DROPS Baby / 25 / 12

Little Lady Rose by DROPS Design

Crochet baby jacket with raglan and fan edges, worked top down in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size 0-4 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-008-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 48/52 - 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)
Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 (200-200) g colour no 1306, powder
50-50-50-50 (50-100) g colour no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 3.5 mm – or size needed to get 22 tr x 8 texture rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 3-3-3-5 (5-5) pieces

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.10 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with 1 ch, finish row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Replace first tr at beg of every tr row with 3 ch, finish row with 1 tr in ch from beg of previous row.

TEXTURE ROWS:
* 1 row dc (worked from WS), 1 row tr (worked from RS) *, repeat from *-* (1 row dc + 1 row tr = 1 texture row).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 dc/tr by working 2 dc/tr in same st.

DECREASE TIP:
Work 1 dc/tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), then work next dc/tr but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook = 1 dc/tr dec.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1. (A.2 applies to inc on collar).
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JACKET:
The piece is worked top down. Worked back and forth from mid front.

YOKE:
Work 83-87-91-91 (91-95) ch (incl 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm with powder. Work 1 dc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 dc in every ch the entire row = 82-86-90-90 (90-94) dc on row (incl 5 band sts in each side towards mid front).
Now insert 4 markers in piece for raglan as follows (beg mid front – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting markers): Skip 15-16-17-17 (17-18) dc (= left front piece), insert 1 marker in next dc, skip 14 dc (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next dc, skip 20-22-24-24 (24-26) dc (= back piece), insert 1 marker in next dc, skip 14 dc (= sleeve) and insert last marker in next dc (there are now 15-16-17-17 (17-18) dc on right front piece after last marker).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
READ CROCHET INFO and work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 tr in every dc but in every dc with marker work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr = 94-98-102-102 (102-106) tr on row.
Then work TEXTURE ROWS - see explanation above (work back and forth with 1 dc/tr in every st from previous row – but on every row with dc from WS work 2 ch over the 2 ch from previous row in raglan lines. On row with tr work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr in both ch-spaces).
AT THE SAME TIME on first row from RS (i.e. on row with tr) inc for raglan as follows: Work 2 tr + 2 ch + 2 tr in every ch-space in every raglan line (= 16 tr inc on row – note: work around both ch-spaces). Repeat inc on every row from RS 3-4-5-6 (7-8) more times (= 4-5-6-7 (8-9) times in total) = 158-178-198-214 (230-250) sts. REMEMBER THE CROCHET TENSION!
After last inc for raglan work 1 row with dc from WS as before.
Work next row as follows from RS: Work 1 tr in each of the first 25-28-31-33 (35-38) tr (= left front piece), skip the next 34-38-42-46 (50-54) dc (= sleeve), work 6-6-6-6 (8-8) ch, work 1 tr in each of the next 40-46-52-56 (60-66) dc (= back piece), skip the next 34-38-42-46 (50-54) dc (= sleeve), work 6-6-6-6 (8-8) ch and work 1 tr in each of the last 25-28-31-33 (35-38) dc (= right front piece).
Then finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work 1st row from WS – work 1 dc in every tr from previous row and 1 dc in each of the 6-6-6-6 (8-8) ch under each armhole = 102-114-126-134 (146-158) dc on row. Insert 1 marker 28-31-34-36 (39-42) sts in from each side (= 46-52-58-62 (68-74) sts on back piece). Continue back and forth with TEXTURE ROWS.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2-2-2-3 (2-3) cm, inc 1 st on each side of both markers – READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc approx. every 1-1½-1½-1½ (1½-1½) cm 10-10-10-10 (13-13) more times (= 11-11-11-11 (14-14) times in total) = 146-158-170-178 (202-214) sts. When piece measures approx. 15-17-18-20 (22-24) cm from armhole – adjust so that inc are done, work 1 row dc from WS AT THE SAME TIME inc 2-2-2-0 (0-0) dc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP = 148-160-172-178 (202-214) dc. Fasten off.
Switch to off white and work 1 row dc from WS with 1 dc in every dc from previous row. Then work Fan pattern according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): 1 ch, 1 dc in first st, * 3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49-53-57-59 (67-71) ch-spaces, turn.
ROW 2 (= WS): Work 3 ch (= 1 tr), 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in first ch-space, * 1 tr in next ch-space, 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 tr in first dc from beg of previous row = 25-27-29-30 (34-36) tr-groups with 1 tr between every tr-group, turn piece.
ROW 3 (= RS): Work 3 ch (= 1 tr), 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in ch-space in the mid of first tr-group, * 1 tr in next tr, 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in ch-space in the mid of next tr-group *, repeat from *-* the entire row and finish with 1 tr in 3rd ch from beg of previous row = 25-27-29-30 (34-36) tr-groups with 1 tr between every tr-group. Fasten off.

