DROPS Extra / 0-523

Sneaky Santa by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS Christmas slippers in ”Eskimo”. Sizes for children and adult.

US: 4½/6 -7½/9½ -10½/13 -2/4 (5/6½ -7½/9 -10/12)
EU: 22/23 -25/27 -28/31 -32/34 (35/37 -38/40 -42/44)

Foot length: 15-17-19-21 (23-25-28) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4" (9"-9

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 (100-100-150) g color no 08, red
50 g for all sizes color no 01, off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 13, tan
A remnant of black for eyes

FOR SIZE Child 4½ - Woman 4 (EU 22-34):
DROPS CROCHET HOOK 10½/K (7 mm) – or size needed to get 14 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

FOR SIZE Woman 5-12 (EU 35-44):
DROPS CROCHET HOOK 11/L (8 mm) – or size needed to get 11 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 8.55$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Replace first sc at beg of round/row with 1 ch. Finish each round/row with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round/from beg of previous row.

Beg by the toes and crochet with off-white and crochet hook size 7 (8) mm.
ROUND 1: Ch 3 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 2: Crochet 4-4-5-5 (5-5-6) sc in ring – See CROCHET INFO above!
ROUND 3: 2 sc in each sc = 8-8-10-10 (10-10-12) sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 12-12-15-15 (15-15-18) sc.
ROUND 5-6: 1 sc in each sc.
ROUND 7 (this round only applies to size woman 5-12 (EU 35-44)): 1 sc in each sc.
ROUND 7 (8): * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 16-16-20-20 (20-20-24) sc.
Continue with 1 sc in each sc.
When piece measures 5-5-6-7 (7-8-10) cm / 2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" (2 3/4"-3 1/8"-4") change to tan and continue until piece measures 7-8-9-10 (10-12-14) cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½"-4"- (4"-4 3/4"-5½").

Change to red, AT THE SAME TIME divide piece and crochet back and forth from mid upper foot – remember CROCHET INFO!
When slipper measures 15-17-19-21 (23-25-28) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4" (9"-9 3/4"-11") place it flat and crochet tog mid back with a row of sl sts through both layers. Cut and fasten thread.

Crochet 1 round sc with red round the opening (beg mid front) = approx 22-26-28-30 (26-28-30) sc. Continue in the round with 1 sc in each sc until leg measures approx 3-3-4-4 (5-5-6) cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½"-1½" (2"-2"-2 3/8"). Now continue back and forth on only half the sts - i.e. from mid front to mid back - crochet sc, AT THE SAME TIME dec to create a point as follows: * turn with 1 ch, skip first sc and crochet 1 sc in each sc until 1 sc remain *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, cut and fasten thread.

Make a small off-white pompom with a diameter of approx 2-2-2-2 (3-3-3) cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8") and attach to the top of the point on leg (= top of Santa’s hat). Fold leg down towards RS. Make another pompom in red and sew it to mid upper foot in the transition between off-white and tan = Santa’s nose.
Sew a few black sts above the nose for eyes.

Crochet the other slipper in the same way, but when making Santa’s hat crochet on the opposite side of slipper, i.e. crochet from mid back to mid front in order to have the hat at the other side.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-523) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (51)

Nicole 16.08.2020 - 20:06:

Wat bedoeld u in het patroon met 8-8-10-10 enz? Zou ze graag maken voor kerst maar snap het parroon niet echt😔

DROPS Design 17.08.2020 kl. 19:24:

Dag Nicole,

Als er een reeks getallen staan dan correspondeert deze met de reeks maten. Dus het eerste getal geldt voor maat 22/24, het tweede getal voor maat 25/27, enzovoort.

Helen 29.12.2019 - 20:07:

It’s ok I’ve figured it out now having seen how the heel is created! I can see the opening left has the right number of stitches.

Helen 29.12.2019 - 10:42:

When moving from heel to the leg section the stitches for my size go from 20 to 28 but there is no mention of how to increase or where. Please can you advise? Thank you

DROPS Design 02.01.2020 kl. 13:20:

Dear Helen, I'm not sure to understand your question properly, this video shows how to make this kind of slippers , finishing heel start at time code 1:18 and then leg section starts at time code 1:53, hope this helps. Happy crocheting!

Nica 19.12.2019 - 10:00:

Buongiorno, quando arrivo a lavorare il tallone, quanti punti devo lasciare in sospeso per il collo del piede? Grazie, Nica

DROPS Design 19.12.2019 kl. 22:39:

Buonasera Nica, quando arriva a lavorare il tallone, deve smettere di lavorare in tondo e proseguire in piano. Buon lavoro!

