Rings of Saturn by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS baggy jumper in ”Paris” and ”Cotton Viscose”. Size: S - XXXL

  • Rings of Saturn / DROPS 139-18 - Knitted DROPS baggy jumper in ”Paris” and ”Cotton Viscose”. Size: S - XXXL
DROPS design: Pattern no W-423
Yarn group A and C
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 88-96-106-116-126-138 cm / 34 5/8''-37¾''-41¾''-45¾''-49½''-54¼''
Full length: 73-73-75-75-77-77 cm / 28 3/4"-28 3/4"-29½"-29½"-30½"-30½"

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
Color no 41, mustard: 300-350-400-400-450-500 g
And use: DROPS COTTON VISCOSE from Garnstudio
Color no 17, light beige: 200-200-250-250-300-300 g

DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES size 5.5 mm / US 9 - or size needed to get 16 sts x 20 rows in stockinette st with Paris = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 4.5 mm / US 7 – for garter st and neck edge.


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


100% Cotton
from 1.25 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.55 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.25 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Cotton Viscose DROPS Cotton Viscose
54% Cotton, 46% Viscose
find alternatives
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

* 9-9-9½-9½-9½-9½ cm / 3½"-3½"-3 3/4"-3 3/4"-3 3/4"-3 3/4" in 1 strand Paris, 7-7-7-7-7½-7½ cm / 2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 7/8"-2 7/8" in 1 strand Cotton Viscose *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times.
NOTE: Make sure to work the same no of rows in all stripes in Paris and the same no rows in all stripes in Cotton Viscose. Then finish the piece with Paris (= approx. 9 cm / 3½'').
Cut the yarn after each stripe, leave approx. 25 cm / 10'' and use these yarn ends when assembling the garment.

* 8-8-8-7½-7½-7 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 7/8"-2 7/8"-2 3/4" in 1 strand Paris, 6-6-5½-5½-5-5 cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2 1/4"-2 1/4"-2"-2" in 1 strand Cotton Viscose *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times.
NOTE: Make sure to work the same no of rows in all stripes in Paris and the same no rows in all stripes in Cotton Viscose. Then finish the piece with Paris (= approx. 8-8-7-7-6-6 cm / 3 1/8"-3 1/8"-2 3/4"-2 3/4"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"). Cut the yarn after each stripe, leave approx. 25 cm / 10" and use these yarn ends when assembling the garment.

Worked back and forth on needle.
Cast on 72-78-86-94-102-112 sts on needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 with Paris. Switch to needle size 4.5 mm / US 7 and work 4 rows in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch back to needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 and continue in stockinette st and STRIPES – see explanation above – but continue the outermost 3 sts in garter st for vent. REMEMBER THE GAUGE! When the first 2 stripes have been worked, the vents in each side are finished. Cast on 1 new st in each side for edge st = 74-80-88-96-104-114 sts. Work 4 rows in garter st over the outermost 4 sts in each side (and work the other sts in stockinette st), then continue in stockinette st over all sts but work 1 edge st in garter st in each side until finished measurements. When piece measures approx. 49-49-51-51-52-52 cm / 19 1/4"-19 1/4"-20"-20"-20½"-20½" (a couple of rows in the 4th stripe in Paris should now have been worked), divide the piece in two mid front for V-neck.
Slip sts in one side (= 37-40-44-48-52-57 sts) on a stitch holder. Continue over the remaining sts - AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st towards the neck on every other row a total of 13-13-14-14-15-15 times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 53 cm / 21'' (in all sizes), bind off 1 st in the side for armhole. After all bind offs and dec are done, 23-26-29-33-36-41 sts remain on shoulder. Bind off when 9 cm / 3½'' in Paris have been worked at the top. Now piece measures approx. 73-73-75-75-77-77 cm / 28 3/4"-28 3/4"-29½"-29½"-30½"-30½".
Slip sts on the stitch holder back on needle and work as first side but with dec and bind offs in the opposite side.

Work as front piece but do not dec for V-neck. When piece measures approx. 71-71-73-73-75-75 cm / 28"-28"-28 3/4"-28 3/4"-29 3/4"-29 3/4" (2 cm / 3/4" should remain of last stripe with Paris), bind off the middle 24-24-26-26-28-28 sts for neck.
Finish each shoulder separately. Continue to bind off 1 st on next row towards the neck = 23-26-29-33-36-41 sts remain on the shoulder. Bind off when same no of rows in Paris has been worked as on front piece.

Sew the shoulder seams.
NECK: Start mid front and pick up approx. 128 to 136 sts (divisible by 4) with Paris around the neck on circular needle size 4.5 mm / US 7.
Then work back and forth from mid front as follows: First K 1 row from WS and then K 1 row from RS. Work next row as follows from WS: 1 st in garter st, * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-*, finish with P 2 and 1 st in garter st. From RS as follows: 1 st in garter st, K 2, P 2 etc. When neck edge measures 3.5 cm / 1 1/4", bind off with K over K and P over P.
Place right side of neck over left side of neck and fasten neatly with small stitches in the garter sts from both RS and WS.

Pick up along one armhole (i.e. from where the one st in the side was bind off): 64-64-70-70-76-76 sts with Paris on needle size 5.5 mm / US 9. Then work in stockinette st with 1 edge st in garter st in each side and STRIPES – see explanation above.
AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 2 cm / 3/4'', dec 1 st each side (dec from RS inside edge st by K 2 sts tog).
Repeat dec every 3½-3½-2½-2½-2-2 cm / 1 1/4"-1 1/4"-7/8"-7/8"-3/4"-3/4" a total of 10-10-12-12-14-14 times = 44-44-46-46-48-48 sts.
When sleeve measures 48-48-46-44-42-40 cm / 19"-19"-18"-17 1/4"-16½"-15 3/4" (shorter measurements in the larger sizes because of wider shoulders), switch to needle size 4.5 mm / US 7. Work 4 rows in garter st, switch back to needle size 5.5 mm / US 9 and loosely bind off.
Work another sleeve the same way along the other armhole.

