DROPS / 128 / 1

Dance With Me by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS dress with skirt worked from side to side with short rows and stripes, and knitted top in stockinette st with round yoke in "Fabel". Size: S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no FA-137
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Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 80-90-98-108-118-128 cm / 31½"-35½"-38½"-42½"-46½"-50½"
Full length: 82-85-88-91-94-97 cm / 32 1/4"-33½"-34 5/8"-35 3/4"-37"-38 1/4"

Materials: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
Color no 604, ocean view: 450-500-550-600-650-750 g
Color no 100, off white: 50-50-50-100-100-100 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLES (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm /US 2or 3 - or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'' and 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (60 cm / 24'') SIZE 2.5 mm / US 1or2- for edges.

DROPS CROCHET HOOK SIZE 2.5 mm / C/2 - for ties and cones.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
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DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.80$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
GARTER ST (in the round): *K 1 round and P 1 round*, repeat from *-*.

INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st by making 1 YO, on next row knit YO twisted (i.e. work in the back loop of st instead front) to avoid holes.

DECREASE TIP:
Dec by K 2 sts tog.
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DRESS:
Beg by working a skirt back and forth on circular needle from side to side. To give the skirt width at the bottom work with short rows. Then work round yoke.

LOOSELY cast on 132-134-136-140-142-144 sts on 2 circular needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 with 604, ocean view (to avoid a tight cast on edge). Pull out one of the needles and work as explained below.

The entire skirt is worked in Garter st, i.e. K all rows.
Work first row as follows (from waist down = WS):
Work 8-10-12-14-16-18 sts, insert MARKER 1,
work 14-14-14-16-16-16 sts, insert MARKER 2,
work 18 sts, insert MARKER 3,
work 10 sts, insert MARKER 4,
work 10 sts, insert MARKER 5,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 6,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 7,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 8,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 9,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 10,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 11,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 12,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 13,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 14,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 15,
work 6 sts, insert MARKER 16,
work the remaining 6 sts.
Move the markers upwards when working.
Continue to work with short rows (NOTE! Tighten the thread on every turn in mid of piece before continuing, to avoid holes) as follows:
* Work 2 rows with 100, off white back and forth over all sts (1st row = RS), work 10-10-10-12-12-14 rows with 604, ocean view back and forth over all sts (= a total of 12-12-12-14-14-16 rows in garter st over all sts).
Then work until MARKER 1, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 2, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 3, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 4, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 5, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 6, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 7, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 8, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 9, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 10, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 11, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 12, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 13, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 14, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 15, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 16, turn and work back over the remaining 6 sts.
Switch to off white and work 2 rows back and forth over all sts. Switch back to ocean view and work until MARKER 16, turn piece and work back.
Then work until MARKER 15, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 14, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 13, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 12, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 11, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 10, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 9, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 8, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 7, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 6, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 5, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 4, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 3, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 2, turn and work back.
Work until MARKER 1, turn and work back.
Work 10-10-10-12-12-14 rows back and forth over all sts with ocean view *.
Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 35-40-45-53-58-60 cm / 13 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 3/4"-21"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" vertically (measured at the shortest when piece is flat on the table) - adjust after one whole repetition, but possibly round down to avoid longer measurements. Insert a marker (= side of dress). Repeat from *-* until piece measures approx. 35-40-45-53-58-60 cm / 13 3/4"-15 3/4"-17 3/4"-21"-22 3/4"-23 5/8" from marker (i.e. front and back piece are the same length) then VERY LOOSELY bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew skirt tog in the side - sew edge to edge in front loop of outermost st so that the seam is flat.

BODY:
Beg from RS at side seam and pick up 1 st in every ridge (i.e in every 2nd row in garter st) around the entire opening of the skirt on circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with off white. P 1 round. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 168-192-216-240-264-288 on 1st round. Then work an eyelet round as follows: * 1 YO, K 2 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round. Then K 2 rounds. Then P 1 round and K 1 round. Now insert a marker in each side, i.e. at beg of round and after 84-96-108-120-132-144 sts - move the markers upwards when working.
Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 and ocean view and work in stockinette st. AT THE SAME TIME on 2nd round, inc 1 st on each side each marker - READ INCREASE TIP! (= 4 sts inc). Repeat inc every 1½-1½-2½-2½-3-3 cm / ½"-½"-7/8"-7/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8" a total of 6-6-5-5-5-5 times = 192-216-236-260-284-308 sts. When piece measures 11-12-13-14-15-16 cm / 4 3/8''-4¾''-5 1/8''-5½''-6''-6¼'' from where sts were picked up for body, bind off 12 sts in each side (i.e. 6 sts on each side of both markers) = 84-96-106-118-130-142 sts remain for front and back piece. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

