DROPS / 126 / 22

Winter Classic Mittens by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS mittens in ”Alaska” eller "Nepal"

  • Winter Classic Mittens / DROPS 126-22 - Crochet DROPS mittens in ”Alaska” eller Nepal
DROPS design: Pattern no X-362
Size: XS/S - M/L

Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
150-150 g color no 37, gray/blue
Or use:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio
150-150 g colour no 6220, medium blue

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 16 dc x 9 rows = 10 x 10 cm / 4'' x 4''.


Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

100% Wool
from 2.75 $ /50g
DROPS Alaska uni colour DROPS Alaska uni colour 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alaska mix DROPS Alaska mix 2.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.25$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Replace first hdc on row with ch 2, finish row with 1 hdc in 2nd ch from beg of previous row.

Replace first dc on round with 3 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round.
Replace first sc on round with 1 ch and finish round with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round.

Work 1 dc, but wait with the last pull-through (= 2 sts on hook), work next dc, but when doing the last pull-through pull thread through all sts on hook = 1 dec dc.

Work 1 sc, but wait with the last pull-through, work next sc and pull thread through both sts on hook.

Crochet the cuffs first back and forth in rib-structure, then form a ring, pick up new sts round the ring and crochet the mitten in the round towards the fingertips.

Ch 14 with hook size 4 mm / G/6 with Alaska and work first row as follows: 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in each of the next 11 ch = 13 hdc, turn piece. See CROCHET INFO-1. Continue with 1 hdc in each hdc but work each hdc in the back loop of st (in.e. not through the whole st) = rib-structure.
When piece measures 20-22 cm / 8"-8 3/4" make 2 buttonholes as follows: work 3 hdc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 3 hdc, ch 2, skip 2 sts, 1 hdc in each of the last 3 sts, turn piece. Work 1 hdc in each hdc and 2 hdc in each ch space = 13 hdc, cut and fasten thread.
Insert a marker in the middle of the edge of cuff.

Slip the cuff tog to a ring with the 2 rows on the side with buttonholes sitting over the 2 rows the opposite side = buttonhole split. See CROCHET INFO-2. Beg by marker and crochet alternately 1 and 2 sc in each row all the way round – NOTE: by buttonhole split crochet through both layers = approx 30-33 sc. Continue with 1 dc in each st, AT THE SAME TIME adjust no of sts to 27-30 dc by crochet 2 dc tog with regular intervals – see above. AT THE SAME TIME after 3 rounds with dc inc 1 dc for thumb each side of first st on round - inc 1 dc by working 2 dc in the same st. Repeat the inc each side of this st on every round a total of 4-5 times = 35-40 dc on round (thumb sts = 9-11 dc). Work next round as follows: 1 sl st in each of the 6-7 first dc on beg of round, 3 ch (= 1 dc), then 1 dc in each of the next 25-28 dc, 1 ch and finish with 1 sl st in 3rd ch from beg of round = 26-29 dc and 1 ch on round. On next round work 1 dc in each dc and 1 dc in ch at the end of round = 27-30 dc. Continue with dc in the round until mitten measures 17-20 cm / 6 3/4"-8" from cuff (3 cm / 1" remain, try mitten on for correct measurements).
Continue as follows:
ROUND 1: 1 dc in each dc AT THE SAME TIME work every 2nd and 3rd dc tog = 18-20 dc.
ROUND 2: work 2 dc tog around = 9-10 st.
ROUND 3: 1 sc in each dc AT THE SAME TIME work 2 sc tog around. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts, tighten tog and fasten.

Round 1: Crochet 1 sl st in the first of the 9-11 thumb sts, ch 3 (= 1 dc), then 1 dc in each of the 8-10 dc, then 6 dc in the edge behind thumb, AT THE SAME TIME work these 6 dc tog 2 by 2 – see above = 12-14 dc.
Round 2 + 3: 1 dc in each dc = 12-14 dc.
Approx 1 cm / 3/8'' now remain – try mitten on for right measurement, if needed work an extra round here.
NEXT ROUND: Work 2 dc tog around = 6-7 dc.
LAST ROUND: Work 2 dc tog around. Cut the thread, pull through remaining sts, tighten and fasten.

Crochet the other mitten in the same way, but mirrored, i.e. make buttonhole split the opposite side and inc for thumb each side of the last st on round instead of the first. Sew on buttons.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 126-22) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (21)

country flag Patricia 27.02.2021 - 14:09:

Where are the pattern instructions for the larger sizes

user icon DROPS Design 28.02.2021 kl. 11:15:

Dera Patricia, It is in this pattern, íou just have to look for it. wherever you see two measurments of stitchnumbers right next to each other divided by a dash, the first number is for the smaller size, the second is for the bigger size. For example "When piece measures 20-22 cm", 20 cm for the smaller siue, 22 cm for the bigger size. Happy crafting!

country flag Astrid Kjellevold 07.12.2020 - 09:47:

Hei. Jeg har heklet mansjetten og forstår ikke den videre oppskriften. Ser at flere har stilt spørsmål ved hvor merket skal settes, og hvordan det hekles videre. Jeg forstår ikke noe mer av å lese svarene, og blir bare oppgitt og har lyst til å gi opp denne oppskriften - samtidig er det surt når jeg nå har startet. Hva med en tegning som illustrerer hvordan heklingen skal utvikle seg videre? Jeg klarer ikke se fra bildet hvordan det skal gjøres.

user icon DROPS Design 21.12.2020 kl. 10:28:

