DROPS / 136 / 1

Summer Circle by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in 2 threads ”BabyAlpaca Silk”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no BS-011
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL
To fit chest measurements: 80/88 – 92/100 – 110/118 cm

Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-250-250 g colour no 7219, pistachio
150-200-200 g colour no 7402, light sea green
150-200-200 g colour no 1760, light grey purple
100-100-100 g colour no 3250, light old pink
100-100-100 g colour no 4314, grey purple

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 5 mm – or size needed to get 14 dtr x 5½ rows with dtr vertically with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 170 cm and uses size S or M. If you are making a jumper, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 2.85 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 2.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 39.90£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
STRIPES:

BODY:
Beg with 2 threads light sea green.
Then work 3-3-4 rounds with each of the following colours:
Stripe 1: 2 threads light sea green,
Stripe 2: 1 thread light sea green and 1 thread pistachio
Stripe 3: 2 threads pistachio
Stripe 4: 1 thread pistachio and 1 thread light grey purple
Stripe 5: 2 threads light grey purple,
Stripe 6: 1 thread light old pink and 1 thread light grey purple
Stripe 7: 2 threads light old pink,
Stripe 8: 1 thread light old pink and 1 thread grey purple
Stripe 9 until finished measurements: 2 threads grey purple

SLEEVE:
Worked in stripes. Work sleeve cap as 5th-5th-4th stripe, then work 12 cm as stripe 4-4-3, 12 cm as stripe 3-3-2, 12 cm as stripe 2-2-1, and work as stripe 1 until finished measurements.

CROCHET TIP:
Replace first dtr on every round/row with 4 ch.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to the body):
Dec as follows: Work dtr until 3 dtr remain, * in the first of these work 1 tr, in the next 1 htr and in the last 1 dc, turn with 1 ch, skip dc, work 1 sl st in htr and 1 sl st in tr, then 1 dc in first dtr, 1 htr in next dtr and 1 tr in next dtr, work dtr until 3 dtr remain at end of row *, repeat from *-* until a total of 6-8-12 rows have been worked.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve):
Dec at beg of row by working sl st over the no of dtr to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until same no of dtr to be dec remains, turn piece.
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BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back with 2 threads BabyAlpaca Silk and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Crochet 8 ch on hook size 5 mm and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1: Work 12 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
ROUND 2: 5 ch (= 1 tr + 2 ch), * 1 tr in next dc, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 tr with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3: READ CROCHET TIP!
1 dtr, 2 dtr in same tr, * 1 dtr in ch-loop, 3 dtr in next tr *, finish with 1 dtr in the last ch-loop and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 48 dtr.
ROUND 4: 1 dtr, * 2 dtr in next dtr, 1 dtr in next dtr *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 dtr in next dtr and 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = 72 dtr.
ROUND 5: 1 dtr, * 2 dtr in next dtr, 1 dtr in each of the next 2 dtr * repeat from *-* and finish with 2 dtr in next dtr, 1 dtr in next dtr and 1 sl st in 4th ch = 96 dtr.
ROUND 6:
5 ch (= 1 tr + 2 ch), * skip 1 dtr, 1 tr in next dtr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 ch-loops.
ROUND 7:
Work 1 dtr in every tr and work 1 and 2 dtr alternately in every ch-loop the entire round = 120 dtr.
ROUND 8:
Work 1 dtr in every dtr but work 2 dtr in every 10th dtr = 132 dtr.
ROUND 9:
5 ch (= 1 tr + 2 ch), * skip 1 dtr, 1 tr in next dtr, 2 ch *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 66 ch-loops.
ROUND 10:
Work 1 dtr in every tr and work 1 and 2 dtr alternately in every ch-loop the entire round = 165 dtr.
ROUND 11:
Work 1 dtr in every dtr but work 2 dtr in every 15th dtr = 176 dtr.
ROUND 12:
Work 1 dtr in every dtr but work 2 dtr in every 16th dtr = 187 dtr.
Piece measures approx. 20 cm from centre and outwards.

