Princess Petal by DROPS Design

Circle jacket crocheted in 2 strands DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk. Size children 3 - 12 years.

DROPS design: Pattern no bs-005-bn
Yarn group A + A
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Size: 3/5 - 6/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years
Chest measurements: 54/58 - 60/64 - 66/70 - 72/76 cm/
21 1/4"/22 3/4" - 23½"/25 1/4"- 26"/27½" - 28½"/30"

Materials:
DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-150-200 g, color no 4088, heather
150-150-150-150 g color no 3250, light old pink
100-100-150-150 g color no 3125, light pink
100-100-100-100 g color no 0100, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 15 dc in width x 8 rows vertically with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 4.75 $ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 4.75 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
STRIPES - BODY:
Worked in a circle from mid back.
Beg with 2 strands of color 4088. Continue as follows:
3-3-4-4 rounds with 2 strands of color 4088.
3-3-4-4 rounds with 1 strand of color 4088 + 1 strand of color 3250.
3-4-4-4 rounds with 2 strands of color 3250.
4-4-4-5 rounds with 1 strand of color 3250 + 1 strand of color 3125.
4-4-4-5 rounds with 2 strands of color 3125.
3-4-4-4 rounds/rows with 1 strand of color 3125 + 1 strand of color 0100.
3-3-5-5 rows with 2 strands of color 0100.

STRIPES - SLEEVE:
Worked from sleeve cap and down in stripes as follows:
Beg with 1 strand of color 3250 + 1 strand of color 3125.
Work 9-10-11-12 cm / 3½"-4"-4½"-4 3/4" with this color combination. Continue with 9-10-11-12 cm / 3½"-4"-4½"-4 3/4" with 2 strands of color 3250 and then 10-10-11-12 cm / 4"-4"-4½"-4 3/4" with 1 strand of color 4088 + 1 strand of color 3250. Then finish the sleeve with 2 strands of color 4088 = approx. 10-11-12-12 cm / 4"-4½"-4 3/4"-4 3/4".

CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc on every round/row with 3 ch. Finish every round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to body):
Dec as follows: Work dc until 3 dc remain, * in the first of these work 1 hdc, in the next 1 sc and in the last 1 sl st, turn with ch 1, skip sl st, work 1 sl st in sc, 1 sc in hdc, 1 hdc in first dc, continue with dc until 3 dc remain at the end of row *, repeat from *-* until 6-7-7-7 rows have been worked in total.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeves):
Dec 1 dc at beg and end of row by working the second and third dc tog and the 2 next to last dc tog, this is done as follows: Work 1 dc in first dc but wait with last pull through, work 1 dc in next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all 3 loops on hook.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back with 2 strands and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Ch 5 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. READ CROCHET INFO!
ROUND 1:
12 dc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2:
1 dc, * ch 2, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc = 12 dc with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3:
1 dc in every dc and 2 dc in every ch-space the entire round = 36 dc.
ROUND 4:
* 1 dc in each of the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 48 dc.
ROUND 5:
1 dc, * ch 2, skip 1 dc, 1 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 2 ch and 1 sl st in 1st dc = 24 dc with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 6:
1 dc in every dc and 2 dc in every ch-space the entire round = 72 dc.
ROUND 7:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 6th dc work 2 dc = 84 dc.
ROUND 8:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 7th dc work 2 dc = 96 dc.
ROUND 9:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 8th dc work 2 dc = 108 dc.
ROUND 10:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 9th dc work 2 dc = 120 dc.
ROUND 11:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 10th dc work 2 dc = 132 dc.
Piece measures approx. 14 cm / 5½'' from the middle to edge.

