DROPS Baby / 21 / 14

Lea by DROPS Design

Knitted jacket with wavy edge and textured pattern for baby and children in DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk

Tags: flounce, jackets,
DROPS design: Pattern no BS-002-by
Yarn group A
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Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Size in cm: 56/62 - 68/74 - 80/86 (92 - 98/104)

Materials: DROPS BABY ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-200 (200-250) g colour no 3125, light pink

DROPS STRAIGTH NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 3 mm - or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
DROPS STRAIGHT NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm) SIZE 2.5 mm - for rib.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS LIGHT, NO 503: 5-5-6 (6-7) pieces

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70% Alpaca, 30% Silk
from 2.85 £ /50g
DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour DROPS BabyAlpaca Silk uni colour 2.85 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.55£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
DOUBLE MOSS ST:
1st row: * K 2, P 2 *, repeat from *-*.
2nd row: K over K and P over P.
3rd row: P over K and K over P.
4th row: As 2nd row.
Repeat row 1 to 4.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec as follows before marker: Beg 2 sts before marker. Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso.
Dec as follows after marker: K 2 tog.

GARTER ST (back and forth on needle): K all rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagrams show the pattern from RS.
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JACKET:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 366-394-422 (450-478) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Alpaca Silk. Work rib as follows: 1 st in GARTER ST – see explanation above -, P 2, * K 10, P 4 *, repeat from *-* until 13 sts remain and finish with K 10, P 2 and 1 st in GARTER ST.
Continue like this until 8-8-12 (12-12) rows in rib have been worked.
Now dec 1 st on each side of every K-section by working all K 10 sts as follows (P 4 as before): Slip 1 st as if to K, K 1, psso, K until 2 sts remain, K 2 tog. Repeat dec on every other row a total of 4 times = 158-170-182 (194-206) sts (= K 2/P 4).
Work 1 row from WS with K over K and P over P. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm. Now K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 44-44-40 (40-36) sts evenly = 114-126-142 (154-170) sts. Insert a marker after 29-32-36 (39-43) sts and a marker after 85-94-106 (115-127) sts (marks the mid of the sides). Back piece = 56-62-70 (76-84) sts. Now measure the piece from here.
Continue in stocking st and 1 st in Garter st in each side towards mid front until piece measures 10-11-12 (16-18) cm from marker.
Now work diagram M.1. When diagram M.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in DOUBLE MOSS ST - see explanation above.
When piece measures 18-19-21 (25-28) cm from marker, cast off 6 sts in each side (i.e. 3 sts on each side of every marker) for armholes. Then finish front and back piece separately.

BACK PIECE:
= 50-56-64 (70-78) sts. Continue back and forth in Double moss st. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armholes in each side on every other row: 2 sts 1 time and 1 st 2 times = 42-48-56 (62-70) sts.
When piece measures 21-22-24 (28-31) cm, work diagram M.2 over all sts. When diagram M.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in Double moss st until piece measures 25-27-30 (35-39) cm. Now cast off the middle 20-22-24 (26-28) sts for neck and finish each part separately.
Continue to dec 1 st on the next row towards the neck = 10-12-15 (17-20) sts remain on each shoulder. Continue until piece measures 27-29-32 (37-41) cm from marker. Loosely cast off. Piece measures 32-34-38 (43-47) cm in total.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 26-29-33 (36-40) sts.
Continue back and forth in Double moss st. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for armhole in the side as on back piece = 22-25-29 (32-36) sts. Then when piece measures 21-22-24 (28-31) cm, work diagram M.2 over all sts. When diagram M.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in Double moss st. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 23-25-27 (31-34) cm from marker, slip the 6-7-7 (7-8) sts towards mid front on a stitch holder for neck. Continue to cast off for neck at beg of every row from neck: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-2-3 (4-4) times = 10-12-15 (17-20) sts remain on shoulder. Continue until piece measures 27-29-32 (37-41) cm from marker. Loosely cast off. Piece measures 32-34-38 (43-47) cm in total.


RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work as left front piece but reversed.

