DROPS Extra / 0-523

Sneaky Santa by DROPS Design

Crochet DROPS Christmas slippers in ”Eskimo”. Sizes for children and adult.

US: 4½/6 -7½/9½ -10½/13 -2/4 (5/6½ -7½/9 -10/12)
EU: 22/23 -25/27 -28/31 -32/34 (35/37 -38/40 -42/44)

Foot length: 15-17-19-21 (23-25-28) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4" (9"-9

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
50-50-50-50 (100-100-150) g color no 08, red
50 g for all sizes color no 01, off-white
50 g for all sizes color no 13, tan
A remnant of black for eyes

FOR SIZE Child 4½ - Woman 4 (EU 22-34):
DROPS CROCHET HOOK 10½/K (7 mm) – or size needed to get 14 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

FOR SIZE Woman 5-12 (EU 35-44):
DROPS CROCHET HOOK 11/L (8 mm) – or size needed to get 11 sc = width 10 cm / 4''.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!
Not sure which size you should choose? Then it might help you to know that the model in the picture is approx. 5 ft 7 in and uses size S or M. If you are making a sweater, cardigan, dress or similar garment, you will find a graphic with the measurements of the finished garment (in cm) at the bottom of the pattern.

100% Wool
from 2.00 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.00 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.30 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.50 $ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 6.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Replace first sc at beg of round/row with 1 ch. Finish each round/row with 1 sl st in ch from beg of round/from beg of previous row.

Beg by the toes and crochet with off-white and crochet hook size 7 (8) mm.
ROUND 1: Ch 3 and form a ring with 1 sl st in first ch.
ROUND 2: Crochet 4-4-5-5 (5-5-6) sc in ring – See CROCHET INFO above!
ROUND 3: 2 sc in each sc = 8-8-10-10 (10-10-12) sc.
ROUND 4: * 1 sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 12-12-15-15 (15-15-18) sc.
ROUND 5-6: 1 sc in each sc.
ROUND 7 (this round only applies to size woman 5-12 (EU 35-44)): 1 sc in each sc.
ROUND 7 (8): * 1 sc in each of the first 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 16-16-20-20 (20-20-24) sc.
Continue with 1 sc in each sc.
When piece measures 5-5-6-7 (7-8-10) cm / 2"-2"-2 3/8"-2 3/4" (2 3/4"-3 1/8"-4") change to tan and continue until piece measures 7-8-9-10 (10-12-14) cm / 2 3/4"-3 1/8"-3½"-4"- (4"-4 3/4"-5½").

Change to red, AT THE SAME TIME divide piece and crochet back and forth from mid upper foot – remember CROCHET INFO!
When slipper measures 15-17-19-21 (23-25-28) cm / 6"-6 3/4"-7½"-8 1/4" (9"-9 3/4"-11") place it flat and crochet tog mid back with a row of sl sts through both layers. Cut and fasten thread.

Crochet 1 round sc with red round the opening (beg mid front) = approx 22-26-28-30 (26-28-30) sc. Continue in the round with 1 sc in each sc until leg measures approx 3-3-4-4 (5-5-6) cm / 1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1½"-1½" (2"-2"-2 3/8"). Now continue back and forth on only half the sts - i.e. from mid front to mid back - crochet sc, AT THE SAME TIME dec to create a point as follows: * turn with 1 ch, skip first sc and crochet 1 sc in each sc until 1 sc remain *, repeat from *-* until 2 sts remain, cut and fasten thread.

Make a small off-white pompom with a diameter of approx 2-2-2-2 (3-3-3) cm / 3/4"-3/4"-3/4"-3/4" (1 1/8"-1 1/8"-1 1/8") and attach to the top of the point on leg (= top of Santa’s hat). Fold leg down towards RS. Make another pompom in red and sew it to mid upper foot in the transition between off-white and tan = Santa’s nose.
Sew a few black sts above the nose for eyes.

Crochet the other slipper in the same way, but when making Santa’s hat crochet on the opposite side of slipper, i.e. crochet from mid back to mid front in order to have the hat at the other side.

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Extra 0-523) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (50)

DROPS Design 05.11.2015 - 14:05:

There is now a new video showing how to work this kind of slippers - but remember to follow the written pattern at the same time (for number of sts, increase, etc..). Happy crocheting!

