DROPS Baby / 21 / 45

Frankie by DROPS Design

Crochet frog in DROPS Paris

Tags: animals, toys,
DROPS design: Pattern no W-014-BN
Yarn group C
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Measurements: approx. height 20 cm / 8''

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 39, pistachio green
Some left-over yarn color no 38, raspberry
Some left-over yarn color no 02, light turquoise
Some left-over yarn color no 15, black

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 16 sc x 18 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

ACCESSORIES: Some poly stuffing for filling

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100% Cotton
from 1.80 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 3.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid holes in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the yarn over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull yarn through loop, ch 1, then work sc's around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side. Continue to work in the round in a circle.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= the first sc from previous round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last sc and first sc on the round, move the marker upwards.

WORKING 2 SC TOG:
* Insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

COLOR CHANGE - SC:
To get a nice color change work last sc on round as follows: Insert hook in last st, get yarn, make a YO with the new color and pull it through all sts on hook. Continue on to next round with the new color.
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HEAD:
Worked in the round in a circle with pistachio green on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Start at the top of head by making a magic circle - Read explanation above.
ROUND 1: Work 8 sc around loop.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc around = 16 sc. Read WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE above.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 24 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 32 sc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 sc in every sc = 32 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 40 sc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sc in every sc = 40 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 48 sc.
ROUND 9-13: Work 1 sc in every sc = 48 sc.
ROUND 14: * 1 sc in the next 6 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog * - Read explanation above, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 42 sc.
ROUND 15: * 1 sc in the next 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 36 sc.
ROUND 16: Work 1 sc in every sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 17: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 30 sc.
ROUND 18: Work 1 sc in every sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 24 sc.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 18 sc.
ROUND 21: * 1 sc in next sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 12 sc.
Cut the yarn and fill the head with some poly stuffing.

EYE:
Worked in the round in a circle with pistachio green on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Start by making a magic circle.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc around loop.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc around = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in the next 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* one more time = 20 sc.
ROUND 5-7: Work 1 sc in every sc = 20 sc.
Cut the yarn and keep 30 cm / 12'' for assembly. Fill the eye with some poly stuffing. Work another eye the same way.

BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle with pistachio green on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Start at the bottom of body by making a magic circle.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc around loop.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc around = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 18 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 24 sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 30 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 36 sc.
ROUND 7: * 1 sc in the next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* around = 42 sc.
ROUND 8-12: Work 1 sc in every sc = 42 sc.
ROUND 13: * 1 sc in the next 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 36 sc.
ROUND 14-15: Work 1 sc in every sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 16: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 30 sc.
ROUND 17-18: Work 1 sc in every sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 24 sc.
ROUND 20: Work 1 sc in every sc = 24 sc.
ROUND 21: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 18 sc.
ROUND 22: Work 1 sc in every sc = 18 sc.
ROUND 23: * 1 sc in next sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* around = 12 sc.
Cut the yarn and keep 30 cm / 12'' for assembly. Fill the body with some poly stuffing.

LEG:
Worked in the round in a circle with raspberry on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Start at edge of leg by making a magic circle.
ROUND 1: Work 5 sc around loop.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc around = 10 sc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 sc in every sc - NOTE: Switch to light turquoise in last st on 4th round - Read COLOR CHANGE - SC above = 10 sc on round.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* one more time = 8 sc.
Then work 1 sc in every sc as follows: * Work 2 rounds with light turquoise, 1 round with pistachio green *, repeat from *-* a total of 4 times (= 12 rounds), then work 2 rounds with light turquoise. Remember to switch color in last st on round.
Cut the yarn and keep 30 cm / 12'' for assembly. Fill leg with some poly stuffing. Work another leg the same way.

