DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 148-33
DROPS design: Pattern no fa-226
Yarn group A
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Measurements:
Width at the top: approx. 180 cm / 71''
Length on the middle: approx. 65 cm / 25½''

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
300 g color no 623, rose mist

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 or 60 cm / 16" and 24") SIZE 4 mm/US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 40 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
2 DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 3.5 mm / US 4 - for edges in garter st.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale

SAVE 30% on 6 cotton favorites!
Valid until 04.12.2024

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
SHAWL:
The shawl consists of several fans knitted together along the way. Beg at the bottom of shawl with fan 1 – see diagram A.1. Then work fan 2 as explained below. Then work fan 3 etc.

FAN 1:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 61 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Fabel and work as follows:
ROW 1 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= WS): K all sts.
ROW 3: K 2 tog, K 9, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 6 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, K 3, K 2 tog = 49 sts.
ROW 4-7: K all sts.
ROW 8 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts.
ROW 9-10: K all sts.
ROW 11: K 2 tog, K 7, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 4 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, K 3, K 2 tog = 37 sts.
ROW 12-15: K all sts.
ROW 16 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 37 sts.
ROW 17-18: K all sts.
ROW 19: K 2 tog, K 5, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 7 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5, K 2 tog = 29 sts.
ROW 20-26: K all sts.
ROW 27: K 2 tog, K 3, * slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5 *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 3, K 2 tog = 21 sts.
ROW 28-29: K all sts.
ROW 30 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 21 sts.
ROW 31-34: K all sts.
ROW 35: K 2 tog, K 7, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 7, K 2 tog = 17 sts.
ROW 36-42: K all sts.
ROW 43: K 2 tog, K 5, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 5, K 2 tog = 13 sts.
ROW 44-48: K all sts.
ROW 49: K 2 tog, K 3, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 3, K 2 tog = 9 sts.
ROW 50-54: K all sts.
ROW 55: K 2 tog, K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 1, K 2 tog = 5 sts.
ROW 56-58: K all sts.
ROW 59: K 1, slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso, K 1 = 3 sts.
ROW 60: K all sts.
ROW 61: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso = 1 st.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining st and fasten.

FAN 2:
Cast on 30 sts on needle, in addition pick up 31 sts along the right edge on FAN 1 (seen from RS) – i.e. pick up 1 st in every ridge and approx. 1 st in every row with holes = 61 sts on row.
Then work as FAN 1 but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).

FAN 3:
Pick up 31 sts along the left edge on FAN 1 (seen from RS), then cast on 30 new sts at the end of row = 61 sts. Then work as FAN 1 but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).

FAN 4:
Work as FAN 2.

FAN 5:
Pick up 30 sts along the left edge on FAN 2 (seen from RS), pick up 1 st at the tip at the top on FAN 1 and pick up 30 sts along the right edge on FAN 3 = 61 sts. Then work as FAN 1 but from 2nd row (i.e. beg with K from WS).

FAN 6:
Work as FAN 3.

First, second and third row with fans have been worked. Continue like this upwards - see diagram A.1 for correct order. When a total of 36 fans have been worked, work half circles between every fan so that the edge at the top of shawl is straight.

HALF CIRCLE BETWEEN EVERY FAN:
Pick up from RS 61 sts along the edge between 2 fans – i.e. pick up 1 st in every ridge and approx. 1 st in every row with holes + 1 st between two fans at the tip at the top of fan from the row below.
Then work as follows:

ROW 1 (= WS): K all sts.
ROW 2 (= RS): K all sts.
ROW 3: K all sts.
ROW 4: * K 3, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* until 1 st remains and finish with K 1 = 49 sts.
ROW 5: K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts.
ROW 6: K all sts.
ROW 7 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts.
ROW 8-14: K all sts.
ROW 15 (= WS): K 1, * 1 YO, P 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 49 sts.
ROW 16-17: K all sts.
ROW 18: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 25 sts.
ROW 19-25: K all sts.
ROW 26: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 13 sts.
ROW 27: K all sts.
ROW 28: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 7 sts.
ROW 29: K all sts.
ROW 30: K all sts tog 2 by 2 until 1 st remains, finish with K 1 = 4 sts.
ROW 31: K all sts.
ROW 32: Slip 1 st as if to K, K 3 tog and psso = 1 st.
Cut the yarn and pull it through the remaining st, tighten tog and fasten.

HALF CIRCLE ON THE RIGHT EDGE OF SHAWL (seen from RS):
Cast on 30 sts on needle, in addition pick up 31 sts along the right edge on FAN 29 (seen from RS) = 61 sts on row.
Then work HALF CIRCLE BETWEEN EVERY FAN.

HALF CIRCLE ON THE LEFT EDGE OF SHAWL (seen from RS):
Pick up 31 sts along the left edge on FAN 36 (seen from RS), and cast on 30 new sts at the end of row = 61 sts. Then work HALF CIRCLE BETWEEN EVERY FAN.

