DROPS Baby / 13 / 5

Winter Snuggles by DROPS Design

Jacket, trousers, hat, mittens, socks and blanket in Alpaca

Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)
Size in cm: 50/56 – 62/68 – 74/80 (86/92 – 98/104)

Materials: DROPS Alpaca from Garnstudio
The whole set:
250-300-350 (400-450) g colour no 0100, off-white
100-100-100 (100-150) g colour no 0618, beige-mix
DROPS wooden button, no 503, 8-8-8 (9-9) pcs

or:
Jacket:
100-150-150 (150-200) g colour no 0100, off-white
50-50-100 (100-100) g colour no 0618, beige-mix
DROPS wooden button, no 503, 6-6-6 (7-7) pcs
Trousers:
150-150-150 (200-200) g colour no 0100, off-white
50-50-50 (50-50) g colour no 0618, beige-mix
DROPS wooden button, no 503, 2 pcs
Hat:
50-50-50 (100-100) g colour no 0100, off-white
+ a remnant of no 0618, beige-mix
Socks and mittens:
50-50-100 (100-100) g colour no 0618, beige-mix
+ a remnant of no 0100, off-white

DROPS circular needle and double pointed needle size 2.5mm (for Rib) and 3mm

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Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Alpaca
from 3.20 £ /50g
DROPS Alpaca uni colour DROPS Alpaca uni colour 3.20 £ /50g
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DROPS Alpaca mix DROPS Alpaca mix 3.30 £ /50g
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 22.40£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
Knitting tension, all garments: 24 sts x 32 rows on needles size3mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.

JACKET:
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Garter sts (back and forth on needle): Knit all rows

Pattern: See diagrams M.1 to M.4. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side.

Front and back piece: Knit the jacket back and forth on circular needle from mid front. Cast on 144-160-172 (200-212) sts (incl 1 edge st towards mid front each side, knitted in garter sts throughout) with Alpaca on circular needle size 2.5mm. Knit 1 row from the wrong side and continue in Rib with 1 edge st and 2 further sts in garter sts towards mid front (seen from the right side). When Rib measures 3-4-4 (5-5) cm, change to circular needle size 3mm. Knit 1 row from the right side, at the same time adjusting number of sts evenly to 123-135-147 (171-183). Now purl 1 row from wrong side and knit 1 row from right side. Insert a marking thread 31-34-37 (43-46) sts in from each side = 61-67-73 (85-91) sts between marking threads on back piece – let the marking threads follow the piece as you progress. Knit M.1 with 1 edge st each side and knit next row as follows: 1 edge st, M.2A over the next 108-120-132 (156-168) sts, M.2B (= 13 sts), 1 edge st. Continue like this.
Read all of the following section before knitting it!
When piece measures approx 15-17-21 (25-28) cm – adjust after 2 rows with off-white after 1 row with pattern - continue in M.3 in the same way, i.e. 1 edge st, M.3A over the next 108-120-132 (156-168) sts, M.3B (= 13 sts) and 1 edge st. At the same time, when piece measures 17-18-21 (24-26) cm split the piece for armholes by both marking threads and finish back and front pieces separately.

Back piece: = 61-67-73 (85-91) sts. Cast on 1 new st each side (= edge st for seam) = 63-69-75 (87-93) sts. Continue in M.3 with 1 edge st each side. When piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm cast off the middle 21-23-25 (25-27) sts for neck. Dec 2 sts on neckline on next row = 19-21-23 (29-31) sts left on shoulder. Cast off remaining sts after M.3, piece measures approx 28-30-34 (38-41) cm. NB! If piece is shorter continue in off-white until finished measurements.

Left front piece: = 31-34-37 (43-46) sts. Cast on 1 new st towards armhole (= edge st for seam) = 32-35-38 (44-47) sts. Continue in M.3 with 1 edge st each side. At the same time, when piece measures 24-26-29 (33-35) cm put the 7-8-9 (9-9) sts towards mid front on thread for neck. Now dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 2 sts 2 times and 1 st 2-2-2 (2-3) times = 19-21-23 (29-31) sts left on shoulder. Cast off when piece measures the same as back piece.

Right front piece: Knit as left front, but mirrored.

Sleeve : Read all of this section before knitting it!
Cast on 48-53-56 (60-64) sts with off-white Alpaca on double pointed needles size 2.5mm and knit 1 round. Continue in Rib. When piece measures 5 cm, insert a marking thread – measure piece from here, continue in Rib for 5 more cm (= rib measures 10 cm from cast on edge)- and change to needle size 3mm. Knit 1 round whilst adjusting number of sts to 40-42-44(46-48). Purl 1 round, knit 1 round and continue in M.1 – adjust the middle, see arrow in diagram. After M.1 continue in M.2 (adjust middle after arrow) until piece measures 16-17-19 (23-27) cm. Now knit M.4. At the same time when piece measures 7 cm inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 7-8-9 (11-12) times:
Size 1/3 + 6/9 + 12/18 months + 2 years: on every 5th round
Size 3/4 years: on every 6th round
= 54-58-62 (58-72) sts – incorporate new sts in pattern as you go along. After M.4 cast off loosely, piece measures approx 19-20-22 (26-30) cm from marking thread. NB! If piece is shorter continue in off-white until finished measurements.

