DROPS / 130 / 31

DROPS 130-31 by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS vest with bobbles and lace edges in "Muskat". Size: S - XXXL.

DROPS design: Pattern no R-589
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-90-98-106-118-130 cm / 32 1/4"-35½"-38½"-41 3/4-46½"-51"
Full length: 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17 ¼''

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
Color no 61, light beige: 300-300-350-400-400-450 g

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 3.5 mm/E/4 – or size needed to get 20 dc x 10 rows vertically = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
CROCHET INFO:
Replace first dc at beg of every dc row with ch 3, finish the row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beg of previous row.

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. NOTE: 1st row in M.1 = RS.

INCREASE TIP 1 (when inc 2 dc for rounded front edge):
Inc 2 dc for rounded front edge at the end of every row towards mid front as follows: Work ch 4, turn piece, work 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (there are now 2 dc at beg of row = 3 ch + 1 dc), then continue working row as before. At the end of next row towards mid front, work 1 hdc in last dc (instead of 1 dc in last dc) before inc new sts for rounded front edge. This is done to avoid a very jagged edge on the rounded front edge.

INCREASE TIP 2 (when inc 1 dc):
Inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in same dc.

DECREASE TIP 1:
Dec 1 dc by working 2 dc tog as follows: Work 1 dc but wait with last YO and pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dc but pull last YO through all 3 sts on hook (= dec 1 dc).

DECREASE TIP 2:
When dec several dc at the same time at the armhole, dec as follows:
At beg of row: Replace no of dc to be dec with 1 sl st in every dc.
At end of row: Turn piece when no of dc to be dec remains and continue working as before.
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BACK PIECE:
Ch 91-102-112-123-139-155 on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Muskat.
WORK 1ST ROW FROM RS AS FOLLOWS: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, * skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* until 3-2-4-3-3-3 ch remain, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 2-1-3-2-2-2 ch = 67-75-83-91-103-115 dc on row, turn piece.
2ND ROW (= WS): READ CROCHET INFO!
Work 1 dc in every dc, turn piece.
Continue to work M.1 - NOTE: Arrow in diagram marks mid back, i.e. there should be 1 bobble in the middle st mid back, count out towards the side to find where to start in diagram.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2-3-3-4-5-6 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8", inc 1 dc in each side - READ INCREASE TIP 2. Repeat the inc in each side on every other row a total of 7 times = 81-89-97-105-117-129 dc. When piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'', dec for armholes at the beg and end of every row (i.e. dec from both RS and WS) - READ DECREASE TIP 2: 5-5-7-7-10-12 dc 1 time, 2 dc a total of 3-4-4-4-4-5 times and then 1 dc a total of 2-2-2-4-5-5 times = 55-59-63-67-71-75 dc.
When piece measures 32-34-36-38-40-42 cm / 12½''-13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½'', work shoulder as follows: Work 17-17-19-19-21-21 dc at beg of row, turn piece, dec 1 dc at beg of row by working the first 2 dc tog and work the rest of the row = 16-16-18-18-20-20 dc. Cut and fasten the thread, the piece measures approx. 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼''. Repeat along the other shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Worked back and forth with start from mid front.
READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING!
Ch 30-34-36-42-48-54 on hook size 3.5 mm/E/4 with Muskat.
WORK 1ST ROW FROM RS AS FOLLOWS: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, * skip ch 1, 1 dc in each of the next 3 ch *, repeat from *-* until 2-2-4-2-4-2 ch remain, skip 1 ch and finish with 1 dc in each of the last 1-1-3-1-3-1 ch = 21-24-26-30-35-39 dc on row, turn piece.
2ND ROW (= WS): READ CROCHET INFO!
Work 1 dc in every dc while AT THE SAME TIME inc 2 dc at the end of row towards mid front - READ INCREASE TIP 1.
INC IN THE SIDE AND MID FRONT:
When piece measures 2-3-3-4-5-6 cm / 3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½"-2"-2 3/8", inc 1 dc in the side - READ INCREASE TIP 2. Repeat inc in the side on every other row a total of 7 times.
AT THE SAME TIME after 2nd row, work M.1 - NOTE: The last bobble towards the side should be as many dc from side as on back piece, count outwards from the side to find where to start in the diagram from mid front. AT THE SAME TIME inc at the end of every row towards mid front as follows: Inc 2 dc a total of 4-4-5-5-5-6 times (incl inc on 2nd row), and then 1 dc a total of 4-5-5-5-6-6 times - READ INCREASE TIP 2.
NECKLINE:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 15-16-17-18-19-20 cm / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'' / 6''-6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8'', dec 1 dc towards mid front - READ DECREASE TIP 1. Repeat dec towards mid front on every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) a total of 8-10-10-13-13-15 times, then on every other row a total of 3-3-3-2-2-2 times.
ARMHOLES:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 16-17-18-19-20-21 cm / 6¼''-6¾''-7''-7½''-8''-8¼'' (measured in the side), dec for armhole in the side on every row (i.e. from both RS and WS) as on back piece.
After all dec for neckline and armhole are done, 16-16-18-18-20-20 dc remain on row. Continue the pattern until piece measures 34-36-38-40-42-44 cm / 13 3/8''-14¼''-15''-15¾''-16½''-17¼'' - adjust so that front and back piece are the same length. Fasten off.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Work as right front piece but reversed, i.e. start from the side.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams edge to edge with neat little stitches. Sew side seams edge to edge the same way.

