DROPS Baby / 18 / 2

Hazelnut by DROPS Design

Knitted bunting bag in DROPS Eskimo or DROPS Andes

Size: 1/3 - 6/9 - 12/18 months (2 – 3/4) years
Size in cm: 50/56 - 62/68 - 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS ESKIMO from Garnstudio
500-550-600 (650-750) g colour no 48, beige mix

Or use:
Materials: DROPS ANDES from Garnstudio
600-600-700 (800-900) g colour no 5310, light brown

DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE size 8 mm (80 cm) – or size needed to get 11 sts x 15 rows in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.

DROPS WOODEN BUTTONS no 511: 5-5-6 (6-6) pcs.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 1.90 £ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 1.90 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 2.20 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 2.40 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 19.00£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
GARTER ST (back and forth on needle):
K all rows.

MOSS ST:
Row 1: * K1, P1 *, repeat from *-*.
Row 2: K over P and P over K. Repeat row 2.

INCREASING TIP:
Inc by making 1 YO. Work YO into back of loop on return row to avoid a hole

BUTTONHOLES:
Make buttonholes on right front piece.
1 buttonhole = cast off 3rd st from mid front and cast on 1 new st on return row.
Cast off for buttonholes when piece measures:
SIZE 1/3 months: 1, 7, 13, 19 and 25 cm
SIZE 6/9 months: 1, 8, 15, 22 and 29 cm
SIZE 12/18 months: 1, 7, 14, 21, 28 and 35 cm
SIZE 2 years: 1, 8, 16, 24, 32 and 40 cm
SIZE 3/4 years: 1, 10, 19, 28, 37 and 46 cm

--------------------------------------------------------
HOLE FOR SEAT BELT IN CAR SEAT:
You can make a hole on front and back piece for car seat belt.
Make the first hole when back piece measures approx 16-20-23 (28-33) cm (or required measurements) by casting off the middle 4 sts on needle.
On next row cast on 4 new sts over cast off sts and continue as before.
Repeat on front piece when piece measure from shoulder 42-47-52 (58-59) cm.

--------------------------------------------------------
KNITTING TIPS: For a nice edge along hood, front edges and sleeve edges, slip 1st st on every row starting from the edge instead of knitting it.

--------------------------------------------------------

BUNTING BAG:
Worked in one piece, beg at the bottom of back piece, cast on for sleeves, cast off for neck and finish at the bottom of front piece. To fit in all sts work piece back and forth on circular needle.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 36-40-44 (46-50) sts (includes 1 edge st each side) on needle size 8 mm with Eskimo. Work 6 rows garter st – SEE ABOVE! Continue in stocking st until piece measures 37-45-52 (62-67) cm – AT THE SAME TIME dec 4 sts evenly on the last row = 32-36-40 (42-46) sts.
REMEMBER THE KNITTING GAUGE!
Work 6 rows garter st on all sts and now continue in moss st – SEE ABOVE. When piece measures 46-54-61 (71-76) cm cast on new sts each side for sleeves at the end of every row: 4 sts 1 time, 5 sts 1-1-1 (2-2) times and 9-10-12 (12-16) sts 1 time = 68-74-82 (94-106) sts. Incorporate inc sts in moss st as you go along.
NOTE! After the last inc work 3 sts each side (= sleeve edges) in garter st.
When piece measures 54-63-71 (82-88) cm continue as follows: 3 garter sts, 19-22-25 (31-37) moss st, 24-24-26 (26-26) garter sts (= mid back), 19-22-25 (31-37) moss sts, 3 garter sts. After 6 rows garter st mid back cast off the middle 12-12-14 (14-14) sts for neck and complete each side separately. Slip sts on the right side on a stitch holder.

