DROPS / 146 / 13

Jude by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS bag with plaited shoulder strap in ”Paris”.

Tags: bags, floral, square,
DROPS design: Pattern no w-482
Yarn group C
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Measurements: approx. 22 x 24 cm / 8 3/4" x 9½"

Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
200 g color no 17, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 7.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
At beg of sc round, replace first sc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Replace first dc at beg of dc round with ch 3, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
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BAG:
Beg with a crochet flower in 2 layers and then continue outwards to 1 square.

CROCHET SQUARE WITH FLOWER:
See diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
With Paris ch 4 on hook size 4 mm / G/6 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work * 1 sc in ch-ring, ch 3 *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 3 ch-spaces.
ROUND 2: Work as follows in every ch-space: 1 sl st, 5 dc and 1 sl st = 3 leaves. Turn piece - work next round on the back of the flower.
ROUND 3: ch 1, work 1 sc around first sc from 1st round, ch 4, work 1 sc at the bottom in the middle of first leaf from 2nd round, * ch 4, work 1 sc around next sc from 1st round, ch 4, work 1 sc at the bottom in the middle of next leaf from 2nd round *, repeat from *-* until a total of 5 ch-spaces have been worked, finish with 4 ch and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 6 ch-spaces. Turn piece - work next round on the front of the flower.
ROUND 4: Work as follows in every ch-space: 1 sl st, 6 dc and 1 sl st = 6 leaves. Turn piece - work next round on the back of the flower.
ROUND 5: ch 1, 1 sc in the middle of bottom on 1st leaf, * ch 5, 1 sc in the middle of bottom on next leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 6 ch-spaces. Turn piece - work next round and every round onwards on the front of the flower.
ROUND 6: ch 1, 1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 7 dc in same ch-space, then work 8 dc in every ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 dc.
ROUND 7: ch 1, then work 1 sc in every dc from previous round, finish round with 1 sl st in first sc from beg of round = 48 sc.
ROUND 8: ch 4 (= 1 hdc + 2 ch), skip 1 dc, * 1 hdc in next dc, ch 2, skip 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round = 24 hdc with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 9: 1 sl st in first ch-space, * ch 5, 1 sl st in 5th ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space, ** ch 3, 1 sc in next ch-space **, repeat from **-** 3 times in total, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition with 1 sl st in sl st at beg of round (instead of 1 sc in next ch-space).
ROUND 10: 1 sl st in 5-ch-space, ch 3 (= 1 dc), in same ch-space work 4 dc + ch 3 + 5 dc (= 1 corner), * 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 2, skip 1 ch-space, in next 3-ch-space work 3 dc + ch 1 + 3 dc, ch 2, ** skip 1 ch-space, 1 sc in next ch-space, in 5-ch-space work 5 dc + ch 3 + 5 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 11: Work sl sts until ch-space in the middle of first dc-group in the corner. Ch 4 (= 1 sc + 3 ch), 1 sc in same ch-space, * ch 6, 1 dc in next sc, ch 5, 1 sc in ch in the middle of next dc-group, 5 ch **, 1 dc in next sc, ch 6, in ch-space in the middle of dc-group in the corner work 1 sc + ch 3 + 1 sc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.
ROUND 12: 1 sl st in ch-space in the corner, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc + ch 3 + 3 dc in same ch-space, * 6 dc in next ch-space, 4 dc in next ch-space, 4 dc in next ch-space, 6 dc in next ch-space **, in ch-space in the corner work 3 dc + ch 3 + 3 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 13: Work sl sts until ch-space in the corner, ch 1, 5 sc in same ch-space, then work 1 sc in every dc and 6 sc in ch-space in every corner the entire round, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 128 sc.
ROUND 14: ch 3 (= 1 dc), 1 dc in each of the next 2 sc, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sc (= corner), * skip 2 sc, (1 dc in each of the next 3 sc, skip 1 sc) **, repeat from (-) 6 times in total, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sc, ch 3, 1 dc in each of the next 3 sc (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 15: Work sl sts until ch-space in the corner, ch 3 (= 1 dc) 2 dc + ch 3 + 3 dc in same ch-space, then work 3 dc between every dc-group and 3 dc + ch 3 + 3 dc in ch-space in every corner, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

Now work back and forth only over one side of square as follows (= at the top of bag):
ROW 1: Work sl sts until the middle of ch-space in the corner, turn piece, ch 3 (= 1 dc), 2 dc in same ch-space, then work 3 dc between every dc-group from previous row and finish with 3 dc in ch-space in the corner, turn piece = 10 dc-groups.
ROW 2: ch 4 (= 1 dc + 1 ch), then work 3 dc between every dc-group until 9 dc-groups have been worked, finish row with ch 1 and 1 dc in last dc on row. Fasten off.

Work another square with flower. Place the 2 squares tog, WS against WS, and work tog along three of the sides as follows (i.e. do not work along the one side with 2 extra rows and work through both squares at the same time): 1 sl st in outermost st, ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st, * ch 1, 1 sc before next dc-group, ch 1, 1 sc in the middle dc in dc-group *, repeat from *-* along the 3 sides on bag (where square was made longer = opening at the top of bag).
Then work a finishing edge around the opening on bag with 1 sc in every st the entire round.