SIZE S/M:
ROUND 13:
1 ch, then work 1 dc in each of the first 45 dtr (= up towards neck), work 30 loose ch, skip the next 27 dtr (= armhole), then work 1 dc in each of the next 88 dtr (= down towards back), work 30 loose ch, skip the next 27 dtr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc on round.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 dtr in every dc - but inc 2 dtr evenly over the first 45 dc (= 47 dtr), then work 30 dtr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 dtr in every dc – but inc 3 dtr evenly over the bottom 88 dc (= 91 dtr), work 30 dtr in ch-row over armhole and fasten with 1 sl st in 4th ch = 198 dtr.
ROUND 15 to 19:
Continue with dtr – while at the same time inc 6 dtr evenly on every round. After 19th round there are 228 dtr on the round and piece measures approx. 33 cm from centre and outwards.
Continue working only over 79 dtr in each side – i.e. do not work over 35 dtr at top by neck and 35 dtr at bottom of back. Cut the thread.
Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 dtr in every dtr but work 2 dtr in every 17th dtr = 198 dtr.
ROUND 14:
1 ch, then work 1 dc in each of the first 50 dtr (= up towards neck), work 32 loose ch, skip the next 29 dtr (= armhole), then work 1 dc in each of the next 90 dtr (= down towards back), work 32 loose ch, skip the next 29 dtr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc on round.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 dtr in every dc - but inc 3 dtr evenly over the first 50 dc (= 53 dtr), then work 32 dtr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 dtr in every dc – but inc 3 dtr evenly over the bottom 90 dc (= 93 dtr), work 32 dtr in ch-row over armhole and fasten with 1 sl st in 4th ch = 210 dtr.
ROUND 16 to 20:
Continue with dtr – while at the same time inc 6 dtr evenly on every round. After 20th round there are 240 dtr on the round and piece measures approx. 35 cm from centre and outwards.
Continue working only over 81 dtr in each side – i.e. do not work over 39 dtr at top by neck and 39 dtr at bottom of back. Cut the thread.
Continue with explanation below front piece.

SIZE XXL/XXXL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 dtr in every dtr but work 2 dtr in every 17th dtr = 198 dtr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 dtr in every dtr but work 2 dtr in every 18th dtr = 209 dtr.
ROUND 15:
1 ch, then work 1 dc in each of the first 54 dtr (= up towards neck), work 36 loose ch, skip the next 32 dtr (= armhole), then work 1 dc in each of the next 91 dtr (= down towards back), work 36 loose ch, skip the next 32 dtr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first dc on round.
ROUND 16:
Work 1 dtr in every dc - but inc 2 dtr evenly over the first 54 dc (= 56 dtr), then work 36 dtr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 dtr in every dc – but inc 3 dtr evenly over the bottom 91 dc (= 94 dtr), and work 36 dtr in ch-row over armhole = 222 dtr.
ROUND 17 to 22:
Continue with dtr – while at the same time inc 6 dtr evenly on every round. After 22nd round there are 258 dtr on the round and piece measures approx. 37 cm from centre and outwards.
Continue working only over 89 dtr in each side – i.e. do not work over 40 dtr at top by neck and 40 dtr at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation below front piece.

LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES:
= 79-81-89 dtr. Insert a marker after 23-24-27 sts in from each side (= 33-33-35 sts between markers). Then work dtr back and forth over these sts while at the same time inc 1 st at every marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 sts on row, inc alternately before and after marker) and dec 3 sts at end and beg of every row in each side – SEE DECREASE TIP 1 until a total of 6-8-12 rows back and forth have been worked = 55-49-41 dtr.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left piece over 79-81-89 dtr in right side.

SLEEVE:
Worked back and forth from sleeve cap and down with 2 threads BabyAlpaca Silk and STRIPES – see explanation above.
Work 28-34-38 ch with stripe 5-5-4. Turn and work 1 dtr in 5th ch from hook ( = 2 dtr), then work 1 dtr in every ch = 25-31-35 dtr.
ROW 2: Work 4 ch, 3 dtr in first dtr, 1 dtr in each of the next 23-29-33 dtr, 4 dtr in the last dtr = 31-37-41 dtr. Turn.
ROW 3, 4 and 5: Work 4 ch, 2 dtr in first dtr, 1 dtr in every dtr until 1 dtr remains, 3 dtr in the last dtr = 43-49-53 dtr. Turn.
ROW 6: Work 4 ch, 3 dtr in first dtr, 1 dtr in each of the next 41-47-51 dtr, 4 dtr in the last dtr = 49-55-59 dtr. Turn. Switch to stripe 4-4-3 here.

