DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 8.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS Super Sale
DROPS 125-15
DROPS design: Pattern no X-358
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Size: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm.
Leg length: 4 - 4 - 4 cm.
Materials: DROPS ALASKA from Garnstudio
100-100-100 g colour no 04, grey.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES size 4.5 mm - or size needed to get 18 sts x 23 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Alaska
DROPS Alaska
100% Wool
from 8.00 RON /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 16.00RON.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

PATTERN:
See diagram M.1 (= 15 sts) and M.2 (= 15 sts). Diagram shows the pattern from RS.
HEEL DECREASES (worked in stocking st):
Row 1 (= RS): Work row until 6-7-7 sts remain, slip next st as it to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
Row 2 (= WS): Work row until 6-7-7 sts remain, slip next st as it to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Row 3 (= RS): Work row until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip next st as it to K, K1, psso, turn piece.
Row 4 (= WS): Work row until 5-6-6 sts remain, slip next st as it to P, P1, psso, turn piece.
Continue dec like this with 1 less st before each dec until there are 9-11-11 sts on needle.
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SOCK:
Worked in the round. Cast on 42-48-48 sts on double pointed needles size 4.5 mm with Alaska. K 2 rounds and work 5 rounds rib, K3/P3. On next round work PATTERN - see above - as follows: Continue in rib K3/P3 on the first 18-24-24 sts, K 6-6-6 sts, M.1 (= 15 sts), K 3-3-3 sts. REMEMBER THE KNITTING TENSION! Continue like this until piece measures 4 cm for all sizes. Now keep the first 21-27-27 sts on needle for heel and slip the last 21-21-21 sts on a stitch holder (= mid upper foot). Work rib back and forth on heel sts for 5-5.5-6 cm. NOTE! On last row from WS dec as follows: Size 35/37: 1 st in the first and last K-section by K2 tog, Size 38/40 and 41/43: 1 st in each of the K4-section by K2 tog. All Sizes: = 19-23-23 sts. Insert a marker in piece. Now work HEEL DECREASES – see above! After heel dec pick up 9-10-12 sts each side of heel and slip the 21-21-21 sts from stitch holder back on needle = 48-52-56 sts. Insert a marker each side of the middle 21-23-25 sts on upper foot (= 3-4-5 sts each side of M.1). Continue in stocking st and M.1 - AT THE SAME TIME dec each side as follows: K tog into back of loop the 2 last sts before first marker on upper foot and K tog the first 2 sts after second marker on upper foot. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 6-7-7 times = 36-38-42 sts. Continue until piece measures 18-20-22 cm from marker on heel – adjust to after a full repeat of M.1 (= approx 4-4-5 cm remain). Insert a marker each side with 19-19-21 sts under foot and 17-19-21 sts on upper foot (= 1-2-3 sts each side of M.1). Now dec for toes. READ ALL OF THE FOLLOWING SECTION BEFORE CONTINUING:
(NOTE! dec differently under foot and upper foot but make the dec on the same rounds). Dec under foot as follows: K tog into back of loop the 2 sts after marker and K tog the 2 sts before marker. Repeat the dec on every other round a total of 4-4-4 times, then on every round a total of 3-3-4 times. AT THE SAME TIME dec on upper foot as follows: Work M.2 over M.1 (1-2-3 sts each side of M.1 worked in stocking st as before). Finish with P the 3 last sts on last round for Size 41/43 = 10-12-14 sts left on needle. Cut the thread, pull it through remaining sts and fasten.

Diagram

symbols = K
symbols = P
symbols = slip 3 sts on cable needle behind piece, K1, K3 from cable needle
symbols = slip 1 st on cable needle in front of piece, K3, K1 from cable needle
symbols = K2 tog
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso
symbols = slip 1 st as if to K, K2 tog, psso
symbols = P2 tog
diagram

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (141)

country flag Annette wrote:

Hallo nochmal liebes Drops-Team, ich habe es jetzt doch verstanden. In Gr. 41 /43 rechts und links von den 15 Maschen des Musters 1 jeweils 5 Maschen daneben die Markierungen setzen... Mit meinen Dänischkenntnissen konnte ich die norwegische Anleitung verstehen ;-)

15.02.2024 - 16:25

country flag Annette wrote:

Hallo liebes Drops-Team, ich stricke Gr.41/43 und verstehe nach der Fersenabnahme und dem Auffassen der Maschen nicht wo die Markierungen hin sollen. Welche 25 Maschen sind gemeint? Ich habe die 21 Maschen des Fußrückens die vorher stillgelegt waren, dann 2 Nadeln mit je 12 aufgefassten seitlichen Maschen und 1 Nadel mit den 11 Fersenmaschen. Durch die anderen Chats und die tollen Videos konnte ich leider keine Antwort ableiten. Danke für eure Hilfe, Annette

