DROPS Baby / 21 / 42

Pippa by DROPS Design

Crochet Easter bunny with flower in DROPS Paris

Tags: animals, easter, toys,
DROPS design: Pattern no W-017-BN
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Measurements: approx. height 22 cm / 8 3/4''

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
100 g color no 17, off white
Some left-over yarn of following:
color no 06, shocking pink
color no 20, light pink
color no 33, medium pink
color no 15, black

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 - or size needed to get 16 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3 mm / C - for flower and ears.

Accessories: Some poly stuffing for filling

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100% Cotton
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DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 2.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.80 $ /50g
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
MAGIC CIRCLE:
When piece is worked in the round, start with this technique to avoid hole in the middle (instead of ch-ring): Hold the yarn end and wind the yarn one time around the index finger to make a loop. Hold the loop with left thumb and middle finger, place the yarn over left index finger. Insert hook through the loop, make a YO and pull yarn through loop, ch 1, then work sc around the loop. When the desired no of sc have been reached, pull the yarn end to tighten the loop. Fasten the yarn end on the back side. Continue to work in the round in a circle.

WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE:
After last sc on the round, continue to next round with 1 sc in next sc (= first sc on next round). NOTE: Insert a marker at the beg of round between last sc and first sc on the round, move the marker upwards.

WORKING 2 SC TOG:
* Insert hook in next st, get yarn *, repeat from *-* one more time, make a YO and pull yarn through all 3 sts on hook.

COLOR CHANGE - SC:
To get a nice color change work last sc on round as follows: Insert hook in last st, get yarn , make a YO with the new color and pull it through all sts on hook. Continue on to next round with the new color.
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HEAD:
Start at the top of the head by making a Magic circle - READ EXPLANATION ABOVE - on hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Paris off white.
ROUND 1: Work 8 sc in the circle. READ WORK IN THE ROUND IN A CIRCLE.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc = 16 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 32 sc.
ROUND 5: Work 1 sc in every sc = 32 sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 40 sc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sc in every sc = 40 sc.
ROUND 8: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 48 sc.
ROUND 9-12: Work 1 sc in every sc = 48 sc on the round.
ROUND 13: * 1 sc in the next 6 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog * - See explanation above, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 42 sc.
ROUND 14: * 1 sc in the next 5 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 36 sc.
ROUND 15: Work 1 sc in every sc = 36 sc.
ROUND 16: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 30 sc.
ROUND 17: Work 1 sc in every sc = 30 sc.
ROUND 18: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 sc.
ROUND 19: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 sc.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in next sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 12 sc.
Fasten off. Fill the head with some poly stuffing.

BODY:
Start at the bottom of body by making a magic circle in shocking pink.
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc in the circle.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: * 1 sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 sc. Switch to light pink in last sc - READ COLOR CHANGE - SC.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 sc - switch to shocking pink in last sc.
ROUND 5: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 30 sc. Switch to light pink in last sc.
ROUND 6: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 36 sc. Switch to shocking pink in last sc.
ROUND 7: Work 1 sc in every sc = 36 sc. Switch to light pink in last sc.
ROUND 8: Work 1 sc in every sc = 36 sc. Switch to shocking pink in last sc.
ROUND 9: Work as 7th round.
ROUND 10: Work as 8th round.
ROUND 11: Work as 7th round - but switch to off white instead of light pink in last sc.
ROUND 12-13: Work 1 sc in every sc = 36 sc on the round.
ROUND 14: * 1 sc in the next 4 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 30 sc.
ROUND 15-16: Work 1 sc in every sc = 30 sc on the round.
ROUND 17: * 1 sc in the next 3 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 24 sc.
ROUND 18-19: Work 1 sc in every sc = 24 sc on the round.
ROUND 20: * 1 sc in the next 2 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 sc.
ROUND 21: Work 1 sc in every sc = 18 sc.
ROUND 22: * 1 sc in next sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 12 sc.
Cut the yarn and keep 30 cm / 12'' for assembly. Fill the body with some poly stuffing.

LEG:
Start at the bottom of leg by making a magic circle in medium pink.
ROUND 1: Work 4 sc in the circle.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 sc in every sc = 8 sc on round - switch to off white in last sc on 4th round.
ROUND 5-18: Work 1 sc in every sc = 8 sc on the round.
Cut the thread and keep 20 cm / 8'' for assembly. Fill leg with some poly stuffing. Work another leg the same way.

ARM:
Start at the bottom of arm by making a magic circle in medium pink on hook size 4 mm / G/6. Work as ROUND 1-4 for leg.
ROUND 5: Work 1 sc in the next 6 sc, then crochet the next 2 sc tog = 7 sc.
ROUND 6-15: Work 1 sc in every sc = 7 sc on the round.
Cut the thread and keep 20 cm / 8'' for assembly. Fill half the arm with some poly stuffing. Work another arm the same way.

TAIL:
Start by making a magic circle with light pink on hook size 4 mm / G/6.
ROUND 1: Work 4 sc in the circle.
ROUND 2: 2 sc in every sc = 8 sc.
ROUND 3-4: Work 1 sc in every sc = 8 sc on the round.
Cut the thread and keep 20 cm / 8'' for assembly (do not fill with poly stuffing).

