Fairy Dust by DROPS Design

Knitted DROPS jacket with wavy pattern and round yoke in "Muskat". Size S - XXXL

DROPS design: Pattern no R-588
---------------------------------------------------------
Size: S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL
Finished measurements:
Bust: 82-88-96-110-120-130 cm /
32 1/4"-34 5/8"-37 3/4"-43 3/8"-47 1/4"-51"
Full length: 40-42-44-47-49-51 cm /
15 3/4"-16½"-17 1/4"-18½"-19 1/4"-20"

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
Color no 08, off white: 350-400-450-500-550-600 g

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES AND CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 and 80 cm / 16'' and 32'') SIZE 4 mm / US 6 - or size needed to get 21 sts x 28 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4'' and 25 sts in Wavy pattern = width 10 cm / 4''.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLES (40 cm / 16'') size 3 mm / US 2or3 - for neckline.

DROPS MOTHER-OF-PEARL BUTTON w/HOLES, NO 521: 3-3-3-4-4-4 pieces

-------------------------------------------------------

Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------


100% Cotton
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 3.00 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
Order
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks Order
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from RS. See diagram for size!

GARTER ST (in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle):
*K 1 round and P 1 round*, repeat from *-*.

BUTTON HOLES:
Bind off for button holes on right front band.
1 button hole = bind off 3rd band st from edge. On next row cast on 1 new st over the bind off st. Bind off for button holes when piece measures:
SIZE S: 22, 30 and 38 cm / 9",12",15".
SIZE M: 24, 32 and 40 cm / 9 3/4",12 3/4",15 3/4".
SIZE L: 26, 34 and 42 cm / 10½",13½",16½".
SIZE XL: 27, 33, 39 and 45 cm /10½",13",15 1/4",17 3/4".
SIZE XXL: 29, 35, 41 and 47 cm / 11",13½",16",18½".
SIZE XXXL: 31, 37, 43 and 49 cm / 12½",14 3/4",17",19 1/4".
---------------------------------------------------------

BODY:
Worked back and forth on circular needle to make room for all the sts.
Cast on 216-233-250-288-311-334 sts (includes 6 band sts each side) on 2 circular needles size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat (to avoid a tight cast on edge). Pull out one of the circular needles. K 4 rows over all sts. K the band sts on every row until finished measurements. Insert a marker in the piece after 57-61-65-75-81-86 sts each side (back piece = 102-111-120-138-149-162 sts). Continue to work diagram M.1 (see diagram for size) with 6 band sts each side (1st row = from RS). Continue working like this until piece measures 20-22-24-24-26-28 cm / 8"-8 3/4"-9½"-9½"-10 1/4"-11" (stop when 1 row of M.1 remain). On next row from WS, bind off 8-8-8-10-10-10 sts each side for armholes (= 4-4-4-5-5-5 sts each side of every marker) = 200-217-234-268-291-314 sts remain on needle. Put piece aside and knit the sleeves.

RIGHT SLEEVE:
Cast on 85-85-102-92-92-115 sts on 2 double pointed needle size 4 mm / US 6 with Muskat (or cast on over 2 circular needles to make room for all the sts and distribute on double pointed needles afterwards). Pull out one of the needles. Work 4 rounds in Garter st - see explanation above - in the round. Insert a marker at beg of round (= mid under sleeve). Continue working in the round with M.1, but beg with st no 9-1-1-11-1-1 in M.1. Continue working like this until piece measures approx. 10-11-12-12-13-14 cm / 4"-4 3/8"-4 3/4"-4 3/4"-5 1/8"-5½" (stop when 1 round of M.1 remain). On next round bind off 5-0-4-8-1-6 sts at beg of round and 4-9-5-5-12-7 sts at end of round = 76-76-93-79-79-102 sts.

LEFT SLEEVE:
S: Cast on and work as right sleeve.
M-XXXL: Cast on and work as right sleeve, but bind off 9-5-5-12-7 sts i beg of round and 0-4-8-1-6 sts in the end of the round.

YOKE:
Slip sleeves on to same circular needle as body where armholes were bind off = 352-369-420-426-449-518 sts. Make sure to put the correct sleeve in matching hole to make pattern fit.
Continue to work M.2 (see diagram for size) with 6 band sts each side. NOTE! REMEMBER TO BIND OFF FOR BUTTON HOLES - see explanation above.
When M.2 has been worked vertically, 112-117-132-138-145-166 sts remain on needle. Switch to circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3. K 6 rounds before loosely bind off.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.05.2011
RIGHT SLEEVE:
...Continue working in the round with M.1, but beg with st no 9-1-1-11-1-1 in M.1.

LEFT SLEEVE:
S: Cast on and work as right sleeve.
M-XXXL: Cast on and work as right sleeve, but bind off 9-5-5-12-7 sts i beg of round and 0-4-8-1-6 sts in the end of the round.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = K from RS, P from WS
symbols = P from RS, K from WS
symbols = 1 YO between 2 sts
symbols = K2 tog
diagram
diagram

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 127-40) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

signature-image signature

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (54)

country flag Monika Halfter wrote:

Guten Tag, ich habe das Modell 127-40 in Größe S soweit gestrickt, dass jetzt die Ärmel an der Reihe sind. Wieso ist das so asymmetrisch und bedeutet 9.M mit M1 beginnen, dass ich vorher die 8 Maschen des M1 stricke ? Wäre am Anfang ein Aufschlag ? Beginnt der li. Ärmel auch mit der 9.M ? Ohje, ich hoffe auf baldige Antwort.

