DROPS / 132 / 2

Wild Flower by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS jacket worked in a circle in ”Nepal”. Size: S to XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no NE-061
Yarn group C
--------------------------------------------------------
Size: S/M - L/XL - XXL/XXXL

Materials: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
color no 612m, medium brown
600-700-800 g (= 12-14-16 skeins)

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 5 mm / H/8 – or size needed to get 14 tr x 5½ rows with tr vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Nepal uni colour DROPS Nepal uni colour 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Nepal mix DROPS Nepal mix 4.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 46.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET TIP:
Replace first tr on every round/row with ch 4.

DECREASE TIP 1 (applies to the body):
Dec as follows: Work tr until 3 tr remain, * in the first of these work 1 dc, in the next 1 hdc and in the last 1 sc, turn with ch 1, skip sc, work 1 sl st in hdc and 1 sl st in dc, then 1 sc in first tr, 1 hdc in next tr and 1 dc in next tr, work tr until 3 tr remain at end of row *, repeat from *-* until a total of 6-8-12 rows have been worked.

DECREASE TIP 2 (applies to sleeve cap):
Dec at beg of row by working sl st over the no of tr to be dec. Dec at end of row by working until same no of sts to be dec remains, turn piece.
--------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked in the round in a circle from mid back.
Ch 8 on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Nepal and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 1:
Work 12 sc in ch-ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
ROUND 2:
ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * 1 dc in next sc, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 12 dc with 2 ch between each.
ROUND 3:
1 ch, continue to crochet as follows in every ch-space the entire round: 1 sc + ch 1 + 1 sc + ch 1, finish round with 1 sl st in first ch = 24 sc with 1 ch between each.
ROUND 4:
1 sl st in first sc, 1 sl st in first ch, ch 5, 1 dtr in same ch, * ch 7, then work 4 dtr tog as follows: Work 2 dtr in same ch as last dtr but wait with last YO and pull through on both dtr, skip 1 sc + 1 ch + 1 sc, work 1 dtr in next ch but wait with last YO and pull through, then work last dtr in same ch and pull last YO through all 5 sts on hook *, repeat from *-* a total of 11 times, ch 7, work 2 dtr tog in same ch (but wait with last YO and pull through on both), work 1 sl st in 5th ch from beg of round and pull thread through all 3 sts on hook.
ROUND 5:
1 sl st in first ch-space, ch 4 (= 1 tr), 7 tr in same ch-space, then work 8 tr in every ch-space, finish with 1 sl st in 4th ch from beg of round = a total of 96 tr.
ROUND 6:
ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 48 ch-spaces.
ROUND 7 – READ CROCHET TIP:
Work 1 tr in every dc and work 1 and 2 tr alternately in every ch-space the entire round = 120 tr.
ROUND 8:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 10th tr = 132 tr.
ROUND 9:
ch 5 (= 1 dc + 2 ch), * skip 1 tr, 1 dc in next tr, ch 2 *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 66 ch-spaces.
ROUND 10:
Work 1 tr in every dc and work 1 and 2 tr alternately in every ch-space the entire round = 165 tr.
ROUND 11:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 15th tr = 176 tr.
ROUND 12:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 16th tr = 187 tr.
Piece measures approx. 20 cm / 8'' from center and outwards.

SIZE S/M:
ROUND 13:
ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 45 tr (= up towards neck), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 88 tr (= down towards back), ch 30 loosely, skip the next 27 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 45 sc (= 47 tr), then work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 88 sc (= 91 tr), and work 30 tr in ch-row over armhole = 198 tr.
ROUND 15 to 19:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 19th round there are 228 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 33 cm / 13'' from center and outwards.
Continue working only over 79 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 35 tr at top by neck or 35 tr at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation under FRONT PIECE.

SIZE L/XL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr.
ROUND 14:
ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 50 tr (= up towards neck), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 90 tr (= down towards back), ch 32 loosely, skip the next 29 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 15:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 3 tr evenly over the first 50 sc (= 53 tr), then work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 90 sc (= 93 tr), and work 32 tr in ch-row over armhole = 210 tr.
ROUND 16 to 20:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 20th round there are 240 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 35 cm / 13 3/4'' from center and outwards.
Continue working only over 81 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 39 tr at top by neck or 39 tr at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation under FRONT PIECE.

