DROPS Big Fabel
DROPS Big Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
find alternatives
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Super Sale
DROPS Children 23-55
DROPS design: Pattern no bf-005-bn
Yarn group C
Size: 3/5 - 6/9 - 10/12 years
To fit head circumference: 48/50 - 50/52 - 52/54 cm /
19"/19¾"- 19¾"/20½" - 20½"/21¼"

DROPS BIG FABEL from Garnstudio
200 g for all sizes in color no 906, wild berries
Or use:
DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150 g for all sizes in colour no 671, blue/brown/mustard

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'' with 1 tread Big Fabel og 2 threads Fabel.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 4.5 mm / US 7 - for garter st.

Size: 3/5 – 6/9 – 10/14 years

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g color no 52, dark turquoise

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm / US 7 – for rib


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Big Fabel
DROPS Big Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
find alternatives
DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 1.80 $ /50g

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round on circular needle/double pointed needles):
* K 1 round and P 1 round *, repeat from *-*.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K sts on all rows.

The hat is worked top down. Cast on 6-6-8 sts and distribute them on 3 double pointed needles size 5 mm / US 8 with with 1 tread Big Fabel og 2 threads Fabel, let the thread end be approx. 10 cm / 4'' for assembly. K 2 sts in every st the entire round = 12-12-16 sts.
Distribute sts on 4 double pointed needles. K 1 round, insert 6-6-8 markers in the piece, 2 sts apart.
Then work in stockinette st while AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round inc by K 2 in the first st after every marker (= 6-6-8 sts inc). Repeat inc every 2nd-2nd-3rd round 9-10-8 more times = 72-78-88 sts (= 12-13-11 sts between every marker).
Switch to circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and now continue in GARTER ST in the round - see explanation above, until piece measures 12-13-13 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5 1/8" from last inc. Finish after 1 P round. Work next round as follows: K 25-28-32, bind off the next 21-23-24 sts (= mid front) and K the remaining 26-27-32 sts, beg of round = mid back.
Cut the thread, now work back and forth over the 51-55-64 sts on needle - beg with 1 K row from WS. On next row (= RS) K tog the first 2 sts and K tog the last 2 sts = 49-53-62 sts remain. K 1 row from WS.
Work next row as follows from RS: K 16-17-21 sts (= ear flap), and slip these sts on a stitch holder, bind off the next 17-19-20 sts (= mid back) and K the remaining 16-17-21 sts (= ear flap). Insert a marker.
Then work in garter st back and forth over ear flap until ear flap measures approx. 2-2-2.5 cm / 3/4"-3/4"-1" from marker. Dec 1 st inside 1 edge st in each side by K 2 tog, repeat every 4th row 2-2-2 more times and then every other row 3-3-4 times = 4-5-5 sts remain, ear flap measures approx. 7-7-8 cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-3".
Loosely bind off and fasten the thread. Work the other ear flap the same way.
Use a needle and baste the thread end at the top of hat up and down through the opening, tighten tog and fasten.

Make 1 pompom with Big Fabel or Fabel with an approx. diameter of 8 cm / 3''. Sew the pompom on the top of the hat.

Cast on at the bottom of front piece, bind off at the bottom of back piece, the collar is worked at the end.

Worked back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 38-41-44 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with Alaska. Work 4 rows in garter st, continue in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 7-9-10 cm / 2 3/4"-3½"-4", bind off the middle 12-15-16 sts for neck.
Finish each shoulder piece separately.

1st shoulder piece: = 13-13-14 sts.
Continue in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st towards the shoulder - at the same time bind off towards the neck in beg of every row from neck: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 6-6-7 sts remain on shoulder. When piece measures 11-13-15 cm / 4½"-5"-6", insert a marker (= mid on top of shoulder) - now measures piece from here. On next row cast on 2 new sts towards the neck, then slip sts on a stitch holder.

2nd shoulder piece: As 1st shoulder piece.

Slip sts from one shoulder back on needle, cast on 22-25-26 sts and slip sts from the other shoulder on to needle = 38-41-44 sts. Continue in stockinette st with 2 sts in garter st in each side.
When piece measures 10-12-14 cm / 4"-4 3/4"-5½", work 4 rows in garter st over all sts before binding off.

