Candy Rose by DROPS Design

Crochet dress with lace pattern in DROPS Muskat. Size children 3 - 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no r-034-bn
Yarn group B
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Size: 3/4 - 5/6 - 7/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 64-68-72-76-80 cm / 25 1/4"-26 3/4"-28½"-30"-31½"
Full length: 50-55-60-65-70 cm / 19 3/4"-21½"-23½"-25½"-27½"

Materials:
DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
300-350-400-400-450 g color no 06, light pink

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 17 sts x 15 rows of diagram A.1 = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
On every sc row replace first sc with 1 ch.
On every dc row replace first dc with 3 ch.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec 1 st by working 2 sts tog.
Work 2 sc tog as follows: Insert hook in first st and pull thread through, insert hook in next st and pull thread through, make 1 YO and pull thread through all 3 loops on hook.
Work 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc in first st but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next st but on last pull through, pull thread through all 3 loops on hook.
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DRESS:
To make the texture the same on the piece work it back and forth in 2 parts, and sew tog when finished.

FRONT PIECE:
Ch 81-85-88-93-97 with Muskat on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Continue with 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, then 1 sc in each of the next 2-6-7-9-4 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 sc in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 70-74-77-81-84 sc (first ch = 1 sc). Turn and work 1 sc in every st - READ CROCHET INFO! Continue with diagram A.1 (1st row = 1 dc in every sc). REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
When piece measures 18-20-21-22-23 cm / 7"-8"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9", dec 4 sts evenly - READ DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 4-4-5-5-6 cm / 1½"-1½"-2"-2"-2 3/8" 3 more times = 54-58-61-65-68 sc.
When piece measures 33-37-41-45-49 cm / 13"-14½"-16"-17 3/4"-19 1/4", dec for armholes in each side. This is done as follows: Work sl sts over the first 3-4-4-4-4 sts, then work until 3-4-4-4-4 sts remain, turn piece.
On next row work the second and third and the 2 next to last sts in each side tog – SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec on every row 4 more times. After all dec, 38-40-43-47-50 sts remain on row.
When piece measures 38-43-47-51-55 cm / 15"-17"-18½"-20"-21½", dec for neck. This is done by working each shoulder separately.

1ST SHOULDER: Work over the first 12-12-13-14-15 sts, turn and work the first 4 sts tog 2 by 2, then work the rest of row. Turn and work until 2 sts remain before neck, work these tog, turn. On next row work the first 2 sts tog, then work the rest of row. Turn, work until 2 sts remain, work these tog = 7-7-8-9-10 sts remain on shoulder. Continue A.1 until piece measures 45-50-55-60-65 cm / 17 3/4"-19 3/4"-21½"-23½"-25½", fasten off.

2ND SHOULDER: Work as first shoulder - make sure to start on correct row in diagram and to finish at the top with the same row as 1st shoulder.

FLOUNCE AT THE BOTTOM:
Now work a flounce at the bottom of dress as follows:
Beg by working 1 row with sc from RS – inc evenly so that there are a total of 79-85-85-91-97 sc.
Turn and continue with diagram A.2 as follows: a over the first 7 sts, then b until 6 sts remain, finish with c. Work the 4 rows in A.2 one time, the flounce measures approx. 5 cm / 2'', fasten off.

BACK PIECE:
Work as front piece to and with armhole dec = 38-40-43-47-50 sts on row. Continue to work until piece measures approx. 43-48-53-58-63 cm / 17"-19"-21"-22 3/4"-24 3/4". Then finish each shoulder separately as follows: Work 1 row over the first 9-9-10-11-12 sts, turn, work the first 2 sts tog, work the rest of row.
Turn and work until 2 sts remain towards neck, work these tog. Turn, work 1 st in every st the entire row, fasten off. Repeat on the other shoulder.
Work flounce at the bottom the same way as on front piece.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew shoulder seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. And sew side seams edge to edge to make them less visible.

EDGE AROUND ARMHOLE AND NECK:
Work as follows around the armholes and neck line. 1 sc, * ch 2, skip approx. 0.5 cm / 1/4'', 1 sc *, repeat from *-* around the entire opening and finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in first sc at beg of round.

CROCHET FLOWER
Work on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Muskat. Ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: * 1 sc in ch-ring, ch 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 3 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: Crochet as follows in every ch-space: 1 sl st, 5 dc and 1 sl st = 3 leaves.
Turn piece - work next round on the back of the flower.
ROUND 3: ch 1, work 1 sc around first sc from 1st round, ch 4, work 1 sc at the bottom in the mid of first leaf from 2nd round, * then ch 4, work 1 sc around next sc from 1st round, then ch 4, work 1 sc at the bottom in the mid of next leaf from 2nd round *, repeat from *-* until there are a total of 5 ch-spaces, finish with 4 ch and 1 sl st in first sc from from beg of round = 6 ch-spaces. Turn piece - work next round on the front of the flower.
ROUND 4: Crochet as follows in every ch-space: 1 sl st, 6 dc and 1 sl st = 6 leaves.
Fasten off. Sew the flower on to the dress.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 1 sc
= 1 dc

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 24-29) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (22)

Bobbie 14.07.2020 - 16:59:

I am unable to get the gauge no matter what the hook size. 15 rows of A.1 with double crochet and triple crochets is just impossible, what am I doing wrong? I amusing Muskat yarn as prescribed.