SLEEVE:
= 34-38-42-46 (50-54) sts. Insert 1 marker here – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE.
Work 1st row from WS with powder as follows: Work 3-3-3-3 (4-4) ch, work 1 dc in every st and work 5-5-5-5 (6-6) ch. Turn piece, work 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, work 1 tr in each of the next 1-1-1-1 (2-2) ch, 1 tr in every st from previous row and 1 tr in each of the 3-3-3-3 (4-4) ch from beg of previous row = 40-44-48-52 (58-62) sts on row.
Then work TEXTURE ROWS back and forth as before with dc from WS and tr from RS. AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 2-2-3-3(3-3) cm from marker, dec 1 st in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 8-5-3-3 (2½-2½) cm 1-2-4-5 (7-8) more times (= 2-3-5-6 (8-9) times in total in each side) = 36-38-38-40 (42-44) sts. When sleeve measures approx. 13-14-16-19 (23-26) cm from marker – finish after 1 row with dc from WS, fasten off.
Switch to off white. Work 1 row dc from WS AT THE SAME TIME inc 4-2-2-6 (4-2) dc evenly = 40-40-40-46 (46-46) dc.
Then work Fan pattern according to diagram A.1, beg from RS, the same way as on bottom of jacket. After 1st row there are 13-13-13-15 (15-15) ch-spaces on row and after 2nd row there are 7-7-7-8 (8-8) tr-groups with 1 tr between every tr-group.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew underarm seams tog edge to edge in front loop of outermost sts. Sew the openings under the sleeves.
Sew the buttons on to left front piece. Upper button should be approx. 1 cm from neckline and there should be approx. 5 to 7 cm between each button. Button through tr in texture pattern.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
For better fit work a small elevation at the back of neck. Insert 1 marker in st in each corner in neck, i.e. at beg of every raglan line. Work on hook size 3.5 mm with powder as follows: Beg in 11th st from mid front, work 1 dc in every st until 1 st remains before st with marker, work 1 htr in next st, 1 tr in st with marker and 1 htr in next st, then work 1 dc in every st until 1 st remains before next st with marker, 1 htr in next st, 1 tr in st with marker and 1 htr in next st. Continue like this until 10 sts remain before mid front in the other side. Turn piece and work 1 dc in every dc but at every marker work 3 dc tog, i.e. work 1 dc in htr but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 dc in st with marker but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 dc in next htr but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook (= 2 dc dec). Fasten off.

COLLAR:
Work on hook size 3.5 mm with powder as follows: Beg in 4th st from mid front and work 1 dc in every dc around the neck until 3 dc remain on row AT THE SAME TIME work 5th and 6th st tog – READ DECREASE TIP = approx. 57-60-64-64 (64-67) dc remain. Make sure that markers at each raglan line moves upwards - remove the markers from the sts they are in and place them between the st they were in and the next st toward the sleeve.Then work texture rows back and forth as on body with 1 st in every st. AT THE SAME TIME after 3-3-3-4 (4-4) cm, inc on the next 2 rows as shown in A.2. After last inc, collar measures approx. 5-5-5-6 (6-6) cm. Fasten off.

CROCHET EDGE ALONG MID FRONT:
Work with off white as follows: Beg from WS at the bottom on left front piece and work 1 row dc up along mid front and then over the 3 sts at the top of neck before collar beg - work approx. 2 dc in every tr-row and 1 dc in every dc-row. Turn piece and work as follows: * 3 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row to bottom of band. Fasten off and repeat along right front piece, beg from WS at the top by neck.

CROCHET EDGE AROUND COLLAR:
Work with off white as follows: Beg from RS where collar beg after the 3 sts at the top of neck and work 1 row dc around the entire collar until where collar ends before the top 3 sts in neck in the other side. Turn piece and work as follows: * 3 ch, skip approx. 2 sts, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-*, NOTE: Adjust so that no of ch-spaces can be divided by 2 + 1. Turn piece and work a finishing edge with fans as follows from RS: Work sl sts until mid of first ch-space, 3 ch (= 1 tr), * 3 tr + 2 ch + 3 tr in next ch-space, 1 tr in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* the entire row. Fasten off.

BOW:
Work 11 ch on hook size 3.5 mm with off white. Work first row as follows: 1 tr in 4th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 7 ch = 9 tr on row. Turn piece and work TEXTURE ROWS back and forth until piece measures approx. 10 cm – finish after 1 row with dc. Fasten off. Sew short sides tog to form a ring and twine some yarn around the mid of bow to tighten it neatly in the middle. Fasten bow at the top on right front piece.

Diagram

= 1 dc
= 1 ch
= 1 tr
= marker


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-12) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (96)

Maren 08.07.2020 - 21:57:

Hallo! Vielen Dank für die tolle(n) Anleitung(en)! Nur, um sicher zu gehen - wenn ich die Ärmel häkle beginne ich ja mit festen Maschen und das macht mit der Reihe davor (bevor ich mit dem Rumpfteil begonnen habe) dann ja zwei Reihen mit festen Maschen, ist das so richtig? Oder fällt das nicht so auf, weil ich die von hinten häkle? Vielen Dank und liebe Grüße!

DROPS Design 09.07.2020 kl. 09:32:

Liebe Maren, ja stimmt so, aber ich vermute Sie können auch die erste Reihe ben den Ärmeln mit Stäbchen häkeln, damit Sie das Strukturmuster wie zuvor weiterzuhäkeln. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

Doreen Ryan 03.06.2020 - 00:33:

As I Began the Yoke I ended finishing on the RS . But then the directions say to start Next Row on The RS . What do I do here, tie off the last row? Or?

