DROPS Baby / 14 / 25

Cozy Cuddle by DROPS Design

Crochet set of striped jacket and slippers in DROPS Eskimo. Sizes baby and children from 1 month to 4 years.

1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 –3/4 years)

Width at chest: 20½-22¾-26¾ (28 3/8-30¾) inches
Full length: 11¾-13-14¼ (15¾-17¾) inches

DROPS Eskimo from Garnstudio

3-4-4 (5-5) balls #01, off-white
1-1-1 (2-2) balls #31, light mint
1-1-1 (2-2) balls #37, mint-mix
1 ball for all sizes of following colors: #13 camel, #23 dark beige, #30 baby pink, #36 rose-mix.

Size M/13/9 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

DROPS wooden button no 512: 4-4-4 (5-5) pcs

2-2-2 (2-2) balls #01, off-white

Size K/10½/7 mm crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge.

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 2.85 $ /50g
DROPS Eskimo uni colour DROPS Eskimo uni colour 2.85 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo mix DROPS Eskimo mix 3.30 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Eskimo print DROPS Eskimo print 3.60 $ /50g
Purple Sheep Yarns
DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 31.35$. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in American English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from inches to cm - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in American and British English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in British English, please click here.

Width of 4 dc-groups and 4 rows in height = 4 x 4 inches

See rows below - or chart 1 for right size.
Each row = 1 row of dc’s.
1/3+6/9 months: work row 2-13 below.
12/18 months: work row 1-13 below.
2 years: work row 2-17 below.
3/4 years: work row 1-17 below.
1st row: off white
2nd row: off white
3rd row: camel
4th row: light mint
5th row: mint-mix
6th row: rose-mix
7th row: baby pink
8th row: off white
9th row: camel
10th row: dark beige
11th row: mint-mix
12th row: light mint
13th row: off white
14th row: baby pink
15th row: rose-mix
16th row: camel
17th row: off white

At the beginning of each row of dc’s replace the 1st dc with 3 ch, and finish each row with 1 dc in 3rd ch from beginning of previous row.

1 dc-group = 2 dc in same st. ½ dc-group = 3 ch (equals 1 dc)

Read Crochet info 1.
With Eskimo #01, ch 31-34-40 (43-46).
Crochet stripes as described above as follows:
1st row: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook, *skip 2 ch, 2 dc in next ch*, repeat from *-* = 10-11-13 (14-15) dc-groups on row, turn the piece.
2nd row: 3 ch (= 1 dc), 2 dc between the first 2 dc-groups from previous row (crochet at top of st and not round the whole st), *2 dc between the next 2 dc-groups*, repeat from *-* and finish with 2 dc at the top of the last dc = 1 dc (3 ch) + 10-11-13 (14-15) dc-groups on row – read Crochet info 2. Repeat 2nd row.

When piece measures approx 8”-9”-9” (10 5/8”-11¾”) cast on new sts for sleeves each side as follows: Cut the yarn. Ch 16-19-19 (25-28), crochet as before over back piece, at the end of row ch 16-19-19 (25-28). Turn the piece and crochet as explained for 1st row so that the pattern continues as before = 1 dc (3 ch) + 20-23-25 (30-33) dc-groups on row.
When piece measures 11¾”-13”-14¼” (15¾”-17¾”) fasten off.

With Eskimo #01, ch 16-16-19 (22-22).
Crochet following explanation for stripes above and dc-groups as described for back piece = 1 dc (3 ch) +5-5-6 (7-7) dc-groups after 2nd row. When piece measures approx 8”-9”-9” (10 5/8”-11¾”) cast on new sts for sleeve at side as described for back piece. Continue pattern as before = 1 dc (3 ch) + 10-11-12 (15-16) dc-groups on row. When piece measures 11¾”-13”-14¼” (15¾”-17¾”) fasten off.

Crochet as left front piece, but mirrored.

With Eskimo #01 crochet 2 rows of dc along sleeve edge = approx 1 dc (3 ch) + 8-8-10 (10-11) dc on row.

With Eskimo #01 crochet 1 row of dc-groups along the front edge of both front pieces = approx 12-13-14 (16-18) dc-groups.

Sew shoulder/sleeve seams – start at sleeve edge and work towards neckline – leave 5-5 dc-groups mid back for neck opening. Sew underarm and side seams.

With Eskimo #01 crochet 1 sc in 1st st, ch 3, then approx 13-14-15 (16-17) dc-groups around neckline as described on 1sr row for jacket. Continue with dc-groups until hood measures approx 8¾”-9½”-10¼” (11½”-11¾”), fasten off. Fold hood double and sew top seam with neat sts.

Sew on buttons on left front piece – the top one approx ½”-3/4” from neckline and the bottom one approx 4”-4¾” from lower edge.


To fit foot length: 4-4½-4¾ (5½-6) inches

Width of 10 sc and 11 rows in height = 4 x 4 inches.

At the beginning of each row of sc’s replace the 1st sc with 1 ch, and finish each row with 1 sc in ch from beginning of previous row.

Crochet the bootie in one piece and sew seams mid front and mid back.
With Eskimo #01, ch 7-8-9 (10-11). Crochet back and forth with sc - read Crochet Info – start in 2nd ch from hook. = 7-8-9 (10-11) sc on row. When piece measures 2¾”-3 1/8”-3½” (4”-4”) inc at one side for foot by ch 3-3-3 (4-4), turn and continue with sc in all sts = 10-11-12 (14-15) sc. When piece measures 6”-7”-8¼” (9½”-10¼”) bind off the 3-3-3 (4-4) foot sts by turning the piece just before these sts. Continue with sc over the remaining 7-8-9 (10-11) sc until piece measures 8¾”-10¼”-11¾” (13 3/8”-14¼”). Fasten off

Fold bootie double and sew seam mid back and mid front with neat sts – leave an opening of approx 2”-2½”-2¾” (3”-3 1/8”) at the top mid front.
Crochet the other bootie.