SIZE 3/5 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 30 dc (= up towards neck), ch 22 loosely, skip the next 20 dc (= armhole), then work 1 dc in each of the next 62 dc (= down towards back), ch 22 loosely, skip the next 20 dc (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 30 dc but inc 2 dc evenly (= 32 dc), then work 22 dc in ch-row over armhole, work 1 dc in each of the next 62 dc but inc 2 dc evenly (= 64 dc), work 22 dc in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round = 140 dc.
ROUND 14 to 17:
Continue with dc – at the same time inc 10 dc evenly on every round. After 17th round there are 180 dc on round and piece measures approx. 21 cm / 8 1/4'' from the middle to edge. Fasten off.
Then work only over 60 dc in each side - i.e. the 30 dc at the top by neck and the 30 dc at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 6/8 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 11th dc work 2 dc = 144 dc.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 35 dc (= up towards neck), ch 23 loosely, skip the next 21 dc (= armhole), then work 1 dc in each of the next 67 dc (= down towards back), ch 23 loosely, skip the next 21 dc (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 35 dc but inc 3 dc evenly (= 38 dc), then work 23 dc in ch-row over armhole, work 1 dc in each of the next 67 dc but inc 3 dc evenly (= 70 dc), work 23 dc in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round = 154 dc.
ROUND 15 to 19:
Continue with dc – at the same time inc 10 dc evenly on every round. After 19th round there are 204 dc on round and piece measures approx. 23 cm / 9'' from the middle to edge. Fasten off.
Then work only over 68 dc in each side - i.e. the 34 dc at the top by neck and the 34 dc at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 9/10 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 11th dc work 2 dc = 144 dc.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 12th dc work 2 dc = 156 dc.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 38 dc (= up towards neck), ch 25 loosely, skip the next 23 dc (= armhole), then work 1 dc in each of the next 72 dc (= down towards back), ch 25 loosely, skip the next 23 dc (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 38 dc but inc 3 dc evenly (= 41 dc), then work 25 dc in ch-row over armhole, work 1 dc in each of the next 72 dc but inc 3 dc evenly (= 75 dc), work 25 dc in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round = 166 dc.
ROUND 16 to 21:
Continue with dc – at the same time inc 10 dc evenly on every round. After 21st round there are 226 dc on round and piece measures approx. 26 cm / 10 1/4'' from the middle to edge. Fasten off.
Then work only over 74 dc in each side - i.e. the 39 dc at the top by neck and the 39 dc at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE 11/12 YEARS:
ROUND 12:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 11th dc work 2 dc = 144 dc.
ROUND 13:
Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 12th dc work 2 dc = 156 dc.
ROUND 14: Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 13th dc work 2 dc = 168 dc.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 42 dc (= up towards neck), ch 27 loosely, skip the next 25 dc (= armhole), then work 1 dc in each of the next 76 dc (= down towards back), ch 27 loosely, skip the next 25 dc (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round.
ROUND 16:
Work 1 dc in each of the first 42 dc but inc 4 dc evenly (= 46 dc), then work 27 dc in ch-row over armhole, work 1 dc in each of the next 76 dc but inc 4 dc evenly (= 80 dc), work 27 dc in ch-row over armhole, and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc at beg of round = 180 dc.
ROUND 17 to 23:
Continue with dc – at the same time inc 10 dc evenly on every round. After 23rd round there are 250 dc on round and piece measures approx. 28 cm / 11'' from the middle to edge. Fasten off.
Then work only over 83 dc in each side - i.e. the 42 dc at the top by neck and the 42 dc at the bottom of back are no longer worked. Continue with explanation below front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES:
= 60-68-74-83 dc. Insert 1 marker after 18-20-22-24 sts in from each side (= 24-28-30-35 sts between markers). Then work stripes and dc back and forth while AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st at each marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 dc on row - inc alternately before and after each marker outwards) until a total of 6-6-8-8 rows have been worked back and forth and AT THE SAME TIME work according to DECREASE TIP 1
Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left front piece over 60-68-74-83 dc in right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from sleeve cap and down - see STRIPES - SLEEVE above.
Ch 24-27-28-34 LOOSELY with 1 strand of color 3250 + 1 strand of color 3125.
ROW 1: Turn and work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (the first 3 ch = 1 dc), then work 1 dc in every ch the entire row = 22-25-26-32 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 2: ch 3 + 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in every dc until last dc and 3 dc in last dc = 26-29-30-36 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 3: ch 3 + 1 dc in first dc, 1 dc in every dc until 1 dc remains and 2 dc in last dc. Turn piece.
Work 1-1-2-2 more rows as 3rd row = 30-33-36-42 dc.
NEXT ROW: ch 3 + 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in every dc until last dc and 3 dc in last dc = 34-37-40-46 dc. Turn piece.
Now work 1 dc in every dc until piece measures 7-8-9-10 cm / 2 3/4"-3"-3½"-4". Continue with dc while AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 dc in each side - SEE DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec every 8th-6th-5th-4th row 2-3-4-6 more times = 28-29-30-32 dc.
Continue with 1 dc in every dc until sleeve measures 38-41-45-48 cm / 15"-16"-17 3/4"-19". Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Work 1 round around the entire body as follows with 2 strands of color 0100: 1 sl st in first st, * ch 3, 1 dc in first ch (= 1 picot), skip 1 dc, fasten with 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first sl st. Sew sleeves in body - make sure that sleeve cap is sewn in at the top of armholes, i.e. where the distance is shortest.
Work an edge around the sleeves the same way as around body but with 2 strands of color 4088.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 01.10.2014
Under SIZE 11/12 YEARS and ROUND 14 (in every 13th, not in every 12th ): ROUND 14: Work 1 dc in every dc but in every 13th dc work 2 dc = 168 dc.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Children 24-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (114)

Vivian White 21.08.2019 - 14:09:

Is this pattern worked in double crochet or triple crochet, I am making this for my great granddaughter and she is a size 4 i am using the smallest pattern stitches.? Plus i am very confused with the left and right front instructions. It says to increase and also to decrease . I don't understand this.

DROPS Design 21.08.2019 kl. 15:14:

Dear Mrs White, make sure you are following the accurate language since UK- and US- have different crochet terms, in US-English you are working double crochets (= treble crochets in UK-English). On the front pieces, you will decrease at the beginning of every row (both from RS and WS) to shape the rounded edge, and at the same time, you will increase at the marker (in the middle of the row) to continue the rounded shape. Happy crocheting!