SLEEVE:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles. Cast on 74-79-84-89-94-99 sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm / US 1or2 with ocean view. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Work 6 rounds in GARTER ST - see explanation above. Switch to double pointed needles size 3 mm / US 2or3 and K 1 round while AT THE SAME TIME bind off 12 sts mid under sleeve (i.e. 6 sts each side of marker) = 62-67-72-77-82-87 sts. Put piece aside and knit another sleeve.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bound off = 292-326-356-390-424-458 sts. Work in stockinette st with ocean view while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-1-5-0-4-10 sts evenly on 1st round = 286-325-351-390-420-448 sts. Insert 11-13-13-13-14-14 markers in piece with 26-25-27-30-30-32 sts between each. After 5-8-5-5-8-5 rounds in stockinette st, dec 1 st before every marker - Read DECREASE TIP! Repeat dec on every 6th round a total of 6-6-7-7-7-8 times, then on every other round a total of 3-3-3-4-5-5 times = 187-208-221-247-252-266 sts. After last dec, switch to circular needle size 2.5 mm / US 1or2. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME adjusting the no of sts to 186-207-219-246-252-264 on last round.

ELEVATION IN BACK OF NECK:
Now work an elevation in back of neck, back and forth on needle as follows:
Insert a marker in the middle st mid front.
Start mid back and work until 19 sts remain before marker at the front, turn piece, tighten thread and work until 19 sts remain before marker in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten thread and work until 46 sts remain before marker at the front, turn piece, tighten thread and work until 46 sts remain before marker in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten thread and work until 67-75-79-85-87-90 sts remain before marker, turn piece, tighten thread and work back until 67-75-79-85-87-90 sts remain before marker in the other side.
Turn piece, tighten thread and work until mid back.

NECKLINE:
P 1 round and K 2 rounds, then work eyelet round as follows: * 1 YO, K 3 tog *, repeat from *-* the entire round = 124-138-146-164-168-176 sts remain on needle. K 2 rounds while AT THE SAME TIME dec 6-8-10-20-18-20 sts evenly on the last round = 118-130-136-144-150-156 sts. P 1 round and K 1 round, and then loosely bind off with P sts. Piece measures approx. 82-85-88-91-94-97 cm / 32 1/4"-33½"-34 5/8"-35 3/4"-37"-38 1/4" when flat, it will be longer when dress is worn.

TIE WITH CONE:
Crochet a ch-row on hook size 2.5 mm/C/2 with off white until row measures approx. 130 cm / 51'' (or desired measurement around waist). Then work 1 sl st in 4th ch from hook (= beg of cone).
ROUND 1: Work 6 sc in ch-ring.
ROUND 2: Work 2 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 3: Work * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 18 sc.
ROUND 4-7: Work 1 sc in every sc = 18 sc.
ROUND 8: Work * 1 sc in first sc, then work the next 2 sc tog *, repeat from *-* the rest of the round = 12 sc.
ROUND 9: Work 1 sc in every sc = 12 sc.
ROUND 10: Crochet all sc tog 2 by 2 = 6 sc.
ROUND 11: Work all sc tog 2 by 2 = 3 sc.
Cut the yarn, baste it up and down through sts, pull the thread to tighten and fasten tightly.
Crochet another cone.
Begin by ch 4 and form a ring with 1 sl st in 1st ch. Then continue as explained above. Sew this cone to the ch-row after the tie has been inserted in the eyelet round.
Work another tie for neck with a length of approx. 100 cm / 40''.


Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 128-1) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (130)

Dominika 30.07.2019 - 17:47:

Dobrý den, tyto šaty jsou skutečně překrásné, zajímalo by mě, zda by bylo možné je uplést s delší sukní tak, aby sahala pod kolena nebo ještě níž - třeba do poloviny lýtek. Pokud ano, jakým způsobem bych si musela návod upravit?

Roxy 06.04.2019 - 23:50:

Hello! I'd also like to know the answer to the question that my fellow knitter from Russia asked. How long is this dress when the model stands? It's a lovely piece but I won't likely make it if I don't know the answer. Thanks so much!