Hei Astrid. Når du er ferdig med mansjetten (= en retangel form), klipper du tråden. Nå setter du et merke midt i kanten i den ene langsiden. Start å hekle fra merket, hekle vekselvis 1 og 2 fastmaske ytterst i hver rad. Ved knapphullssplitten der du skal legge de 2 ytterste radene i siden med knapphull over de 2 ytterste radene i den andre siden hekles det gjennom begge lag (og fra nå av hekler du rundt). Håper det var forståelig. mvh DROPS design

country flag Sofie 05.12.2020 - 16:18:

Hei! Jeg er ganske nybegynner på hekling og har derfor ikke fulgt så mange oppskrifter før. Det jeg lurer på som jeg ikke helt forstår er når du skal bruke fm og når du skal bruke st da man jobber med votten (etter mansjetten). Det står jo i starten av oppskriften at man skal se på info 2, PG der står det forskjellige fremgangsmåter for fm og st. Så da lurer jeg på når man bruker hva?

user icon DROPS Design 09.12.2020 kl. 15:02:

Hei Sofie. Når du hekler omganger med staver så starter du omgangen med 3 luftmasker istedenfor 1 stav (og avsluttes med 1 kjedemaske i 3.luftmaske på begynnelsen av omgangen). Når det skal hekles en omgang med fastmasker (siste omgangen på denne votten), starter du omgangen med 1 luftmaske istedenfor 1 fastmaske og avslutter denne omgangen med 1 kjedemaske i den 1. luftmasken. Man kan enkelt si at lengen/høyden på 3 luftmasker = lengden/høyden på 1 stav og lengen/høyden på 1 luftmaske = lengden/høyden på 1 fastmaske. God Fornøyelse!

country flag Anoek 26.11.2020 - 15:11:

Kunt u mij verduidelijken hoe het meerdere van de duimen gaat. Worden er dubbele stokjes gehaakt in de eerste 2 steken van de toer? En voor de andere want in de laatste 2 steken van de toer? Of zowel in de eerste als de laatste steek van de toer?

user icon DROPS Design 06.12.2020 kl. 14:08:

Dag Anoek,

Er wordt niet gemeerderd in de duim. Op de eerste eerst toer maak je de draad vast met een halve vaste, dan haak je stokjes in de rondte (het eerste stokje wordt vervangen door 3 lossen) en aan de achterkant haak je de 6 stokjes 2 aan 2 samen tot 3 stokjes. Nu heb je 12 of 14 stokjes (afhankelijk van de maat. Vanaf ongeveer toer 4 haak je de stokjes weer samen zoals aangegeven.

country flag Ada Van Gink 04.02.2020 - 15:15:

Goedemiddag, zou je deze wanten ook met Drops Lima kunnen maken. Is het effect dan vergelijkbaar met de Nepal? Ik kom Lima niet tegen in het rijtje bij de garenvervangers maar lijkt wel dezelfde samenstelling te hebben als Nepal, toch? Alvast bedankt voor een reactie. Met vriendelijke groet, Ada

user icon DROPS Design 04.02.2020 kl. 23:11:

Dag Ada,

Het klopt dat Lima niet bij de garenvervangers staat, omdat Lima in een andere garencategorie valt, namelijk in categorie B. Nepal valt in categorie C, het is dus dikker garen met een andere stekenverhouding. De samenstelling is verder wel hetzelfde, maar dus een dunnere variant.

country flag Haakje 01.09.2019 - 14:10:

Ik begrijp heel het gedeelte van de duim niet? Vanaf waar begin je met de hv? En hoeveel stk moet je daarna? En waar beginnen die (dubbele) stokjes. Tot nu toe lijken mijn duimen op champignons. Ik vind het patroon heel mooi maar echt heel onduidelijk geschreven... Door de extra woorden/tekst word het heel onduidelijk terwijl het na 3x lezen/uithalen eigenlijk heel simpel blijkt.

user icon DROPS Design 16.10.2019 kl. 09:53:

Dag Haakje,

Je hecht de draad aan door 1 halve vaste te haken aan het begin van de duim, dat is dus bij de overgang van de duim en de hand. Je haakt dan eerst stokjes over de de duim en op het eind van de toer stokjes in de 6 steken tussen de duim en de hand.

country flag Hanna 06.02.2019 - 22:31:

Jeg forstår ikke hvor det er jeg skal sette markøren? midt på kanten av mansjetten? på den korte siden eller lange siden?

user icon DROPS Design 11.02.2019 kl. 10:40:

Hei Hanna. Du plasserer markøren midt på den langsiden som blir overgangen mellom mansjetten og resten av votten. Du skal bruke denne til å måle lengden på votten (uten mansjetten) senere. Altså plasser den på høyre side på den venstre votten, og på venstre side på den høyre votten. God fornøyelse

country flag Delandre Patricia 11.11.2018 - 17:25:

Les explications sont données pour quelle taille.Xs/S ouM/L. Merci.

user icon DROPS Design 11.11.2018 kl. 22:51:

Bonjour Patricia, dans ce modele vous avez deux tailles XS/S et M/L. Bon travail!

Antoaneta Atanasova 22.03.2015 - 08:35:

Hi, I'm having troubles when starting the mitten. I've marked the midst of the edge of the cuff and I've joined the last stitch worked at the cuff with a stitch from the edge two rows before with a slip stitch. Now it says to begin by marker. Should I cut the thread orr I've made a mistake somewhere?

user icon DROPS Design 23.03.2015 kl. 09:56:

Dear Mrs Atanasova, after the cuff has been made, you cut the thread and beg crocheting the mitten at the marker (when you work above buttonband, crochet through both layers). Happy crocheting!

country flag Vanessa 30.07.2014 - 23:31:

Can u explain what is mean by "the edge behind the thumb" in round 1 of the thumb instructions?

user icon DROPS Design 31.07.2014 kl. 10:05:

Dear Vanessa, the edge behind the thumb is the ch worked on the mitten when making hole for thumb. Happy crocheting!

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