DROPS Design 15.07.2020 kl. 07:29:

Dear Bobbie, in US-English you should work double crochets (treble crochet is the UK-word to US-double crochet) - edit language by clicking on the scroll down menu below foto. Happy crocheting!

Marci Palencia 16.07.2017 - 15:13:

In working the shoulders...I understand when it says work 1st four st together, but what does "2 by 2" mean? I have googled this, but can't find an explanation.

DROPS Design 17.07.2017 kl. 06:22:

Hi Marci, This means that you work together the first 2 stitches and then work together the next 2 stitches. Happy knitting!

Marianna 27.12.2016 - 20:02:

Hallo, Begrijp ik nou goed dat ik de ruche er later aan moet haken? Ik haak pas sinds kort en snap dan niet helemaal hoe ik dat moet doen. Alvast bedankt!

DROPS Design 30.12.2016 kl. 12:26:

Hoi Marianna. Ja, de ruche langs de onderkant wordt na het afmaken van het voorpand gehaakt. Hetzelfde na het haken van het achterpand.

Mireille 10.02.2016 - 00:29:

Avevo del cottone da lavorare col uncinetto n.4 cosi ho scelto questo modello che comunque mi piace molto. Ho fatto il campione per essere tranquilla era giusto. Però dopo aver iniziato il lavoro e lavorato qualche giro mi sembrava troppo grande e misurando invece di 41cm ho 45cm. Mi puoi aiutare se tolgo maglie circa 2 taglie giusto? Ma per le diminuzioni come faccio? Mi puoi dare delle proporzioni? Grazie mille 😊

DROPS Design 10.02.2016 kl. 15:06:

Buongiorno Mireille, probabilmente la sua tensione è cambiata durante il lavoro, aveva lavato il campione? Se ha già finito le diminuzioni in iniziali può iniziare le diminuzioni per lo scalfo qualche giro prima. Ci riscriva se ha ancora bisogno di aiuto. Buon lavoro!

Birgitta Andersson 06.03.2015 - 13:46:

Volang nertill på barnklänning virkad i rosa m blomma små drops24-29. Där står öka jämnt fördelat så att det blir totalt 79 fm men stämmer inte för har virkat till ålder 2till3år lagt upp maskor 81 mvh birgitta

Severine 23.01.2015 - 22:29:

J adore facile a faire tres bien expliqué

Irena 21.11.2014 - 00:59:

The instructions for the flower are incorrect and there fore misleading. It says to do 1 sc and then chain 3. Then is tells you to repeat that a total of 3 time which gives you 4 chain spaces not 3. The original one and then the 3 repeats makes 4. Not a huge issue, just makes a bigger flower.

DROPS Design 10.03.2015 kl. 14:36:

Dear Irena, the video below should help you to work the flower as in the pattern. Happy crocheting!

Gros 24.10.2014 - 11:08:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas le passage: écouler ensemble 2 b à 1 b du bord de chaque côté Merci

DROPS Design 24.10.2014 kl. 11:40:

Bonjour Mme Gros, les diminutions des emmanchures se font ainsi: crochetez la 1ère B du rang, écoulez les 2 B suiv ens, continuez le rang jusqu'à ce qu'il reste 3 B, écoulez les 2 B suiv ens, et terminez par 1 B dans la dernière B. Répétez ce rang encore 4 fois (5 fois au total). Bon crochet!

Anne 22.09.2014 - 21:09:

Geachte mevrouw, Klopt het dat het achterpand straks 4 cm langer valt? Bij de kleinste uitvoering wordt het achterpand langer gehaakt dan het voorpand. Ook worden de schouderbandjes minder breed dan van de voorkant. Is dit correct?? Hartelijk dank voor uw reactie.

DROPS Design 24.09.2014 kl. 17:06:

Hoi Anne. Nee, zowel voor- en achterpand worden even lang en de schouderbanden even breed. Bijvoorbeeld kleinste maat: 7 stk voor beide schouders op het voorpand. Op het achterpand heb je eerst 9 stk voor elke schouder, maar mindert 2 keer (= 7 stk). Voorpand is 45 cm en achterpand haak je tot 43 cm en dan nog 3 toeren voor elk schouder (met minderingen) = ca 45 cm met de juiste haakstekenverhouding en excl. 5 cm ruches aan de onderkant.

Nel Slaman 24.05.2014 - 18:30:

Drops design:modelnr.r-034-bn bij de 2e toer moetje vasten haken in een stokje maar die zijn nog niet aangegeven in het patroon

DROPS Design 27.05.2014 kl. 15:59:

Hoi Nel. De vasten van toer 2 zijn inderdaad niet aangegeven in het patroon A.1, die haak je pas vanaf toer 3 (= 1 stk in elke v).

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