DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

DROPS SS24

Killian

Set of knitted domino jacket in garter st in DROPS Fabel and pants in rib st in DROPS Alpaca for baby and children

DROPS Baby 18-25
Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measures:
Bust: 52-56-64 (68-72) cm [20½”-22”-25¼” (26¾”-28 3/8”)]
Full length: 27-29-33 (35-38) cm [10 5/8”-11 3/8”-13” (13¾”-15”)]

Materials:
JACKET: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150-150-200 (200-250) g color no 910, sea mist
PANTS: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-150) g color no 0100, off-white

JACKET:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm [32’’]) size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 511: 3-4-4 (5-5) pcs.

PANTS:
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’]) size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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DROPS Fabel
DROPS Fabel
75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.00 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca
DROPS Alpaca
100% Alpaca
from 4.85 $ /50g
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.70$.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
JACKET:

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st on each side of st with marker by making 1 YO. On return row work YO into back of st in order to avoid a hole.
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JACKET:
Worked from side to side from sleeve towards the middle of jacket, in 2 pieces sewn tog mid back afterwards.

RIGHT HALF:
Worked back and forth on circular needle in garter st.
Cast on 36-38-40 (40-42) sts on circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel and work garter st.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
When piece measures 6-6-5 (5-6) cm [2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2” (2”-2 3/8”)] inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 8th row a total of 6-7-9 (11-13) times = 48-52-58 (62-68) sts. Continue until piece measures 17-19-20 (25-29) cm [6¾”-7½”-8” (9¾”-11 3/8”)] – adjust so that next row is from RS.
BODY PIECE: K 1 row from RS, at the end of row cast on 41-43-50 (53-58) sts (= towards back piece) = 89-95-108 (115-126) sts.
NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Work return row. Insert a marker from RS in the second st on row (= right side of piece) and continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st on each side of st with marker on every other row a total of 38-40-46 (48-50) times – SEE INCREASING TIP. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8½-9-10½ (11-12) cm [3¼”-3½”-4¼” (4 3/8”-4¾”)] continue on the last 60-65-74 (79-86) sts only on the left side of piece as seen from the RS (= back piece). Slip remaining sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE: Continue until piece measures 13-14-16 (17-18) cm [5 1/8”-5½”-6¼” (6¾”-7”)] (from where sts were cast on for back piece), and bind off.

FRONT PIECE: Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle, but leave 9-10-10 (10-12) sts towards back piece on stitch holder for neckline. Continue to inc on every other row, AT THE SAME TIME bind off 1 st towards neckline on every 4th row a total of 6-7-7 (7-7) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-15-17 (18-19) cm [5½”-6”-6¾” (7”-7½”)] (from where inc for front pieces beg) bind off for 3-4-4 (5-5) buttonholes as follows (from neckline, i.e. from WS): work 2 sts, bind off 2 sts, * work 12-9-11 (9-10) sts, bind off 2 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3 (4-4) times, and then work remaining sts on row. On return row cast on 2 new sts over the bind off sts.
After dec and inc are complete there are 90-93-109 (115-121) sts on row. Now bind off 51-52-62 (66-70) sts from WS from neckline and down along front band = 39-41-47 (49-51) sts left on row. Continue in garter st back and forth on these sts for approx 1-1-2 (2-3) cm [3/8”-3/8”-3/4” (3/4”-1 1/8”)] (fold piece double by shoulder to measure front piece to back piece) and bind off.

LEFT HALF:
Like right half, but without buttonholes – this half is assembled with WS out.

ASSEMBLY:
Place the 2 halves towards each other and sew tog mid back – edge to edge in order to avoid a chunky seam. Fold jacket double and sew under arm and side seams in outer loops of sts. Sew on buttons.

NECKLINE:
Pick up 55 to 75 sts (incl sts on stitch holders) round neckline on circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel. Work 3 rows garter st back and forth on needle and bind off.
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PANTS:

INCREASING TIP:
Inc 1 st on each side of the 2 K sts mid back (marker sits between these 2 sts). Inc by working 2 sts in 1 st and incorporate inc sts in rib as you go along.

DECREASING TIP:
Dec 1 st on each side of marker mid front. Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

LEG:
Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-60-64 (68-72) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Alpaca. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. Continue as follows: K1, * P2 / K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and K1. When piece measures 4 cm [1½”] inc 1 st on each side of marker by K 2 sts in 1 st on every 5-6-8 (9-12) round a total of 8 times = 72-76-80 (84-88) sts.
When leg measures 16-20-23 (25-33) cm [6¼”-8”-9” (9¾”-13”)] divide the piece by marker and continue back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip both legs on the same circular needle afterwards), AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 74-78-82 (86-90) sts. When piece measures 18-22-25 (27-35) cm [7”-8¾”-9¾” (10 5/8”-13¾”)] bind off 5 sts each side (= 1 edge st, K1, P2 and K1) = 64-68-72 (76-80) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

PANTS:
Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] = 128-136-144 (152-160) sts. Insert 1 marker mid front and 1 marker mid back (both markers should sit between 2 K sts). Continue in rib, K2 / P2, AT THE SAME TIME inc mid back and dec mid front as follows:
INC MID BACK: Inc 2 sts – SEE INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc on every 4th round a total of 4 times.
DEC MID FRONT: Dec 2 sts – SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec on every 4th round a total of 8 times.
After all inc and dec are complete there are 120-128-136 (144-152) sts on round. Continue in rib until piece measures 38-42-47 (52-60) cm [15”-16½”-18½” (20½”-23 5/8”)], bind off.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew inside of legs at the top inside 1 edge st. Sew opening between legs, front of leg towards back of leg.