DROPS Design 07.04.2019 kl. 05:19:

Dear Roxy, the fulllength of the dress - depending of the size you knit- is about 82-85-88-91-94-97 cm. Of course, since we talk about hand knitting, each and every piece can be slightly different, the final result depends on the ecact tension, how you block the piece, etc. Happy Knitting.

Анна 20.03.2019 - 16:54:

Good news! I speak English. Here is translation of what I said in Russian: Hi! My height is 170 centimeters, and my size is M. You said that when the woman stands, the dress will be longer. About how long will the dress be when I am standing.

DROPS Design 25.04.2019 kl. 10:16:

Dear Анна, the woman on the picture is approx. 1.70 and wearing a size M, so that it should be approximately as on the picture if you are as tall. Happy knitting!

Анна 19.03.2019 - 21:53:

Привет! Мой рост - 170 см, и мой размер - М. Вы сказали что когда женщина стоит, это платье будет длиннее. Примерно, где кончится платье, когда я стою?

DROPS Design 20.03.2019 kl. 08:55:

Dear Анна, we are unfortuntately not able to answer in russian, please contact your DROPS store in Russia - even per mail or telephone for any further assistance. Happy knitting!

Kathrine 18.03.2019 - 19:04:

About how long will this take to make? I knit at a normal speed.

DROPS Design 19.03.2019 kl. 01:19:

Dear Katherine, since everybody knits differently, there is no such a thing as "normal speed", not to mention that everbody can designate different amount of time to spend on a project, so we cannot estimate how much time knitting this will take you. It is not a small piece and it is knitted from sock weight yarn, so it will not be the fastest project, but well worth the effort. Happy Knitting!

Anita Bergheim 20.01.2019 - 14:30:

Kan jeg få tilsendt oppskriften på Mail.

DROPS Design 25.01.2019 kl. 09:20:

Hei Anita. Vi har dessverre ikke mulighet til å sende ut oppskrifter individuelt, heller ikke på på mail. Du kan henvende deg til din nærmeste DROPS forhandler, de skal kunne printe dem ut for deg når du kjøper garn. Evetuelt kan du printe den ut på ditt lokale bibliotek eller lignende. Eller så kan du selfølgelig lese den online. God fornøyelse.

Anita Bergheim 18.01.2019 - 13:03:

Hei. Jeg får ikke skrevet ut denne oppskriften,er det noen mulighet for at dere kan sende den PR brev?

DROPS Design 23.01.2019 kl. 15:15:

Hei Anita. Vi har dessverre ikke mulighet til å sende den per post. Kanskje er det et annet sted du kan få skrevet den ut? et offentlig bibliotek feks. God fornøyelse

Marina 19.07.2018 - 14:57:

Hallo, könnten Sie mir bitte einen Tipp geben wie ich am besten das Rockteil zusammen nähe.

DROPS Design 19.07.2018 kl. 16:20:

Liebe Marina, Sie können die abgeketteten Kante zusammen mit der Anschlagskante wie z.B. für Schulter zusammennähen. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

GoldenEagle1620 13.03.2018 - 11:57:

Thank you very much for your help and hopefully I can continue without having to bother you once more. I have complete two of your creations ('Stripes in Monaco' & 'Spring Forest') - they are brilliant. I am also making 'Lemon Parfait' & 'Emerald Queen'; when the wool arrives..

GoldenEagle1620 12.03.2018 - 21:22:

Hello again. I've completed the first 12 rows and am ready to knit the short rows. But tell me, should I be knitting most of the stitches so that I can get to Marker1? I am working on the RS of the piece! But am I correct with having the RS when working and also should the marker numbering be:- 8-14-18-10-10-6-6-6-6-6-6-6-6-6-6-6-finishing with 6sts. But is it necessary to do w/t (so there will be no holes). All your expertise would be very much appreciated. Thank you. GoldenEagle1620.

DROPS Design 13.03.2018 kl. 10:11:

Dear GoldenEagle1620, you will now work short rows starting from RS: 2 rows over sts to marker-1, then 2 rows over sts to marker 2, 2 rows over sts to marker-3 and so on until you have worked to marker-16, then work 2 rows over all sts with off white and work now short rows from marker-16 to marker-1. You can work short rows with w&t or just turn (see basic technique). Happy knitting!

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