Make 2 small pompons with a diameter of approx 1 inch and attach to top of each bootie.


See pattern b14-21

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 27.10.2010
When piece measures approx 8”-9”-9” (10 5/8”-11¾”) cast on new sts for sleeves each side as follows: Cut the yarn. Ch 16-19-19 (25-28), crochet as before over back piece, at the end of row ch 16-19-19 (25-28). Turn the piece and crochet as explained for 1st row so that the pattern continues as before = 1 dc (3 ch) + 20-23-25 (30-33) dc-groups on row.


All measurements in charts are in cm.

= off-white
= camel
= light mint
= mint mix
= rose mix
= baby pink
= dark beige

Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 14-25) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (89)

Sofia 01.03.2020 - 18:35:

Found the pattern to this model, nr 14/25 Cozy Cuddle, on this web page: crochetdesignsfree1.blogspot.com/2016/02/shelter-in-crochet-for-children-step-by.html?m=1 Stolen pattern or Ok?

Cynthia Pearson 19.12.2019 - 21:07:

The sleeve addition was confusing. I did figure it out. Took an hour of trial and error. Then saw someone else was also confused. Let me try to explain. Cut yarn (to establish and cast on new color). Yes, the arms will be INCORPORATED across the back of that sweater. Simply chain 16-19 stitches then continue with the pattern ACROSS the back. At the end of the back row, chain 16-28 (sleeve) turn and continue pattern to noted length. Hopefully this helps. Love the pattern.

Sabrina 12.10.2019 - 10:17:

Buongiorno, stavo preparando un campione per fare la taglia 104, ma mi sembra che dopo l'aumento per le maniche non possa risultare un totale di 33 gruppi. Sul dietro. A me risultando 15 gruppi per il corpo e 10 per ciascuna manica sopra le 28 catenelle. Forse all'avvio bisogna avviare 25 catenelle e 28 solo a fine riga? Ho sbagliato io o c'è un errore nella descrizione? Grazie

Vanessa 13.06.2019 - 21:43:

Hello! Do you have a pattern for this in an adult size? I would love to make it for myself!

DROPS Design 14.06.2019 kl. 07:23:

Dear Vanessa, you will find <here all our crochet jackets - you can add more filters, for example patterns worked with yarn group E (as this pattern). Happy crocheting!

Laura 26.04.2019 - 20:55:

Hola, me podes explicar que quiere decir por ejemplo, montar 31-34-40 (43-46) cadenas?

DROPS Design 28.04.2019 kl. 20:53:

Hola Laura. En todos los patrones de Drops tienes las explicaciones para varias tallas. Cuando solo hay 1 número en el patrón, significa que es igual para todas las tallas. Cuando hay varios números, como en este caso: 31-34-40 (43-46) cadenas, significa que el primer número es para la tallas 1/3 meses, el 2º para la talla 6/9 y etc.

Devarenne 08.12.2018 - 22:43:

Bonjour, Si je souhaite exécuter la taille 12/18 mois d'un seul coloris (veste), dois je employer 300 ou 350g de laine ? Merci pour votre réponse.

DROPS Design 10.12.2018 kl. 00:32:

Bonjour! Je vous conseillerais de prendre plutot 350g. Bon travail!

Esther 26.08.2018 - 20:26:

Ik snap het stukje bij de armen niet, als ik 19 lossen haak en dan het rugpand en dan weer 19 lossen haak dan is volgens mij een kant langer dan de andere, omdat ik aan een kant 3 keerlossen gebruik wat doe ik verkeerd?

DROPS Design 29.08.2018 kl. 12:12:

Dag Esther, Als je de draad hebt afgeknipt en 19 lossen haakt voor de mouw, kun je gelijk met stokjes (ipv 3 keerlossen) beginnen bij het achterpand. Op die manier heb je aan beide kanten 10 lossen voor de mouw.

Irina 02.07.2018 - 18:10:

Hello, I'm lost. Do you have to start a new piece as stated here "When piece measures approx 20-23-23 (27-30) cm inc for sleeves each side as follows: Cut the yarn. Crochet 16-19-19 (25-28) ch, crochet as before over the back piece, at the end of row crochet 16-19-19 (25-28) ch…" Would you have a video on this jacket? Please advise

DROPS Design 03.07.2018 kl. 08:23:

Dear Irina, to make sleeves you will now cut the yarn, then crochet 16-28 chains for first sleeve, crochet over sts on back piece as before and crochet 16-28 chains for 2nd sleeve at the end of same row. Now turn and crochet as before over all sts: over chains at the beg and end of row (= sleeves) and over back piece as before. Happy crocheting!

Fremer De Jager 12.04.2018 - 22:55:

Ik ben toe aan het meerderen voor de mouwen van het rugpand. Wat wordt er bedoeld met: haak over het rugpand zoals eerst? En als ik 16 lossen haak, het dan aan het rugpand vastmaak en dan weer 16 lossen en het werk keer en verder ga als toer 1, dan wordt volgens mij de ene mouw langer dan de andere omdat je bij de eerste mouw 3 lossen gebruikt voor het eerste stokje en bij de andere heb je dat niet.

Marcela Morfin 30.03.2018 - 03:33:

Lo siento, había escrito un mail hacia ustedes para solicitar el patrón. Ya lo tengo muchas gracias. El problema fué que el sistema me cambió las palabras que quise decir y decía algo sin sentido. Les agradezco mucho su atención.

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