Assembly: Sew shoulder seams.

Front edge: Pick up 74-78-86 (94-102) sts along left front piece with off-white and needle size 2.5mm. Knit 1 row from wrong side and 1 row from right side. Continue in Rib with 2 sts in garter sts and 2 knitted sts each side (seen from the right side). When Rib measures 2.5 cm cast off in rib. Repeat along right front piece but when Rib measures approx 1 cm, make 5-5-5 (6-6) buttonholes evenly distributed – the lower one approx 1 cm from lower edge and the top one approx 4-6 cm from neckline (the last buttonhole will be on the neckline). 1 buttonhole: cast off 2 purled sts from the right side and cast on 2 new sts on next row.

Neckline: Pick up approx 86 to 110 sts, incl sts on threads on front pieces (number of sts should be dividable by 4 + 2) round neck and front edges with off-white Alpaca and needle size 2.5mm. Knit 1 row from wrong side and 1 row from right side and continue in Rib with 2 sts in garter sts and 2 knitted sts each side (seen from the right side). When rib measures 1 cm make a buttonhole over the others on right front edge (knit tog 3rd and 4th st from edge and make a yo). When rib measures 3-4-4 (5-5) cm make another buttonhole and when neckline measures 4-5-5 (6-6) cm cast off in rib. Fold neckline double towards the wrong side and attach with neat sts on wrong side.
Sew in sleeves and sew on buttons. Fold the rib on sleeves towards the right side.
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TROUSERS:
Rib: *K2, P2*, repeat from *-*.

Pattern: see diagrams M.1 and M.2. The whole pattern is knitted in stocking sts.

Buttonhole: Make 2 buttonholes at front with approx 8-9-10 (11-12) cm between each. 1 buttonhole: cast off 2 purled sts from right and cast on 2 new sts on next row.

Decreasing tips (applies to inner side of leg):
Dec as follows 1 st before the marking thread: K2 tog
Decrease as follows 1 st after the marking thread: slip 1 st as if to knit, K1, psso.

Start at the top and knit downwards.
Cast on 160-168-176 (184-192) sts with off-white and circular needle size 2.5mm. Purl 1 round (round starts and finishes mid back). Continue in Rib. When Rib measures 2 cm, make 2 buttonholes at front – see above. When piece measures 4 cm insert a marking thread mid front (= folding edge) and measure piece from here from now on. When piece measures 2 cm, make 2 buttonholes as before (they have to fit over the first 2 when folding the edge double). When Rib measures 4 cm change to needle size 3mm. Knit 1 round, at the same time dec evenly to 114-120-126 (132-138) sts. Purl 1 round and knit 1 round.

Elevation at the back: Knit M.2A, at the same time knitting elevation at the back as follows: knit 9-10-10 (11-11) sts from beginning of round, turn the piece (to avoid a hole slip the first st as if to knit and tighten thread when knitting back), knit 18-20-20 (22-22) sts, turn the piece. Continue like this by knitting 9-10-10 (11-11) sts more before each turn another 10 times (= 12 rows). Now knit M.2A round over all sts.

Increases: When piece measures 13-16-17 (18-19) cm (measured from marking thread mid front) insert a new marking thread at beginning of round and after 57-60-63 (66-69) sts. Inc 1 st on each side of these marking threads (= 4 inc per round) on every 3rd round a total of 6 times = 138-144-150 (156-162) sts. After the last inc the piece measures approx 18-21-22 (23-24) cm mid front.

Legs: Knit 69-72-75 (78-81) sts from mid back (= leg) and put remaining sts on a thread. Knit round and continue M.2A as before. Insert a new marking thread at beginning of round (= inner side of leg). Dec 1 st on each side of marking thread - see decreasing tips – a total of 13-12-11 (11-11) times:
Size 1/3 months: on every 3rd round
Size 6/9 months: on every 4th round
Size 12/18 months: on every 5th round:
Size 2 years: on every 7th round
Size 3/4 years: on every 8th and 9th alternately
= 43-48-53 (56-59) sts.
When piece measures approx 30-36-40 (46-52) cm – adjust after 2 rounds of off-white after a round of pattern – knit M/1 - start at the top of diagram and see arrow which marks the middle of round (= outer side of leg). After M.1 change to off-white and needle size 2.5mm. Knit 1 round, at the same time adjusting number of sts to 68-72-76 (80-84). Knit 10 cm Rib and cast off loosely. Knit the other leg in the same way.

