Bernardita by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS neck warmer with domino squares and short rows in ”Fabel”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no fa-250
Yarn group A
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Chest measurements: approx. 88/96 - 104/114 - 126/138 cm / 34½”/37½” – 41”/45” – 49½”/54”

DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
200-200-250 g color no 547, gray/brown

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24’’) size 3.5 mm / US 4 – or size needed to get 23 sts x 46 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4’’ x 4’’.



Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Insert 1 marker in the middle st.
Row 1 (= WS): K all sts.
Row 2 (= RS): K until 1 st remains before st with marker, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K the rest of row.
Repeat 1st and 2nd row, i.e. dec 2 sts in the middle of the square on every other row until 1 st remains, cut the yarn and pull it through remaining st.

Work short rows as follows - first row is worked from WS: Work 3 sts, turn and work back. Work 6 sts, turn and work back. Continue like this (work 3 sts more on every turn) until 2 rows have been worked over all sts. Work 66-78-93 sts, turn and work back. Work 63-75-90 sts, turn and work back. Continue like this (work 3 sts less on every turn) until 2 rows have been worked over only the first 3 sts on needle. Work 1 row over all sts. Work 91-107-127 rows in total at the widest.

Dec for buttonholes on a row from RS. Work a row until 7 sts remain on needle, K the next 2 sts tog, 1 YO, K 5.
Dec for buttonholes when domino square measures (measured along the side, not in the middle of square):
SIZE S/M: 16, 22 and 28 cm / 6¼”, 8¾” and 11”
SIZE L/XL: 20, 28 and 34 cm / 8”, 11” and 13½”
SIZE XL/XXL: 24, 32 and 40 cm / 9½”, 12½” and 15¾”

1ST SQUARE: Cast on 139-163-193 sts on circular needle size 3.5 mm / US 4 with Fabel. Work DOMINO SQUARE back and forth on needle - see explanation above.
2ND SQUARE: Cast on 70-82-97 new sts on needle, from RS pick up 69-81-96 sts along right side on the first domino square = 139-163-193 sts. Work DOMINO SQUARE back and forth on needle.
3RD “SQUARE”: Pick up 69-81-96 sts from RS along upper right side on the second domino square. Then work SHORT ROWS - see explanation above.
4TH SQUARE: Work the 69-81-96 sts on needle (from RS), cast on 70-82-97 new sts at the end of row = 139-163-193 sts. Work Domino square AT THE SAME TIME dec for BUTTONHOLES - see explanation above:

Sew buttons on to first Domino square, place them approx. 12 – 17 cm / 4¾”-6¾” in from the side, see picture.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 151-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

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Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (43)

country flag Juliette Le More wrote:

Bonjour Avez-vous une photo du dos et épaule gauche, car on ne voit pas comment les motifs s'accrochent ? Je ne comprends pas comment démarrer le 4ème motif ?

06.03.2022 - 18:23

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Le More, nous n'avons pas d'autres photos de ce modèle et ne l'avons plus - le 4èume motif se fait en commençant par tricoter les mailles du 3ème motif qui sont sur l'aiguille, puis, vous montez 70-82-97 mailles à la fin de ce rang et vous tricotez 1 domino - vous avez ainsi 1 domino de chaque côté, comme sur la photo. Bon tricot!

07.03.2022 kl. 09:20

country flag Sieglinde Conrad wrote:

Guten Morgen , wo kann ich denn die Wolle für dieses Tuch kaufen ????? Fabel 547

16.11.2019 - 07:06

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Conrad, diese Farbe gehört nicht mehr zur Farbkarte, Ihr DROPS Laden kann Ihnen aber gerne eine andere Farbe vorschlagen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

18.11.2019 kl. 08:52

country flag Niza wrote:

Es posible que mustren como es la espalda del patron. ...??????

13.04.2019 - 08:00

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Niza. El modelo es de una colección antigua y no disponemos de otras fotos.