15.02.2024 - 15:59

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Annette, diese 25 Maschen bestehen aus die stillgelegten 21 Maschen + 2 Maschen beidseitig, dh 2 aufgefassenen Maschen + 21 Maschen + 2 aufgelassenen Maschen, bzw 5 Maschen glatt rechts, M.1, 5 Maschen glatt rechts. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

16.02.2024 - 07:38

country flag Brugere wrote:

Bonjour , une autre question , pour les diminution pointe , comment commencez-vous par le dessus ou dessous ? Pouvez vous me décomposer le premier tour .( car mon dernier tour avant diminution se trouve milieu dessous de pied ) merci encore pour toute vos explication qui me font progresser .Bien cordialement

25.10.2023 - 09:13

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, en général, les tours commencent sous le pied, donc vous diminuez avant le 1er marqueur (= 2 m ens à l'end), tricotez M.2 entre le 1er et le 2ème marqueur (en diminuant comme dans le diagramme), et diminuez après le 2ème marqueur (= glissez 1 m, 1 m end, passez la m glissée par-dessus la m tricotée) = vous diminuez 4 mailles. Les diminutions avant le 1er marqueur + après le 2ème marqueur (= pas celles de M.2) se font d'abord tous les 2 tours 4 fois, puis 4 fois tous les tours (en 41/43). Bon tricot!

25.10.2023 - 15:15

country flag Brugere wrote:

Bonjour , SVP pouvez vous me dire quand vous parlez d'ajuster apres un motif complet pour faire la pointe ( c'est quoi ? faire M1 , les 6 rangs) . je ne comprends pas merci de m'expliquer ( je tricote la taille 41/43 ) bien cordialement

24.10.2023 - 18:09

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Brugere, il faut commencer les diminutions de M.2 quand on a tricoté 3 rangs après la dernière torsade, autrement dit, quand on a terminé 1 motif complet de M.1 en hauteur. Bon tricot!

25.10.2023 - 07:35

country flag Irene wrote:

Hej M2 över M1 hur stickar man har? Mvh Irene

29.01.2023 - 11:15

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Irene. Når du skal felle masker til tå oppå foten strikker du M.2 istedenfor M.1, se diagrammet for hvordan det skal felles. mvh DROPS Design

30.01.2023 - 14:30

country flag Bente wrote:

Ich stricke die Socken in Größe 41/43 und muss leider feststellen, dass 100 Gramm leider nicht ausreichen. Hier sollte die Anleitung korrigiert werden von 100 auf 150 Gramm.

16.12.2022 - 23:06

country flag Davena Turvey wrote:

Sorry, I can’t find how many balls of Alaska yarn to make one pair of these interesting slippers

15.12.2022 - 04:04

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Davena, You need 100 g, which is 2 balls of Drops Alaska yarn. Happy knitting!

15.12.2022 - 06:49

country flag Gaetane wrote:

Bonjour, concernant les diminutions du talon de ce modèle , quand vous dites : au dernier rang,sur l envers,diminuez ainsi : 1 maille dans la 1 Iere m.et la dernière section endroit en tricotant 2 m ens end ! Je saisi pas ! Est ce faire 2 m.ens end tout le rang ou quoi ? Svp merci 🙏

02.11.2022 - 12:37

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Gaetane, vous tricotez le talon en côtes 3 m end/3 m env; au dernier rang sur l'envers, tricotez les 3 premières mailles endroit sur l'envers ainsi: 1 m end, 2 m ens à l'end et tricotez les 3 dernières mailles endroit sur l'envers ainsi: 2 m ens à l'end, 1 m end (= on diminue 2m au total), tricotez les autres mailles comme avant, vous avez 19 mailles maintenant. Bon tricot!

02.11.2022 - 15:15

country flag Morten Skovgaard Jensen wrote:

Giv opskrifternes i en printer venlig version :) Gør alle glade og spare på vores ressourcer

28.09.2022 - 19:00

country flag Josephine wrote:

Strickt man die Fersenabnahme im Bündchenmuster weiter? Oder so, dass man von außen, wenn man auf die Ferse schaut, nur rechte Maschen sieht?

19.04.2022 - 23:17

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Josephine, die Fersenabnahmen werden glatt rechts gestrickt. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

20.04.2022 - 07:13