DROPS / 137 / 27

Crossroads by DROPS Design

DROPS square knitted jacket with ¾ sleeves in ”Delight” and ”Vivaldi”. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no DE-075
Yarn group A and C
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
Chest measurements: 84/92 - 98/106 - 112/120 cm / 33"/36" - 38½"/41¾" - 44"/47¼"

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
250-300-350 g color no 06, pink/purple
And use: DROPS VIVALDI from Garnstudio
200-200-250 g color no 08, gray pink

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 and 80 cm / 24'' or 32'') SIZE 7 mm/US 10½ – or size needed to get 14 sts x 19 rows in stockinette st with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Vivaldi = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 6 mm/US 10 – or size needed to get 14 sts x 28 rows in garter st with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Vivaldi = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Vivaldi DROPS Vivaldi
56% Mohair, 30% Polyamide, 14% Wool
find alternatives
DROPS Needles & Hooks

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
To make the color transitions in Delight pretty when switching ball, it is important to find a ball that starts with the same color last ball ended with.

Inc 1 st by making 1 YO on each side of all 4 corner sts, on next round K YOs twisted (i.e. in back loop of st instead of front) to avoid holes.

GARTER ST (back and forth): K all rows. 1 ridge = 2 rows K.

Worked from mid back in a square, then worked down the back piece and outwards in each side for front piece. Finish by working the sleeves. READ TIP FOR SWITCHING STRANDS!

Cast on 8 sts with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Vivaldi and divide them on 4 double pointed needles size 7 mm / US 10½ (= 2 sts on every needle).
Insert a marker in the first st on every needle (= 4 markers). Work in stockinette st in the round - AT THE SAME TIME on 1st round, inc 1 st on each side of all sts with markers (= 8 inc) - SEE INCREASE TIP! * Work 2 rounds with inc, then 1 round without inc *, repeat from *-*. REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
Sts with markers are corner sts, let the markers follow when working outwards.
Switch to circular needle when there are enough sts.
Work and inc until there are total of 192-208-224 sts on needle (= 47-51-55 sts between all corner sts).
Piece now measures approx. 34-37-40 cm / 13 3/4"-14½"-15 3/4" along each side. Work next round as follows: Work 49-53-57 sts (= from and with 1st corner st to and with 2nd corner st) and slip them on stitch holder 1 (= right front piece), bind off the next 47-51-55 sts (= up towards neck), work the next 49-53-57 sts (= from and with 3rd corner st to and with 4th corner st) and slip them on stitch holder 2 (= left front piece), work in GARTER ST over the remaining sts on needle size 6 mm / US 10 – see explanation above – for 14-16-18 cm / 5½"-6 1/4"-7" (= down the back piece).
Then LOOSELY bind off.

Pick up on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Vivaldi: 20-22-25 sts along the right side of ridges worked down the back piece, then work sts from stitch holder 1 on to needle = a total of 69-75-82 sts. K 2 rows back and forth.
Work next row as follows (= WS): K 7, bind off 27-29-32 sts for armhole and K the rest of row (= 35-39-43 sts).
Then work short rows under armhole as follows: K 7-8-9, turn and K back, K 14-16-18, turn and K back, K 21-24-27, turn and K back, K 28-32-36, turn and K back, K all 35-39-43 sts, turn and K back, K 28-32-36, turn and K back, K 21-24-27, turn and K back, K 14-16-18, turn and K back, K 7-8-9, turn and K back. Work next row as follows: K 35-39-43, cast on 27-29-32 new sts over armhole and K the last 7 sts = 69-75-82 sts.
Continue in garter st back and forth over all sts.
When piece measures 37-42-47 cm / 14½"-16½"-18½", slip sts on a stitch holder in the right side (seen from RS) as follows, beg from RS: Work 3-3-4 sts, then slip them on a stitch holder, work the rest of row, turn and work back, turn, work 3 sts and then slip them on the same stitch holder, work the rest of row, * turn and work back, turn, work 3 sts, then slip them on the same stitch holder, work the rest of row *, repeat from *-* until all sts are on the stitch holder.
Then slip all sts back on needle (without working them), bind off – AT THE SAME TIME pick up the strand between the sts that were slipped on stitch holder every time (to avoid holes), bind off the picked up sts the same way as the other sts.

Work as right front piece - beg as follows from RS: Work sts from stitch holder 2 on to needle and then pick up 20-22-25 sts along the left side of ridges at the bottom of back piece = 69-75-82 sts.
K 1 row from WS, work next row as follows from RS: K 7, bind off 27-29-32 sts, K the rest of row (= 35-39-43 sts). Then finish as right front piece.
NOTE: When slipping sts on stitch holder, this is done in the left side seen from RS, beg on every row from WS.

Pick up with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Vivaldi on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 along the entire upper edge: Approx. 200-220-240 sts - pick up 1 st in every ridge and 1 st in every st.
Work in garter st back and forth - AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd row, inc 1 st in each side by making 1 YO inside outermost st, on next row K YOs twisted to avoid holes. Repeat inc every 6th row until finished measurements. When edge measures approx. 12-13-14 cm / 4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½", LOOSELY bind off – use circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½ when casting/binding off to avoid a tight bind off edge.

Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 40-42-44 sts (includes 1 edge st in each side) on circular needle size 6 mm / US 10 with 1 strand Delight and 1 strand Vivaldi.
Work 10 cm / 4'' in garter st. Switch to circular needle size 7 mm / US 10½ and work in stockinette st.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 13 cm / 5 1/8", inc 1 st in each side. Repeat inc every 3-2½-2 cm / 1 1/8"-7/8"-3/4" a total of 5-6-7 times = 50-54-58 sts.
When piece measures 28 cm / 11'' in all sizes, bind off for sleeve cap at beg of every row in each side: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3 times, then bind off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 36 cm / 14 1/4'' in all sizes, then bind off 3 sts 1 time in each side.
Bind off the remaining sts, the piece measures approx. 37 cm / 14½''.

