DROPS Baby / 10 / 5

Paddington by DROPS Design

DROPS Jacket in moss st and crochet hat in Muskat

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months – 2 – 3/4 years
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 - 86/92 - 98/104

Materials: DROPS MUSKAT from Garnstudio
250-250-300 -300-350 g colour no 15, blue

DROPS pointed needles size 3 and 4 mm

DROPS Smily buttons no 554, 5 pcs

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Cotton
from 1.60 £ /50g
DROPS Muskat uni colour DROPS Muskat uni colour 1.60 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension: 21 sts x 42 rows on needle size 4 mm in moss sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows.
Rib: *K1/P1*, repeat from *-*.
Pattern: See diagrams M.1 and M.2. The diagram shows the pattern from the right side.
Buttonhole, jacket: Make buttonholes on right front edge from the RS: cast off 5th st from the edge and cast on 1 new st on the return row. Make buttonholes as follows:
Size 1/3 months: 2, 7, 12, 17 and 22 cm
Size 6/9 months: 2, 8, 13, 19 and 24 cm
Size 12/18 months: 3, 9, 15, 21 and 27 cm
Size 2 years: 3, 10, 17, 24 and 31 cm
Size 3/4 years: 4, 12, 19, 26 and 34 cm

Back piece: Cast on 56-62-68-78-82 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm. Knit 4 rows stocking sts and 4 rows Rib. Change to needle size 4 mm and knit M.1. After M.1 finish the piece in M.2. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 17-18-21-24-25 cm cast off for armhole each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 3-3-3-5-4 times = 36-42-48-54-60 sts. When piece measures 25-27-32-35-38 cm cast off the middle 16-18-20-20-22 sts for neck and dec 1 st towards neckline on next row = 9-11-13-16-18 sts left on each shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33-37-40 cm.
Left front: Cast on 36-38-41-46-48 sts (incl 1 edge st at side + 7 front band sts) on needle size 3 mm. Knit as follows from mid front (as seen from the RS): 1 garter st, K1, P1, K1, P1, K1, P1 (= 7 front band sts) and stocking st over remaining sts. Repeat over 4 rows. Now knit Rib over all sts in stocking st and continue over 7 front band sts as described above over 4 rows. Now put the 7 front band sts on a thread (completed afterwards and sewn to front edge). Change to needle size 4 mm and knit M.1. After M.1 finish the piece in M.2. When piece measures 17-18-21-24-25 cm cast off for armhole at side as described for back piece = 19-21-24-27-30 sts. When piece measures 23-25-28-32-35 cm cast off 5 sts towards mid front for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 1-1-1-1-2 times and 1 st 3-3-4-4-3 times = 9-11-13-16-18 sts left on shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33-37-40 cm.

Right front: Cast on and knit as left front, but reversed.

Sleeve: Cast on 36-38-40-42-44 sts (incl 1 edge st each side) on needle size 3 mm. Knit 4 rows stocking sts and 4 rows Rib. Change to needle size 4 mm and knit M.1. After M.1 finish the piece in M.2. Remember the knitting tension. At the same time when piece measures 4 cm inc 1 st each side a total of 2-3-5-6-8 times on every 8-6-3.5-3-3 cm = 40-44-50-54-60 sts. When piece measures approx 18-20-22-24-28 cm cast off for sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st until piece measures 23-25-27-30-34 cm and then 2 sts until piece measures 24-26-28-31-35 cm. Cast off remaining sts.

Assembly: Put the 7 front band sts from left front piece back on needle size 3 mm and knit Rib as described for front piece (K first st towards mid front). Continue until front band is nearly the same length as front piece – the band is stretched approx 2 cm when sewn on. Put sts on a thread. Repeat on right front piece and remember buttonholes as described above. Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 50 to 60 sts (divisible by 2 and incl sts on threads) round the neck on needle size 3 mm. Knit 4 rows Rib with K1 each side towards mid front, 4 rows stocking st and cast off. Set in sleeves and sew sleeve and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew on buttons.


Size: 1/6 months –1/2 – 3/4 years
To fit head circumference: 44-47-50 cm

Materials: Garnstudio’s Muskat
100-100-100 g colour no 61, light beige

DROPS crochet hook size 3 mm

Crochet tension: 21 dc x 24 rows on crochet hook size 3 mm = 10 x 10 cm

Crochet 4 ch and form a ring with a sl st. Crochet 1 ch, 6 dc in ring and finish with 1 ch.
1st round: 2 dc in each dc = 12 dc (insert a marking thread at the beg of round)
2nd round: *1 dc in first dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* = 18 dc
3rd round: *1 dc in the first 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* = 24 dc
4th round: *1 dc in the first 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* = 30 dc
5th round: *1 dc in the first 4 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* = 36 dc
Repeat this inc of 6 dc per round (i.e. with one more dc between each inc) until piece measures approx 7-8-9 cm from the middle (the circumference inc by approx 2 cm for each round with inc – continue until circumference = approx 44-47-50 cm). Continue with 1 dc in each dc until piece measures approx 16-17-18 cm from the middle. Crochet next round as follows: *2 dc, 2 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-*. Now crochet 15 rounds with 1 dc in each dc (= rolling edge). Cut the thread and sew.