Sew sleeve and side seams in one inside 1 edge st. Use the yarn that were cut off for each stripe. NOTE: Remember the vent at the bottom in each side. Sew tog from where 1 edge st was cast on in each side.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
signature-image signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 139-18) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (32)

country flag Rianne De Vries-Oldenkamp wrote:

Beste hulplijn, Ik heb een vraag over patroon 139-18. Hoeveel garen heb ik voor maat M nodig als ik deze trui van Drops Belle wil gaan maken? Ik kom er met alle tools op jullie website niet uit. Kunt u mijn vraah beantwoorden? Met hartelijke groet, Rianne de Vries

04.05.2022 - 11:24

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Rianne,

Dit kun je het beste omrekenen op basis van de looplengte. Dus je rekent uit wat de totale looplengte van het garen in het patroon is door de looplengte (staat aangegeven bij het betreffende garen) van 1 bol te vermenigvuldigen met het aantal benodigde bollen. Daarna deel je dit getal door de looplengte van het garen dat je wilt gebruiken. Dit getal is het aantal benodigde bollen. Via deze link lees je meer over het vervangen van garen.

09.05.2022 kl. 17:43

country flag Ruth Haus wrote:

Hallo, mehrere Personen haben hier nun schon kommentiert, dass die Angaben zur Menge der Knäuel nicht ganz stimmen. Wurde dies bereits korrigiert oder stehen in der Anleitung noch die Falschen Zahlen? Ich wüsste auch gerne, ob man für beide Farben einfach das Drops Garn verwenden kann, da ich den "löchrigen" Effekt bei der anderen Wolle nicht so schön finde. Danke und freundliche Grüße, Ruth Haus

25.11.2020 - 13:46

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Haus, Garnmenge sollte passen, beachten Sie nur, daß Ihre Maschenprobe - in der Breite sowie in der Höhe stimmt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

26.11.2020 kl. 10:40

country flag Tuisku wrote:

Onko mahdollista neuloa yksivärisenä vain Paris-langalla? Kuinka paljon lankaa silloin tarvittaisiin koko neuleeseen?

22.08.2018 - 00:31

country flag Claudia wrote:

Hallo, wird der erste unterste Streifen vom Maschenanschlag gemessen oder erst ab den fertig gestrickten Krausrippen?

24.02.2015 - 09:38

DROPS Design answered:

Der erste Streifen wird ab dem Anschlag gerechnet, die Krausrippen gehören also schon in den 1. Streifen. Viel Spaß beim Weiterstricken!

24.02.2015 kl. 23:08

country flag Nadine wrote:

Sehr schöner Pulli, allerdings (wie bei Vivianne)stimmten die Garn Mengen nicht. Ich mußte auch von Paris ein Knäuel nachbestellen und habe von Cotton Viscose eins übrig. Sehr ärgerlich wegen dem Porto. Wäre schön wenn Sie die angaben mal ändern würden.

02.07.2014 - 09:28

country flag Zwuck wrote:

Muß ich die Wolle Cotton Viskose doppelt nehmen, oder eine kleinere Nadel dafür? Der Streifen wirkt bei mir sehr "löchrig" im gegensatz zu dem in Paris gestrickten Streifen. Auf dem Foto sieht das nicht so aus. Mache ich was falsch?

31.01.2014 - 08:29

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Zwuck, Cotton Viscose wird weder doppelt noch mit einere kleineren Nadel verstrickt. Der Effekt ist erwünscht und Teil des Designs.

03.02.2014 kl. 08:27

country flag Pernilla wrote:

Hej, jätteläcker tröja! Den del av stickning jag inte tycker om är att montera de olika delarna. Funderar på att sticka fram o bakstycke tillsammans på rundsticka när sprundet är klart och endast strunta i kantmaskorna. Antar att det inte ställer till det alltför mycket för mig? Min egentliga fråga är om jag kan göra detsamma med ärmarna? Sticka upp kring ärmhålet och sätta på strumpstickor, eller finns risken att det blir för tajt? Tack för hjälpen!

14.10.2013 - 16:36

DROPS Design answered:

Så klart du kan :)

15.10.2013 kl. 13:22

country flag Karen wrote:

Passer mængdeangivelsen? Jeg er lige færdig med første stribe Paris, og den tog næsten en hel nøgle.

22.12.2012 - 16:51

DROPS Design answered:

Garnmaengden skulle passe, men kommer du til at mangle og er din strikkefasthed korrekt, saa giv besked.

17.01.2013 kl. 14:45

country flag Vivianne wrote:

Die Berechnung der Garnmenge stimmt nicht. Ich habe Grösse S gestrickt und hatte einen Knäuel von PARIS zuwenig und 1 zuviel von COTTON VISCOSE!! Bitte anpassen!

14.09.2012 - 17:38

country flag Anna Friberg wrote:

Är det en tråd av Paris och två trådar Cotton Viscose?

23.04.2012 - 09:08

DROPS Design answered:

Det er en tråd Cotton Viscose selv om den er Garngruppe A (delen med Cotten Viscose blir bare mere luftig).

24.04.2012 kl. 09:52

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