DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.90 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 146-13
DROPS design: Pattern no w-482
Yarn group C
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Measurements: approx. 22 x 24 cm
Materials:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
200 g colour no 17, off white

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 4 mm

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Paris
DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 0.90 € /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.60€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favourites!
Valid until 12.04.2024

Pattern instructions

CROCHET INFO:
At beg of dc round, replace first dc with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.
Replace first tr at beg of tr round with 3 ch, finish the round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
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BAG:
Beg with a crochet flower in 2 layers and then continue outwards to 1 square.

CROCHET SQUARE WITH FLOWER:
See diagram A.1, i.e. work as follows:
Work 4 ch on hook size 4 mm with Paris and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work * 1 dc in ch-ring, 3 ch *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times and finish with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 3 ch-loops.
ROUND 2: Work as follows in every ch-loop: 1 sl st, 5 tr and 1 sl st = 3 leaves. Turn piece - work next round on the back of the flower.
ROUND 3: 1 ch, work 1 dc around first dc from 1st round, 4 ch, work 1 dc at the bottom in the middle of first leaf from 2nd round, * 4 ch, work 1 dc around next dc from 1st round, 4 ch, work 1 dc at the bottom in the middle of next leaf from 2nd round *, repeat from *-* until a total of 5 ch-loops have been worked, finish with 4 ch and 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 6 ch-loops. Turn piece - work next round on the front of the flower.
ROUND 4: Work as follows in every ch-loop: 1 sl st, 6 tr and 1 sl st = 6 leaves. Turn piece - work next round on the back of the flower.
ROUND 5: 1 ch, 1 dc in the middle of bottom on 1st leaf, * 5 ch, 1 dc in the middle of bottom on next leaf *, repeat from *-* a total of 5 times and finish with 5 ch and 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 6 ch-loops. Turn piece - work next round and every round onwards on the front of the flower.
ROUND 6: 1 ch, 1 sl st in first ch-loop, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 7 tr in same ch-loop, then work 8 tr in every ch-loop, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 tr.
ROUND 7: 1 ch, then work 1 dc in every tr from previous round, finish round with 1 sl st in first dc from beg of round = 48 dc.
ROUND 8: 4 ch (= 1 htr + 2 ch), skip 1 dc, * 1 htr in next dc, 2 ch, skip 1 dc*, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round = 24 htr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 9: 1 sl st in first ch-loop, * 5 ch, 1 sl st in 5th ch from hook, 1 dc in next ch-loop, 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop, ** 3 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop **, repeat from **-** 3 times in total, 2 ch, 1 dc in next ch-loop *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition with 1 sl st in sl st at beg of round (instead of 1 dc in next ch-loop).
ROUND 10: 1 sl st in 5-ch-loop, 3 ch (= 1 tr), in same ch-loop work 4 tr + 3 ch + 5 tr (= 1 corner), * 1 dc in next ch-loop, 2 ch, skip 1 ch-loop, in next 3-ch-loop work 3 tr + 1 ch + 3 tr, 2 ch, ** skip 1 ch-loop, 1 dc in next ch-loop, in 5-ch-loop work 5 tr + 3 ch + 5 tr *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 11: Work sl sts until ch-loop in the middle of first tr-group in the corner. Work 4 ch (= 1 dc + 3 ch), 1 dc in same ch-loop, * 6 ch, 1 tr in next dc, 5 ch, 1 dc in ch in the middle of next tr-group, 5 ch **, 1 tr in next dc, 6 ch, in ch-loop in the middle of tr-group in the corner work 1 dc + 3 ch + 1 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 1st ch from beg of round.
ROUND 12: 1 sl st in ch-loop in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in same ch-loop, * 6 tr in next ch-loop, 4 tr in next ch-loop, 4 tr in next ch-loop, 6 tr in next ch-loop **, in ch-loop in the corner work 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 13: Work sl sts until ch-loop in the corner, 1 ch, 5 dc in same ch-loop, then work 1 dc in every tr and 6 dc in ch-loop in every corner the entire round, finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round = 128 dc.
ROUND 14: 3 ch (= 1 tr), 1 tr in each of the next 2 dc, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc (= corner), * skip 2 dc, (1 tr in each of the next 3 dc, skip 1 dc) **, repeat from (-) 6 times in total, 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc, 3 ch, 1 tr in each of the next 3 dc (= corner) *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total but finish last repetition after **, then work 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 15: Work sl sts until ch-loop in the corner, 3 ch (= 1 tr) 2 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in same ch-loop, then work 3 tr between every tr-group and 3 tr + 3 ch + 3 tr in ch-loop in every corner, finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Now work back and forth only over one side of square as follows (= at the top of bag):
ROW 1: Work sl sts until the middle of ch-loop in the corner, turn piece, 3 ch (= 1 tr), 2 tr in same ch-loop, then work 3 tr between every tr-group from previous row and finish with 3 tr in ch-loop in the corner, turn piece = 10 tr-groups.
ROW 2: 4 ch (= 1 tr + 1 ch), then work 3 tr between every tr-group until 9 tr-groups have been worked, finish row with 1 ch and 1 tr in last tr on row. Cut and fasten the thread.

Work another square with flower. Place the 2 squares tog, WS against WS, and work tog along three of the sides as follows (i.e. do not work along the one side with 2 extra rows and work through both squares at the same time): 1 sl st in outermost st, 1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 dc in next st, * 1 ch, 1 dc before next tr-group, 1 ch, 1 dc in the middle tr in tr-group *, repeat from *-* along the 3 sides on bag (where square was made longer = opening at the top of bag).
Then work a finishing edge around the opening on bag with 1 dc in every st the entire round.