EDGE IN GARTER ST AT THE TOP OF SHAWL:
Cast on 4 sts on 1 double pointed needle size 3.5 mm / US 4. K 1 row (= RS). Work next row as follows from WS: * Pick up the outermost st in garter ridge in the left side of shawl (with WS towards you), work first st on left needle, pass the new st over, K the rest of row, turn piece, K back over the 4 sts, turn piece *, repeat these 2 rows from *-* until 1 st has been picked up in approx. every st in garter ridges along the entire edge at the top of shawl.
Cut and fasten yarn tails.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (39)

country flag Sandra Vom Schwarzwaldwolloutlet, Schömberg wrote:

Ich habe das Tuch in einer unifarbenen Wolle nachgestrickt und habe Glasperlchen eingearbeitet. Es ist wunderschön geworden. Allerdings habe ich den Rand oben nicht laut Anleitung kraus rechts gestrickt, sondern nur mit zwei simplen Reihen gehäkelter, fester Maschen verstärkt. In Uni kommt der kraus rechts gestrickte Rand nicht so gut, wie im Farbverlauf.

29.08.2023 - 23:07

country flag Hanna wrote:

Nie rozumiem w jaki sposób zakończyć górę szala. 4 oczka nabrać na szalu? I te 4 o przerobić i znów nabrać? Proszę o wyjaśnienie.

03.05.2023 - 14:46

DROPS Design answered:

Witaj Haniu, na górze będzie brzeg składający się z 4 oczek (coś w stylu obszycia na przodzie swetra, taka plisa biegnąca na całej długości szala), który będziesz stopniowo dołączać wzdłuż góry szala następująco: *przerabiasz 4 oczka brzegu, a na lewej stronie robótki, nabierasz oczko na górze szala (na skrajnym boku), przerabiasz 1-sze oczko z lewego drutu i przekładasz nowe oczko ponad przerobionym oczkiem, dalsze oczka przerabiasz na prawo, obracasz*, itd. Podobna technika jest użyta TUTAJ, tylko tu na łączeniu szala z brzegiem przerabia się 3 oczka razem. Pozdrawiamy!

04.05.2023 - 08:47

country flag Rosetta Buttacavoli wrote:

Posso lavorare questo scialle con i ferri dritti?

05.10.2021 - 15:53

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Rosetta, lo scialle è lavorato in piano e può essere lavorato anche con i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

07.10.2021 - 00:20

country flag Marilyn Moss wrote:

Hi I have just finished the soft mermaid shaw but I am a bit confused on how to finish the top off. Could you please help. The confusion comes from picking up a stitch which once worked is on the right needle not the left ? This doesn’t make sense to me.

24.10.2018 - 13:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Moss, you pick up 1 st from the edge of shawl (= 1 st on right needle), then knit 1 stitch from the edge (from left needle) = there is now 2 sts on the right needle, pass the first of these 2 sts over the last st worked = 1 stitch remains on the right needle, work remaining stitches on row, turn and work these 4 sts. Repeat these 2 rows. Happy knitting!

24.10.2018 - 15:55

country flag GRANGER wrote:

Bonjour,j'ai bien réalisé l'éventail 1 sans problème ensuite j'ai fait l'éventail 2 mais en relevant les mailles que sur la moitié du bord , côté droit , car il m'a paru impossible de relever que mailles sur tout le bord; ça doit tirer , non, donc là, je suis dans l'impasse je vais défaire l'éventail 2 en attendant votre réponse impossible de trouver un tuto sur ce sujet, ce serait bien de le mettre car pas facile de comprendre ce montage : mille merci

12.07.2016 - 22:53

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Granger, cette vidéo montre comment relever les mailles entre 2 éventails, pour le 2ème du châle, montez 30 m et relevez 31 mm le long du côté droit de l'éventail 1 comme dans la vidéo. Bon tricot!

13.07.2016 - 09:24

country flag Maren wrote:

Hallo liebes Team, es heißt z.b. in Reihe 4. - 7. alle Maschen rechts...heißt das kraus rechts oder glatt rechts??? Vielen Dank für die Antwort

04.02.2015 - 10:24

DROPS Design answered:

Damit ist immer kraus rechts gemeint, Sie stricken jede R jeweils rechts. Viel Spaß beim Stricken dieses schönen Tuchs!

04.02.2015 - 15:52

Catherine Mireault wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprend pas comment faire la bordure du haut, merci, j'attends vos explications afin de terminer mon tricot

14.09.2014 - 20:33

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Mireault, la bordure du haut du châle est rattachée au châle au début de chaque rang sur l'envers, on relève 1 m dans le bord du châle, on tricote 1 m de la bordure et on passe la m relevée par-dessus la m tricotée, on tricote les 3 m restantes de la bordure, 1 rang sur l'endroit puis on relève de nouveau 1 m dans le bord du châle comme avant. Bon tricot!

15.09.2014 - 10:02

country flag Mª Josefa Ros wrote:

Estoy terminando de hacerlo, pero en tonos azules, con el color 604. Muy divertido de hacer, y me está quedando precioso! ¡MIL GRACIAS!

03.08.2014 - 11:32

country flag Regal S wrote:

Bonjour,je ne comprends pas les explications : pourquoi une aiguille circulaire pour un tricot à plat? Le modele est-il tout à l'endroit ou en point mousse . Auriez -vous un diagramme pour m'aider à la confection de ce modele je vous remercie ,dans l'attente d'une reponse cdt S Regal

15.02.2014 - 16:00

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Regal, on tricote ici en allers et retours sur aig. circ. pour avoir plus de place pour les mailles. Chaque éventail se tricote au point mousse (= à l'end) avec quelques rangs ajourés. Suivez attentivement les indications pour chaque rang pour obtenir le bon motif. Bon tricot!

17.02.2014 - 09:15

country flag Mahler wrote:

Hallo, das ist ein tolles Muster. Vielen Dank für die Übersetzung. Mit freundlichen Grüßen Mahler

08.09.2013 - 17:52