23.04.2022 - 13:55

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Halfter, damit die Ärmel genau an der Passe passen, soll man beide anders stricken; bei der rechten Ärmel beginnen Sie M.1 mit der 9. Masche (= 1 M re, 1 Umschlag,1 M re, 1 Umschlag, 1 M re, 1 Umschlag, 2 M re zs x 3), wiederholen Sie jetzt M.1 8 Mal (= 8 x 17 M) und enden Sie die Runde mit der 8 ersten Maschen (2 M re zsx 3, 1 Umschlag, 1 M re, 1 Umschlag, 1 M re). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

25.04.2022 kl. 07:26

country flag Sunniva wrote:

Hi, I am trying to work out my size for the yarn I`m using. I can`t help but notice that the illustration`s measurements seem off. Size S is 41 cm times 2 (82cm) in total width, the difference between S and L is 7cm times 2 or 34 stitches, equal to 2 pattern rapports. By this estimation each rapport equals to 7cm in your yarn and tension. However size small has 12 pattern rapports and two 6stitch button posts. Excluding those S is 12 x 7= 84cm not 82 and for size L 14x7 makes 98cm, am I off?

10.04.2022 - 18:35

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sunniva, for size S you work 12 repeats of the pattern and for size L you work 14 repeats of the pattern. However, due to the nature of this pattern, the garment is actually slightly tighter than what it should be according to the knitting tension. That's why the measurements seem slightly off. Happy knitting!

10.04.2022 kl. 19:47

country flag Anna Taylor wrote:

Question in reference to Drops 127-40 sleeve problem was previously sent but forgot my email address.

08.03.2022 - 20:39

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, you can see the answer below.

08.03.2022 kl. 21:26

country flag Anna Taylor wrote:

I am knitting Drops pattern 127-40 and am having problems lining up the ripple pattern over the first sleeve. Could it be that the sleeves are switched? When referring to the right sleeve as it they right sleeve as if wearing it or the right sleeve as when the sweater is facing you?

08.03.2022 - 20:37

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Anna, first, right sleeve refers to the one on the right side as if wearing it. It's important that the body and sleeve are finished in the same row, before joining, so that the pattern will match. That is, all of the parts before joining will need to have worked the 3rd row of A.1 as the last one and the 4th row (in WS) is when the pieces are joined together. Happy knitting!

08.03.2022 kl. 21:25

country flag Ellen wrote:

After binding off the neckline, don't you have to sew the underarm stitches together? I don't see that in the finishing instructions.

03.02.2021 - 08:33

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Ellen, that's right, you have to close the hole under each sleeve, thanks for the feedback, this will be added. Happy knitting!

03.02.2021 kl. 09:10

country flag REINE MARIE wrote:

MERCI POUR CE JOLI MODELE J AI REUSSI .LA MANCHE .BONNE JOURNEE

06.05.2020 - 10:05

country flag REINE MARIE wrote:

Voilà enfin je pense avoir reussi oh là là .excusez moi mais jbe voulais absolument comprendre je suis votre explication et là cela va jespere;j en ai fais trois dejà tres beaux et reussit dans une autre taille alor je desesperai vraiment ;bonne soiree a vous et encore merci

05.05.2020 - 19:45

country flag REINE MARIE wrote:

LES EXPLICATIONS NE CORRESPONDENT PAS.EXCUSEZ MOI MAIS JE SUIS ETONNEE QUAND MEME

05.05.2020 - 17:31

country flag REINE MARIE wrote:

MERCI MAIS VOILA VOUS ME DITES DE FAIRE "3X2MAILLES ENSEMBLE MAIS CELA FAIT PAS LE DESSIN COMPLET NE SERAIT-IL PAS 6X2MAILLES ENSEMBLE?MERCI A L AVANCE EXCUSEZ MOI

05.05.2020 - 17:18

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Reine-Marie, vous commencez le tour par la 9ème maille et terminez le diagramme (jusqu'aux 3x2 m ens à l'end), puis, vous tricotez des motifs entiers sur les mailles suivantes (3 x 2 m ens à l'end etc...) donc, oui, vous aurez les 6 x 2 m ens à l'end côte à côte, mais le motif doit commencer au milieu environ (9ème m) pour se terminer par la 4ème m. Entre temps, vous répétez les motifs entiers comme avant. Bon tricot!

06.05.2020 kl. 09:54

country flag REINE MARIE wrote:

Voilà je n 'arrive toujours pas le début de la manche en taille S c'est bien commencer par la 9eme maille qui est un jeté?merci de votre reponse

05.05.2020 - 15:50

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Reine Marie, avez-vous vu la réponse précédente? Elle vous explique comment tricoter le 1er motif de la manche et le dernier. Bon tricot!

05.05.2020 kl. 16:51

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 127-40

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.