st i hver st med merketråd (3 st økt). Da blir det 12 st økt på raden. God fornøyelse!

13.02.2023 - 07:00

country flag José Engering wrote:

Wanneer in een beschrijving bv staat: Maat: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 maanden (2 - 3/4) jaar\ Maat in cm: 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104) is dan: 0/1-1/3 maat 48/52 zoals we die in Nederland in de winkel kopen? En is dan: Haak 83-87-91-91 (91-95) 83/87 voor bovenstaande voorbeeld? Ik denk het wel maar wil het zeker weten vóór ik begin . Zijn er meer haakpatronen voor babyvestjes? ik kan er maar een paar vinden, Met hartelijke dank voor de genomen moeite, José

03.01.2023 - 14:07

DROPS Design answered:

Dag José,

In principe zou dit zo moeten zijn, dus dat de maten kloppen volgens de confectiematen. Je kunt ook altijd naar de maattekening kijken en deze vergelijken met een kledingstuk dat goed zit.

04.01.2023 - 21:07

country flag Anette wrote:

Jag har virkat 7 st raglanökningar 2 st 2 lm 2 st i varje markering . Virkar storlek 86, men har inte 214 m. Det fattas 16 m och det borde vara 1 ökning till. Vad har jag missat? Sen undrarjag på…. Hoppa över ärmmaskorna, lägg upp 6 lm….hur gör jag?

09.09.2022 - 10:59

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Anette. Når du har satt 4 merker i arbeidet har du 17+1+14+1+24+1+14+1+17 masker = 90. Så hekler du 1 stav i hver fm, men i hver fm med merketråd i hekles det 2 st + 2 lm + 2 st = 102 st på raden (økt med 12 masker). Nå starter raglanøkningene, totalt 7 ganger. 16 økte masker pr økeomgang = 7x16=112 økte masker + de 102 du hadde i starten = 112+102= 214 masker. Angående hopp over armmaskene, Hekle slik det står i oppskriften, deretter hekles bol og ermene videre hver for seg. Når bolen er ferdig heklet, vil du se at du har 2 hull til ermene, som nå skal hekles hver for seg. mvh DROPS Design

12.09.2022 - 08:58

country flag Amani Elhusseini wrote:

Ok thank you. In regards to the sleeve where do we start? Do we only work in the stitches from yoke or do we work into the 6 chains under the arm (that we made fot the body) too?

14.03.2022 - 00:31

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Elhusseini, start sleeve crocheting 3 chains, then work the stitches on sleeve and finish row with 5 chains, turn and crochet next row as explained. At the end of work you will sew together the opening under sleeves. Happy crocheting!

14.03.2022 - 13:50

country flag Amani Elhusseini wrote:

Thank you for this lovely pattern however Can you please upload a video or photos on how to do the sleeve as it is very confusing

13.03.2022 - 02:03

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Amani, we don't make personalized videos, but you can find all of our related videos, which may help you make this pattern below the pattern. Happy crochetting!

13.03.2022 - 22:37

country flag Helen wrote:

Hej! Finns det inget mönster till mössan? Mvh Helen

29.01.2022 - 02:25

DROPS Design answered:

Hei helen. Jo, oppskrift til luen finner du under DROPS Baby 25-14. Eller klikk på bildet av luen under det store bildet (og teksten: Du vil kanskje også like...) mvh DROPS Design

31.01.2022 - 13:53

country flag Line wrote:

Jeg er gået igang med denne lækre jakke, men er gået i stå allerede i bærestykket. Jeg laver den i str 12-18 måneder. Jeg har slået 92 lm op, hæklet 1 fm i 2.lm fra nålen og hæklet 1 fm i resten af lm. Jeg er nu nået til det stykke, hvor der står “(inkl 5 kant-m i hver side mod midt foran)” men det forstår jeg simpelthen ikke? Jeg har ikke før hæklet kant-m, så er helt på bar bund, hvad skal der gøres og hvor henne? Håber i kan hjælpe.

06.11.2021 - 18:26

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Line, det står bare at de yderste 5 masker (som du har hæklet) i hver side = kantmasker. :)

09.11.2021 - 15:38

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