Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 - 3/4) years
Finished measures:
Bust: 52-56-64 (68-72) cm [20½”-22”-25¼” (26¾”-28 3/8”)]
Full length: 27-29-33 (35-38) cm [10 5/8”-11 3/8”-13” (13¾”-15”)]

JACKET: DROPS FABEL from Garnstudio
150-150-200 (200-250) g color no 910, sea mist
PANTS: DROPS ALPACA from Garnstudio
100-100-150 (150-150) g color no 0100, off-white

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE (80 cm [32’’]) size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 24 sts x 48 rows in garter st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].
DROPS WOODEN BUTTON no 511: 3-4-4 (5-5) pcs.

DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES and CIRCULAR NEEDLE (40 cm [16’’]) size 3 mm [US 2or3] – or size needed to get 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette st = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


75% Wool, 25% Polyamide
from 3.20 $ /50g
DROPS Fabel uni colour DROPS Fabel uni colour 3.20 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Fabel print DROPS Fabel print 3.35 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Fabel long print DROPS Fabel long print 3.75 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns

100% Alpaca
from 3.70 $ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.70 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.90 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
needles DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 17.00$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

INCREASING TIP: Inc 1 st on each side of st with marker by making 1 YO. On return row work YO into back of st in order to avoid a hole.
Worked from side to side from sleeve towards the middle of jacket, in 2 pieces sewn tog mid back afterwards.

Worked back and forth on circular needle in garter st.
Cast on 36-38-40 (40-42) sts on circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel and work garter st.
When piece measures 6-6-5 (5-6) cm [2 3/8”-2 3/8”-2” (2”-2 3/8”)] inc 1 st each side and repeat the inc on every 8th row a total of 6-7-9 (11-13) times = 48-52-58 (62-68) sts. Continue until piece measures 17-19-20 (25-29) cm [6¾”-7½”-8” (9¾”-11 3/8”)] – adjust so that next row is from RS.
BODY PIECE: K 1 row from RS, at the end of row cast on 41-43-50 (53-58) sts (= towards back piece) = 89-95-108 (115-126) sts.
Work return row. Insert a marker from RS in the second st on row (= right side of piece) and continue in garter st, AT THE SAME TIME inc 1 st on each side of st with marker on every other row a total of 38-40-46 (48-50) times – SEE INCREASING TIP. AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 8½-9-10½ (11-12) cm [3¼”-3½”-4¼” (4 3/8”-4¾”)] continue on the last 60-65-74 (79-86) sts only on the left side of piece as seen from the RS (= back piece). Slip remaining sts on a stitch holder.

BACK PIECE: Continue until piece measures 13-14-16 (17-18) cm [5 1/8”-5½”-6¼” (6¾”-7”)] (from where sts were cast on for back piece), and bind off.

FRONT PIECE: Slip sts from stitch holder back on needle, but leave 9-10-10 (10-12) sts towards back piece on stitch holder for neckline. Continue to inc on every other row, AT THE SAME TIME bind off 1 st towards neckline on every 4th row a total of 6-7-7 (7-7) times.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 14-15-17 (18-19) cm [5½”-6”-6¾” (7”-7½”)] (from where inc for front pieces beg) bind off for 3-4-4 (5-5) buttonholes as follows (from neckline, i.e. from WS): work 2 sts, bind off 2 sts, * work 12-9-11 (9-10) sts, bind off 2 sts *, repeat from *-* a total of 2-3-3 (4-4) times, and then work remaining sts on row. On return row cast on 2 new sts over the bind off sts.
After dec and inc are complete there are 90-93-109 (115-121) sts on row. Now bind off 51-52-62 (66-70) sts from WS from neckline and down along front band = 39-41-47 (49-51) sts left on row. Continue in garter st back and forth on these sts for approx 1-1-2 (2-3) cm [3/8”-3/8”-3/4” (3/4”-1 1/8”)] (fold piece double by shoulder to measure front piece to back piece) and bind off.

Like right half, but without buttonholes – this half is assembled with WS out.

Place the 2 halves towards each other and sew tog mid back – edge to edge in order to avoid a chunky seam. Fold jacket double and sew under arm and side seams in outer loops of sts. Sew on buttons.

Pick up 55 to 75 sts (incl sts on stitch holders) round neckline on circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Fabel. Work 3 rows garter st back and forth on needle and bind off.