13.04.2019 kl. 20:30

country flag Kathrin Schliesche wrote:

Hallo, ich versuche mich gerade an dem schönen Stück, aber leider ist mir nicht klar, wie ich nach dem ersten Dominoviereck weitermachen soll. Wenn ich Maschen extra anschlage und dann noch aus dem Rand des 1. Vierecks welche dazunehme, ragen diese Extramaschen ja über den Rand hinaus?? Mir fehlt im Moment jede Vorstellung, eine Skizze wäre hilfreich. Danke!

14.02.2019 - 09:23

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schliesche, für das Domino brauchen Sie eine ungerade Maschenanzahl, die mittlere Masche wird die Masche mit der Markierung (= Abnahme sein), einfach dann das Domino stricken. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

14.02.2019 kl. 11:40

country flag June Tharp wrote:

OMG!!! I NEED this pattern!!! Is there any way I can get it in Crochet? I LOVE LOVE LOVE THIS!!

02.02.2019 - 14:54

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Tharp, we are sorry, this is only as knitting pattern, why do not have a try knitting with our lessons and videos?

04.02.2019 kl. 11:13

Maru Uribe wrote:

Hola queridos diseñadores. Inicié ésta bonita prenda, ya hice el primer cuadrado pero por más que leo las instrucciones no sé cómo continuar, tal vez con algún dibujo se entienda mejor donde montar los puntos para hacer los otros tres cuadros y donde tejer las vueltas cortas. Agradecería me explicarán como seguir esta labor, de antemano, muchas gracias! 😉

26.06.2018 - 09:56

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Maru. Cada siguiente cuadrado se trabaja de la siguiente manera: para hacer un lado del cuadrado se montan puntos nuevos y para hacer el otro lado se recogen puntos sobre un borde del cuadrado anterior. En los primeros 4 min del vídeo siguiente se explica cómo se trabaja esta parte:

30.06.2018 kl. 19:57

Maike Keil wrote:

Guten morgen. Vielen vielen Dank! Das heisst ich brauche nicht zu trennen♥

12.06.2018 - 11:14

country flag Maike Keil wrote:

Guten morgen aus Namibia!\r\n\r\nIch komme einfach bei dem 3. Viereck nicht hin. Bein mir wird es ein Dreieck. Ich stricke die Verkürzten Reihen genau so wie beschrieben, habe 2x getrennt und wieder gestrickt.... es bleibt ein Dreieck. Ich brauche da wirklich Hilfe, Gibt es ein Photo mit der Rückenansicht vielleicht? Lieben Gruss Maike

07.06.2018 - 09:27

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Keil, es ist so richtig, das 3. Teil wird kein Viereck sein sondern ein Dreieck (wegen verkürtzten Reihen und hier kein Dominoquadrat stricken) . Die dominoquadraten werden nur beim 1., 2. und 4. Teil gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

07.06.2018 kl. 09:52

country flag Bibi wrote:

Hello I like this Design, I bought the wool from the suggested place, Is there a clearer direction? I am not sure if I have downloaded the whole pattern. How many dominos squares are there?

10.04.2018 - 16:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Bibi, pattern is complete and neckwarmer is worked from 5 domino square as explained under NECK WARMER. Happy knitting!

11.04.2018 kl. 09:06

country flag Margit Binzer wrote:

Jeg forstår ikke, hvordan og hvor jeg skal strikke 3. Dominorude. Forkortede pinde... jeg vil rigtig gerne se et billede fra ryggen. Det er vanskeligt at gennemskue denne opskrift. Ligger ruderne i en række? Drops 151-40

20.12.2017 - 10:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Margit, Vi har desværre ikke et billede af ryggen. Den 3. rude er ikke på lige række med de 2 andre, den strikkes op mod den anden skulder og former stykket som en kile. Det bliver altså ikke en lang remse men mere en bøjet remse og den er ikke symmetrisk. Held og lykke!

20.12.2017 kl. 11:07

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