DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.25$. Read more.
DROPS 108-5
Measurement (shawl):
Width at top: approx 155 cm [61”].
Length mid back: approx 40 cm [15 ¾”].
Size (hat): One size

Materials: DROPS Kid-Silk from Garnstudio
100 g color no 04, mid rose
50 g color no 05, heather
25 g color no 03, light rose

DROPS pointed needles size 5 mm [US 8] (for shawl and hat) – or size needed to obtain 16 sts x 32 rows in garter st with 2 threads = 10 x 10 cm [4’’ x 4’’].

DROPS pointed needles size 3 mm
[US 2or3] (for hat) – or size needed to obtain 20 sts stockinette st with 2 threads = width 10 cm [4”].

DROPS crochet hook size 4 mm [G/6] (for flowers).


Knitting tension – See how to measure it and why here
Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here


DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 6.75 $ /25g
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 47.25$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.

Increasing tip: Inc 1 st by making 1 YO inside 1 edge st. On return row K YO into back of loop.

Decreasing tip: Dec 1 st by K 2 tog.

Cast on 3 sts with 2 threads mid rose on needle size 5 mm [US 8]. Work garter st –at the same time inc 1 st at one side inside 1 edge st – see Increasing tip – on every 4th row a total of 61 times = 64 sts. Remember the knitting gauge!
Now work 4 rows garter st on all sts. Piece measures approx 78 cm [30¾”]. Continue in garter st and now dec 1 st at the same side as inc, inside 1 edge st on every 4th row a total of 61 times – see Decreasing tip = 3 sts.
Bind off. Shawl measures approx 155 cm [61”].

Crochet flowers: Work 4 ch with 2 threads on crochet hook size 4 mm [G/6] and form a ring with 1 sl st in the first ch.
Round 1: 6 sc i ring, finish with 1 sl st in first sc.
Round 2: * 3 ch, 1 sc in next sc *, repeat from *-* = 6 ch-loops.
Round 3: 1 ch, crochet as follows in each ch-loop: 1 sc, 5 dc and 1 sc, finish with 1 sl st in first ch.
Make 6 light rose flowers, 6 mid rose flowers and 4 heather flowers = 16 flowers.
Fold shawl double towards RS - see fig.1. Attach 1 flower of each color in both ends and distribute the remaining 10 flowers with 5 at the point in the middle and 5 in the middle of the folded part (only sew through the upper layer).

Worked back and forth on needle. Cast on 100 sts with 2 threads heather on needle size 3 mm [US 2or3].
Work 2 cm [3/4”] stockinette st, P 1 row (as seen from RS, = folding edge), 2 cm [3/4”] stockinette st. Now measure piece from here!
Change to needle size 5 mm [US 8] and work 2 rows garter st. Insert 10 Marking Threads (MT) in piece from RS as follows:
First MT after 1 st, and the remaining 9 MT with 10 sts between each, after the last MT = 9 sts. On next row from RS inc 1 st after each MT – see Increasing tip. Repeat the inc on every 4th row another 3 times = 140 sts. When piece measures 7 cm [2 ¾”] dec 1 st after each MT – see Decreasing tip – on every 4th row a total of 12 times = 20 sts left on row. Now work all sts tog 2 by 2, cut the thread and pull through remaining sts.

Assembly: Fold bottom edge double towards WS and fasten with neat sts – make sure seam is not too tight. Sew tog hat mid back in the outer loops to avoid a chunky seam.
The hat measures approx 22 cm [8 ¾”].
Crochet 1 light rose, 1 mid rose and 2 heather flowers as described above and sew them to hat.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

diagram measurements
Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (36)

country flag Nadette19 wrote:

Si je comprends bien les fleurs de la partie supérieure sont cousues sur l'envers et tout près de bord pour être sur l'endroit quand le châle est porté. Faut-il coudre pour maintenir ce revers ? D'avance merci

20.03.2019 - 19:46

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Nadette19, les fleurs peuvent effectivement être cousues sur l'envers, quand vous porterez le châle, repliez simplement la partie du haut (comme un revers/col roulé) pour que les fleurs soient visibles sur l'endroit. Bon tricot!

21.03.2019 - 10:04

country flag Hanne Jessen wrote:

Når der i opskriften bare står "pinde", hvad længde/type pinde tænkes der da på?