Diagram

All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = = knitting direction
diagram
diagram
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Killian

Christine, United Kingdom

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Comments / Questions (91)

country flag Paulette wrote:

I am working the sweater. I got to the 108 stitches. And now I am stumped! The 50 cast on stitches are the back of the sweater? Why am I inc. 1 stitch ea side of marker? Where is that on the schematics?

02.09.2023 - 03:02

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Paulette, yes, the 50 stitches cast on are for the back of the sweater. Now you work the back piece and at the same time you work the increases for the shape of the front. That's the 1 stitch at each side of the marker. This would be the part where you have a discontinuous diagonal line on the front piece. Happy knitting!

03.09.2023 - 23:57

country flag Gloria wrote:

Hola. Creo que no explican el aumento de uno de los lados. Solo dice montar 43 puntos (talla 2) para la espalda pero pareciera que solo ese lado de la espalda lleva los puntos nuevos montados, y no la parte del frente, creo que es una omisión porque no encontré los nuevos puntos a montar en el lado del frente. Sin embargo me guié por el dibujo y así lo estoy sacando. Gracias, muy hermoso diseño.

13.07.2023 - 02:02

country flag Monika wrote:

Hallo, was heißt beim Jäckchen "TOTAL .... wiederholen"? Danke.

07.07.2023 - 21:53

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Monika, die Zunahmen sollen Sie so oft wiederholen, wie für die Grösse geschrieben wird. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

27.07.2023 - 09:26

country flag Ettie wrote:

Hallo hoe brei ik de linkermuisknop en voorpand?

17.03.2023 - 19:06

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ettie,

Deze kun je precies hetzelfde breien als de rechter helft maar dan zonder knoopsgaten. Je hoeft hem ook niet in spiegelbeeld te breien, want de rechter helft wordt met de verdeerde kant naar buiten aan de linker helft genaaid.

19.03.2023 - 16:45

country flag Ettie wrote:

Ik snap niet aan welke kant ik de meerderingen moet doen nadat ik de mouw heb gebreid? Aan de kant van de nieuw opgezette steken of aan de andere kant?

11.03.2023 - 11:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ettie,

Je breit aan de goede kant en je zet steken op aan het einde van de naald, dus de opgezette steken zijn voor het achterpand. Het meerderen doe je op het voorpand, dus aan de andere kant van de naald, aan iedere kant van de markeerdraad.

12.03.2023 - 11:49

country flag Annie Lafont wrote:

Pourriez vous me dire si les explications de ce modèle existent en francais pour femme merci

17.12.2022 - 10:53

country flag Annie Lafont wrote:

Magnifique, je voudrais savoir si les explications de ce modele existent en francais merci l

17.12.2022 - 10:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Lafont, votre vœu est exaucé: cliquez sur le menu déroulant sous la photo pour obtenir les explications en français. Bon tricot!

19.12.2022 - 08:48

country flag Anneke Pettinga wrote:

Hallo. Heb een vraag over dropshot baby 18 _25.Rechterhelft moet ik meerderen na de merkdraad. Moet dat 40 x2( aan bijde kant 1) of totaal 40 dus 20 x 1? Alvast bedankt

12.02.2022 - 21:50

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Anneke,

Je meerdert aan beide kanten van de markeerdraad dus 40 keer in totaal en dit doe je om de naald, dus de ene naald wel en de andere naald niet. Er zijn dan 80 steken bij gekomen; aan elke kant van de markeerdraad 40 steken.

13.02.2022 - 10:12

country flag Antonella wrote:

Quando si aumentano le 2 maglie ai lati della seconda maglia, cosa si intende per lavorare a coste? Grazie

03.01.2022 - 14:24

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Antonella, deve incorporare gli aumenti nella lavorazione a coste. Buon lavoro!

03.01.2022 - 20:00

country flag Antonia wrote:

Hola..cuando dice aumento cada 2 hileras. Se hace el aumento y despues se tejen 2 hileras mas y en la 3era hilera se realiza el nuevo aumento o no . Gracias por los patrones son hermosos.

26.08.2021 - 08:03

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Antonia, esto significa que haces una hilera y aumentas en otra (secunda) hilera, etc. Buen trabajo!

27.08.2021 - 08:57