Pick up approx. 60 to 68 sts around the neck on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm / US 7. P 1 round and K 1 round, continue in rib = K 1/P 1.
When neck measures approx. 7-8-9 cm / 2 3/4"-3"-3½", bind off with K over K and P over P.
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (11)

country flag Charlotte Ayah wrote:

"...sedan sätts m på 1 tråd. 2:a axeldelen: Sticka som 1:a axeldelen." Tråden man stickar med är på andra sidan. Hur ska man börja sticka andra axel när tråden är på 1a axeln?

26.03.2024 - 15:07

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte, da bliver du nødt til at klippe tråde, så du kan strikke den anden axeln :)

05.04.2024 - 09:00

country flag Helene wrote:

Vos grandeurs d aiguille sont en cm ou en us

19.02.2019 - 18:27

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Hélène, les tailles d'aiguilles dans les modèles français sont toujours indiquées en mm, pour connaître l'équivalent en US, vous pouvez changer la langue du modèle en US-anglais, ou bien consulter le tableau des équivalences ici. Bon tricot!

20.02.2019 - 09:22

country flag Simona wrote:

Ne ho appena finito uno e subito me ne hanno ordinato un altro! Modello semplice da realizzare e di grande effetto. L'unica variante...non essendo capace di lavorare con i ferri circolari, ho utilizzato i ferri classici, chiudendo poi il cappello sul retro.

03.01.2015 - 14:31

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Jeg fandt ud af at den ville passe i den mindste størrelse :) Men, jeg forstår ikke hvorfor man skal købe 200 g. af big fabel(2 nøgler) til huen i alle størrelser. Jeg har nu strikket hele huen og lavet ponpom og har et helt nøgle tilbage(strikkefastheden passer) - kan det virkelig passe at man så skal købe 200 g. til alle størrelser?

27.10.2014 - 09:11

country flag Charlotte wrote:

Dette er en supersød model, men jeg vil gerne lave den til en på 2 år - kan i ikke hjælpe mig med hvor mange masker, ud/indtagninger og cm jeg i så fald skal bruge?

17.10.2014 - 20:41

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Charlotte. Vi kan desvaerre ikke hjaelpe dig med individuelle tilpasninger paa de gratis modeller. Du kan pröve dig frem eller spörg i din strikkebutik.

21.10.2014 - 16:12

country flag Murielle wrote:

Bonjour, Je souhaiterais tricoter ce modèle mais en doublant un fil FABEL. Deux fils FABEL équivalent-ils à un fil BIG FABEL ? Merci pour votre réponse

21.11.2013 - 17:10

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Murielle, effectivement 2 groupes fils A = 1 groupe fil C, donc 2 fils Fabel = 1 fil Big Fabel. N'oubliez pas de bien faire votre échantillon. Bon tricot!

21.11.2013 - 17:37

Yanella wrote:

Yes, as it turns out I can count, but not read:) Yes, starting with 38 sts (and not 32) it works fine! Thank you!

29.10.2013 - 17:12

country flag Yanella wrote:

Reading the swedish version, and it doesn´t ad up, not in the smallest size anyway. How can you start with 32 s, and then at 7 cm cast off 12 in the middle…and then have 13 s on each side? I am left with 10 on each side… did I miss something?

26.10.2013 - 13:10

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Yanella, pattern has been checked and it looks correct, just not sure where you found 32 sts. After working in the round, you continue back and forth with dec, then you work each ear flap separately. Happy knitting!

29.10.2013 - 11:54

country flag Inge wrote:

Is dit gemakkelijk te breien op een machine?

04.10.2013 - 12:01

DROPS Design answered:

Hoi Inge. We maken uitsluitend patronen voor het handbreien. Ik heb geen ervaring met breimachines, dus ik kan u hiermee helaas niet mee helpen.

07.10.2013 - 21:16

country flag Violette B. wrote:

Bonjour, J'ai déjà réalisé une partie du plastron, le devant et le dos. Je vais "attaquer" le col. Puis-je le tricoter avec une aiguille circulaire au lieu d'aiguilles doubles-pointes (que je n'ai pas) ? Merci.

03.10.2013 - 11:20

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Violette B., vous pouvez tout à fait utiliser une aiguille circulaire et si vous n'avez qu'une grande, utilisez la technique du magic loop (cf vidéo ci-dessous), en plaçant la moitié des mailles relevées sur chaque côté de l'aiguille. Bon tricot!

03.10.2013 - 13:34