PLAITED SHOULDER STRAP:
Cut 18 threads Paris of 2 m each and place the threads tog. Make a loose knot approx. 30 cm in from the end. Divide the long threads in 3 equal parts with 6 threads in each part and plait a classic plait until approx. 30 cm thread remain, make a loose knot at the end. Plait another plait the same way (2 plaits = approx. 1 ball Paris). Undo the knots in each end, place the 2 plaits tog. Take a new thread and wrap it tightly around these 2 plaits (approx. 30 cm in from the end), fasten the thread tightly (the 2 plaits have now been locked).
Take a new thread and wrap it tightly around plaits the same way in the other end, fasten the threads tightly.
Sew the 2 plaits on the bag in each side of bag, fasten tightly. Or cut the thread ends to desired length.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 30.01.2023
ROUND 8: 4 ch (= 1 htr + 2 ch), skip 1 dc, * 1 htr in next dc, 2 ch, skip 1 dc*, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round = 24 htr with 2 ch between each.

Diagram

symbols = 1 ch
symbols = 1 sl st
symbols = 1 dc
symbols = 1 tr
symbols = 1 htr
symbols = shows where the st is worked around either the dc from 1st round or at the bottom of the leaf on previous round - worked from the back of flower
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (46)

country flag Marisol wrote:

Hola el tutorial del bolso no lo encuentro Me podrías decir donde lo busco Muchas gracias

22.03.2024 - 17:23

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Marisol, el patrón está explicado en forma de instrucciones escritas + diagramas. No hay videos tutoriales de este bolso paso a paso. Puedes ver los videos relevantes para las técnicas usadas en este patrón en el apartado videos en la parte superior del patrón.

24.03.2024 - 23:37

country flag Tracey wrote:

Is there a youtube video for this bag? I find it so much easier than reading a pattern. Thanks Tracey

24.06.2023 - 02:48

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Tracey, you can find all relevant videos to help you make this bag in a section below the charts. Currently we have no step-by-step video of this bag. Happy crochetting!

25.06.2023 - 13:51

country flag Yasmin wrote:

Thankful for the chart because the written instructions didn't translate well at all. Round 9 for eg., *ch 5, 1 sl st in 5th ch from hook, 1 sc in next ch-space, ch 2, 1 sc in next ch-space, ** the chart shows the SC in the same ch sp. Not the next.

19.01.2023 - 23:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Yasmin, the sc are each worked in the next ch-spaces, but to get the "loop", you crochet 5 chains, 1 slip stitch in the first chain, so that you get 4 "loops", one at each corner, where you wil crochet (5 dc, 3 ch, 5 dc) around on next round - and there should be 6 sc and 5 ch-spaces between each of these ch-loops. Happy crocheting!

20.01.2023 - 08:40

country flag Elena wrote:

Perchè nel giro 8 dice di saltare una ma quando nel giro precedente sono state lavorate solo mb? Il modello italiano secondo latraduzione di google non corrisponde a quello norvegese

08.11.2022 - 16:12

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Elena, abbiamo inoltrato la sua segnalazione al settore design: se ci dovessero essere delle correzioni le troverà direttamente online. Buon lavoro!

28.12.2022 - 19:49

country flag Grace Lovely wrote:

THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THE BEAUTIFUL PATTERNS ,MIGHT HELP WITH SOME OF THEM THANK YOU AGAIN

26.09.2022 - 04:22

country flag Toñi wrote:

Hola, ¿Seria posible que para hacer la flor central hubiera un video tutorial? Gracias.

03.07.2022 - 17:59

country flag Stefanie Conrads wrote:

Hallo gibt es ein Video wie man die Rose Häkelt ? Lg

15.03.2021 - 14:38

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Conrads, es gibt für dieses Modell nur die schriftliche Anleitung und das Diagram. Sicher kann Ihnen diese Lektion helfen. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!

15.03.2021 - 15:18

country flag Rayene wrote:

Hi. I made just crocheted the bag and think I will really like it. I would like to fine some cute accessories like you did for the tassels and the also end of shoulder cord strap metal crimp. I'm wondering if you could tell me what size the rondel was on the tassels (round ring)? And what size the crimp was that is on the cord strap just above the tassels? Thank you very much :)

29.06.2020 - 01:42

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Rayene, there is no tassel there, it's only the end of the both braids made (= 1 braid = 18 strands Paris) - read more under PLAITED SHOULDER STRAP. Happy crocheting!

29.06.2020 - 09:09

country flag Joyce Roche wrote:

Round #7 is SC ALL AROUND. Then #8 begins with HDC in next DC and around. Very confusing for a beginner. What DC? DCs are in round #6.

16.02.2020 - 22:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Roche, pattern will be edited, you should work in the stitches from previous round (= sc and not dc). Thanks for your feedback. Happy crocheting!

17.02.2020 - 08:58

country flag Joyce Roche wrote:

On row 14, just after finishing first corner, it says skip 2 sc, (1dc in each of next 3 sc, skip 1 sc.) Shouldn't there be a chain 1 when you skip a sc? otherwise it is bunching up. Directions have been easy to follow but this part doesn't make sense. Thank you for your help.

15.02.2020 - 18:55

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Roche, there is no chain stitch between each group of 3 dc - just make sure your stitches are wide enough, on next round (= last round on square), you will crochet 3 dc between each 3-dc-group from round 14. But feel free to crochet 1 chain stitch there if it helps you. Happy crocheting!

17.02.2020 - 08:51