= K
= P

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 10-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (25)

Andrea 13.10.2020 - 17:44:

Warum soll die Blende nachher angenäht werden? Die Frage ist öben zwar gestellt, aber nicht richtig beantwortet worden. Vielen Dank schon mal!

DROPS Design 14.10.2020 kl. 07:38:

Liebe Andrea, Vorderteile werden mit Nadeln 4 gestrickt, die Blenden werden mit Nadeln 3 gestrickt, deshalb werden sie separat gestrickt und angenäht. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Jo 01.05.2020 - 20:16:

This is a knotting pattern not crochet as labelled

Rosi 01.04.2020 - 16:48:

Was ist der Vorteil, die Blende an der Jacke paddington extra zu stricken um sie dann an zu nähen?

DROPS Design 02.04.2020 kl. 07:35:

Liebe Rosi, die Blendemaschen gehören zur Maschenanzahl, die für den Vorderteil angeschlagen ist, diese 7 Maschen stricken Sie im Bündchen 1 M re/1 M li + 1 Randmasche krausrechts (siehe 7Blendemaschen in der Anleitung). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Marie-Christine De Bruin 24.03.2020 - 14:19:

Je ne comprend pas si la bordure verticale est faite en point mousse, en point de riz ou en cotes 1/1. D'autre part le bas du dos est fait de 4 rangées de point mousse puis de 4 rangées de côtes 1/1 ( très mignon) mais pour le bas du devant on nous indique de faire 4 rangées de point jersey ce qui ne me parait pas logique. Qu'en pensez-vous?

DROPS Design 24.03.2020 kl. 14:26:

Bonjour Mme De Bruin, je suis désolée, l'erreur était sous le dos, on doit bien avoir d'abord 4 rangs jersey puis 4 rangs de côtes en bas. On termine la bordure des devants (= 7 mailles) tout à la fin (cf Assemblage) en côtes 1/1, avec 1 m lis au point mousse sur le côté. On les coudra ensuite le long des devants. Bon tricot!

Carmen 12.07.2019 - 22:55:

Thanks for reply. What do you mean by (for the back) When piece lets say 27cm cast off at the middle 18 sts for the neck and decrease 1 stitches towards the neckline until 11 stitches remain on left shoulder. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 29cm. Usually you knit so any sts than decrease middle stitches and turn working on one shoulder at a time decreasing one stitch at neck edge until you have 11 stitches remaining then cast off. Join yarn to other side of shoulder and work same .

DROPS Design 15.07.2019 kl. 08:49:

Dear Carmen, that's also how you will do here: when piece measures 27 cm, work next row casting off the middle 18 stitches for neck, then work each shoulder separately casting off 1 stitch on next row from shoulder = 11 sts remain. Work until piece measures 29 cm and cast off all stitches. Join the yarn and work the shoulder the same way. Happy knitting!

Carmen 12.07.2019 - 13:35:

The pattern is very hard to understand. it is not written in an easy format

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 15:11:

Dear Carmen, The DROPS patterns are knitted and crocheted by thousands and thousands of people  around the world. We understand however that in certain countries, with different knitting/crochet traditions than Scandinavia, our patterns might be written in a way that differs from what some are used to. But of course we want everyone to understand our patterns, so that’s why we have created an extensive library of tutorial videos as well as step by step lessons that explain how to follow the techniques we use and how to read the diagrams in our patterns. Give them a try!

Carmen 12.07.2019 - 13:08:

What does bind off mean

DROPS Design 12.07.2019 kl. 13:11:

Hi Carmen. It means to cast off. Happy crafting

Mélanie Guergen 11.01.2019 - 10:00:

Bonjour, Merci pour ces très jolis modèles, je voudrais réaliser le chapeau, dois-je faire 1 ml au début de chaque rang, et 1mc à la fin de chaque tour ?

DROPS Design 11.01.2019 kl. 12:23:

Bonjour Mme Guergen, tout à fait, crochetez en tours, normalement, avec 1 ml au début du tour et 1 mc dans la ml du début du tour. Bon crochet!

Lidia Johansson 25.08.2018 - 18:11:

Jag virkar hatten och kom ganska långt i arbete men jag tror att jag gjorde ngt fel. Jag har kommit till 26 cm I diametern. Den biten ser väldigt platt ut nästan som ett lock på en gryta. Kan detta stämma?Med vänliga hälsningar. Lidia J.

DROPS Design 30.08.2018 kl. 14:29:

Hej, du ska virka och öka tills arb har en omkrets på ca 44-47-50 cm, dvs. tills arb mäter 7-8-9 cm från mitten. Sedan fortsätter du utan ökningar och hatten får då sin runda form.

Lidia Johansson 24.07.2018 - 14:59:

Tack för den underbara koftan och hatten och tack för gratis beskrivningen. Jag ska göra hatten. Jag förstår inte hur man ska göra på slutet. Det sista meningen. Ska jag göra 2fm I 2 följande 2m och sedan2f i 1m. Jag hoppas att ni kan svara på min fråga. MVH L. Johansson

DROPS Design 31.07.2018 kl. 11:20:

Hei Lidia. Ja, det stemmer: Du hekler 1 fastmaske i den første masken, 1 fastmaske i den neste, 2 fastmasker i den neste. Gjenta dette ut omgangen. God fornøyelse

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