DROPS Baby / 20 / 15

Tamzyn by DROPS Design

Knitted domino jacket in garter st for baby and children in DROPS Delight

  • Tamzyn / DROPS Baby 20-15 - Knitted domino jacket in garter st for baby and children in DROPS Delight
  • Tamzyn / DROPS Baby 20-15 - Knitted domino jacket in garter st for baby and children in DROPS Delight
  • Tamzyn / DROPS Baby 20-15 - Knitted domino jacket in garter st for baby and children in DROPS Delight
DROPS design: Pattern no DE-006-by
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Size:
1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 - 5/6) years
Finished measurements:
Bust: 52-56-64 (68-72-76) cm / 20½"-22"-25 1/4" (26 3/4"-28 3/8"-30")
Full length: 27-29-33 (35-38-40) cm / 10 5/8"-11 3/8"

Materials: DROPS DELIGHT from Garnstudio
Color no 04, light blue mix:
150-150-200 (200-250-300) g

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm / 32'') SIZE 3 mm – or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS NO 511: 3-4-4 (5-5-5) pcs

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Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.90 $ /50g
DROPS Delight print DROPS Delight print 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
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needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
INCREASE TIP:
Inc 1 st in each side of marker by making 1 YO. Work YO twisted on next row (i.e. knit in back loop of st instead of front loop) to avoid holes.
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JACKET:
Work the piece sideways. Work 2 pieces and finish by sewing pieces tog in the back. Work the pieces from the sleeve edge towards the mid of jacket.

RIGHT HALF:
Worked back and forth on circular needle.
Cast on 36-38-40 (40-42-44) sts on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Delight. K back and forth on all rows until completed (= garter st).
REMEMBER THE GAUGE!
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 6-6-5 (5-6-6) cm / 2 3/8"-2 3/8"-2" (2"-2 3/8"-2 3/8"), inc 1 st in each side, repeat the inc on every 8th row a total of 6-7-9 (11-13-14) times = 48-52-58 (62-68-72) sts. Work until piece measures 17-19-20 (25-29-33) cm / 6 3/4"-7½"-8" (9 3/4"-11 3/8"-13") – adjust so that the last row is worked from WS.

BODY:
K 1 row (= RS), at end of row cast on 41-43-50 (53-58-60) sts (= towards the back) = 89-95-108 (115-126-132) sts.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
K 1 row, turn, insert a marker in the 2nd st on needle from RS (= in right side). Continue – AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st on each side of the st with marker every other row a total of 38-40-46 (48-50-52) times – SEE INCREASE TIP. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8.5-9-10.5 (11-12-13) cm / 3 1/4"-3½"-4 1/4" (4 3/8"-4 3/4"-5 1/8") work only over the last 60-65-74 (79-86-91) sts in the left side seen from RS (= back piece), slip the remaining sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE:
Work until piece measures 13-14-16 (17-18-19) cm / 5 1/8"-5½"-6 1/4" (6 3/4"-7"-7½") (from where back piece sts was cast on), bind off.

FRONT PIECE:
Put sts from stitch holder back on needle but leave 9-10-10 (10-12-12) sts towards the back on the stitch holder for neckline. Continue inc on every other row – AT THE SAME TIME dec 1 st towards the neck (= towards sts on stitch holder) on every 4th row a total of 6-7-7 (7-7-7) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-15-17 (18-19-20) cm / 5½"-6"-6 3/4" (7"-7½"-8") (from where inc on front piece started and towards mid front) bind off for 3-4-4 (5-5-5) button holes as follows (from neck, i.e. from WS): K 2, bind off 2 sts, * K 12-9-11 (9-10-10) sts, bind off 2 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3 (4-4-4) times, K rest of row. On next row cast on 2 new sts over the bound off sts.
After all inc and dec there are 90-93-109 (115-121-126) sts on the needle. When finished with inc on right side, bind off 51-52-62 (66-70-74) sts from the neckline and down the front band of jacket (bind off from WS) = 39-41-47 (49-51-52) sts left on needle. K back and forth over these sts for approx. 1-1-2 (2-3-3) cm / 3/8"-3/8"-3/4" (3/4"-1 1/8"-1 1/8") (fold piece at the shoulder and check that the front piece is the same length as back piece). Bind off.

LEFT HALF:
Work as right half but without button holes – this piece is assembled with wrong side out.

ASSEMBLY:
Put the 2 pieces towards each other and sew tog mid back – sew edge to edge to avoid a chunky seam. Fold the jacket and sew underarm and side seams in front loop of outermost sts. Sew on buttons.

NECKLINE:
Knit up 55 to 80 sts (including sts on stitch holder) around the neck on circular needle size 3 mm / US 2or3 with Delight.
K 3 rows back and forth, bind off.

Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = knitting direction
diagram
signature

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 20-15) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (173)

country flag Demartin 19.09.2021 - 10:44:

Hourra j’ai compris pour les diminutions du col !!

country flag Demartin 18.09.2021 - 17:27:

Je ne comprends pas les diminutions pour l’encolure. Se font elles à part du devant ?

country flag Joanne Richards 25.07.2021 - 06:29:

How would I make this for an 8 year old?

user icon DROPS Design 25.07.2021 kl. 09:40:

Dear Joanne, please understand that we cannot modify our patterns for each individual request. This is a pattern for babies and small children, because this kind of cut suits their sizes the best. Having said that for one size bigger you can try using somewhat thicker yarn and needles, but you will have to recalculate the stitchnumbers. Happy Stitching!

country flag Grace 25.06.2021 - 23:36:

Tejer 1 fila del derecho, girar, insertar un MP en el 2º pt en la ag por el LD (=lado derecho). Continuar – AL MISMO TIEMPO aum 1 pt a cada lado del MP cada 2ª fila un total de 38-40-46 (48-50-52) vcs – VER TIP PARA LOS AUMENTOS. AL MISMO TIEMPO. Esta es la parte que no sé cómo se hace ni qué quiere decir, porque si aumento quedaría deformada la delantera. Traté pero no pude, no queda como debería. Gracias

user icon DROPS Design 15.07.2021 kl. 00:46:

Hola Grace, a continuación tienes un vídeo sobre el cuadrado domino. En el vídeo esta en el punto central y te explica como se trabajan los aumentos. En nuestro caso, estaría en el 2º punto y hay que aumentar a cada lado del marcapuntos: https://www.garnstudio.com/video.php?patternid=9250&lang=es

country flag Grace 24.06.2021 - 21:21:

Hi. La explicación no está clara. Cuando termino con la manga, mi sentido común dice que tengo que agregar la misma cantidad de puntos del lado derecho que del lado izquierdo pero eso no está claro en la explicación. Veo que del lado de la espalda debo seguir tejiendo como vienen los puntos pero en el delantero debo hacer esos aumentos que no son aumentos sino una vista. Debo ir desplazando esos "aumentos" hacia el exterior del sweater? No sé cómo hacer eso. Hay video de esa técnica?

user icon DROPS Design 15.07.2021 kl. 00:46:

Hola Grace, puedes ver nuestra respuesta arriba.

country flag Natasza Dimmock 17.05.2021 - 18:06:

I am not clear about the instructions following the cast on stitches for the back. It reads cast on sts at the end of right side row, then knit 1 row. if you knit back, this would still be on the Right Side of the work. It then says "turn" and place marker in 2nd stitch. This would make it on the wrong side of the work, but the instructions say RS. Please clarify. I don't know that it makes much difference, but I would like to know.

user icon DROPS Design 18.05.2021 kl. 08:07:

Hi Natasza, You cast on stitches at the end of the row from the right side, then you turn and knit back from the wrong side. Now you turn and insert the marker in the 2nd stitch on the right side. Happy knitting

country flag Christine 06.05.2021 - 12:23:

Good Morning, this jacket reminds very much of the surprise Jacket Elisabeth Zimmermann designed. Her way of knitting the jacket is much more comprehendable. Very sad, that there is no mentioning of her!

country flag Natasza Dimmock 04.05.2021 - 15:13:

I am knitting second size of this adorable sweater. I checked my gauge and it is correct; however like another knitter mentioned, at 9cm I have only had 22 increases. My question is do you continue working on the left side, putting the right side stitches, where the increases were made, on the holder and continue the increases after these stitches are picked up later? I have read the instructions many times and I am having trouble figuring this out.

user icon DROPS Design 05.05.2021 kl. 08:19:

Dear Mrs Dimmock, when piece measures 9 cm (2nd size) you divide piece for neck, ie increasees on front piece are not finished yet but you first work the left side of piece (= back piece) and will finish the front piece later. Work only the 65 sts on the left side of piece (= the last 65 sts on needle, seen from RS) and put all remaining sts on a thread/stitch holder for front piece. Hope this will help. Happy knitting!

country flag Edith 13.03.2021 - 14:20:

Ich musste die linke Seite bis zum Ärmel wieder aufmachen. Die Anleitung hat einen Fehler. LINKES TEIL: 1 R re stricken, 60M anschlagen, 1 R zurück stricken, vor der zweitletzten M 1 U, Maschenmarkierer, M stricken, 1 U 1 M, wenden und die M und U stricken, dann stimmt auch die Frontansicht.

user icon DROPS Design 16.03.2021 kl. 23:50:

Liebe Edith, da kraus rechts gestrickt wird, sind Vorderseite und Rückseite jeder gestrickten Hälfte komplett identisch. Die linke Hälfte wird daher genauso wie die rechte gestrickt und anschließend einfach umgedreht. Die Anleitung wurde noch einmal sprachlich überarbeitet, damit das noch klarer wird. Gutes Gelingen weiterhin!

country flag Eulalia-Frederike 04.03.2021 - 22:46:

Hallo, ich komme mit der Anleitung gut klar, bis auf einen Punkt: ab wo messe ich die cm für das erste Knopfloch? Die Beschreibung an dieser Stelle ist mir nicht verständlich. Wenn ich die Jacke für meinen Enkel dann fertig habe, werde ich sie für mich umrechnen und stricken. Dann aber mit Taschen. Freue mich schon darauf😊

user icon DROPS Design 05.03.2021 kl. 07:42:

Liebe Eulalia-Frederike, messen Sie von dem Anfang der Zunahmen für das Vorderteil (am Anfang der gestrichten Linien in Diagram aber dann gerade dh in der selben Richtung wie der Pfeil messen, nicht in die Strickrichtung vor den Zunahmen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

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