DROPS / 162 / 11

Ros by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle with lace pattern in ”Cotton Viscose”. Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no n-169
Yarn group A
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Size: S/M – L/XL – XXL/ XXXL
All measurements in chart in cm. Conversion to inch - see page 4.

Materials:
DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
900-1100-1350 g color no 27, lilac

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 22 dc x 12 rows = 4'' x 4'' (10 x 10 cm).

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PICOT:
Work ch 2, 1 sc in the 2nd ch from hook.

CROCHET INFO:
Beg every dc round/row with 3 ch that replace first dc and finish every round/row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round/row.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1-A.2. After 3rd round, repeat A.1 6 times in total on round.

CROCHET 3 dc TOG:
Work 3 dc into 1 dc at beg of row as follows: Work 3 ch (= replace 1 dc), work 1 dc, but wait with last pull through (= 2 strands on hook), then work next dc but on last pull through, pull yarn through all sts on hook.

DECREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Dec at beg of row by working 1 sl st over the dc to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until 1 dc to be dec remains, turn piece.
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CIRCLE:
Work 7 ch on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Cotton Viscose and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch. Then work A.1 as follows:
ROUND 1: Work ch 3, 12 dc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 2: Work ch 1, * 1 sc in first dc, 14 ch *, repeat from *-* 12 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first sc. Fasten off.
ROUND 3: Work 1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 5, * 1 sl st in next ch-space, 5 ch *, repeat from *-* 11 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first ch-space.

A.1 is repeated 6 times in total on round.
ROUND 4: Work ch 3, in first ch-space work: * 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc in same ch-space, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 12 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
ROUND 5: Work ch 1, in first ch-space work 2 dc, 2 tr, 1 PICOT – see explanation above, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 sc in next ch, * in next ch-space work 2 dc, 2 tr, 1 picot, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 11 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 12 leaves.
ROUND 6: Work ch 1, * ch 6, 1 sc in sc and ch (from 5th and 4th round) *, repeat from *-* 12 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 7: Work ch 4, * ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 7, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch-space, 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 6 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch.
ROUND 8: Work ch 3, 3 dc in next ch-space, * 1 dc in next dc, 7 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 7 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, 1 dc in next dc, 7 dc in next ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch-space, 1 dc in next dc, 4 dc in first ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch = 114 dc. REMEMBER THE CROCHET GAUGE!
ROUND 9: Work ch 3, * 1 dc in every dc until ch-space, in ch-space as follows: 1 dc, ch 3, 1 dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch = 126 dc.
ROUND 10: Work ch 1, * ch 7, skip 6 dc, 1 sl st in next dc, ch 7, skip 6 dc, 1 sl st in next dc, ch 5, 1 sl st in next dc, ch 7, skip 6 dc, 1 sl st in next dc *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, ch 7, skip 6 dc, 1 sl st in next dc, ch 7, skip 6 dc, 1 sl st in next dc, ch 5, 1 sl st in next dc, ch 7, skip 6 dc, 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 11: Work ch 3, in every ch-space work 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.
ROUND 12: Work ch 1, * in next ch-space work 2 dc, 2 tr, 1 picot, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 sc in next ch *, repeat from *-* 24 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 24 leaves.
ROUND 13: Work ch 1, * ch 6, 1 sc in sc and ch (from 12th and 11th round) *, repeat from *-* 24 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 14: Work ch 4, * ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 7, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch-space, 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 12 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch.
ROUND 15: Work 3 ch - READ CROCHET INFO, work 4 dc in first ch-space (i.e. ch-space with 3 ch), now work dc in all ch-space with 7 ch from previous round, do not work in ch-space with 3 ch from previous round. Work * 8 dc in each of the next 7 ch-spaces, 9 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 2 times in total, 8 dc in each of the next 7 ch-spaces, 5 dc in last ch-space (i.e. ch-space with 4 ch) = 195 dc.
ROUND 16: Work * 1 dc in each of the first 14 dc, 2 dc in next dc *, repeat from *-* 13 times in total = 208 dc.
ROUND 17: Work * 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 15 dc *, repeat from *-* 13 times in total AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 dc extra on round = 222 dc.
ROUND 18: Work ch 1, * ch 6, skip 5 dc, 1 sl st in next dc *, repeat from *-* 37 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 19:Work as round 11 in A.1: Work ch 3, in every ch-space work 2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc, ch 1, finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.
ROUND 20: Work as round 12 in A.1: Work ch 1, * in next ch-space work 2 dc, 2 tr, 1 picot, 2 tr, 2 dc, 1 ch *, repeat from *-* 37 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first ch = 37 leaves.
ROUND 21: Work as round 13 in A.1: Work ch 1, * ch 6, 1 sc in sc and ch (from 20th and 19th round) *, repeat from *-* 37 times in total, finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 22: Work as round 14 in A.1: Work ch 4, * ch 3, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 7, 1 dc in next ch-space, ch 3, 1 dc in same ch-space, 4 ch *, repeat from *-* 18 times in total, work ch 3, 1 dc in last ch-space, ch 4, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch.
ROUND 23: Work 4 dc in first ch-space (i.e. ch-space with 3 ch), now work dc in all ch-space with 7 ch from previous round, do not work in ch-space with 3 ch from previous round. Work * 7 dc in next ch-space, 8 dc in next ch-space, 7 dc in next ch-space *, repeat from *-* 11 times in total, 8 dc in next ch-space, 8 dc in next ch-space, 7 dc in next ch-space, 4 dc in last ch-space (i.e. ch-space with 4 ch) = 273 dc.

