DROPS Baby / 25 / 16

Beth by DROPS Design

Crochet baby dress with raglan, short sleeves and fan edges, worked top down in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size 0-4 years

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-009-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 0/1 - 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 40-44-48-52 (56-60) cm / 15¾”-17¼”-19”-20½” (22”-23½”)
Full length: 30-36-40-44 (48-52) cm / 11¾”-14¼”-15¾”-17¼” (19”-20½”)
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
100-100-100-150 (150-150) g color no 1306, powder
50 g for all sizes in color no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 8 texture rows vertically = 4’’ x 4’’ (10 x 10 cm).

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON NO 521: 3 pieces for all sizes

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 6.80 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 6.80 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 20.40$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first sc at beg of every sc round/row with 1 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round. Finish row with 1 sc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.
Replace first dc at beg of every dc round/row with 3 ch. Finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round. Finish row with 1 dc in ch from beg of previous row.

TEXTURE ROWS:
* 1 row/round sc, 1 row/round dc *, repeat from *-* (1 row/round sc + 1 row/round dc = 1 texture row).

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 sc/dc by working 2 sc/dc in same st.

PATTERN:
See diagram A.1.
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DRESS:
Read US/UK above! The piece is worked top down. Work back and forth from mid back to after vent mid back, then work piece in the round.

YOKE:
Ch 67-71-75-79 (79-83) (includes 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with powder. Work 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then work 1 sc in every ch the entire row = 66-70-74-78 (78-82) sc on row.
Now insert 4 markers in piece for raglan as follows (beg mid back – NOTE: Do NOT work while inserting markers):
Skip 9-10-11-12 (12-13) sc (= right back piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 13 sc (= sleeve), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 18-20-22-24 (24-26) sc (= front piece), insert 1 marker in next sc, skip 13 sc (= sleeve) and insert last marker in next sc (there are now 9-10-11-12 (12-13) sc on left back piece after last marker).
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
READ CROCHET INFO and work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 dc in every sc but in every sc with marker work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc = 78-82-86-90 (90-94) dc on row.
Then work TEXTURE ROWS – see explanation above (work back and forth with 1 sc/dc in every st from previous row but on every row with sc from WS work 2 ch over the 2 ch from previous row in raglan lines).
AT THE SAME TIME on 1st row from RS (i.e. row with dc) inc for raglan as follows: Work 2 dc + 2 ch + 2 dc in every ch-space in every raglan line (= 16 dc inc on row - NOTE: Work in both ch-spaces). Repeat inc on every row from RS 3-3-4-4 (5-6) more times (= 4-4-5-5 (6-7) times in total) = 142-146-166-170 (186-206) sts. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
After last inc for raglan work 1 row with sc from WS as before.
Work next row as follows from RS:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 19-20-23-24 (26-29) dc (= right back piece), skip the next 33-33-37-37 (41-45) sc (= sleeve), work 6-8-6-10 (10-8) ch, work 1 dc in each of the next 38-40-46-48 (52-58) sc (= front piece), skip the next 33-33-37-37 (41-45) sc (= sleeve), work 6-8-6-10 (10-8) ch and work 1 dc in each of the last 19-20-23-24 (26-29) sc (= left back piece).
Sleeve caps are now done and piece is worked in the round.

BODY:
Put piece tog mid back with RS out and work 1 round with sc (work 1 sc in every dc from previous round and 1 sc in every ch under each sleeve – remember CROCHET INFO) = 88-96-104-116 (124-132) sts on round. Insert 1 marker in each side = 44-48-52-58 (62-66) sts on front and back piece.
Continue in the round with TEXTURE ROWS.
When piece measures approx. 2 cm / 3/4’’ from markers under sleeves, inc 1 st on each side of both markers - READ INCREASE TIP (= 4 sts inc).
Repeat inc every 1½-2-3-3 (3-3½) cm / ½”-3/4”-3 1/8”-3 1/8” (1 1/8”-1¼”) 5-6-6-7 (8-8) more times (= 6-7-7-8 (9-9) times in total) = 112-124-132-148 (160-168) sts.
When piece measures approx. 13-19-22-25 (28-31) cm / 5 1/8”-7½”-8¾”-9¾” (11”-12¼”) from markers (finish after 1 round with dc, inc should be done), work 1 round sc AT THE SAME TIME inc 8-2-0-2 (2-0) sc evenly – READ INCREASE TIP = 120-126-132-150 (162-168) sc. Cut the yarn.
Switch to off white and work 1 round sc with 1 sc in every sc from previous round. Then work Fan pattern according to diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
ROUND 1: * ch 3, skip 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 3 ch and 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round = 40-42-44-50 (54-56) ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work sl sts until mid of first ch-space, 3 ch (= 1 dc), * 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* until 1 ch-space remains, work 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in last ch-space and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 20-21-22-25 (27-28) dc-groups with 1 dc between every dc-group.
ROUND 3-4: 3 ch (= 1 dc), * 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in mid of next dc-group, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc in ch-space in mid of last dc-group and 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: Work as round 3-4 but in ch-space in the mid of every dc-group work 4 dc + 2 ch + 4 dc (instead of 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc). Repeat 5th round until edge measures approx. 6 cm / 2½’’ in all sizes (or desired length). Then work last round the same way but with 5 dc + 2 ch + 5 dc in ch-space in the mid of every dc-group.