Virginia 02.11.2015 - 00:02:

I am so disappointed in this pattern! I have read all this stuff and still have no idea how to do the heel. Beyond aggravated! It would have been so much easier for us trying to follow the pattern if you would have put the directions in there! I'm about to give up and would hesitate buying one of your patterns afraid it wouldn't be any clearer then this is.

DROPS Design 02.11.2015 kl. 10:13:

Dear Virginia, sorry you get worries about the pattern, slippers are worked from the toe, first in the round, then back and forth for the opening of leg. When you have reach length for slipper, crochet tog the last row with a sl st row - see also video below. Remember your DROPS store will always help you with tips and advices when required. Happy crocheting!

Maggy 12.10.2015 - 18:30:

Bonjour, pour l'échantillon, il est écrit 14ms pour 10 cm de largeur, mais combien de rang en ms faut il faire ? Merci

DROPS Design 13.10.2015 kl. 09:33:

Bonjour Maggy, pour avoir la bonne taille, le plus important est le nbe de ms en largeur, la hauteur sera ajustée en cm (pas en nbe de rangs). Bon crochet!

Carmen 08.10.2015 - 13:28:

Estoy realizando estas pantuflas y veo que la estimación de ovillos de color rojo para realizar un par no se ajusta a lo que indica el patrón. Con 50gr no me alcanza más que para un pie. La talla que estoy realizando es la de 28/31. Tanto si lo hago con aguja de 7 como con una menor me falta material. Podríais revisar el patrón? Yo creo que necesito algo más de 100gr para un par de esa talla

DROPS Design 10.10.2015 kl. 11:33:

Hola Carmen. La cantidad de la lana en este modelo está ajustada. Hay que tener en cuenta la tensión recomendada en el patrón, es decir, si trabajas más prieto vas a necesitar más lana. Con 100 gr yo he tejido la talla grande. Ten en cuenta también que los pompones son pequeños.

Anna 14.03.2015 - 17:08:

J'ai réalisé ces chaussons que j'ai offert à ma fille pour Noël, effet garanti, un vrai succès !

Helen Andersson 02.01.2015 - 17:48:

Hej! Undrar när man kommit till det röda garnet. Förstår inte hur man delar och hur man får ihop häl och skaft. Tacksam för svar. Med vänlig hälsning Helen

DROPS Design 04.02.2015 kl. 16:00:

Hej Helen, efter kamel fortsätter du längs med resten av foten bakåt mot hälen med rött. Sy ihop bak i hälen. Sedan virkar du skaftet i det röda runt om toffelns öppning. Lycka till!

Virginie 14.11.2014 - 16:59:

Bjr, Pourquoi doit on diviser l'ouvrage en deux si c'est pour le refermer ensuite avec des mailles coulees, et comme le dit Plet pourquoi au milieu dessus pied , est ce une erreur ? ce n'est pas tres clair, pouvez vous m'expliquer svp merci

DROPS Design 15.11.2014 kl. 09:38:

Bonjour Virginie, quand on change pour le fil rouge, on n'arrête de crocheter en rond et on continue en allers et retours pour créer l'ouverture pour y passer le pied. Quand la longueur totale du chausson est atteinte, on plie le dernier rang rouge en double et on assemble en mc au dos du talon. Bon crochet!

Karin 06.11.2014 - 13:27:

Ich musste ein bisschen mit der Grösse probieren aber ansonsten sind sie toll geworden ...um sie ein bisschen stabiler zu machen habe ich Einlegesohlen eingelegt.

Judith 05.10.2014 - 11:14:

Ik heb de video gezien over de hiel, maar dan nog begrijp ik het rode gedeelte niet. Het werk middenvoor op de voet splitsen en op de voet heen en weer haken? En vervolgens middenachter weer sluiten.... Ik kom er echt niet uit!

DROPS Design 07.10.2014 kl. 17:04:

Hoi Judith. Je begint bij de tenen van de slof (in wit). Je deelt het werk in het rode gedeelte en haakt heen en weer (= dit is de opening voor je voet). Aan het eind vouw je de laatste toer over elkaar en sluit de naad (= hiel)

Clara 28.09.2014 - 23:53:

My granddaughter asked if I could make these for her...being a crocheter off and on for 50+ years, I said of course. The pattern was very confusing and not very clear. The heel portion would have been much easier if you had enclosed some pictures. I had to watch several other youtubes to finally figure out what you must have meant. Needless to say, my first one was not very good...but, now,I plan to make a pair that will fit her. They are VERY cute!

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