DROPS Design 03.06.2020 kl. 07:19:

Dear Mrs Ryan, the dividing row on yoke is a row worked from RS (with double crochets/US-term.) on first row on body you crochet from WS 1 row with sc and continue the texture rows as before. Happy crocheting!

Gina 07.04.2020 - 22:21:

Hei. Jeg forstår ikke hvordan jeg skal hekle armene. Når jeg skal begynne har jeg 52 masker og ikke 46 og ender opp med 57 masker når jeg har heklet de to første radene oppskriften i (12/18mnd) dette går ikke opp med fellingen av masker for å få til 40 masker til slutt. og skal jeg begynne med en rad med å hekle en rad med fm over den raden med fm som er der fra før? og skal den hekles sammen eller syes sammen når armen er ferdig heklet?

Carla 16.02.2020 - 21:24:

Thank you!\r\nits an adorable pattern!

Marianne Clemmensen 28.01.2020 - 19:37:

Jeg forstår ikke hvor jeg skal begynder at lave ærmer de 4 lm?, hvor skal jeg hækle fm ? Efter ... når jeg prøversom der står får jeg et stort hul og en flap af de 6 lm . Jeg håber du kan hjælpe mig . Mvh Marianne

DROPS Design 10.02.2020 kl. 14:24:

Hei Marianne. Usikker på hvilken størrelse du hekler, men i f.eks størrelse 2 år har du 50 masker, nå startes det med 4 luftmasker, deretter 1 fastmaske i hver av de neste 50 masker, så hekles det 6 luftmasker. Snu arbeidet og hekle 1 stav i 4. luftmaske fra nålen, hekle 1 stav i hver av de 2 neste luftmaskene (i de 6 luftmaskene er det heklet 3 staver, de 3 luftmaskene som er igjen = 1 stav), 1 stav i hver fastmaske fra forrige rad og 1 stav i hver av de 4 luftmaskene fra begynnelsen av forrige rad (ingen luftmasker igjen) = 58 masker på raden. Videre hekles det STRUKTURRADER frem og tilbake som før med fastmasker fra vrangen og staver fra retten. God Fornøyelse!

Jennie 16.09.2019 - 15:03:

När man gör kragen och kommer till A.2, ska man bara göra stolpar på alla varv då?

DROPS Design 17.09.2019 kl. 15:47:

Hej Jennie, ja A.2 är bara stolpar, men på varv 1 virkar du 2 stolpar i de 2 mittersta maskorna i diagrammet . Och på varv 2 virkar du 2 stolpar i mitten på diagrammet igen. Lycka till :)

Susan Wols 15.08.2019 - 20:14:

Fins det en fullstending instruksjonsvideo av denne oppskriften? Synes forklaringene er litt rotete hos dere, lettere å følge en video..

DROPS Design 06.09.2019 kl. 10:40:

Hej Susan, nej vi har ikke hele jakken på video. Du starter der hvor der står BÆRESTYKKE og følger opskriften række for række i din størrelse. Vi har en video som viser hvordan man hækler raglanudtagninger, se til venstre i opskriften under billedet. God fornøjelse!

Vianca 22.06.2019 - 06:29:

Hola! En el canesú cuando se terminan las 6 vueltas con aumentos en la talla 6/9 quedan 182 puntos en total, pero dice que deberían quedar 198. Mi pregunta es si en realidad son 7 vueltas de aumentos y no 6??

DROPS Design 27.06.2019 kl. 23:15:

Hola Vianca. Primero hacemos unos aumentos según el patrón: Trabajar 1 p.a. en cada p.b. pero en cada p.b. con MP trabajar 2 p.a. + 2 p.de cad. + 2 p.a. = 94-98-102-102 (102-106) p.a. en la fila. Ahora trabajar un total de 6 veces los aumentos, es decir, en cada fila con aumentos tenemos 16 puntos más ( 6x16= 96 puntos aumentados). 102 + 96 = quedan 198 puntos.

Bethina 05.06.2019 - 11:30:

Efter mærkningerne skal jeg hækle 2 st, 2 lm, 2 st i hver fm ved mærkningerne, som så kun giver 12 ekstra masker. Det regnestykke forstår jeg simpelthen ikke. Kan se at andre har spurgt om det samme, men jeg forstår ikke svaret

DROPS Design 05.06.2019 kl. 12:09:

Hej Bethina, hvilken størrelse er det du ikke kan få til at stemme?

Helena Hammarberg 04.05.2019 - 19:38:

Jag förstår mig inte på början av armen. Ska man plocka upp maskorna från fram/bakstycket eller hur har ni tänkt

DROPS Design 07.05.2019 kl. 15:01:

Hei Helena. De maskene du hoppet over på slutten av bærestykket = ermene. Du hekler altså luftmasker (= under ermet) også fortsetter du å hekle over de maskene du hoppet over, og avslutter omgangen med luftmasker. Så fortsetter du å hekle frem og tilbake med strukturrader som forklart. God fornøyelse

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