Summer Circle by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in 2 strands ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

Keywords: asymmetric, circle, circle jackets, jackets, lace, long sleeves, rounded front edges, sewn in sleeves, stripes

DROPS design: Pattern no BS-011
Yarn group A
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
To fit chest measurements: 80/88 – 92/100 – 110/118 cm / 31"/35" - 36"/40" - 43"/47"

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-250-250 g color no 7219, pistachio
150-200-200 g color no 7402, light sea green
150-200-200 g color no 1760, light grey purple
100-100-100 g color no 3250, light old pink
100-100-100 g color no 4314, grey purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 tr x 5½ rows with tr vertically with 2 strands = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

Need help?
Print
- Pattern
- Photo

DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk
70% Alpaca, 30% Silk

from 6.80 $ /50g

Order

	DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour	6.80 $ /50g Purple Sheep Yarns	Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 95.20$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

STRIPES:
BODY:
Beg with 2 strands light sea green.
Then work 3-3-4 rounds with each of the following colors:
Stripe 1: 2 strands light sea green,
Stripe 2: 1 strand light sea green and 1 strand pistachio
Stripe 3: 2 strands pistachio
Stripe 4: 1 strand pistachio and 1 strand light gray purple
Stripe 5: 2 strands light gray purple,
Stripe 6: 1 strand light old pink and 1 strand light gray purple
Stripe 7: 2 strands light old pink,
Stripe 8: 1 strand light old pink and 1 strand gray purple
Stripe 9 until finished measurements: 2 strands gray purple

SLEEVE:
Worked in stripes. Work sleeve cap as 5th-5th-4th stripe, then work 12 cm / 4¾'' as stripe 4-4-3, 12 cm / 4¾'' as stripe 3-3-2, 12 cm / 4¾'' as stripe 2-2-1, and work as stripe 1 until finished measurements.

CROCHET TIP:
Replace first tr on every round/row with ch 4.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to the body):
Dec as follows: Work tr until 3 tr remain, * in the first of these work 1 dc, in the next 1 hdc and in the last 1 sc, turn with ch 1, skip sc, work 1 sl st in hdc and 1 sl st in dc, then 1 sc in first tr, 1 hdc in next tr and 1 dc in next tr, work tr until 3 tr remain at end of row *, repeat from *-* until a total of 6-8-12 rows have been worked.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve):
Dec at beg of row by working sl st over the no of tr to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until same no of tr to be dec remains, turn piece.
--------------------------------------------------------
BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back with 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Ch 8 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 12 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 2: 5 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * 1 dc in next sc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3: READ CROCHET TIP!
1 tr, 2 tr in same dc, * 1 tr in ch-space, 3 tr in next dc *, finish with 1 tr in the last ch-space and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 48 tr.
ROUND 4: 1 tr, * 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 tr in next tr and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 72 tr.
ROUND 5: 1 tr, * 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in each of the next 2 tr * repeat from *-* and finish with 2 tr in next tr, 1 tr in next tr and 1 sl st in 4th ch = 96 tr.
ROUND 6:
5 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 ch-spaces.
ROUND 7:
Work 1 tr in every dc and work 1 and 2 tr alternately in every ch-space the entire round = 120 tr.
ROUND 8:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 10th tr = 132 tr.
ROUND 9:
5 ch (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 66 ch-spaces.
ROUND 10:
Work 1 tr in every dc and work 1 and 2 tr alternately in every ch-space the entire round = 165 tr.
ROUND 11:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 15th tr = 176 tr.
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 16th tr = 187 tr.
Piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8'' from the middle and outwards.

SIZE S/M:
ROUND 13:
ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 45 tr (= up towards neck), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 88 tr (= down towards back), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 45 sc (= 47 tr), then work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 88 sc (= 91 tr), work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole and fasten with 1 sl st in 4th ch = 198 tr.
ROUND 15 to 19:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 19th round there are 228 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 33 cm / 13'' from the middle and outwards.
Continue working only over 79 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 35 tr at top by neck and 35 tr at bottom of back. Cut the yarn.
Continue with explanation below for front piece.

SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr.
ROUND 14:
1 ch, then work 1 sc in each of the first 50 tr (= up towards neck), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 90 tr (= down towards back), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 3 tr evenly over the first 50 sc (= 53 tr), then work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 90 sc (= 93 tr), work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole and fasten with 1 sl st in 4th ch = 210 tr.
ROUND 16 to 20:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 20th round there are 240 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 35 cm / 13 3/4'' from the middle and outwards.
Continue working only over 81 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 39 tr at top by neck and 39 tr at bottom of back. Cut the yarn.
Continue with explanation below for front piece.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 18th tr = 209 tr.
ROUND 15:
1 ch, then work 1 sc in each of the first 54 tr (= up towards neck), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 91 tr (= down towards back), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 16:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 54 sc (= 56 tr), then work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 91 sc (= 94 tr), and work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole = 222 tr.
ROUND 17 to 22:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 22nd round there are 258 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 37 cm / 14½'' from the middle and outwards.
Continue working only over 89 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 40 tr at top by neck and 40 tr at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES:
= 79-81-89 tr. Insert a marker after 23-24-27 sts in from each side (= 33-33-35 sts between markers). Then work tr back and forth over these sts while at the same time inc 1 st at every marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 sts on row, inc alternately before and after marker) and dec 3 sts at end and beg of every row in each side – SEE DECREASE TIP 1 until a total of 6-8-12 rows back and forth have been worked = 55-49-41 tr.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left piece over 79-81-89 tr in right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from sleeve cap and down with 2 strands BabyAlpaca Silk and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Ch 28-34-38 with stripe 5-5-4. Turn and work 1 tr in 5th ch from hook ( = 2 tr), then work 1 tr in every ch = 25-31-35 tr.
ROW 2: Work ch 4, 3 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 23-29-33 tr, 4 tr in the last tr = 31-37-41 tr. Turn.
ROW 3, 4 and 5: Work ch 4, 2 tr in first tr, 1 tr in every tr until 1 tr remains, 3 tr in the last tr = 43-49-53 tr. Turn.
ROW 6: Work ch 4, 3 tr in first tr, 1 tr in each of the next 41-47-51 tr, 4 tr in the last tr = 49-55-59 tr. Turn. Switch to stripe 4-4-3 here.

Then work tr on all rows until piece measures 17-15-15 cm / 6 3/4"-6"-6". Continue with tr while AT THE SAME TIME dec as follows in each side:

SIZE S/M:
* Work 1 row where dec 1 tr in each side - see Decrease tip. Work 1 row without dec. Work 1 row where dec 1 tr in each side. Work 2 rows without dec *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times = 12 dec = 37 tr.
SIZE L/XL + XXL/XXXL:
* Work 1 row where dec 1 tr in each side - see Decrease tip. Work 1 row without dec *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times = 16 dec = 39-43 tr.

Continue to work as follows:
ROW 1: 1 tr in every tr.
ROW 2: 6 ch (= 1 tr + ch 2), skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, * ch 2, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 18-19-21 ch-spaces.
ROW 3: Work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr in every ch-space = 37-39-43 tr.
Repeat rows 1 to 3 a total of 3 times, sleeve measures approx. 61-61-61 cm / 24"-24"-24". Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Work 1 round around the entire body and at bottom of sleeves as follows with 2 strands gray purple: 1 sl st, * ch 5, 1 dc in first ch, skip 1 st, fasten with 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
Sew in the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. Click here to see the correction/s..

Updated online: 12.03.2012
Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-250-250 g color no 7219, pistachio
150-200-200 g color no 7402, light sea green
150-200-200 g color no 1760, light grey purple
100-100-100 g color no 3250, light old pink
100-100-100 g color no 4314, grey purple

Updated online: 27.03.2012
STRIPES:...
Stripe 8: 1 strand light old pink and 1 strand gray purple
Stripe 9 until finished measurements: 2 strands gray purple
ASSEMBLY:...
Work 1 round around the entire body and at bottom of sleeves as follows with 2 strands gray purple:

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 136-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

And a very handy technical dictionary!

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ).

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

2) What are the yarn groups?

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

8) What is a repeat?

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

You might also like...