25.02.2017 - 12:31

DROPS Design answered:

Hej Hanne. Det er bare lige pinde - altsaa ikke strömpepinde eller rundpinde :)

27.02.2017 - 15:00

country flag Isabelle wrote:

Bonjour je ne comprend pas les augmentations du beret comment fait on les augmentations suivantes combien de mailles entre chaque augmentations tous les 4rangs merci

15.10.2015 - 07:36

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Isabelle, on augmente 1 m après chaque marqueur, là où vous aviez 10 m entre chaque marqueur, vous en avez 11 après la 1ère augmentation, vous en aurez 12 après la 2ème augmentation etc. Gardez bien vos marqueurs en place et augmentez après chaque marqueur. Bon tricot!

15.10.2015 - 09:09

Sheila wrote:

Hola no entendi el chal en el diagrama es como si tuviese frente y espalda se hace dos partes iguales? despues se cosen? Gracias por responder quiero hacer para un regalo

18.07.2015 - 02:28

DROPS Design answered:

Hola Sheila, se trabaja de lado a lado en una sola pieza. Primero se aumenta hasta el centro del chal y después se disminuye para terminar con el mismo nº de pts con el que se empezó. Las estrellas del diagrama indican donde se colocan las flores de ganchillo.

22.07.2015 - 10:06

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buonasera,il filato usato e'quello giusto,solo che sbagliavo perché' ho lavorato a m. Rasata e non a legaccio.Grazie

27.10.2013 - 22:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Benedetta, il campione l'ha lavorato a m legaccio? provi con mezza misura di ferri in più e veda come viene. Buon lavoro!

28.10.2013 - 00:03

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buongiorno,mi spiego meglio,e' la lunghezza del basco che e'32 cm invece di 22cm .Dal mio campione ottengo circa 16 m x24 ferri e non 32 ferri come descritto .Il campione che voi date e' a m.legaccio e non a m.rasata.grazie mille.

27.10.2013 - 17:42

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Benedetta, è strano, perché il suo campione risulta più piccolo di quello indicato, e quindi il suo basco dovrebbe risultare più corto, non più lungo. Il campione è a m legaccio e anche il basco lo è, tranne la prima parte lavorata con i f n° 3 mm a m rasata. E' sicura di aver seguito attentamente le istruzioni? Buon lavoro!

27.10.2013 - 18:01

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Buonasera,mi correggo ,il basco non è' largo ma lungo cm 32 e non 22 cm. come da spiegazione.Quindi e' piu'lungo di 10 cm.forse devo usare ism numero di ferri inferiore.grazie

27.10.2013 - 17:08

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Benedetta, sta usando il filato indicato?

27.10.2013 - 17:58

country flag Benedetta wrote:

Ho realizzato questo basco,ma alla fine ,dal bordo alla chiusura delle maglie,il lavoro misura 32 cm e non 22. Mi potete spiegare cosa devo fare.grazie e buona giornata

26.10.2013 - 11:49

DROPS Design answered:

Buongiorno Benedetta, il campione corrisponde a quello indicato? E le altre misure? Se il campione non corrisponde, provi a rifarlo cercando di avvicinarsi più possibile a quello indicato, altrimenti può attaccare un elastico basso sul bordo del basco per stringere un pò il bordo. Buon lavoro!

27.10.2013 - 15:53

country flag Diana wrote:

I don't understand how to get knitting tension 16 sts x 32 rows in garter st with 5 mm needles. I got 16 sts in 10 cm, but only aprox. 22 rows. If I'm knitting very tight then it's very hardto knitt, and if I change to 4,5 mm needles, then I get 18 sts in 10 cm. Anny advice?

19.10.2013 - 12:00

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Diana, for the shawl, you can keep the right tension in width, and follow pattern, adjusting on measurements in height. Happy knitting!

21.10.2013 - 10:44

country flag Valentina wrote:

It is very beautiful, But I would like to make this for my daughter, 5y.o. any advise...

12.03.2013 - 11:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Valentina, there are some cute hats written for kids such as s12-2 or 0-905. Do not hesitate to use the search engine in home page. Happy knitting!

12.03.2013 - 13:51