TWINED STRING:
Cut 3 lengths off white yarn of 3 metres/3.25 yds each. Twine the strands tog until they resist, fold the string double so that it twines again. Make a knot at each end. Thread the string up and down through a dc row, approx. 2 cm / 3/4’’ below armhole on dress, beg from mid front.

BOW:
Ch 11 on hook size 3.5 mm/E with off white. Work first row as follows: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, 1 dc in each of the next 7 ch = 9 dc on row. Turn piece and work TEXTURE ROWS back and forth until piece measures approx. 10 cm / 4’’ – finish after 1 row with sc. Fasten off.
Sew short sides tog to form a ring and twine some yarn around the mid of bow to tighten it neatly in the middle. Fasten bow mid front on dress, just above string.

ADJUSTING NECKLINE:
For better fit work a small elevation at the back of neck. Insert 1 marker in st in each corner in neck, i.e. at beg of every raglan line and 1 marker mid front.
Work on hook size 3.5 mm/E with powder as follows:
Beg mid back, work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remains before st with marker, work 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, then work 1 sc in every st until 1 st remains before next st with marker, 1 hdc in next st, 1 dc in st with marker and 1 hdc in next st, the work 1 sc in every st until 4-4-5-5 (5-6) sts remain before marker mid front.
Turn piece and work 1 sc in every sc back to mid back but at every marker work 3 sc tog, i.e. work 1 sc in hdc but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 sc in st with marker but wait with last YO and pull through, work 1 sc in next hdc but now pull last YO through all 4 sts on hook (= 2 sc dec).
Cut the yarn and repeat from mid back to mid front in the other side.

BUTTON BAND AT THE BACK:
Work along left opening mid back with powder as follows: 1 sc in every sc row and 2 sc in every dc row. Work a total of 4 rows sc back and forth, fasten off.
Along right opening mid back work buttonholes as follows (beg from RS at neckline): Work 3 sc (1 sc in sc row and 2 sc in dc row). 4 ch (= 1 buttonhole), skip approx. 1 cm / ½’’, work sc until approx. mid on band, ch 4, skip approx. 1 cm / ½’’, work sc until 1 cm / ½’’ remains on band, 4 ch and fasten with 1 sc in last st. Fasten off. Sew the buttons on to button band in the left side.

NECK EDGE:
Work around the neck with off white as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire row, fasten off.

FAN EDGE AROUND SLEEVE CAPS:
Work with off white as follows: Work 1 sc in each of the 6-8-6-10 (10-8) sts mid under sleeve, then work fan edge around the sleeve opening as follows: * Skip approx. 2 sts, in next st work 3 dc + 2 ch + 3 dc, skip approx. 2 sts, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round (= approx. 5-5-6-6 (7-7) fans along sleeve cap).
Fasten off.
Repeat at the bottom around the other sleeve cap.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 sc
= 1 ch
= 1 sl st
= 1 dc


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 25-16) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

Miriam 01.03.2020 - 00:59:

Hi, question about the body section , are the markers at the front or the back ? I am a bit confused ! Many thanks in advance.

DROPS Design 01.03.2020 kl. 09:55:

Dear Miriam, at the yoke the markers are at the 4 raglan-lone, and then, at the body there is 2 markers, 1 at each side of the dress. Happy Crafting!

Marte 24.02.2020 - 17:24:

Hei. :) Hvilket annet drops garn kan du anbefale å hekle denne kjolen i?

DROPS Design 25.02.2020 kl. 08:51:

Hej Marte, Prøv vores garnkalkulator som findes under billedet i opskriften, så får du alle de kvaliteter fra garngruppe A som du kan erstatte DROPS BabyAlpaca med. God fornøjelse!

MariAnne 05.01.2020 - 23:08:

Hei. Jeg holder på å hekle kjolen, men når jeg skal hekle rundt. Da jeg har heklet rundt en omgang, skal jeg snu og hekle motsatt av neste omgang? Jeg har heklet samme vei ved hver omgang, men begynnelse og slutt blir skjev jo lenger jeg kommer nedover kjolen.

