DROPS / 143 / 14

Anny by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS tunic with short sleeves, round yoke and pattern in ”Nepal”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no NE-087
Yarn group C
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 78-88-96-106-112-128 cm /
30 3/4"-34½"-37 3/4"-41 3/4"-44"-50½"
Full length: 70-72-74-76-78-80 cm /
27½''-28 3/8''-29 1/8''-30''-30¾''-31½

DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
Color no 0618, camel:
400-450-500-550-600-650 g
Color no 0206, light beige:
150 g for all sizes
Color no 3720, medium pink:
50 g for all sizes

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 5 mm / US 8 - or size needed to get 17 sts x 22 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm / 16'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 – for rib.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
See diagrams A-1 to A-4 – the diagrams show 1 repetition of the pattern. Diagrams A-2 to A-4 are worked in stockinette st.

Worked in the round on circular needle.
LOOSELY cast on 176-192-208-224-240-256 sts on circular needle size 5 mm / US 8 with camel (it is important to cast on loosely to avoid a tight cast on edge). P 1 round, K 1 round and P 1 round. Continue with diagram A-1 (= 11-12-13-14-15-16 repetitions on the round).
When A-1 has been worked, 154-168-182-196-210-224 sts remain on needle.
Continue in stockinette st - AT THE SAME TIME insert a marker at beg of round and a marker after 77-84-91-98-105-112 sts (these marks the sides). REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
When piece measures 15 cm / 6'', dec 1 st on each side of each marker, repeat dec every 6-6-6-8-12-19 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"-3 1/8"-4 3/4"-7½" 4-4-4-3-2-1 more time = 134-148-162-180-198-216 sts.
When piece measures 43-45-46-47-48-49 cm / 17"-17 3/4"-18"-18½"-19"-19 1/4", work diagram A-2 one time vertically –
AT THE SAME TIME, evenly on 1st round, dec 2 sts in size S and inc 2 sts in size M = 132-150-162-180-198-216 sts.
AT THE SAME TIME on last round, bind off 8 sts in each side for all sizes (i.e. 4 sts on each side of every marker) = 116-134-146-164-182-200 sts, cut the thread.
Piece measures approx. 49-51-52-53-54-55 cm / 19 1/4"-20"-20½"-21"-21 1/4"-21½".
Put piece aside and work the sleeve edges.

Worked in the round on a short circular needle.
Cast on 68-68-68-76-76-80 sts on circular needle size 4 mm / US 6 with camel. Work 5 rounds rib = K 2/P 2. Then K 1 round while at the same time dec 8-8-8-10-10-8 sts evenly = 60-60-60-66-66-72 sts.
Finally K 1 round while at the same time casting/binding off the first 8 sts for armhole = 52-52-52-58-58-64 sts, cut the thread. Knit another sleeve edge.

Slip sleeve edges on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 220-238-250-280-298-328 sts. Then beg every round from mid back – insert a marker here. Work 1 round with camel while at the same time adjusting the no of sts to 220-242-242-264-286-308.
Continue with 0-0-2-4-6-9 rounds in camel before working diagram A-3 (= 10-11-11-12-13-14 repetitions on the round). After A-3, there are 200-220-220-240-260-280 sts on needle. Work 1 round with camel while at the same time dec 10-20-10-20-30-40 sts evenly = 190-200-210-220-230-240 sts. Continue with diagram A-4.
When A-4 has been worked, there are 76-80-84-88-92-96 sts on needle. Work with camel until finished measurements. Yoke measures approx. 21-21-22-23-24-25 cm / 8 1/4"-8 1/4"-8 3/4"-9"-9½"-9 3/4" vertically.
Then work an elevation in back of neck as follows in stockinette st with camel: K 7 sts past marker mid back, turn, tighten thread and P 14 sts back, turn, tighten thread and K 21 sts, turn, continue to work 7 sts more on every turn until a total of 56-56-56-70-70-70 sts have been worked, turn and K 1 round until mid back again.