PLAITED SHOULDER STRAP:
Cut 18 strands Paris of 2 m/2.2 yds each and hold the strands tog. Make a loose knot approx. 30 cm / 12'' in from the end. Divide the long strands in 3 equal parts with 6 strands in each part and plait a classic plait until approx. 30 cm / 12'' strands remain, make a loose knot at the end. Plait another plait the same way (2 plaits = approx. 1 ball Paris). Undo the knots in each end, hold the 2 plaits tog. Take a new strand and wrap it tightly around these 2 plaits (approx. 30 cm / 12'' in from the end), fasten the strand tightly (the 2 plaits have now been locked).
Take a new strand and wrap it tightly around plaits the same way in the other end, fasten the strand tightly.
Sew the 2 plaits on the bag in each side of bag, fasten tightly.
Cut the yarn ends to desired length.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= 1 ch
= 1 sl st
= 1 sc
= 1 dc
= 1 hdc
= shows where the st is worked around either the sc from 1st round or at the bottom of the leaf on previous round - worked from the back of flower

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 146-13) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (39)

Rayene 29.06.2020 - 01:42:

Hi. I made just crocheted the bag and think I will really like it. I would like to fine some cute accessories like you did for the tassels and the also end of shoulder cord strap metal crimp. I'm wondering if you could tell me what size the rondel was on the tassels (round ring)? And what size the crimp was that is on the cord strap just above the tassels? Thank you very much :)

DROPS Design 29.06.2020 kl. 09:09:

Dear Rayene, there is no tassel there, it's only the end of the both braids made (= 1 braid = 18 strands Paris) - read more under PLAITED SHOULDER STRAP. Happy crocheting!

Joyce Roche 16.02.2020 - 22:24:

Round #7 is SC ALL AROUND. Then #8 begins with HDC in next DC and around. Very confusing for a beginner. What DC? DCs are in round #6.

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 08:58:

Dear Mrs Roche, pattern will be edited, you should work in the stitches from previous round (= sc and not dc). Thanks for your feedback. Happy crocheting!

Joyce Roche 15.02.2020 - 18:55:

On row 14, just after finishing first corner, it says skip 2 sc, (1dc in each of next 3 sc, skip 1 sc.) Shouldn't there be a chain 1 when you skip a sc? otherwise it is bunching up. Directions have been easy to follow but this part doesn't make sense. Thank you for your help.

DROPS Design 17.02.2020 kl. 08:51:

Dear Mrs Roche, there is no chain stitch between each group of 3 dc - just make sure your stitches are wide enough, on next round (= last round on square), you will crochet 3 dc between each 3-dc-group from round 14. But feel free to crochet 1 chain stitch there if it helps you. Happy crocheting!

Fanny Navarro 20.10.2019 - 07:57:

Soy principiante gracias por sus enseñanzas seria de gran ayuda el tutorial

Lucie 01.08.2019 - 07:04:

Skvělý návod, děkuji - taška vypadá moc hezky :-)

Diane Bureau 18.07.2019 - 16:08:

Hi, I have just finished making this beautiful bag and now I am trying to figure out how to do the strap. I have no idea what a plait braid is so I went to youtube to find some answers but can't seem to find one. So I started using another flat braid technique, which I would be ok with but your instructions tell you to cut 18 strands, divide into 3 sections with 6 strands a piece. Then it tells you to make two plait braids, what am I supposed to do with the other 6 strands? 6 strands left.

DROPS Design 19.07.2019 kl. 07:24:

Dear Mrs Bureau, you are making a total of 2 plaits, with each plait made of 18 strands (3 sections of 6 threads). Happy crocheting!

Stephanie Powell 05.07.2019 - 17:23:

Can I substitute Sugar n Cream yarn for the yarn listed in the pattern?

DROPS Design 07.07.2019 kl. 17:17:

Dear Stephanie, the DROPS patterns are written and made available free to support the DROPS yarns. I hope you will understand that we cannot help you with substitutions of yarns made by other companies. However, you should always make a swatch, check gauge and make necessary changes accordingly. Happy Crafting!

Barbara 23.06.2019 - 16:03:

Can you tell me please the actual shade of the pink bag.

DROPS Design 23.06.2019 kl. 16:46:

Dear Barbara, in fact I am not sure which "pink" do you mean - this bag is all crochet with off white. But you can choose your favorite colour from actual color shade of DROPS Paris - here . Happy crocheting!

Diane Garwood 08.06.2019 - 13:15:

On pattern Jude the bag states crochet in two layers. Does this mean two strands of yarn. The yarn is doubled?

DROPS Design 08.06.2019 kl. 20:09:

Dear Diane, the yarn is not doubled, you work with just one strand. Two layers only means two layers of leaves in central flower. Happy crocheting!

Ilana Siaxate 16.06.2018 - 07:20:

Can I make this pattern to sell online for charity?

DROPS Design 18.06.2018 kl. 08:03:

Dear Mrs Siaxate, you will find all relevant informations under our copyright at the very bottom of the page. Happy crocheting!

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