SLEEVE:
Cast on 44-44-44 (50-50) sts on needle size 2.5 mm with Baby Alpaca Silk. P 1 row from WS. Then work rib (1st row = from RS) P 4/K 2 with 1 edge st in each side. When rib measures 3-3-4 (4-4) cm, K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-4-4 (8-6) sts evenly = 38-40-40 (42-44) sts. Switch to needle size 3 mm. Work back and forth in stocking st with 1 edge st in each side. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 5 cm, inc 1 st in each side every 4-2½-2 (2-2) cm a total of 3-5-7 (9-10) times = 44-50-54 (60-64) sts.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 11-13-14 (17-19) cm, work diagram M.2. When diagram M.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue in DOUBLE MOSS ST. NOTE! Adjust so that the double moss st is the same on each side when beg to work. Continue to inc in each side – work the inc sts in double moss st.
Work until piece measures 17-19-21 (25-29) cm. Now cast off 3 sts in each side for sleeve cap. Continue to cast off for sleeve cap in each side at beg of every row: 3 sts 0-0-0 (1-1) time, 2 sts 2-3-3 (3-3) times and 1 st 3-1-0 (0-0) times. Then cast off 2 sts in each side until piece measures 21-23-25 (29-33) cm. Now cast off 3 sts in each side 1 time. Piece now measures approx. 22-24-26 (30-34) cm. Cast off the remaining sts.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew sleeve seams tog inside 1 edge st and sew in sleeves.

LEFT BAND:
Beg at top of neck. Knit up 82-86-94 (106-118) sts on needle size 2.5 mm from RS inside 1 edge st down along left front piece. K 1 row from WS. Then work rib as follows (from RS): * P 2, K 2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 sts in GARTER ST. Continue to work like this until band measures approx. 2-2-2 (2½-2½) cm. Loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

RIGHT BAND:
Work as on left band but when rib measures approx. 1 cm, cast off for 5-5-6 (6-7) button holes. Cast off for the upper button hole approx. 1 cm from neck, cast off for bottom button hole approx. 2 cm from bottom edge. Cast off for the other button holes approx. 6-7-6 (7-6) cm apart. All button holes are cast off in 2 P by P 2 tog and making 1 YO. Then work rib as before until it measures approx. 2-2-2 (2½-2½) cm. Loosely cast off sts with K over K and P over P.

COLLAR:
Knit up 68 to 96 sts from RS on needle size 3 mm (incl sts on stitch holders) and incl over band in each side (on band knit up in front loop of outermost st). K 1 row from WS. K 1 row from RS while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting no of sts to 76-84-92 (100-108). K 1 row from WS. Continue in DOUBLE MOSS ST over all sts until piece measures approx. 4 cm. Loosely cast off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 10.09.2019
Correction: Materials: DROPS BABY ALPACA SILK from Garnstudio
150-150-200 (200-250) g colour no 3125, light pink

Diagram

= K from RS, P from WS
= P from RS, K from WS

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-14) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (57)

Lilli Paraskevas 21.08.2019 - 20:11:

Anette har 15.-07.-2019 skrevet at hun har bestilt 200g til den største størrelse, 3/4 år, som der står i opskriften. DET ER FOR LIDT. Jeg beskrev præcis samme problem, som jeg oplevede for 5 år siden Det undrer mig meget, at det stadig IKKE ER RETTET i opskriften Man ærgrer sig jo, når man mangler et ngl. garn - og som jeg oplevede - ikke kunne få samme indfarvning Jeg håber det bliver rettet, da det er en sød model

DROPS Design 10.09.2019 kl. 10:42:

Hej Lilli, Nu er garnforbruget rettet i den største størrelse. Tak for information! :)

Anette 15.07.2019 - 20:50:

Jag stickar den största storleken av tröjan, jag beställde 200 gr som det står men det räcker inte jag har en halv ärm och framkanterna plus kragen kvar.

Silvia 06.04.2019 - 08:02:

Per gli scalfi:" a ogni lato a ferri alterni" si intende che vengono fatti solo sul dritto del lavoro, corretto? Altrimenti la diminuzione della fine del ferro mi farebbe chiudere il lavoro.