EAR:
Start at the bottom of the ear by ch 8 (i.e 7 ch + 1 ch to turn with) on hook size 3 mm / C with off white.
ROW 1: Work 1 sc in every ch starting in 2nd ch on hook = 7 sc. Turn piece.
ROW 2-8: ch 1, 1 sc in every sc, turn piece = 7 sc on row.
ROW 9: ch 1, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in the next 4 sc, skip next sc, 1 sc in last sc = 5 sc. Turn piece.
ROW 10: ch 1, 1 sc in every sc = 5 sc. Turn piece.
ROW 11: ch 1, skip 1st sc, 1 sc in the next 2 sc, skip next sc, 1 sc in last sc = 3 sc. Turn piece.
ROW 12: ch 1, skip 1st sc, work the next 2 sc tog = 1 sc.
Fasten off. Work another ear the same way.

FLOWER:
Work on hook size 3 mm / C with shocking pink as follows:
ROUND 1: ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Ch 1, then work 6 sc in ch-ring, finish round and switch to light pink as follows: insert hook in 1st sc on round, make a YO with light pink and pull the new yarn through all sts on hook.
ROUND 2: * ch 4, 1 sl st in next sc from 1st round *. Repeat from *-* a total of 5 times. Then ch 4, finish round and switch to shocking pink as follows: Insert hook in 1st sc on 1st round, make a YO with shocking pink and pull the new yarn through all sts on hook = 6 leaves in light pink.
ROUND 3: * ch 5, fold next leaf from 2nd round towards you and work on the back of the leaf as follows: Insert hook in next sc from 1st round (to the right of sl st from 2nd round), 1 sl st *. Repeat from *-* a total of 5 times, finish with ch 5 and 1 sl st in 1st sc from 1st round = 6 leaves in shocking pink. Cut the yarn and keep 20 cm / 8'' for assembly.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold the bottom of the ears on the middle and sew on to the head. Sew the flower below one ear. Sew a cross for nose with medium pink and eyes with black. Sew the head on to body with neat little stitches.
Sew the legs and the arms on to each side of body with neat little stitches. Sew the tail to the back of body.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 21-42) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (9)

Jane 01.02.2019 - 07:39:

Found someone selling this pattern on Etsy Seller: Souvenirstoys

Jessica 02.12.2017 - 15:22:

Ce n'est pas Patty mais Pippa. Cdlt,

Jessica 02.12.2017 - 15:21:

Bonjour, Je vous informe que vous avez deux fois le même patron en ligne : miss mew et patty. A bientot

Patricia 23.02.2015 - 08:12:

Bonjour, je ne comprends rien aux explications concernant la fleur ? Pouvez-vous m'aider s'il vous plaît ? Avec mes remerciements

DROPS Design 23.02.2015 kl. 14:08:

Bonjour Patricia, on commence par un rond de 6 ms, on ferme ce rond avec l'autre couleur (pour que le changement de couleur soit plus joli), puis on crée les pétales avec 4 ml, 1 mc dans la ms suiv tout le tour, on termine le tour avec 1 mc dans la 1ère ms (du tour 1) avec la nouvelle couleur. On crochète ensuite des arceaux de 5 ml, 1 mc dans la ms du tour 1 en piquant le crochet derrière la 1ère rangée de pétales. Bon crochet!

Lotte W S 17.11.2014 - 10:08:

Tak for mange gode opskrifter og hjælp! Mener ikke at antallet af masker angivet i slutningen af hver række kan stemme overens med fremgangsmåden. Har man 24 masker og tilføjer en maske til hver 2. må man få 12 masker mere, dvs. 36 og ikke 32. Skal jeg ende med 36 eller blot tilføje en maske til hver 3.? Tak på forhånd :)

DROPS Design 25.11.2014 kl. 15:18:

Hej Lotte, Er det 4.omg på hovedet du mener, så står der således: 4.OMG: * 1 fm i næste 2 fm, 2 fm i næste fm *, gentag fra *-* omg rundt = 32 fm. det vil sige udtagning i hver 3.

Christina Truetsch 16.10.2013 - 09:59:

Hallo! Ich verstehe nicht ganz wie das mit dem Schwanz gemeint ist: ich soll unten am Körper mit einem Magic Circle beginnen, soll ich den gleich annähen? Und das wird ja ein Kreis, wie soll der dann ausschauen? Wie ein Bommel oder wird der Kreis flach aufgenäht? Vielen Dank für ihre Hilfe!

DROPS Design 17.10.2013 kl. 07:07:

Liebe Christina, der Anfang des Schwanzes mit dem Magic Circle ist nicht zum Körper zu, sondern aussen. Nähen Sie den Kreis dann flach (und ungefüllt) mit der letzten Rd zum Körper an.

Stefania 08.06.2013 - 15:40:

è possibile fare i modelli gratis in versione pdf ? grazie mille

DROPS Design 09.06.2013 kl. 18:28:

Buongiorno, i modelli non sono disponibili in versione pdf; in ogni modello è presente comunque il bottone per la stampa, cliccando quello apparirà una finestra con la versione stampabile del modello. In alternativa è possibile comunque selezionare il testo e copiarlo su un foglio di testo, se vuole conservarlo. Buon lavoro!

Hanna 18.12.2012 - 23:21:

Stor tumme upp för detta mönstret. Inga som helst frågetecken & den blev superfin & precis som den ser ut på bilden. Stående ovationer.

Silje 25.08.2012 - 20:35:

Made this in an even thinner yarn so it became a bit smaller. Easy to make as long as you know how to make a “magic circle” (watch the video). I used the most time putting it together since I wanted the arms and legs to be a bit loose, but not so they would fall off.

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