Sew sleeve seams inside 1 edge st and sew in the sleeves.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= mid back
= knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 137-27) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (54)

Michelle Guillette 12.02.2016 - 18:07:

The instructions say insert a marker "in" the first stitch on each needle to mark the corner stitches, but if the marker is within the stitch, how can it follow as ypu are working outwards? Thank you, Michelle

DROPS Design 12.02.2016 kl. 18:18:

Dear Mrs Guillette, you can move the marker in the new st worked on next round - with our markers it will be easier, your DROPS store will for sure help you. Happy knitting!

Stefania 04.11.2015 - 12:13:

Vorrei sapere come posso eseguire lo stesso modello con i ferri tradizionali e non circolari grazie infinite

DROPS Design 04.11.2015 kl. 19:49:

Buonasera Stefania, questo modello inizia con il quadrato al centro dietro, che è lavorato in tondo, per cui non è possibile lavorarlo con i ferri dritti: in alternativa ai ferri circolari può utilizzare i ferri a doppia punta fino a quando il n° di m lo permette o la tecnica del magic loop. Buon lavoro!

Arina 06.03.2015 - 01:57:

Bij het opzetten van het rugpand met die 8 steken krijg ik het niet voor elkaar om rond te breien. Ik zie gewoon niet welke naald de volgende is. Zijn hier tips voor.

DROPS Design 06.03.2015 kl. 16:25:

Hoi Arina. Plaats een markeerder om aan te geven waar het begin van de nld is. Een goede tip is ook om de eerste paar naalden heen en weer te breien, dan wordt het werk wat steviger en makkelijker om in de rondte te breien.

Chrissi 05.01.2015 - 17:09:

Wo beginnt die verkürzte Reihe - am Armloch oder am unteren Rand?

DROPS Design 08.01.2015 kl. 00:01:

Sie beginnen die verkürzten R am rechten Vorderteil mit einer Hin-R, diese beginnt am unteren Rand. Am linken Vorderteil beginnen die verkürzten R somit auch am unteren Rand, aber mit einer Rück-R.

Conny 15.03.2014 - 14:40:

Het patroon klopt niet. In de tekening staat de breirichting aangegeven. zo heb ikhet ook gebreid, maar 42 cm was veel te veel. Je breidt dan vanaf de mouw naar het midden. Op de foto zie je dat de voorpanden van boven naar beneden zijn gebreid en niet in de breedte. Dus ergens klopt er iets niet in de nederlandse beschrijving. Ik zag dat er ook al een opmerking van een engelse was over dit probleem. Ik ben benieuwd naar jullie antwoord. groet,\ conny

DROPS Design 17.03.2014 kl. 16:48:

Hoi Conny. Het patroon klopt. Je breit de voorpanden zijwaarts vanuit het midden, maar als het vest gedragen wordt gaan deze voorpanden hangen en de richting ziet er dan ook anders uit op de foto. Kijk eventueel op dit project van een gebruiker op Ravelry.

Sara 04.02.2014 - 12:45:

Danke für die rasche Antwort! Verstehe ich es also richtig, dass man IMMER mit zwei Fäden strickt, immer mit einem Faden DELIGHT und einem Faden VIVALDI? Was ist dann hiermit in der Anleitung gemeint? "FARBWECHSEL: Damit der Knäuelwechsel schön wird muss man mit der gleichen Farbsequenz wechseln." Wo muss ich welche Farbe wechseln? Welche Sequenz? Danke nochmal für eine Antwort!

DROPS Design 05.02.2014 kl. 10:31:

Liebe Sara, irgendwann ist der Knäuel aufgebraucht und Sie brauchen einen neuen. Delight ist ein Farbveralufsgarn und de Knäuel beginnen nicht immer mit exakt der Farbe, mit der der alte Knäuel aufhört. Sie sollten also ein wenig darauf achten, dass die Farben harmonisch verlaufen und den nächsten Knäuel so wählen dass es passt.

Sara 03.02.2014 - 17:19:

Liebes Drops-Team, sind Sie sicher, dass die DELIGHT-Farbe für dieses Modell wirklich "rosa/lila" lautet? Für mich sieht die Farbe mehr nach BIG DELIGHT "rosengarten" aus. Denn diese Farbe sieht der auf dem Bild sehr ähnlich - ähnlicher als "rosa/lila" von DELIGHT. Eine kurze Antwort wäre nett, danke!

DROPS Design 04.02.2014 kl. 08:48:

Liebe Sara, die Farben und Materialien sind genau wie angegeben. Der Effekt entsteht durch das Zusammenstricken mit Vivaldi.

Lee 25.12.2013 - 17:59:

I finished the back of the sweater and don't understand the directions for the front. It needs to be knitted bottom to top but the directions call for side to side. I think there are directions missing at "NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE"

DROPS Design 27.12.2013 kl. 13:35:

Dear Lee, after back piece, you continue with right front piece: first pick up sts on the bottom part of back piece (the one worked back and forth for bottom back), then knit up sts from st holder 1 - see chart at the end of pattern with arrow to show knitting direction. Happy knitting!

Rudolf 01.08.2012 - 14:40:


Litet Nystan 01.08.2012 - 14:14:

Jag kan inte hitta någonstans i själva beskrivningen att man ska använda strumpstickor nr 6, men det står med i listan över material man behöver. Har det blivit fel?

DROPS Design 01.05.2013 kl. 16:54:

Jeg tror du har rett. Der skal ikke användas strumpstickor nr 6 her. Jeg har givet det videre så det kan fjernes.

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