DROPS Design 06.04.2019 kl. 09:54:

Buongiorno Silvia. Chiude le maglie da ciascun lato, all’inizio del ferro. P.es sul diritto del lavoro, chiude 2 m all’inizio del ferro, lavora le altre maglie. Gira il lavoro e sul rovescio del lavoro, chiude le prime 2 m per il lato sinistro e lavora tutte le altre maglie sul ferro, e così via. Buon lavoro!

Silvia 29.03.2019 - 08:21:

Problemi con la parte “ 10 dir., 4 rov. *, ripetere da *-* fino a quando rimangono 13 m” Se dir = filo dietro, rov =filo davanti non vengono coste con rasata davanti. Inoltre, se tutti i ferri sono così non vengono coste. Sul dietro si lavora tutto diritto?

DROPS Design 29.03.2019 kl. 14:37:

Buongiorno Silvia. Sul diritto del lavoro, le coste sono 10 m dir, 4 m rov. Quando lavora il ferro di ritorno, lavora le maglie come si presentano, quindi: 10 m rov e 4 m dir. In questo modo si formano le coste nella parte inferiore del cardigan come da fotografia. Il dietro del cardigan ha lo stesso motivo del davanti. Buon lavoro!

JudiS 30.01.2019 - 20:52:

Confused on sleeve- "continue to bind off .. at beg of every row in each side"- am I binding off on both edges of one row or just the beg of every row? "Then bind off 2 its in each side until piece measures..."- is that 4 stitches per row or 2 stitches for 2 rows? Finally, after the 2 sts per row, the piece measure 9 3/4", "bind of 3 sos 1 time in each side, now piece measures 10 1/4"- 2 rows does not equal 1/2". What's missing to bring piece to 10 1/4"? Thanks!

DROPS Design 31.01.2019 kl. 08:15:

Dear JudiS, you will bind off 2 sts at the beginning of each row both from RS and from WS: work 1 RS row binding off the first 2 sts, turn and work 1 WS row binding off the first 2 sts = 2 sts have been bound off on each side. Repeat these 2 rows until sleeve measures 9 84" = 25 cm in 3rd size (the number of times will depend on your tension in height), then bind off 3 sts at the beg of next 2 rows (= 3 sts at the beg of next RS row + 3 sts at the beg of next WS row). Sleeve should now measure 26 cm /10.24" . Happy knitting!

Jenny 07.05.2018 - 22:16:

😜har hittat svaret själv! Har aldrig stickat på detta sättet. Ser framemot att se resultatet.

Jenny Bansch 07.05.2018 - 22:08:

När ska jag sticka knapphål?

DROPS Design 09.05.2018 kl. 13:36:

Hej Jenny, det gör du när du stickar HÖGER FRAMKANT, efter monteringen. Lycka till :)

CARLA KOK 05.01.2018 - 14:16:

Hallo ik wil dit vestje breien maar kan ik dat ook gewoon op 2 naalden breien... kun je me dan vertellen hoe ik dat doe...gr carla kok

DROPS Design 08.01.2018 kl. 10:02:

Hallo Carla, Dat zou kunnen door het voor -en achterpand op te splitsen en later in de zijkant aan elkaar te naaien. Via deze link vind je informatie over het aanpassen van een patroon van rondebreinaalden naar rechte naalden.

Roman 29.10.2017 - 08:32:

Hi, for the diagram M.1,reading it vertically means from the right side and up the diagram? BR/Roman

DROPS Design 30.10.2017 kl. 09:38:

Dear Roman, start reading diagram beginning in the bottom corner on the right side and read towards the left from RS (and from the left towards the right from RS). Happy knitting!

Louise Odendaal 22.10.2017 - 19:30:

Hi there. When knitting the rib, do I reverse the pattern on the wrong side rows, so that actually looks like a rib? ROW 1 (RS): K1, P2, *K10, P4* ROW 2 (WS): K1, K2, *P10, K4* ? Thank you

DROPS Design 22.10.2017 kl. 20:26:

Dear Louise, yes, when you knit the ribbing, on the wrong side rows, you knit stitches as they show themselves.So, if you see a stitch that looks like a purl (it was done as a knit stitch from the RS, you should knit it as a purl. Happy Knitting!

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