Nicole 11.12.2019 - 13:57:

Hello! I would love to use this pattern and make the socks, however I don't understand the pattern the way it's written. Can you please help? For example, for "ROUND 2: Crochet 4-4-5-5 (5-5-6) sc in ring – See CROCHET INFO above!" What does the 4-4-5-5 (5-5-6) mean? What are the numbers before the parentheses, and the ones inside the parentheses?

DROPS Design 11.12.2019 kl. 14:30:

Dear Nicole, each number refers to the size - ie in first 2 sizes, you crochet 4 sc, in the 3rd, 4th, 5th, 6th, 7th size, you crochet 5 sc and in the largest size, you crochet 6 sc. Happy crocheting!

Anita Christensen 16.11.2019 - 00:40:

Hej hos DROPS - jeg er på den tredie af disse herlige futter MEN jeg er ikke tildreds med den "takkede" kan på nissehuen. Hvordan får jeg en pæn og lige kant når jeg skal tage ind i hver side af hver række? tak for alle pragtfulde opskrifter - og gode instruktionsvideoer.

DROPS Design 21.11.2019 kl. 09:10:

Hej Anita, åh de er så søde :) Du kan prøve at tage ind ved at hækle de yderste masker sammen i hver side... Samme princip som denne video

How to decrease in double crochet (dc) stitches from Garnstudio Drops design on Vimeo.

Adeline 12.12.2018 - 14:18:

Bonjour, Si j'utilise la couleur rouge en aller et retour, je me retrouve avec le rouge au dessus du chameau diviser en deux dès le début. Or sur votre photo le rouge recouvre bien le dessus du pied sur une longueur assez importante. J'ai bien compris pour l'assemblage du talon en maille coulée mais je ne comprends pas comment avoir ce rouge non divisé?

DROPS Design 12.12.2018 kl. 14:46:

Bonjour Adeline, vous continuez bien en allers et retours à partir de la partie en rouge. Quand le pied sera terminé et assemblé, vous crochèterez des ms en rond tout autour de l'ouverture du chausson pour la tige (jambe), partie que l'on voit sur la photo. Bon crochet!

Anna 29.11.2018 - 13:48:

Hej! När man ska ersätta första fm på ett nytt varv hoppar man över maskan som den fasta skulle suttit i? Eller gör man en lm och sedan nästa fm där den första egentligen skulle suttit? Så enligt mönstret ska man alltid dra bort en fm från angivet antal fm? Gäller detta alla rader?

DROPS Design 03.12.2018 kl. 10:26:

Hei Anna. Når du skal erstatte en fm med luftmaske på begynnelsen av omgangen betyr det at du hopper over den første fm på omgangen - altså på hver omgang som starter med en fastmaske. Om du ikke hopper over fastmasken vil luftmaskene komme i tillegg. I noen oppskirfter hekles det slik, men dette står spesifisert. Her skal du alstå hoppe over den første fastmasken på omgangen, og gå rett videre til neste maske. Denne hekles i den masken det står at den hekles i. Når lufmasken erstatter første fastmaske teller denne med i maskeantalelt. God fornøyelse.

Caroline 20.11.2018 - 19:43:

Det kan godt hende det er fordi jeg er nybegynner, men får ikke til heklefastheten til de mindre størrelsene. Er det virkelig riktig at det skal være 14 fm, for jeg får bare rundt 10, selv med 5 mm-nål?

DROPS Design 23.11.2018 kl. 11:03:

Hei Caroline. Ja dette stemmer, du må ha 14 fm = 10 cm for at målene på tøffelen skal bli rikitg. Det er veldig individuelt hvordan man hekler, så du må endre heklenålen etter heklefasteheten - selvom det i dette tilfellet betyr å gå ned flere størrelser. God fornøyelse

Mara Abete 08.12.2015 - 13:15:

Bonjour Avez-vous une adresse de mercerie qui vendrait vos laines DROPS au Luxembourg où j'habite ? Cordialement. Mara

DROPS Design 08.12.2015 kl. 17:27:

Bonjour Mme Abete, il n'y a pas encore de revendeur DROPS au Luxembourg, vous pouvez commander dans une des boutiques en ligne en France ou en Belgique. Bon crochet!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Extra 0-523

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.

From the #dropsfan gallery


Muttis kreative dukkehus, Denmark