DROPS / 153 / 22

Mistral by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with dropped sts in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no cl-032
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 100-108-116-126-138-150 cm / 39½"-42½"-45 3/4"-49½"-54 1/4"-59"
Full length: 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼''

DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g color no 31, pearl gray

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7- or size needed to get 18 sts x 1 repetition of diagram A.1 vertically = 10 x 12.5 cm / 4" x 4 7/8".

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 2.20 $ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = K2 rows.

See diagram A.1 - repeated over all sts.
To avoid a tight edge in the sides, on the sleeves and in the neck work every row with YO as follows: First and last st are worked with one extra YO in addition to YO/YOs, i.e. when 1 YO is explained work 2 yos, where 2 YOs are explained work 3 YOs and so on.

To make the transition between inc more even, work row with YO as follows before inc: Work the last 2 sts with YO before inc beg with only 1 YO, i.e. where 3 YOs are explained work 1 YO.

Worked in one - beg at bottom of front piece, cast on sts for sleeve, bind off for neck and finish at the bottom of back piece. Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts.

Cast on 90-98-104-114-124-136 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 with Cotton Light and work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work PATTERN A.1 over all sts - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures approx. 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm / 13''-13 3/8''-13¾''-14¼''-14½''-15'', adjust after 1 row K where YO is dropped off, insert 1 marker in the side. Now inc for sleeves as follows: READ INCREASE TIP! Loosely cast on new sts at the end of every row in each side: 6-6-5-5-4-4 sts 9-9-10-10-12-11 times in total, 10-8-10-8-6-6 sts 1 time in total in each side = 218-222-224-230-232-236 sts on needle.
When piece measures approx. 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-21"-21 1/4"-22"-22 3/4" - adjust after 4 rows K, bind off the middle 32-32-34-34-36-36 sts for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately = 93-95-95-98-98-100 sts remain on shoulder/sleeve. Continue with pattern. When piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm / 21¼''-22''-22¾''-23 5/8''-24 3/8''-25¼'', adjust after 4 rows K, work 1 ridge. Insert a marker (= end of front piece). Work back piece from here.

Front and back piece have the same measurements - see chart. Back piece is worked top down - adjust according to measurements on front piece - AT THE SAME TIME work pattern reversed.

Sew side and underarm seams in one - NOTE: To avoid a tight edge sew in outer loops of edge sts in ridges - fasten in ridges, pull yarn as long as YO, fasten along the edge the same way.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= K from RS, K from WS
= K1, 3 yos
= K1, 2 yos
= K1, 1 yo
= K1, drop yo(s) from previous row

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 153-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (45)

Selma 08.06.2016 - 18:00:

Bonsoir,pouvez vous m'expliquer comment rabattre les mailles des manches.je tricote la taille M.Je precise que j'ai fini le devant et les manches,et je devrais avoir les 98m initiales?dois je rabattre ces m de la meme maniere que lors des augmentations?merci a vous.

DROPS Design 08.06.2016 kl. 18:59:

Bonjour Selma, on tricote le dos en sens inverse du devant, quand vous avez pour le dos la même hauteur entre le marqueur de l'épaule et les dernières mailles montées pour le devant, vous rabattez les mailles des manches en sens inverse de l'ordre où elles ont été montées, soit tous les rangs au début de chaque rang: 1 fois 8 m et 9 fois 6 m = il restera 98 m pour le bas du dos. Continuez sur ces 98 m jusqu'à ce que l'ouvrage mesure 56 cm depuis le marqueur de l'épaule. Bon tricot!

Selma 09.05.2016 - 13:02:

Merci pour la rapidite de vos reponses,les augmentations de nouvelles mailles me parait plus simple grace a la nouvelles video!!merci et bonne semaine!!!!!

Selma 08.05.2016 - 21:40:

Rebonsoir,je tricote la taille M,et il est dit pour les augm. des manches de monter 9x6 mailles de chaques cotes, et 1 x8mailles.Faut il sur 9 rg a la suite augmenter 6m de chaque cote? et faire pareil pour la 2o augm.? Les augmentations je sais faire mais comme sur la video j'ai pas tres bien compris.Merci d'avance.

