DROPS / 153 / 22

Mistral by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with dropped sts in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.

  • Mistral / DROPS 153-22 - Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with dropped sts in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.
  • Mistral / DROPS 153-22 - Knitted DROPS jumper in garter st with dropped sts in ”Cotton Light”. Size: S - XXXL.
DROPS design: Pattern no cl-032
Yarn group B
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
DROPS COTTON LIGHT from Garnstudio
400-450-500-550-600-650 g colour no 31, pearl grey

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm) SIZE 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 1 repetition of diagram A.1 vertically = 10 x 12.5 cm.

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

50% Cotton, 50% Polyester
from 1.00 £ /50g
DROPS Cotton Light uni colour DROPS Cotton Light uni colour 1.00 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

See diagram A.1 - repeated over all sts.
To avoid a tight edge in the sides, on the sleeves and in the neck work every row with YO as follows: First and last st are worked with one extra YO in addition to YO/YOs, i.e. when 1 YO is explained work 2 yos, where 2 YOs are explained work 3 YOs and so on.

To make the transition between inc more even, work row with YO as follows before inc: Work the last 2 sts with YO before inc beg with only 1 YO, i.e. where 3 YOs are explained work 1 YO.

Worked in one - beg at bottom of front piece, cast on sts for sleeve, cast off for neck and finish at the bottom of back piece. Worked back and forth on a circular needle to make room for all the sts.

Cast on 90-98-104-114-124-136 sts on circular needle size 4.5 mm with Cotton Light and work 3 ridges in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Then work PATTERN A.1 over all sts - see explanation above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION!
When piece measures approx. 33-34-35-36-37-38 cm, adjust after 1 row K where YO is dropped off, insert 1 marker in the side. Now inc for sleeves as follows: READ INCREASE TIP! Loosely cast on new sts at the end of every row in each side: 6-6-5-5-4-4 sts 9-9-10-10-12-11 times in total, 10-8-10-8-6-6 sts 1 time in total in each side = 218-222-224-230-232-236 sts on needle.
When piece measures approx. 49-51-53-54-56-58 cm - adjust after 4 rows K, cast off the middle 32-32-34-34-36-36 sts for neck and finish each shoulder/sleeve separately = 93-95-95-98-98-100 sts remain on shoulder/sleeve. Continue with pattern. When piece measures approx. 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, adjust after 4 rows K, work 1 ridge. Insert a marker (= end of front piece). Work back piece from here.

Front and back piece have the same measurements - see chart. Back piece is worked top down - adjust according to measurements on front piece - AT THE SAME TIME work pattern reversed.

Sew side and underarm seams in one - NOTE: To avoid a tight edge sew in outer loops of edge sts in ridges - fasten in ridges, pull yarn as long as YO, fasten along the edge the same way.


symbols = K from RS, K from WS
symbols = K1, 3 yos
symbols = K1, 2 yos
symbols = K1, 1 yo
symbols = K1, drop yo(s) from previous row

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 153-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (49)

country flag Pernille 25.02.2021 - 17:22:

Hejsa Jeg har brug for yderligere forklaring... Hvordan i alverden kan jeg spejlvende mønsteret?? Jeg kan da ikke smide omslag på rækken, inden jeg har lavet omslagene... omslagene burde jo først laves på den efterfølgende række, hvis det skal spejlvendes. Jeg forstår det altså ikke...

user icon DROPS Design 26.02.2021 kl. 08:01:

Hej Pernille, du skal altid starte nederst i diagrammet. Her starter du med omslag på første række, som slippes af pinden på næste ifølge diagrammet. God fornøjelse!

country flag Francine D'Amour 23.02.2021 - 05:18:

Bonjour, merci pour ce très beau modèle. C'est mon premier chandail à vie. Je tricote la grandeur petit. Ma question concerne l'encolure qu'il faut fermer dans le dos. Je comprends qu'il faut monter 32 mailles et réunir le tout. Comment fait- on pour que ce soit joli sans vilaine démarcation? Merci à l'avance.

user icon DROPS Design 23.02.2021 kl. 08:57:

Bonjour Mme D'Amour, cette vidéo montre comment monter les mailles sur le côté, au rang après avoir tricoté les mailles de l'autre épaule/manche, vous pouvez relever le fil entre la dernière maille sur l'aiguille et la 1ère des mailles montées et de même à la fin de l'encolure entre la dernière des mailles montées et la 1ère des mailes sur l'aiguille; placez ce fil relevé torse sur l'aiguille gauche et tricotez-le avec la maille suivante. Quelques éventuelles irrégularités complémentaires peuvent être ensuite fixées avec quelques points si besoin. Bon tricot!

country flag Carla 17.02.2021 - 21:21:

Ik ben nu klaar met het voorpand, zet ik nu weer 32 steken op voor de achterhals? En hoe moet ik nu verder, direct weer de kussen breien? Want aan de voorhals eindig ik met vier naalden recht dat zou dan achter ook moeten?