ARM:
Worked in the round in a circle with raspberry on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Start at edge of arm by making a magic circle.
ROUND 1: Work 4 sc around loop.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 sc in every sc - NOTE: Switch to pistachio green in last st on 4th round = 8 sc on round.
Then work 1 sc in every sc as follows: * Work 2 rounds with pistachio green, 1 round with light turquoise *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times (= 9 rounds), then work 2 rounds with pistachio green. Remember to switch color in last st on round.
Cut the yarn and keep 30 cm / 12'' for assembly. Fill the arm with some poly stuffing. Work another arm the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the eyes (pistachio green) at the top of head. Sew mouth and eyes with some left-over black, see picture. Sew the head on to body with neat little stitches. Sew the legs and arms on the body.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-45) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Suzie 05.08.2020 - 14:44:

This little frog is the perfect size for a toddler or baby. Supper easy to crochet and assemble. I used dk cotton yarn and enclosed fine poly stuffing in simple cotton fabric bags in case the baby mouths it. Recommend the pattern highly for a beginner!

Mercuri 16.12.2018 - 00:02:

Je vous remercie pour ce tuto crochet gratuit qui est un magnifique modèle. Je suis vraiment ravi.

Birgit Steffen 17.10.2018 - 21:38:

Für eine Bekannte, die Fußballfan von BVB Dortmund ist, habe ich Frankie in gelb und schwarz (drops Paris) nachgearbeitet. Dank der guten Anleitung ist er wirklich gut geworden. Ich würde Ihnen sehr gerne ein Foto schicken. An welche Email Adresse kann ich das Foto schicken? Ich habe kein Facebook, Instagram oder Twitter.

Goyave 19.12.2016 - 18:56:

Je suis débutante en crochet et j'ai trouvé les explications très claires d'autant plus que j'ai vu après réalisation que c'était un modèle pour intermédiaire. Egalement, je trouve votre site est très bien fait.

Anne-Marie 07.04.2016 - 22:29:

Hei, de magiske sirklene mine lager alltid små tupper, slik at hodet og rumpen ble litt spiss. Det ser dessverre litt dumt ut, synes jeg. Har dere et tips hvordan jeg kan unngå dette? Jeg har prøvd å trekke dem mindre stramme, men det hjalp bare litt.

DROPS Design 08.04.2016 kl. 09:10:

Hej Anne-Marie, Har du set vor video med magisk cirkel? Ellers kan du sikkert justere det når du hæfter tråden. God fornøjelse!

Nicole 09.10.2013 - 08:39:

Ihr habt recht! Die Naht sieht nicht schön aus! Ich habe es so gemacht wie angegeben, besser geht's nun mal in Runden nicht. Er ist toll geworden!

Nicole 01.10.2013 - 14:45:

Das mit dem Farbwechsel an den Armen und Beinen finde ich nicht so schön, das sieht nicht sehr sauber aus. Ich werde sie wohl in Reihen häkeln. Das zugefügte Video zeigt übrigens den Farbwechsel beim häkeln in Reihen, und nicht in Runden.

DROPS Design 02.10.2013 kl. 09:01:

Liebe Nicole, wir fanden eine Naht etwas störend bei so kleinen Teilen und empfehlen daher in Runden zu häkeln. Aber vielleicht können Sie in abgeschlossenen Runden häkeln (wie im Video gezeigt!) und nicht spiralförmig - dann wird der Runden-Übergang nicht versetzt. Uns hat dies allerdings noch gefallen (siehe Foto).

Julia 02.09.2013 - 09:06:

Danke für die Antwort. Scheinbar wirken die Farben dann einfach an meinem Monitor nur anders.

Julia 01.09.2013 - 15:50:

Wird hier wirklich in Farbe Pistazie gehäkelt der handelt es sich auf dem Bild um Mint?

DROPS Design 01.09.2013 kl. 17:40:

Liebe Julia, der Körper ist mit Pistazie gehäkelt, die Beine pistazie und helltürkis geringelt. Aber selbstverständlich können Sie Frankie so häkeln, wie es Ihnen am besten gefällt!

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