DROPS Design 09.05.2016 kl. 11:12:

Bonjour Selma, pour monter les mailles, voir réponse ci-dessous, pour le nbe, il faut monter 9x6 m de chaque côté, soit à la fin des 9 rangs suivants (vous avez 54 nouvelles m montées de chaque côté et 206 m au total), puis montez 8 m à la fin des 2 rangs suivants (= 62 m montées au total de chaque côté, et 222 m au total). Bon tricot!

Selma 08.05.2016 - 21:30:

Bonsoir,je ne comprend pas les augmentations pour les manches:en regardant la video concernant ce genre d'augmentations il me semble que l'on tricote un nombre X la maille du debut du rg?ai-je bien compris?Merci

DROPS Design 09.05.2016 kl. 11:09:

Bonjour Selma, avant de monter les mailles, on fait 1 jeté en moins (aux 2 dernières mailles), puis on monte les mailles comme dans la vidéo ci-dessous, 2ème méthode, time code 1:40 environ: on tricote la 1ère m et on place la nouvelle maille sur l'aiguille gauche (= 1 m montée), on tricote cette nouvelle maille et on place la nouvelle m sur l'aiguille gauche (= 1 nouvelle maille montée= 2 mailles en plus au total) et ainsi de suite. Bon tricot!

Selma 11.04.2016 - 20:06:

Merci pour votre reponse rapide!C'est la premiere fois que je tricote en suivant un diagramme d'ou ma mauvaise lecture de la grille!!merci encore a vous.

Selma 10.04.2016 - 23:42:

Juste un peu plus bas au niveau de la poitrine du manequin je vois que les la taille des trous est pareille sur 2 rangs de suite,d'ou ma question precedente? merci.

DROPS Design 11.04.2016 kl. 11:53:

Bonjour Selma, voir réponse ci-dessous. Bon tricot!

Selma 10.04.2016 - 23:37:

Bonsoir! j'ai besoin d'une precision concernant ce point:en agrandissant la photo j'ai l'impression que le rang 1m end,1 jete.......1m. end,1 jete est tricote 2 fois de suite ce qui n'est pas mentionne sur le diagramme,y a t'il eu un oubli?merci.

DROPS Design 11.04.2016 kl. 11:45:

Bonjour Selma, il y a bien 2 rangs dans le diagramme où on tricote 1 jeté (qui sera lâché au rang suivant), soit aux rangs 19 et 25 (aux rangs 1 et 7, on a 3 jetés, et au rang 13, 2 jetés). Bon tricot!

Esti 08.08.2015 - 11:00:

Hola, estoy trabajando en este patrón y no tengo muy claro cuándo tengo que volver a coger los puntos que he cerrado para el cuello ; lo hago justo después de haber terminado los hombros? Gracias de antemano Un saludo

DROPS Design 13.08.2015 kl. 20:15:

Hola Esti, el escote no tiene remate, solamente el borde con los pts rematados en el delantero y la espalda.

Doris 20.07.2015 - 16:16:

Habe den Pullover in L gestrickt. Er ist sehr groß ausgefallen, obwohl die Maschenprobe gestimmt hat. Und leider sind die Ärmel viel zu lang.

DROPS Design 28.07.2015 kl. 16:19:

Sie finden die Maßangaben in der Maßskizze unten. Es ist immer ratsam, vor dem Stricken Maß zu nehmen, um die passende Größe herauszufinden. Der Pullover ist zudem sehr großzügig geschnitten.

Terri 09.03.2015 - 20:49:

Hello. When working the back do I bind-off or decrease sleeve stitches? If decrease, what looks best KTOG or SSK? Thanks!

DROPS Design 10.03.2015 kl. 08:57:

Dear Terri, when working on back piece, you will bind off the sts for sleeves in each side, ie 10-8-10-8-6-6 sts 1 time in total and 6-6-5-5-4-4 sts 9-9-10-10-12-11 times in total. Happy knitting!

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