DROPS Design 03.02.2020 kl. 14:24:

Hei MariAnne. Usikker på hva du gjør feil, men den skal ikke bli skeiv. Har du hoppet over noen masker når du snur? Prøv å telle maskene etter hver omgang. Husk å lese Hekleinfo i oppskriften. God Fornøyelse!

Amy Weisenburger 28.10.2019 - 22:45:

How many texture rows will there be in the yoke?

DROPS Design 30.10.2019 kl. 14:12:

Hello Amy! It depends on the size. Please look at the number for your size. Happy crocheting!

Charlotte Bundgaard 26.02.2019 - 17:35:

Skal man tælle de 3 luftmasker i begyndelsen af omgangen med, når man skal kontrollere at man har 146 stangmasker, når man er færdig med udtagning til raglan?

DROPS Design 07.03.2019 kl. 13:43:

Hei Charlotte. Første stav på omgangen erstattes av 3 luftmasker, så disse telles som 1 stav - se hekleinfo på toppen av oppskriften. God fornøyelse

Mette B 07.12.2018 - 15:43:

Så jeg skal ikke tælle den første række med udtagninger med? Altså den med de 90 st?

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 10:12:

Hei igjen Mette. Den første økingen der du øker til 90 staver er ikke medregnet i beskrivelsen av øking til raglan. Denne kommer i tillegg. Du øker altså først til 90 staver som beskrevet, og videre følger du økingen til raglan og øker slik totalt 6 ganger. Du har da 186 staver på omgangen. God fornøyelse.

Mette B 06.12.2018 - 16:31:

Hej. Jeg er ved at lave kjolen i str. 92, og når jeg laver 6 rækker med udtagninger (bærestykket), så ender jeg kun på 170 st og ikke 186 som man skal. Jeg har talt og talt, og kigget opskriften igennem flere gang og kan umiddelbart ikke finde fejlen, jeg har derfor lavet en ekstra række med udt. så det passer med antal masker i opskriften. Kan I mon regne ud, hvad der er galt?

DROPS Design 07.12.2018 kl. 11:03:

Hei Mette. Før du begynner med øking til raglan har du altså 90 staver på raden (78 staver + 3 staver økt ved hvert merke). Deretter øker du 16 staver på hver omgang fra retten, dette gjør du totalt 6 ganger = 96 masker økt. Det betyr at du har 90 (staver fra før) + 96 (staver økt til raglan) = 186 staver totalt på omgangen. God fornøyelse

Charlotte 15.10.2018 - 11:10:

Hej. Jeg skal til at hækle denne, men jeg er forvirret over, hvordan de 4 mærketråde skal sættes i. Hvad betyder det, når der står "start midt bagpå"? Hvordan gøres dette og hvad er for og bag på en række luftmasker?

DROPS Design 29.10.2018 kl. 15:47:

Hej, du starter kjolen øverst ved halsen, tænker dig ind i hvordan den vil se ud på og starter med at hækle ved slidsen midt bagpå. Du tæller altså fra første maske (som skal blive bagpå) når du sætter mærketrådene. God fornøjelse!

Pia-Lotta 19.06.2018 - 11:33:

Nej snälla ta du och räkna igenom det som står i mönstret för för ålder 6/9 mån. Första ökningsvarvet så står det att man skall öka 2+2r och så blir det 86 men 86-74=12 inte 16. Så du menar att man skall öka 6 gånger och inte 5 som det står? Det är före strukturvarven som problemet uppstår.6/9 månader får 170 maskor... 74+16+5*16=170 För hur man skall öka bara 12 maskor under det där första ökningsvarvet fattar jag inte. Kan du förklara det?

DROPS Design 20.06.2018 kl. 09:55:

Hej igen, jo du har 74 fm. Du virkar 1 st i 70 av dessa fm - och i de 4 fm med mærktråd virkar du 2st+2lm+2st = 16st nu har du totalt 86 st. :)

Pia-Lotta 10.06.2018 - 17:16:

Hej håller på med storlek 6/9mån och får inte ihop antalet stolpar... Har gjort mönstervarvet med ökningar 5 gånger- 74+5*16= 154 och inte 166... inte ens om man tar med luftmaskorna så stämmer det. Med 8 luftmaskor så blir det 162 och lägger man till ett varv till så blir det 170stolpar... Suck Jag får verkligen inte ihop det Pia

DROPS Design 11.06.2018 kl. 17:54:

Hej, det ökas 16 maskor totalt 5 gånger (80 ökade maskor). Då du påbörjar strukturmönstret har du 86 maskor, med de ökade maskorna ska det då bli 166 maskor.

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