Inc 1 st on each side of the 2 K sts mid back (marker sits between these 2 sts). Inc by working 2 sts in 1 st and incorporate inc sts in rib as you go along.

Dec 1 st on each side of marker mid front. Dec as follows before marker: K2 tog.
Dec as follows after marker: slip 1 st as if to K, K1, psso.

Worked in the round on double pointed needles.
Cast on 56-60-64 (68-72) sts on double pointed needles size 3 mm [US 2or3] with Alpaca. Insert a marker at beg of round = inside of leg. Continue as follows: K1, * P2 / K2 *, repeat from *-* and finish with P2 and K1. When piece measures 4 cm [1½”] inc 1 st on each side of marker by K 2 sts in 1 st on every 5-6-8 (9-12) round a total of 8 times = 72-76-80 (84-88) sts.
When leg measures 16-20-23 (25-33) cm [6¼”-8”-9” (9¾”-13”)] divide the piece by marker and continue back and forth on needle (to make it easier to slip both legs on the same circular needle afterwards), AT THE SAME TIME cast on 1 new st each side for seam = 74-78-82 (86-90) sts. When piece measures 18-22-25 (27-35) cm [7”-8¾”-9¾” (10 5/8”-13¾”)] bind off 5 sts each side (= 1 edge st, K1, P2 and K1) = 64-68-72 (76-80) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg in the same way.

Slip both legs on the same circular needle size 3 mm [US 2or3] = 128-136-144 (152-160) sts. Insert 1 marker mid front and 1 marker mid back (both markers should sit between 2 K sts). Continue in rib, K2 / P2, AT THE SAME TIME inc mid back and dec mid front as follows:
INC MID BACK: Inc 2 sts – SEE INCREASING TIP. Repeat the inc on every 4th round a total of 4 times.
DEC MID FRONT: Dec 2 sts – SEE DECREASING TIP. Repeat the dec on every 4th round a total of 8 times.
After all inc and dec are complete there are 120-128-136 (144-152) sts on round. Continue in rib until piece measures 38-42-47 (52-60) cm [15”-16½”-18½” (20½”-23 5/8”)], bind off.

Sew inside of legs at the top inside 1 edge st. Sew opening between legs, front of leg towards back of leg.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

symbols = = knitting direction

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 18-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (82)

country flag Antonia wrote:

Hola..cuando dice aumento cada 2 hileras. Se hace el aumento y despues se tejen 2 hileras mas y en la 3era hilera se realiza el nuevo aumento o no . Gracias por los patrones son hermosos.

26.08.2021 - 08:03:

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Antonia, esto significa que haces una hilera y aumentas en otra (secunda) hilera, etc. Buen trabajo!

27.08.2021 kl. 08:57:

country flag Gabi wrote:

Gibt es diese Jacke auch in Angaben für Erwachsene?

30.05.2021 - 11:46:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Gabi, es sind Alternative: Mitre z.B. mit V-Ausschnitt und als längere Jacken: Oseberg und City Explorer. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

31.05.2021 kl. 07:54:

country flag Nicole wrote:

Bonjour madame, j'essaie de tricoter ce modèle, mais je suis un peu perdue. Après avoir monté les 41 mailles (côté dos) et marquer la seconde maille, à 8.5 cm les 60 mailles à tricoter sont elles comptées après les mailles augmentées autour de la maille marquée ou doit on les tricoter à partir du début du rang ?

08.02.2021 - 12:20:

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nicole, vous allez mettre en attente les mailles du début du rang sur l'endroit (elles seront ensuite reprises pour terminer le devant du gilet) et conserver les 60 dernières mailles (toujours vu sur l'endroit) pour tricoter le dos. Bon tricot!

09.02.2021 kl. 09:22:

country flag Marion Schuhmann-Ränsch wrote:

VORDERTEIL: Die M. auf dem Hilfsfaden wieder auf die Nadel legen, jedoch 9-10-10 (10-12) M. gegen das Rückenteil für den Halsausschnitt auf dem Hilfsfaden liegen lassen. Mit den Aufnahmen bei jeder 2. R. weiterfahren – GLEICHZEITIG gegen den Hals (gegen die M. auf dem Hilfsfaden) 1 M. abk. und bei jeder 4. R. total 6-7-7 (7-7) Mal wiederholen. Am Hals eine Masche abketten, wie soll ich das machen? Zusammenstricken?