Switch to circular needle size 4 mm / US 6. K 1 round with camel while at the same time inc 8 sts evenly = 84-88-92-96-100-104 sts. Continue with rib = K 2/P 2 for 3 cm / 1 1/8'', then bind off with K over K and P over P.

Sew tog the openings under the sleeves edges.

Sweater with long sleeves – see design: 143-15
Beret and neck warmer – see design: 143-16
Socks – see design: 143-17


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= camel
= pink
= light beige
= K 2 tog in the color that fits the pattern
= K
= P
= 1 YO between 2 sts
= slip 1 st as if to K, K 2 tog, psso

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 143-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (17)

Live G. Alstadsæter 02.02.2013 - 16:52:

Har barnebarn på 10 år, kan hun bruke S. Hun er ikke av de største. Kan jeg gå ned på pinnestørrelse for å få den passe stor? Vi likte mønsteret begge to, men jeg har aldri prøvd Dropsgarn. Er pinnestørrelsen tilsvarende de som fås kjøpt i forretning? Ser at May-Britt spør om målen og det ønsker jeg også, ihvertfall for S, eks. hel lengde, brystvidde, lengde armhule opp til skulder etc. Forøvrig er det veldig bra utvalg av mønster. Hilsen Live

DROPS Design 04.02.2013 kl. 14:24:

Nederst paa siden finder du en maalskitse med maalene per str i cm. Du kan sammenligne disse med dit barnebarn. Vil du göre den mindre, da kan du göre det med strikkefastheden (m per 10 cm). At strikke med tyndere pind er ikke at anbefale, da det kan have indflydelse paa din rundfelling.

May-Britt Lavre 02.02.2013 - 13:55:

Hva er målene på de forskjellige str på denne modellen. Har aldri strikket med dette garnet så jeg vil gjerne vite det. Brystvidde og lengde på tunikaen. Takk

DROPS Design 04.02.2013 kl. 14:25:

Se nederst paa mönstret. Her er en maalskitse med de forskellige laengder i cm per str.

Sandra Nispel 10.01.2013 - 12:01:

Kann es sein, dass nach A4 direkt A5 kommt und danach erst die verkürzten Reihen? So sieht es auf dem Foto zumindest aus. Es ist mein erstes Projekt in Fair Isle und sieht bis jetzt total gut aus!

DROPS Design 10.01.2013 kl. 13:35:

Liebe Sandra, bei der Tunika endet das Muster nach A-4. Sie sehen auf dem Foto, dass das letzte Muster ein hellbeiges Herz vor einem rosa Hintergrund ist. Schön, dass Ihnen Ihr erstes Fair Isle – Werk gelungen ist!

Kathy 19.11.2012 - 17:19:

Where can I find the matching hat pattern?

DROPS Design 19.11.2012 kl. 17:58:

Dear Kathy, at the very end of the pattern you find the link to "Beret and neck warmer" pattern 143-16. Happy knitting!

José 18.10.2012 - 15:01:

Bij het prachtige patroon 143, 14 staat bij patroon A-1 een verkeerd aantal steken gemeld: het moet 16 zijn.

DROPS Design 19.10.2012 kl. 11:39:

Je hebt helemaal gelijk. Wij passen dit zsm aan. Bedankt

Stine 26.07.2012 - 11:59:

Jeg har fundet nogle fejl i opskriften A1 går over 16 og ikke 26 masker A5 står intet sted nævnt strømpepinde 5 ser jeg ikke noget brug af

Liza 18.06.2012 - 22:42:

Den var kjempe fint. Den har jeg lyst å strikke, sammen med strømpene

Herma 14.06.2012 - 12:37:

Mooie tuniek leuke kleuren

Judith 10.06.2012 - 21:58:


Kari Aas 10.06.2012 - 19:36:

Denne er superlekker. Den skal jeg ha sammen med stømpene, pulsvarmeren, luen og halsen.

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