Then work piece back and forth. Work every row tog at the end of row with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of row. Turn piece.

ROW 24 (= WS): Work * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 11 dc (= dc-group), A.2 *, repeat from *-* 13 times in total = 169 dc and 13 A.2. Turn piece.
A.2 is repeated vertically until finished measurements.
ROW 25 (= RS): Work A.2, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next dc in dc-group, * A.2, 2 dc in first dc in dc-group, 1 dc in each of the next dc *, repeat from *-* until 1 dc-group remains, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next dc = 182 dc. Turn piece.
ROW 26: Work as row 24 = 195 dc (15 dc between every A.2).
ROW 27: Work as row 25 = 208 dc (16 dc between every A.2).
Repeat row 24-27 0-1-1 more time = 208-260-260 dc (= 16-20-20 dc between every A.2).
Piece measures approx. 20-23-23 cm / 8"-9"-9" from middle and outwards. Now work arm holes as follows:
ROW 28 (= from WS): Work 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 15-19-19 dc, A.2 as before, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 15-19-19 dc, A.2, 54-62-62 loose ch (= right armhole), skip: 16-20-20 dc + A.2 + 16-20-20 dc + A.2, work * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 15-19-19 dc, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, 2 dc in first dc, 1 dc in each of the next 15-19-19 dc, 54-62-62 loose ch (= left armhole), skip: A.2 + 16-20-20 dc + A.2 + 16-20-20 dc, work A.2, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 15-19-19 dc, A.2 = 153-189-189 dc, 9 A.2 and 108-124-124 ch.
ROW 29 (from RS): Work A.2, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 16-20-20 dc, A.2, in ch-row (= left armhole) work as follows: 1 dc in each of the 54-62-62 ch, * 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 16-20-20 dc, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 16-20-20 dc, in next ch-row (= right armhole) work as follows: 1 dc in each of the 54-62-62 ch, then work A.2, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 16-20-20 dc, A.2, 2 dc in next dc, 1 dc in each of the next 16-20-20 dc = 270-322-322 dc and 9 A.2.
ROW 30 (= from WS): Work 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2 as before, 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2, 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2 (adjust row according to the other repetitions), 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2, * 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 5 times in total, 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2, 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2, 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2, 1 dc in each of the next 18-22-22 dc, A.2 = 234-286-286 dc and 13 A.2.

Work pattern as before but now inc only on every row from RS until 52-52-60 rows have been worked in total = 377-429-481 dc (29-33-37 dc in every dc-group).

Insert 4 markers in the piece as follows from WS: Work 29-33-37 dc, A.2, 14-16-18 dc, insert 1st marker, work 15-17-19 dc, * A.2, 29-33-37 dc *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, insert 2nd marker here (1st-2nd marker = right front piece). Work A.2, 29-33-37 dc, A.2, 29-33-37 dc and A.2, insert 3rd marker here. * Work 29-33-37 dc, A.2 *, repeat from *-* 4 times in total, 15-17-19 dc, insert 4th marker. (3rd-4th marker = left front piece), 14-16-18 dc, A.2. dc between 1st and 4th marker are up towards neck. Fasten off.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Now work right front piece between 1st and 2nd marker, beg from 2nd marker (i.e. from RS) = 131-149-167 dc and 4 A.2. Continue inc in dc-groups as before BUT do not inc in dc-groups in each side of front piece - AT THE SAME TIME dec 2 dc at beg of every row by CROCHET 3 dc TOG - see explanation above. Work until 10-12-12 cm / 4"-4 3/4"-4 3/4" over front piece have been worked, adjust to finish with 1 whole repetition of A.2. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work left front piece between 3rd and 4th marker the same way as right front piece, beg from 4th marker (i.e. from RS).

EDGE:
Work an edge around the entire jacket as follows: Work the first 2 rounds of A.2, when working first round of A.2 over dc-rows, skip 2 dc-rows on each side of dc-group. Beg every round with 3 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch.