Jess 05.07.2019 - 18:40:

Bonjour je ne comprend pas très bien ce qui faut faire après le rang 19 (204brides) taille 6/8 ans. Crocheter ensuite au-dessus des 68 B de chaque côté seulement - c'est-à-dire que l'on ne travaille plus au-dessus des 34 B en haut côté encolure ni des 34 B en bas du dos. Continuer les devants

DROPS Design 08.07.2019 kl. 08:48:

Bonjour Jess, après le rang 19, vous ne crochetez plus en rond, mais vous allez faire l'arrondi de chaque devant que l'on voit dans le schéma. pliez la veste en double et repérez le milieu du haut et du bas de la veste, placez un marqueur en haut et en bas et délimitez ensuite les 34 brides du haut et du bas (17 b de chaque côté du marqueur), placez de nouveaux marqueurs ici: vous avez 68 brides entre ces nouveaux marqueurs et vous allez maintenant crocheter les devants séparément, entre ces nouveaux marqueurs. Bon crochet!

Shirley White 25.06.2019 - 23:47:

I have completed rounds 15-19 of the Princess Petal jacket. I am confused as to where/how I work only over 68 stitches in each side. How to I count this and where do I start from - did I miss something??? Is there a picture or tutorial?? Thank you.

DROPS Design 26.06.2019 kl. 06:37:

Dear Mrs White, fold your circle double so that armholes are above each other, mark the top and bottom stitch, lay the circle agan and count 17 sts from the middle stitches marked, add a marker to markr these 34 sts on top and bottom of circle = there are now 68 sts on each side for the front pieces, you will then work the front pieces separately over these 68 sts - see also chart. Happy crocheting!

Shirley White 29.05.2019 - 13:31:

Could you please explain what 3-3-4-4 round means in the Stripes-Body. I think I understand all the other instructions but this baffles me. Thank you.

DROPS Design 29.05.2019 kl. 13:59:

Hi Shirley. This refers to the number of rounds you work in each colour, before changing to the next colour. Each number correlates to 1 of the sizes: 3/5 - 6/8 - 9/10 - 11/12 years. After choosing your size, follow this number throughout the pattern. Eg; say you're working size 6/8 years: you follow the 2nd number, and work the stripe for 3 rounds before changing colour. happy crocheting

Petra An Den Boom 02.03.2019 - 14:03:

Super leuk vestje maar ik heb problemen met de beschrijving van de voorpanden, moet daar zoals ik t begrijp, meederen en minderen tegelijk ?? en hoeveel toeren stokjes in totaal ?

DROPS Design 05.03.2019 kl. 20:03:

Dag Petra,

Je meerdert en mindert inderdaad tegelijkertijd. Je meerdert bij de markeerdraden en het minderen doe je aan het eind van de toer (volgens tip voor het minderen-1). Dit tegelijkertijd meerderen en minderen wordt gedaan om de ronde vorm in de panden te krijgen.

Dia 27.01.2019 - 17:09:

Szia! Nem ertem az elejet. 18 szemet kéne leszámolnom és elhelyeznem a jelölőt. De mitől számoljam a 18 szemet? Köszönöm

DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 21:12:

Kedves Dia, a szemeket az eleje szélétől (vagyis onnan, ahonnan az elejéhez kijelölt 60-68-74-83 szemet is elkezdte kiszámolni. A jelölőkkel a szaporítások helyét határozzuk meg. Sikeres kézimunkázást!

Gwladys 24.09.2018 - 19:35:

Bonjour, Je ne comprend pas comment faire les devants. Merci pour vos explications.

DROPS Design 25.09.2018 kl. 09:58:

Bonjour Gwladys, les devants vont se crocheter en allers et retours sur une partie des mailles - celles du haut et du bas du cercle ne seront plus travaillées - cf schéma. On crochète ensuite sur les mailles indiquées pour la taille (60-83 b) et en même temps, on augmente 1 m à chacun des marqueurs: une fois avant les marqueurs, au rang suivant après les marqueurs et on répète ces 2 rangs pendant 6-8 rangs, en même temps, on diminue pour former l'arrondi du devant comme indiqué sous DIMINUTIONS-1. Bon crochet!

Lis Jensen 21.09.2018 - 16:48:

Jeg kan ikke forstå arbejdet med ærmerne det er ikke tydeligt nok for mig

Gwladys 19.09.2018 - 06:56:

Bonjour, Taille 6/8, tour 14, j'aurai voulu savoir s'il fallait crocheter les 23 brides dans les mailles chaînettes ou autour des mailles chaînettes? Merci

DROPS Design 19.09.2018 kl. 10:09:

Bonjour Gwladys, je crochèterai dans les mailles en l'air des emmanchures pour que les coutures des manches soient plus simples à faire par la suite. Bon crochet!

Christine Levant 02.09.2018 - 22:55:

Bonsoir!oui mes emmanchures sont faites!

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