CROCHET LACE EDGE:
Work a lace edge around both armholes on with Muskat as follows:
ROUND 1: Start from RS and work 1 sc in first st, * ch 1, skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* the entire round - NOTE: This round should even out the armhole, skip more or fewer sts if needed.
ROUND 2: Work 1 sc in every sc and 1 sc in every ch the entire round while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sc so that it can be divided by 8.
ROUND 3 + 4: Work M.2 - NOTE: Start on the round marked with an arrow in the diagram. Finish 3rd round with 1 sl st in 2nd ch from beg of round and finish 4th round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.

Work the same lace edge around the entire opening of the vest -
NOTE: Make sure that the edge is even and pretty around the entire opening.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

= ch 1
= 1 sc
= 1 dc
= 1 BOBBLE: Work 6 tr tog in the same st as follows: Work 1 tr but wait with last pull through (= 2 sts on hook), work another 1 tr in the same st but wait with last pull through (= 3 sts on hook), continue like this until 6 tr have been worked this way and pull last YO through all 7 sts on hook


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 130-31) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (30)

Crochet Vest 30.06.2019 - 21:18:

Name it fancy bobble cropped vest.

Nir Halfon 19.02.2018 - 22:59:

Hello, When working on the Right Front Piece towards mid front do I use increase tip 1 only once for row 2? or for every row towards mid front. Later instructions state I should use increase tip 2. Thanks, Nir

DROPS Design 20.02.2018 kl. 08:42:

Dear Mrs Halfon, increase tip 1 is made at the end of row from WS to increase 2 sts towards mid front. Increase tip 2 is used when increasing 1 st for the side. Happy crocheting!

Raji Ajith 12.07.2016 - 11:21:

Hello... I need help for increasing tip 1.. To start row with ,4 chain and DC in the 4 th chain... 2 DC made... end of next row did I have to put 2dc and 1 hdc I. The last DC... or only 1 hdc Thank you

DROPS Design 12.07.2016 kl. 13:10:

Dear Mrs Ajith, at the end of row towards mid front, work 1 hdc in the last dc (instead of 1 dc in last dc), turn and inc as before with 4 ch, 1 dc in 4th chain from hook, 1 dc in next dc, etc. Happy crocheting!

Constanze 04.08.2014 - 17:23:

Ich habe ein Verständnisproblem beim Rückenteil. Dort steht nach x cm während des Noppenteils Maschen aufnehmen soll - soweit okay. Dass hätte ich jetzt über die 16 cm gemacht. Was hat das mit den 7x 97 Stäbchen auf sich ?

DROPS Design 04.08.2014 kl. 19:58:

Liebe Constanze, wenn die Arbeit 3 cm misst, nehmen beidseitig je 1 Stb zu, diese Zunahmen wiederholen Sie in jeder 2. R. Insgesamt arbeiten Sie diese Zunahmen 7x, d.h. Sie haben dann insgesamt 14 Stb zugenommen. Vorher hatten Sie ja 83 Stb, nach den Zunahmen haben Sie dann 97 Stb insgesamt. Bei einer Gesamtlänge von 18 cm arbeiten Sie dann die Armausschnitte, darauf bezieht sich nämlich die nächste Maßangabe, sie hat mit den Zunahmen nichts zu tun.