06.01.2021 - 10:06:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Frau Schuhmann-Ränsch, diese Masche wird am Anfang der Reihe vom Hals (Richtung untere Kante) abgekettet. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

06.01.2021 kl. 13:11:

country flag Marianne Acketoft wrote:

Hej,! När jag skall börja på andra ärmen så hittar jag inte rätt ställe på garnnystanet för att få samma randning på ärmen. Är det inte möjligt , på bilden ser ju randningen likadan ut på de två halvorna?

23.11.2020 - 08:29:

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Marianne. Hvert nøste er ikke helt lik. Om du strikker med en print farger er den farget med en metode som kalles “fancy dyeing” som er forskjellig fra andre metoder ettersom det i hvert fargeparti er små variasjoner i både mønster og nyanse. Dette er ikke en feil, men en del av garnets egenskaper. mvh DROPS design

24.11.2020 kl. 12:13:

country flag Ulli wrote:

Oooh, jetzt bin ich völlig verwirrt. Etwa die 5 abgek. Maschen von vorne mit den hinteren vom gleichen Bein? Zwischen den Beinen heißt doch 5 Maschen vom rechten Bein mit 5 Maschen vom linken Bein, oder? Die Strecke von den 2 cm geteilt und die 5 abgeketteten Maschen bilden ja einen rechten Winkel. Und genau dann bekomm ich die Klinke. Ich bitte um Entschuldigung, aber ich bin grad völlig abgehängt.

05.11.2020 - 14:20:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulli, Sie nähen zuerst die obersten 2 cm an jedem Bein zusammen und nähen dann die abgeketteten Maschen vom vorderen Teil an den hinteren Teil. Die Anleitung wurde inzwischen ergänzt. Gutes Gelingen nun - und Sie können gerne jederzeit wieder fragen! :-)

05.11.2020 kl. 23:17:

country flag Ulli wrote:

Hallo, in der Deutschen Anleitung fehlen die Informationen, wie die Hose zusammengenäht werden soll. Wenn ich einfach die 2 cm Seiten und die 5 abgeketteten Maschen von rechtem und linken Bein gegeneinander nähe, entsteht eine kleine Klinke. Soll das so sein, oder mach ich was falsch? Es wäre schön, wenn man die Anleitung hier ergänzen könnte.

04.11.2020 - 20:27:

DROPS Design answered:

Liebe Ulli, danke für den Hinweis, die deutsche Anleitung wird korrigiert. Die abgekettenen Maschen von vorne nähen Sie zusammen mit den abgekettetenen Maschen von Hinten (= zwischen den Beinen). Viel Spaß beim stricken!

05.11.2020 kl. 10:16:

country flag Esther Van Der Voorn wrote:

The pattern states that the Left Half is worked as the Right Half, but assembled with the wrong side out. My knitting is not reversible because I am including 4 different yarns and knitting them in stripes. Should I work the Left Half as a mirror image of the Right Half instead so that I can assemble them with both right sides out?

01.05.2020 - 04:35:

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Van Der Voorn, yes you have then probably work the left front piece as a mirrored image to get the right side and wrong side being the same on both pieces. Happy knitting!

04.05.2020 kl. 09:58:

country flag Damaris wrote:

Die Anleitung ist wirklich toll und auch die Jacke ist super! Nur braucht man ewig lange um das Teil zu stricken weils kraus rechts ist. In der gleichen Zeit könnte man die selbe Jacke zwei Mal in glatt rechts stricken, somit erfordert das Ganze etwas Ausdauer. Wenn man die aber beweist hat man dann eine super süße Jacke in Händen, die einen interessanten Aufbau hat!

09.03.2020 - 11:44:

country flag Hazel Johnston wrote:

The baby I would like to knit a garment for is average size 6 months, so I was looking for a pattern for 9 to 12 months old. I am not sure of the measurements in your pattern and therefore unsure whether to go for 6 - 9 months or 12 - 18 months. It may help to know the age the baby in the picture is wearing. Thank you

08.01.2020 - 22:20:

DROPS Design answered:

Hi Hazel, There is a sketch at the bottom of the pattern with the measurements for the different sizes. Happy knitting!

09.01.2020 kl. 07:18:

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