Then work dtr on all rows until piece measures 17-15-15 cm. Continue with dtr while AT THE SAME TIME dec as follows in each side:

SIZE S/M:
* Work 1 row where dec 1 dtr in each side - see Decrease tip. Work 1 row without dec. Work 1 row where dec 1 dtr in each side. Work 2 rows without dec *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times = 12 dec = 37 dtr.
SIZE L/XL + XXL/XXXL:
* Work 1 row where dec 1 dtr in each side - see Decrease tip. Work 1 row without dec *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times = 16 dec = 39-43 dtr.

Continue to work as follows:
ROW 1: 1 dtr in every dtr.
ROW 2: 6 ch (= 1 dtr + 2 ch), skip 1 dtr, 1 dtr in next dtr, * 2 ch, skip 1 dtr, 1 dtr in next dtr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 18-19-21 ch-loops.
ROW 3: Work 1 dtr in every dtr and 1 dtr in every ch-loop = 37-39-43 dtr.
Repeat rows 1 to 3 a total of 3 times, sleeve measures approx. 61-61-61 cm. Cut and fasten the thread.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Work 1 round around the entire body and at bottom of sleeves as follows with 2 threads grey purple: 1 sl st, * 5 ch, 1 tr in first ch, skip 1 st, fasten with 1 dc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch. Sew in the sleeves.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 12.03.2012
Materials: DROPS BABYALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
200-250-250 g colour no 7219, pistachio
150-200-200 g colour no 7402, light sea green
150-200-200 g colour no 1760, light grey purple
100-100-100 g colour no 3250, light old pink
100-100-100 g colour no 4314, grey purple
Updated online: 27.03.2012
STRIPES:...
Stripe 8: 1 strand light old pink and 1 strand gray purple
Stripe 9 until finished measurements: 2 strands gray purple
ASSEMBLY:...
Work 1 round around the entire body and at bottom of sleeves as follows with 2 strands gray purple:

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 136-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (183)

Nikki 08.06.2019 - 19:17:

What are the yarn quantities for the Small/1st size please as I do not want to purchase the total quantity for the XXL? Thanks.

DROPS Design 08.06.2019 kl. 19:44:

Dear Nikki, yarn amount for the Small size is the first number in material list, so you need: 200 g colour no 7219, pistachio; 150 g colour no 7402, light sea green; 150 g colour no 1760, light grey purple; 100 g colour no 3250, light old pink; 100 g colour no 4314, grey purple. Happy crocheting!

Gilda 29.01.2019 - 03:26:

Salve, ho un problema con le due parti del davanti, sinistro e destro. Come si fa ad individuare precise le rispettive 79 maglie sulle quali lavorare. Oppure le precise metà del collo, 35 mad, e le 35 della parte di sotto? In particolare, da dove iniziare per trovare la metà?

DROPS Design 29.01.2019 kl. 10:57:

Buongiorno Gilda, abbiamo leggermente modificato il testo, comunque deve lasciare da parte le 35 maglie alte doppie del collo e le 35 maglie alte doppie della parte inferiore del dietro. Buon lavoro!

Zia 05.01.2019 - 10:37:

Bonjour, je rencontre un pb pour les manches, je ne comprends pas comment la maille chainette de départ de la manche peut être de 28m alors que les instructions font sauter 27 DB au tour 13 pour l'emmanchure... je n'ai qu'un coté de la manche si je travaille sur 28mch au départ de la manche?? Je suis perdue!!

DROPS Design 07.01.2019 kl. 09:44:

Bonjour Zia, les manches se crochètent de haut en bas, en commençant par l'arrondi de la manche, les 25 DB du début de la manche (sur 28 ml) vont être augmentées d'abord à 49 brides pour la largeur de l'emmanchure puis on diminuera pour le poignet. Bon crochet!