SLEEVES:
Work back and forth from armhole and down, work every row tog with 1 sl st at the end of row. Insert 1 marker in piece, NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE. Beg by working 86-94-102 dc evenly around the opening for sleeve, beg of row should be under sleeve. Then work 3 rows with 1 dc in every dc. Continue with 1 dc in every dc - AT THE SAME TIME dec differently in the different sizes as follows: READ DECREASE TIP!
SIZE S/M: Dec 1 st in each side of piece alternately every 3rd and 2nd row 16 times in total = 54 dc.
SIZE L/XL: Dec 1 st in each side of piece every other row 20 times in total = 54 dc.
SIZE XXL/XXXL: Dec 1 st in each side of piece every other row 24 times = 54 dc.
ALL SIZES:
Work 1 dc in every dc until sleeve measures approx. 47 cm / 18½'', adjust so that next row is from WS. Then work the first 2 rounds of A.2 (= 6 repetitions in width). Fasten off.
Work the other sleeve the same way.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch
= sl st
= sc around ch
= sc in dc
= dc in dc
= dc around ch
= tr around ch
= Picot: ch 2, 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook
= sc around sc and ch
= first round is explained in pattern
= Fold leaf down and work 1 dc in ch-space on first row/round in A.2, between 2 tr
= dc-group: work 2 dc in same dc, ch 3, 2 dc in same dc
= round 4-14



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 162-11) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (232)

Lorna 30.11.2019 - 14:58:

Is row 24 the first row of A2? If so row 53 would be a RS row, and the pattern aays to work from WS. Thanks

Zahraa Madian 01.11.2019 - 19:37:

Can u make it for me so I can buy it And how much does it cost

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 16:03:

Dear Mrs Madian, we only provide free patterns to make the designs; please feel free to contact your DROPS store, they might be able to help you. Thank you!

Angela 28.10.2019 - 14:32:

Hi!!! I'm almost finishing my project. I have doubts about the way I should finish my work...the instructions indicate that I work the first laps of A2 is being worked on the rows of high points. Please if you can clarify where I should work the 2 row of A2 and how I must finish my work. Thans a lot!

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 13:03:

Dear Angela, you are not supposed to have worked the 2nd row in A.2 before working front pieces separately, you may have then to adjust the edge to work either only the 2nd row in A.2 over front pieces adjusting nicely the beg and end of rows or then to work another repeat in A.2 in the round (this might use more yarn than required). Happy crocheting!

Maria 28.10.2019 - 14:31:

Hi!!! I'm almost finishing my project. I have doubts about the way I should finish my work...the instructions indicate that I work the first laps of A2 is being worked on the rows of high points. Please if you can clarify where I should work the 2 row of A2 and how I must finish my work. Thans a lot!

DROPS Design 04.11.2019 kl. 13:03:

Dear Maria, you are not supposed to have worked the 2nd row in A.2 before working front pieces separately, you may have then to adjust the edge to work either only the 2nd row in A.2 over front pieces adjusting nicely the beg and end of rows or then to work another repeat in A.2 in the round (this might use more yarn than required). Happy crocheting!

Jerry Degeling 14.10.2019 - 15:24:

Ik vind het een heel mooi patroon en wil het ook in katoen maken, momenteel maak ik het in sokkenwol. Ik ben niet zo goed in het lezen van patronen, daarom heb ik een vraag gesteld hoe ik nu verder moet, ik wil de rand en de mouwen nog maken.

Jerry Degeling 14.10.2019 - 15:22:

Goede middag, Ik wil verder met de rand, ik weet echter niet waar ik moet beginnen met de rand - helaas kan ik geen foto toevoegen bij het berichtje, zodat u kunt zien waar of ik ben. Met vriendelijke groet, Jerry Degeling

DROPS Design 15.10.2019 kl. 15:47:

Dag Jerry,

De rand loopt helemaal rondom de panden en het maakt niet uit waar je begint. Dus je kunt gewoon ergens in een stokje beginnen met haken. Haak dan eerst 3 lossen, welke het eerste stokje (van het stk-groep) vervangt.

Maria 10.10.2019 - 17:32:

Do my job umtil insert the 4 bookmarks. The psttern says that you must work between 1 and 2 marker and continue incrrasing in the groups of pa on each side of the front piece an decrease 2 pa at the beginning pf each row. I still knit all the fabric back and forth?

DROPS Design 11.10.2019 kl. 08:48:

Dear Maria, you continue now each front piece separately, the right front piece between 1st and 2nd marker and the left front piece will be worked later between 3rd and 4th marker. Each front piece is worked then back and forth increasing in the dc-groups as before and decreasing at the beginning of each row (both from RS and WS) to make the rounded front edge. Happy crocheting!

Sheila Bonwick 20.08.2019 - 00:06:

Please disregard my question regarding rnd 23! Totally my misinterpretation!!!

Sheila Bonwick 19.08.2019 - 23:22:

On rnd 23, if you rep 11 time plus 8 plus 8 plus 7 this dose not add up to 273 dcs? Also do you not work the entire rnd?

DROPS Design 20.08.2019 kl. 09:24:

Dear Mrs Bonwick, you won't crochet in the 3-chain-spaces from previous round (except in the very first one at the beg of the round + the last at the end of the round), ie you have to skip these chain-spaces, the number of stitches will then add up at the end of the round. Happy crocheting!

Mette Therkildsen 02.07.2019 - 11:51:

Hejsa skal til række 24 men forstår den ikke. Kan i ikke uddybe det. Kan godt forstå starten men forstår ikke helt det med det skal blandes med A2

DROPS Design 05.07.2019 kl. 13:31:

Hej Mette, Har du set videoen hvor vi viser hvordan man gør?

How to crochet A.2 in DROPS 162-11 from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

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