LEFT FRONT PIECE: = 28-31-34 (40-46) sts. Continue in moss st with 6 garter sts towards neckline and 3 garter sts towards sleeve edge. When piece measures 58-67-75 (86-92) cm insert a marker = mid shoulder – NOW MEASURE PIECE FROM HERE!
Continue as before.
When piece measures 1-1-2 (2-2) cm inc 1 st towards neckline inside 6 garter sts on next row from RS – SEE INCREASING TIP. Work return row and repeat the inc on next row from RS. Work return row and now cast on 7-7-8 (8-8) new sts at the end of row towards mid front = 37-40-44 (50-56) sts. Work 2 rows garter st on the 6-7-8 (8-8) new sts, work remaining sts as before. Continue in moss st with 6 garter sts towards mid front (= front band) and 3 garter sts at sleeve edge as before.
When piece measures 9-10-11 (11-12) cm cast off sleeve sts at the side at beg of row as follows: 9-10-12 (12-16) sts 1 time, 5 sts 1-1-1 (2-2) times and 4 sts 1 time = 19-21-23 (24-26) sts.
Continue in moss sts with 6 garter sts on front band until piece measures approx 18-19-20 (21-22) cm (fold piece by marker on shoulder to make sure there is an equal amount of moss st rows on front and back piece). Work 6 rows garter st on all sts and continue in stocking st with 6 garter sts on front band. AT THE SAME TIME on first row inc 2 sts evenly (do not inc on front band) = 21-23-25 (26-28) sts. When piece measures approx 35-41-46 (52-56) cm slip sts on a stitch holder – adjust so that next row is from RS.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE: Slip sts from stitch holder on shoulder back on needle = 28-31-34 (40-46) sts, and work like left front piece, but mirrored. AT THE SAME TIME cast off for buttonholes on front band – SEE ABOVE.
When piece measures 35-41-46 (52-56) cm – adjust to left front piece – slip sts from left front piece in on the same needle = 42-46-50 (52-56) sts. On next row (= RS) work front band sts tog as follows: Work stocking st on the first 15-17-19 (20-22) sts, slip 6 front band sts from right front piece on cable needle in front of piece, * work tog 1 st from cable needle and 1 st from left front band *, repeat from *-* 6 times = 6 dec sts. Work remaining sts on row in stocking st = 36-40-44 (46-50) sts. Continue in stocking st on all sts. When piece measures approx 55-64-72 (83-89) cm (fold piece double by marker on shoulder to measure front piece to back piece) work 6 rows garter st on all sts and cast off loosely.

ASSEMBLY: Fold piece double by shoulder and sew under arm and side seams inside 1 edge st. Sew cast on row to cast off row at bottom of bag, sew in outer loops of sts to avoid a chunky seam.

HOOD: Pick up 37-39-41 (45-47) sts on needle size 8 mm round neckline from RS (beg mid front). Work moss back and forth on needle. When hood measures 18-20-22 (24-26) cm work 2 rows garter st on all sts and cast off loosely.
Sew hood tog at the top. Sew on buttons.

Diagram


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 18-2) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

to top

3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

to top

4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

to top

5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

to top

6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

to top

7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

to top

8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

to top

9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

to top

10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

to top

12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

to top

13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

to top

14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

to top

15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

to top

16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

to top

17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

to top

18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

to top

19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

to top

20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

to top

21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

to top

22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

to top

23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

to top

Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (86)

Hjørdis 13.06.2019 - 15:04:

Hej ☀️ Når opskriften siger “slå X-40-X-X masker op (inkl. 1 kantmaske i hver side)”, skal det så forstås som, at man, når man har slået 40 masker op, så er 2 af de 40 masker kantmasker. Eller er det sådan, at man skal slå 42 masker op, fordi de 2 kantmasker er UD OVER de 40? På forhånd mange tak for svar :-) Mange hilsner

DROPS Design 17.06.2019 kl. 12:10:

Hej. Du lägger upp 40 maskor totalt (2 av de 40 är då alltså kantmaskor). Lycka till!

Alexandra Popescu 31.05.2019 - 11:38:

Hello, Could you please Tell me how much yarn I need to knit a jumpsuit with hood for a 2 year old, so size 86/92. After knitting I want to Felt it and I don’t know how much it will shrink. Thank you.