Gilda Le Pera 14.08.2018 - 11:28:

Il problema è che non ho ben capito il discorso delle diminuzioni; devono essere fatte all'inizio e alla fine di ogni riga, ma le spiegazioni ( diminuzioni 1) mi risultano poco chiare; soprattutto nella prima riga, che è proprio dove dovrei diminuire all'inizio

DROPS Design 14.08.2018 kl. 19:34:

Buonasera Gilda, può iniziare la riga come descritto nel suggerimento: "girare il lavoro con 1 cat, saltare 1 m.b, lavorare 1 m.bss nella m.m.a e 1 m.bss nella m.a, poi 1 m.b nella 1° m.a.d, 1 m.m.a nella m.a.d seguente e 1 m.a nella m.a.d seguente, lavorare m.a.d finché non rimangano 3 m.a.d alla fine della riga" Buon lavoro!

Gilda 13.08.2018 - 23:48:

Salve, ho difficoltà a capire le istruzioni per quanto riguarda le diminuzioni, sui due lati davanti. Dove si aumenta e diminuisce allo stesso tempo

DROPS Design 14.08.2018 kl. 10:38:

Buongiorno Gilda, se ci spiega meglio le sue difficoltà possiamo aiutarla meglio. In ogni caso sul davanti sinistro aumentare 1 maglia alta in corrispondenza di ogni segnapunti su ogni riga (2 aumenti per riga), in modo alternato prima e dopo il segnapunti (quindi su una riga aumenta prima e su quella successiva aumenta dopo) e contemporaneamente diminuire 3 m all' inizio e alla fine di ogni riga ad ogni lato – seguendo il suggerimento per le DIMINUZIONI-1 fino a quando sono state lavorate le righe indicate. Buon lavoro!

Barbara 07.07.2018 - 23:42:

Volendo fare il modello piu' grande (circonferenza petto 107cm) come modifico le istruzioni? Grazie

DROPS Design 08.07.2018 kl. 08:02:

Buongiorno Barbara. Abbiamo corretto le misure del giropetto. Può ora verificare la misura corretta da seguire. Buon lavoro!

Sophie Kling 18.02.2018 - 14:27:

Hej Jag vill anmäla ett fel mönstret. Det behövs 150g av både grålila och gammalrosa garnet i storlek S Jag blev riktigt besviken att ni skrivit fel då det blev fel i min beställning.

Rosaria Napolitano 01.02.2018 - 15:17:

Buongiorno, sto facendo questo modello ma mi sono bloccata. sono ferma al 19° giro, cosa intendete per lavorare solo sopra 79 mad ad ogni lato (devo quindi lavorare anche sulle maniche?non riesco a capire come si fa il davanti. Dalle spiegazioni che date sembrerebbe da lavorare a parte, non riesco a capire. Potete spiegarmi meglio Grazie

DROPS Design 01.02.2018 kl. 15:52:

Buongiorno Rosaria. Lo spazio per le maniche è stato creato al giro 13 (Taglia s/m), quando ha avviato le 30 cat e saltato le 27 m dello scalfo. Le maglie che lavora nelle cat dello scalfo sono maglie dei davanti. Al giro 19 deve proseguire solo sulle maglie dei davanti, non lavorando più sulla parte del lavoro dello scollo e quella in basso. Le maniche le lavora a parte e le cuce intorno all'apertura degli scalfi. Buon lavoro!

Rachele 27.01.2018 - 11:38:

Non capisco bene dalle spiegazioni come effettuare il davanti. Aumenti e diminuzioni?

DROPS Design 27.01.2018 kl. 20:04:

Buonasera Rachele, il davanti viene modellato con aumenti e diminuzioni come spiegato nelle istruzioni. Se c'è un punto non chiaro, ci scriva pure. Buon lavoro!

Christina 09.11.2017 - 00:35:

I know the front left side has been addressed, but I am still so confused: I understand up to inc at each marker... Am I to increase on both sides of the marker? Also I don't under inc and dec at the same time. If I'm inc at each marker at every row, how am I dec at the beginning and end of each row? Isn't that the same thing? I'm so confused.

DROPS Design 09.11.2017 kl. 09:16:

Dear Christina, you will dec 1 st at each marker, ie on first row inc 1 st before both markers (= 2 sts inc), on next row inc 1 st after both markers (= 2 sts inc) and continue that way. At the same time, decrease at the end of first row + at the beg of next row as explained under DECREASE-TIP-1, and continue dec at the end and beg of row as explained. Happy crocheting!

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