Tamara 30.03.2014 - 16:31:

Ik zou het gilet graag maken voor mijn dochters, ze hebben maat 110-116 en 128. Ik heb alleen geen idee hoe ik dit patroon kan omrekenen naar kindermaten. Kan iemand mij daar mee helpen, of is er een versie voor kinderen beschikbaar?

DROPS Design 01.04.2014 kl. 17:53:

Hoi Tamara. We hebben helaas niet een soortgelijk patroon voor kinderen. Je kan het patroon kleiner maken met hulp van de haakstekenverhouding (aantal stk in de breedte x toeren in de hoogte per 10 x 10 cm). Je weet hoe groot de kleinste maat is en kan vervolgens minder rekenen. Ik kan je helaas niet helpen met individuele aanpassingen, maar je mag ook altijd vragen bij jouw DROPS verkooppunt of één van de vele handwerkforums. Veel haakplezier.

Rumpel 14.08.2013 - 03:19:

Please help me with the right front piece, i don't understand much.how to inc tip 1 on 2nd row? does it mean that making 1 more dc in the next row, not 2nd row?

DROPS Design 14.08.2013 kl. 09:59:

Dear Rumpel, at beg of row from mid front, you will inc making 4 ch, 1 dc in 4th ch from hook (=first 3 ch= 1st dc (us - uk tr), we have here 2 dc), at the end of row from side towards mid front, crochet 1 hdc (us - uk htr) in the last dc to get a smoother curve. Happy crocheting!

Wijntje 14.04.2013 - 13:52:

Er staat in het patroon: 1 stk in de 4e l van de haak, * sla 1 l over, 1 stk in iedere van de volgende 3 l *, herhaal herhaal van *-*... Je haakt dus eerst 1 stk in de 4 l. Daarna sla je eerst 1 l over en haakt 1 stk in IEDERE van de volgende 3 l. Je haakt dus in elke 3 l 1 st een slaat elke 4e l over. Volgens mij klopt dit niet ik kom niet aan het aantal stokjes en het staat bol omdat er te veel lossen worden overgeslagen

DROPS Design 16.04.2013 kl. 21:19:

Het patroon klopt. Bijvoorbeeld maat S. Je hebt 91 l. Haak 1 stk in de 4 l van de nld (= 2 stk). Dan sla je 1 l over en 1 stk in elk van de volgende 3 l (= 3 stk per 4 l), dat wordt 21 keer 3 stk per 4 l (= 63 stk) en je hebt dan ook 2 l. Hier haak je 1 stk in elke l = 67 stk op de toer. Bekijk ook of je stekenverhouding correct is ;o). Veel haakplezie verder.

Ntref 02.12.2012 - 12:24:

Hallo,ik snap he niet zo goed! er staat 1L overslaan dan in de 3e L stk en herhaal dus dat is eigenlijk in elke 4eL een stokje maar dan krijg ik te weinig stokjes?

DROPS Design 03.12.2012 kl. 15:47:

Er staat in het patroon: 1 stk in de 4e l van de haak, * sla 1 l over, 1 stk in iedere van de volgende 3 l *, herhaal herhaal van *-*... Je haakt dus eerst 1 stk in de 4 l. Daarna sla je eerst 1 l over en haakt 1 stk in IEDERE van de volgende 3 l. Je haakt dus in elke 3 l 1 st een slaat elke 4e l over.

Michelle Meyers 06.09.2012 - 01:00:

Re: Inc Tip 1. It seems like you are increasing at the beginning of the row which starts at the mid front. To increase 9 times (for Med) it would require a minimum of 19 rows which would exceed the 16 cm length at which neckline decreases begin. What am I missing?

DROPS Design 12.11.2012 kl. 11:18:

Dear Mrs Meyers, Inc Tip 1 includes both inc at beg of row and at the end of row towards mid front. So that you will inc each row. Happy Crocheting !

Deloris 09.07.2012 - 12:13:

I need a chart for the sides. Is one available?

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