DROPS Design 31.05.2019 kl. 11:52:

Dear Mrs Popescu, we are unfortunately not able to adapt every single pattern to each individual request. For any individual help, please contact your store, even per mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Miljana 01.04.2019 - 13:34:

Hej, jeg har kørt fast i min opskrift.. jeg er på venstre side og skal slå 7 nye m opbmod midt foran. Gørs dette inden de 6 m retstrik ved halsen? Eller efter de 6 m? Og senere står det at man skal strikke retstrik over de 7 nye masker også, for at återgå til 6 retstrik masker midt foran. (Så 7+6 m retstrik i 2 pinde og bagefter tilbage til 6 m retstrik..?) kommer det ikke til at se mærkeligt ud?

Vt 30.04.2018 - 15:31:

Hei. Jeg holder på med venstre side, og har akkurat økt med 1m. Har brukt øketipset deres ved å øke med kast men hvordan strikkes denne vridd? Har dere en video på det? Hilsen en nybegynner :)

DROPS Design 15.05.2018 kl. 14:56:

Hei Vt. Når du strikker kastet vridd strikker du i den bakerste maskebuen – dette gjøres for at det ikke skal bli hull i arbeidet. Her er en video av fremegangsmåte. God fornøyelse

Vt 30.04.2018 - 14:31:

Hei. Jeg holder på med venstre side, og har akkurat økt med 1m. Har brukt øketipset deres ved å øke med kast men hvordan strikkes denne vridd? Har dere en video på det? Hilsen en nybegynner :)

Anna 07.03.2018 - 11:10:

I would like to knit just the upper part of the pattern to have a sweater. Is it possible? Where should I begin?

DROPS Design 07.03.2018 kl. 13:01:

Dear Anna, we are unfortunately not able to adapt each our pattern to every single request. Please contact the store where you bought your yarn for any individual assistance. Happy knitting!

Søs Jørgensen 21.11.2017 - 12:48:

Hej er ved at strikke kørepose med perlestrik og synes det har været rimeligt nem, men nu er der lige et spørgsmål ang venstre side, jeg skal slå 7 masker op mod midt foran, er det rigtigt forstået af mig, hvis jeg slår dem op ind til halsen og derefter strikker retstrik over de nye masker + de to der er taget ud og de seks der var der i forvejen? Håber mit spørsmål er til at forstå. Vh Søs Jørgensne

DROPS Design 05.12.2017 kl. 15:01:

Hej Søs, ja det stemmer, de 7 nye masker er dem som danner forkanten på forstykket og 6 af dem strikkes i retstrik mod midt foran. God fornøjelse!

Miriam 08.08.2017 - 23:13:

Hei! Jeg forstår ikke hvor jeg skal øke de 7 maskene på venstre sidestykke. Står i slutten av pinnen. Med de 3 erme maskene?

DROPS Design 09.08.2017 kl. 10:40:

Hei Miriam. I 7 nye maskene skal legges opp på slutten av pinnen mot midt foran (de nye maskene er stolpen mot midt foran). Deretter fortsettes det med perlestrikk med 6 m rille mot midt foran (= stolpe). De 3 erm maskene er på motsatt side. God Fornøyelse!

Ralo 07.08.2017 - 20:11:

Hvor skal jeg begynne å ta opp masker til hetta,og hvor skal jeg avslutte?ISkal jeg begynne i starten av rillestrikket og avslutte før rillestrikket i andre enden?

DROPS Design 08.08.2017 kl. 14:04:

Hei Ralo. Du starter midt foran med å strikke opp masker i ytterste ledd av ytterste maske fra retten, og su strikker opp masker rundt hele halsen. God Fornøyelse!

Rannveig Løland 07.08.2017 - 20:06:

Hvor skal jeg starte og hvor skal jeg avslutte med å ta opp masker til hetten?Skal jeg starte i begynnelsen av rillestrikket og avslutte før rillestrikket?

DROPS Design 15.08.2017 kl. 09:31:

Hei Rannveig. Du starter i begynnelsen av rillen (midt foran) og avslutter i siste maske i rillestrikk på andre siden. God Fornøyelse!

Post a comment to pattern DROPS Baby 18-2

We would love to hear what you have to say about this pattern!

If you want to leave a question, please make sure you select the correct category in the form below, to speed up the answering process. Required fields are marked *.