SIZE XXL and XXXL:
ROUND 13:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 17th tr = 198 tr.
ROUND 14:
Work 1 tr in every tr but work 2 tr in every 18th tr = 209 tr.
ROUND 15:
ch 1, then work 1 sc in each of the first 54 tr (= up towards neck), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole), then work 1 sc in each of the next 91 tr (= down towards back), ch 36 loosely, skip the next 32 tr (= armhole) and fasten with 1 sl st in first sc on round.
ROUND 16:
Work 1 tr in every sc - but inc 2 tr evenly over the first 54 sc (= 56 tr), then work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole, work 1 tr in every sc – but inc 3 tr evenly over the bottom 91 sc (= 94 tr), and work 36 tr in ch-row over armhole = 222 tr.
ROUND 17 to 22:
Continue with tr – while at the same time inc 6 tr evenly on every round. After 22nd round there are 258 tr on the round and piece measures approx. 37 cm / 14½'' from center and outwards.
Continue working only over 89 tr in each side – i.e. do not work over 40 tr at top by neck or 40 tr at bottom of back.
Continue with explanation under FRONT PIECE.


LEFT FRONT PIECE - ALL SIZES:
= 79-81-89 tr. Insert a marker after 23-24-27 sts in from each side (= 33-33-35 sts between markers). Then work tr back and forth over these sts while at the same time inc 1 st at every marker on every row (i.e. inc 2 sts on row, inc alternately before and after marker) and dec 3 sts at beg and end of every row in each side – SEE DECREASE TIP 1 until a total of 6-8-12 rows back and forth have been worked.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Work same way as on left piece over 79-81-89 tr in right side.

SLEEVE (worked back and forth):
Ch 46-48-53 loosely (includes 4 ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm / H/8 with Nepal.
ROW 1: 1 tr in 5th ch from hook, 1 tr in each of the next 2-4-2 ch, * skip ch 1, 1 tr in each of the next 6 ch *, repeat from *-* until 4 ch remain, skip 1 ch and work 1 tr in each of the last 3 ch = 37-39-43 tr.
ROW 2: 1 tr in every tr – READ CROCHET TIP!
ROW 3: ch 6 (= 1 tr + 2 ch), skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr, * ch 2, skip 1 tr, 1 tr in next tr *, repeat from *-* the entire row = 18-19-21 ch-spaces.
ROW 4: Work 1 tr in every tr and 1 tr in every ch-space = 37-39-43 tr.
Repeat row 2-4 a total of 3 times. Piece measures approx. 18 cm / 7''. Then work tr on all rows until finished measurements, while at the same time inc as follows:
SIZE S/M:
* Inc 1 tr in one side by working 2 tr in next to last tr. On next row inc 1 tr in the other side the same way. Inc 1 more time the same way in each side, then work 1 row without inc *, repeat from *-* a total of 3 times = 12 inc = 49 tr.
SIZE L/XL + XXL/XXXL:
* Inc 1 tr in one side by working 2 tr in next to last tr. On next row inc 1 tr in the other side the same way *, repeat from *-* a total of 8 times = 16 inc = 55-59 tr.
ALL SIZES:
Continue to work until piece measures 49 cm / 19 1/4'' in all sizes.
Now dec on every row in each side for sleeve cap – SEE DECREASE TIP 2: 3 tr 1 time, 2 tr 3 times and 3 tr 1 time = 25-31-35 tr remain at the top. Fasten off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew sleeve seams tog edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam.
Work 1 round around the entire body and at bottom of sleeves as follows: * ch 5, 1 dc in first ch, skip 1 st, fasten with 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-* the entire round and finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
Sew in the sleeves.

If desired, close the jacket with a pin or sew on a button on to left front piece (try the jacket on to see where button should be) and button it in crochet edge.




Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 132-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (422)

Myssed 17.06.2020 - 20:22:

Bonjour, je le remet en question car je ne sais pas si vous répondez aux commentaires. Pour le premier rang des devants je commence les diminutions à la fin du premier rang ou j'en fait dès le départ, si oui comment je procède ?

DROPS Design 18.06.2020 kl. 09:40:

Bonjour Mme Myssed, vous commencez à diminuer dès la fin du 1er rang - cf DIMINUTIONS-1. puis au début et à la fin de chaque rang. Bon crochet!

Myssed 17.06.2020 - 20:20:

Bonjour, pour les devants, au premier rang au début je dois faire des diminutions ou je commence les diminutions qu'à partir de la fin du premier rang ? merci =)

Laure 28.05.2020 - 08:50:

Bonjour, je suis au niveau des manches ou emmanchures. J ai finit ma manche et je dois la raccorder à la veste mais je suis coincé. En effet... J ai 2 fois 30 mailles sur la veste (trou pour le bras) et seulement 25 mailles de la manches pour raccorder. Comment se fait le raccord ? Je vous remercie pour l aide et ce très beau patron. Laure

DROPS Design 28.05.2020 kl. 09:13:

Bonjour Laure, placez votre manche avec le bas de la manche au niveau de l'emmanchure, épinglez ou faufilez si besoin, la manche va s'intégrer parfaitement à l'emmanchure (en S/M vous devez avoir sauté 27 mailles et non 25) . Bon crochet!

