DROPS / 120 / 9

Emmy Lou by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS bag in ”Paris”.

DROPS design: Pattern no W-377
Measurements: approx width 35 cm / 13 3/4" x height 25 cm / 9 3/4''

Materials: DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio
250 g color no 29, light ice blue.
50 g color no 17, off-white.

120 cm / 47'' off-white silk ribbon, width 15 mm/½".

DROPS CROCHET HOOK size 4 mm / G/6 – or size needed to get 4 dc-groups = width 10 cm / 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Cotton
from 1.10 $ /50g
DROPS Paris uni colour DROPS Paris uni colour 1.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Paris recycled denim DROPS Paris recycled denim 1.10 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.60$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Replace first dc on round with ch 3.
Replace first sc on round with ch 1.

Ch 140 with light ice blue and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.

ROUND 1: 5 dc in first ch – See CROCHET TIP, * skip 4 ch, 5 dc in next ch (= 1 dc-group) *, repeat from *-* and finish with skipping 4 ch and crochet 1 sl st at the top of first dc on round = 28 dc-groups.

ROUND 2: Crochet sl sts to the middle of the first dc-group, 5 dc in the middle dc on first dc-group, * 5 dc in the middle dc on next dc-group *, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 sl st in first dc.
Repeat round 2 until piece measures 21 cm / 8 1/4''.
Now crochet next round as follows:
1 sc in first dc, * skip 1 dc, 1 sc in next dc *, repeat from *-* = 70 sc.
Crochet 6 rounds with 1 sc in each sc, cut the thread.

Hold the bag with the bottom facing away from you. Crochet between the dc-groups in the transition between the one but last and the last round with dc-groups as follows with light ice blue:
ROUND 1: Crochet 5 dc between each dc-group round the bag.
ROUND 2: Crochet sl sts to the middle of the first dc-group, then 6 dc in the middle dc in each dc-group round the bag.
ROUND 3: Crochet sl sts to the middle of the first dc-group, then 7 dc between the 2 middle dc in each dc-group round the bag, cut the thread.

Ch 6 with light ice blue, turn and crochet 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, and then 1 sc in each of the last 4 ch = 5 sc. Continue with 1 sc in each sc - turn each row with 1 ch - until strap measures 35 cm / 13 3/4'', cut the thread. Crochet 1 more strap in the same way.

Sew a strap to each side of bag, approx 2 cm / 3/4'' in from the side. Crochet a border along each long side of strap with off-white as follows: 1 sc in first st, * ch 1, skip 1 st, 1 sc in next st *, repeat from *-*. Crochet tog bottom of bag with sc through both layers.

Thread the silk ribbon through the last round before the sc at top of bag, and tie a bow.

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 02.11.2011
ROUND 1: 5 dc in first ch – See CROCHET TIP, * skip 4 ch, 5 dc in next ch (= 1 dc-group) *, repeat from *-* and finish with skipping 4 ch and crochet 1 sl st at the top of first dc on round = 28 dc-groups.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS 120-9) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (60)

Monica 05.08.2019 - 18:23:

Hallo , ik heb het eerste gedeelte af en begin nu met de rand van de tas. Ik weet echt niet hoe te beginnen? Help!!🤔

DROPS Design 06.08.2019 kl. 15:44:

Dag Monica,

Als het goed is heb je een aantal toeren met vasten gehaakt. De rand (een soort ruche) aan de bovenkant haak je in de overgang tussen die vasten en het deel met stokjesgroepen. Je begint tussen een stokjesgroep en haakt telkens 5 stokjes (hecht aan met een halve vaste en vervang het eerste stokje met 3 lossen) tussen ieder stokjesgroep op de eerste toer.

Emelie 08.03.2019 - 22:06:

Hej! Jag har lagt upp 140 lm och virkat ett första varv. Använder rätt garn och nål 4. 4 solfjädrar blir 10cm. Mitt arbete är dock totalt 46 cm långt. Men det står väskan är 35 cm. Ska det verkligen vara 140 lm?!

DROPS Design 12.03.2019 kl. 15:39:

Hei Emelie. Det som er viktig er at den angitte heklefastheten blir overholdt. Her er den: 4 stavgrupper = 10 cm. Du skal ha 28 stavgrupper, som betyr at vesken er 70 cm rundt hele, og 35 cm tvers over (fra side til side). Størrelsen på heklenålen er kun veiledende, du må bruke den nålen som gir deg 4 stavgrupper = 10 cm. God fornøyelse

Veronika 10.07.2018 - 23:11:

Har jag förstått rätt att st ska vara om/runt mellan st-grupperna? Provade göra så o ser bra ut

DROPS Design 13.07.2018 kl. 11:18:

Hei Veronika. Det stemmer at stavgruppene skal hekles mellom stavgruppene i overgangen mellom nest øverste og øverste omgang - som forklart i oppskrift. God fornøyelse videre

Veronika 10.07.2018 - 22:53:

Hej! Förstår inte heller hur man börjar med volangen!!? Hur kan man börja med 5 st i ett hål? Lr ska man göra dom i nån maska lr vad. Blir tokig för fattar inte hur jag ska göra. Kan ni lägga ut en bild lr video på hur man ska göra? I vilken maska ska stolparna sitta i osv? Går ju inte o göra dom i ett hål. Tacksam för svar/hjälp

Ewa 12.05.2015 - 17:19:

Har lyckats virka nästan hela väskan men jag förstår inte hur man virkar volangen. Finns det en video som visar hur jag börjar med volangen?

DROPS Design 18.05.2015 kl. 09:55:

Hej Ewa, du virkar volangen som väskan, men med 6 st på 2:a varvet och 7 på 3:e varvet istället för 5 st. Lycka till!

Halima 13.04.2015 - 17:35:

Even als aanvulling op mijn vraag, ik zie dat de laatste zin een typefout is en dat het toeren moet zijn, toch bdankt voor het patroon, ik vind hem erg leuk, bedankt

Halima 13.04.2015 - 16:10:

Hallo, mijn vraag is; bij de laatste regel van Tas, staat deze regel en snap niet wat er mee bedoelt word; Haak 6 nld met 1 v in iedere v, kunt u mij dit uitlegggen ?

DROPS Design 14.04.2015 kl. 17:01:

Hoi Halima. Je hebt 70 v op de toer. Vervolgens haak je nog 6 toeren met 1 v in elke van de 70 v.

Alexandra 30.12.2013 - 19:16:

Habe diese Tasche gleich zweimal gehäkelt. Sie sieht sehr schön aus und ist auch leicht zu häkeln, die Anleitung ist sehr gut geschrieben. Leider reicht die angegebene Garnmenge nicht aus, und obwohl ich die zweite Tasche extra kleiner gehäkelt habe, hat es auch da nicht gereicht. Meine Empfehlung ist, mind. 50 gr. der Hauptfarbe mehr einzurechnen.

Wijnanda Van Burg 16.04.2013 - 10:28:

Dag, Ik heb deze tas gehaakt, maar 250gram van het ijsblauw is echt te weinig. Ik heb nu met het wit wat ik over had de rand aan de tas gehaakt en dat staat ook niet gek, maar als je het in het blauw wilt haken, zeker 300gram bestellen!

Jo 08.02.2013 - 08:22:

Snap niet hoe de rand op de tas gehaakt wordt, kan iemand dat uitleggen?

DROPS Design 12.02.2013 kl. 12:26:

Kan je misschien uitleggen precies waar het mis gaat? Je kan eventueel kijken op de video's hoe je een bepaalde steek haakt, of ga naar de winkel voor persoonlijke ondersteuning.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 120-9

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.