user icon DROPS Design 18.02.2021 kl. 09:25:

Dag Carla,

Ja, klopt; waar je op het voorpand steken hebt afgekant voor de hals, zet je bij het achterpand steken op. Dus alles omkeren. Veel breiplezier!

country flag Britt-Marie Eriksson 04.02.2021 - 11:47:

Hur får jag en snygg halsringning när jag maskat av mitt fram och sedan ska fortsätta ytterligare 5cm med sidorna i tappade maskor innan de kopplas samman med bakstycket? Så ser det inte ut på bilden.

user icon DROPS Design 12.02.2021 kl. 11:32:

Hei Britt-Marie. Har du, når arbeidet målte ca 54-56-58-60-62-64 cm, avpasset å avsluttet etter 4 pinne rett i diagrammet og deretter strikket 1 rille (=2 rader)? Da skal du få en hals som du ser på bildet. mvh DROPS design

country flag Nida Kamran 16.11.2020 - 15:10:

Can you please explain me this( 18 sts x 1 repetition of diagram A.1 vertically = 10x12.5 cm.) When I used 4.5 mm needle it become 10 cm in width but in length it far more then 12.5 cm but when I used 4 mm it become 9.5x17 cm . Can you please help me.

user icon DROPS Design 16.11.2020 kl. 16:32:

Dear Mrs Kamran, you will read more about tension here - you can watch and let your swatch dry flat before checking measurements one more time - should the height be still not exacthly right, you could keep the needles with the right width and adjust length to the given indications in cm. Happy knitting!

country flag Nadine 07.04.2020 - 00:30:

Bonjour. Comment tricoter une manche à la fois lorsqu’on utilise une aiguille circulaire?

user icon DROPS Design 14.04.2020 kl. 15:14:

Bonjour Nadine, quand vous tricotez la première épaule/manche, vous pouvez mettre la deuxième épaule/manche en attente sur un arrêt de mailles ou sur un fil ou simplement les laisser sur l'aiguille, sans les tricoter. Bon tricot!

country flag Gianni D'aniello 26.03.2020 - 20:07:

Salve, dopo aver lavorato gli aumenti, chiuso le maglie dello scollo (53 cm) e i 4 ferri a diritto per "aggiustare il lavoro il mio corpo misura in altezza 58cm (polsino10cm) ma il mio polsino non misura 23 cm e pure lavorando gli altri 5 cm extra per lo scollo non misurerebbe così tanto come faccio ad arrivare a 23 cm?

user icon DROPS Design 27.03.2020 kl. 16:09:

Buongiorno Gianni. Quando ha lavorato anche i 5 cm per lo scollo, è arrivato a metà del lavoro. Quindi proseguendo con il dietro, quindi la misura del polsino che ha fino ad adesso è la metà della misura finale. Lavorando anche il dietro, la misura attuale del polsino si raddoppia. Buon lavoro!

country flag Sara 13.09.2019 - 12:10:

Buon giorno,sono arrivata ai 53 cm di lunghezza come previsto dalla mia taglia prima di chiudere le maglie dello scollo,ma non capisco cosa significa nelle istruzioni la dicitura dopo 4 ferri a dir??? che arrivata ai 53 cm devo fare 4 ferri a diritto senza seguire lo schema?

user icon DROPS Design 13.09.2019 kl. 13:37:

Buongiorno Sara. Deve lavorare fino a 53 cm, verificando però che gli ultimi quattro ferri lavorati siano i 4 ferri a diritto del diagramma. Se per.es. a 53 cm, gli ultimi 4 ferri lavorati sono i due con le maglie gettate e 2 ferri a diritto, lavora altri 2 ferri a diritto (così gli ultimi 4 ferri sono ferri a diritto) e poi intreccia le maglie. Buon lavoro!

country flag Elena 28.08.2019 - 17:19:

Buongiorno, vorrei realizzare questo modello utilizzando i ferri classici, come devo modificare lo schema? non mi è chiaro quali ferri lavorare a diritto e quali a rovescio. grazie elena

user icon DROPS Design 28.08.2019 kl. 18:20:

Buonasera Elena, questo modello è lavorato in piano, può seguire le istruzioni riportate. Buon lavoro!

country flag Lorraine 13.07.2019 - 22:28:

When I’ve done both shoulders to I recast on the stitches accross the back Nd continue with the back

user icon DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 10:00:

Dear Lorraine, after the marker on both shoulders, you work now back piece reversed, ie you work each shoulder/sleeve separately: first 1 ridge, then continue in pattern as before until you have reached the same measurement from marker to neck on shoudlers, then cast on the stitches for neck, work both shoulders/sleeve together with new stitches until piece reaches the same measurement to sleeve, then cast off for sleeve in the reversed order you cast on the stitches... You can adjust the height with the cm and the number of rows worked on front piece. Happy knitting!

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