Laura 17.04.2020 - 04:53:

Hi, I need help with the increases in the front panels. Do I alternate increasing before and after the markers from row to row (eg., increase before both markers on row 1 and after both markers on row 2)? Or do I alternate within the same row (eg., before the first marker but after the second marker?) Also, am I increasing in the stitch before /after the marker or using the first / second stitch of the increase in the row below?

DROPS Design 17.04.2020 kl. 09:19:

Dear Laura, you will increase alternately on each row, ie first increase before both markers, then on next row increase after both markers and so on. Happy crocheting!

Terry 16.04.2020 - 04:42:

I’m loving the way this jacket is turning out. It is beautiful! The pattern’s hard to understand, especially the front panels. I finally understood how you do it. You mark out your stitches for the front panel, mine is 81 for the size large, with 39 unworked at the neck and the bottom. Within your 81 stitches you place the markers for the increases: count 24 from each end of your 81 towards the middle and place a marker. On each row you increase at those markers. Dec at beg and end of row

Francine Boeckx 06.04.2020 - 21:10:

Hallo! Ik heb erg gezocht maar heb geen antwoord gevonden op mijn vraag nl van waar begin ik het voorpand te haken? Vanaf de hals of vanaf de onderkant? Dank voor je opheldering! Groetjes! Francine

DROPS Design 16.04.2020 kl. 12:24:

Dag Francine,

In wezen maakt dit niet uit omdat je nu heen en weer haakt, maar ik zou er dan wel voor zorgen dat je de verkeerde en goede kant bij beide voorpanden hetzelfde hebt. Dat betekent dus als je bij het rechter voorpand aan de halskant begint, dat je bij het linker voorpand aan de onderkant zou moeten beginnen.

Myssed 03.04.2020 - 23:03:

Bonjour, Tour 15 il faut piquer dans les brins de la chaînette des emmanchures ou juste faire comme si c'était un arceau et du coup faire les mailles autour de la chaînette ?

Kharma-Sel Barrowclough 29.03.2020 - 12:11:

I'm still confused about where the markers go. My round ends at the top of the right hand arm hole. If I count 23 from there it means that the top 35 for neck over laps the left arm hole and makes it all wonkey. In order to get 35 top and bottom and 79 sides evenly my markers are 10 stitches left of starting tr and that I need to cut the yarn and re cast on to start on the left. Is this the case? any chance of pics or vid to show eactly how to place markers and transition to front pieces?

DROPS Design 30.03.2020 kl. 10:28:

Dear Mrs Barrowclough, fold your circle in double so that armholes are the one over the other one, and mark mid top and mid bottom, now you can count the middle 35 sts on top and the middle 35 sts on bottom and get the 79 sts on each side you will work on (cut the yarn and join it again where you should). Happy crocheting!

Ainsley 18.07.2019 - 05:54:

The first instruction is to not work over the top and bottom 35st But moving onto the “front piece” instructions “79tr insert marker after 23st from each side(33st between markers)” I understand how to dec but I’m not clear on where to place my markers if I am still working in the round or starting at a marker point Folding the circle in half using the top of the arm hole I get 35 on top/bottom w/ 79st between markers

DROPS Design 18.07.2019 kl. 10:42:

Dear Ainsley, the front piece will be now worked back and forth separately over the 79 sts on each side (leaving the bottom 35 sts and the top 35 sts unworked) see front pieces on measurement chart. Insert 2 markers 23 sts from each side = count 23 sts, add a marker here, count 23 sts, add a marker here. Increase now 1 st at each marker (= 2 sts increased) alternately before and after markers and at the same time decrease at the beg and end of row as explained under DECREASE TIP 1. Happy crocheting!

AinsleySara 18.07.2019 - 05:53:

The first instruction is to not work over the top and bottom 35st But moving onto the “front piece” instructions “79tr insert marker after 23st from each side(33st between markers)” I understand how to dec but I’m not clear on where to place my markers if I am still working in the round or starting at a marker point Folding the circle in half using the top of the arm hole I get 35 on top/bottom w/ 79st between markers

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 132-2

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.