Braces: Cast on 12 sts on needle size 2.5mm with off-white and knit Rib with 1 edge st and a further 2 sts each side in garter sts (seen from the right side). Cast off when piece measures approx 34-40-48 (58-64) cm. Make two and sew to back of trousers (on the inside of rib) with approx 8-9-10 (11-12) cm in between. Sew on buttons to front end of braces and cross braces at back when worn.
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HAT:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)
To fit head circumference: 40/42 – 42/44 – 44/46 (46/48 - 48/50) cm

Pattern: See diagram M.2. The whole pattern is knitted in stocking sts.

The hat is knitted round. Loosely cast on 112-116-120 (124-132) sts with off-white Alpaca on needles size 2.5 mm and purl 1 round. Now knit 10 cm Rib, K2/P2, and change to needle size 3mm and stocking sts and M.2A, at the same time adjusting number of sts to 90-96-102 (108-114). When piece measures 17-17-18 (19-20) cm insert 6 marking threads in piece with 15-16-17 (18-19) sts between each. Continue in M.2A, at the same time dec 1 st on each side of all marking threads (see Decreasing tips under trousers): on every other row 6-7-7 (6-6) times and then on every row 0-0-0 (2-2) times = 18-12-18 (12-18) sts left – knit sts not fitting into pattern when decreasing in off-white. Pull a double strand of Alpaca through the remaining sts, pull tight and attach. Fold the lower 5 cm Rib towards the right side, the hat measures approx 15-16-17 (18-19) cm.
Pompon: Make a pompon with a diameter of approx 4-5 cm and attach to top of hat.
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MITTENS:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)

The 3 bigger sizes with thumbs, the 2 smaller sizes without..
The mitten is knitted round on double pointed needles. Loosely cast on 36-40-44 (48-52) sts with beige-mix Alpaca on needles size 2.5mm and purl 1 round. Continue in Rib with K2/P2 until piece measures 8-8-10 (10-12) cm. Now continue in stocking sts, at the same time adjusting number of sts to 38-42-46 (50-54).
The 3 bigger sizes: After 1 (2-3) cm in stocking sts, put the last 5 (6-6) sts on round on a thread for thumb. Cast on 5 (6-6) new sts over the thread on next row.
All sizes: When piece measures 10-11-12 (13-14) cm knit M.5 over the middle 13 sts on top of hand, knit remaining sts in beige-mix (knit the threads from colour changes into the piece as you go along so that the fingers don’t get caught when wearing the mitten – don’t let the threads follow the piece all the way round, only the pattern sts) After M.5 continue with beige-mix over all sts and insert a marking thread each side when piece measures 15-16-18 (19-21) cm. Now dec 1 st on each side of both marking threads on every row until there are 10 sts left – see Decreasing tips under trousers. Pull a double strand of Alpaca through remaining sts, pull tight and sew. Fold the outer 4-4-5 (5-6) cm of Rib, mitten measures approx 13-14-16 (17-18) cm.

Thumb: Put the 5 (6-6) sts from thread back on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm and pick up 7 (8-8) sts behind these = 12 (14-14) sts. Purl until thumb measures 3 (4-5) cm. Now knit all sts tog 2 and 2. Pull thread through remaining sts and attach.
Knit another mitten, but knit the thumb the other side (applies to the 3 bigger sizes).
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SOCKS:
Size: 1/3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)
To fit foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm

The sock is knitted round. Cast on 44-48-48 (52-56) sts using beige-mix Alpaca on needles size 2.5 mm. Knit 1 round and continue in Rib with K2/P2 until piece measures 4-5-5 (6-7) cm. Knit 1 round, at the same time dec 4-8-4 (8-8) sts evenly = 40-40-44 (44-48) sts. Knit heel as follows: Knit 3-3.5–3.5 (4-4.5) cm stocking stitch back and forth over 16-16-16 (18-18) sts mid back.

Heel decreases: (1st row = right side): K 9-9-9- (10-10), K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece, 2nd row: slip 1 st as if to knit, P 3-3-3 (4-4), P2 tog, P1, turn the piece, 3rd row: slip 1 st as if to knit, K 4-4-4 (5-5), K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece, 4th row: slip 1 st as if to knit, P 5-5-5 (6-6), P2 tog, P1, turn the piece, 5th row: slip 1 st as if to knit, K 6-6-6 (7-7), K2 tog into back of st, K1, turn the piece, 6th row: slip 1 st as if to knit, P 7-7-7 (8-8), P2 tog, P1, turn the piece, 7th row: K2 tog, K 6-6-6 (8-8), K2 tog into back of st = 8-8-8 (10-10) sts on row( = total 32-32-36 (40-40) sts. Pick up 7-8-8- (9-11) sts on each side of heel and put all sts on same needle = 46-48-52 (54-62) sts. Continue in stocking st over all sts. At the same time, dec on each side of the upper 18-20-22 (24-26) sts: 1 st on every other row a total of 7 times = 32-34-38 (40-48) sts. When foot measures 8-9-9 (12-12) cm from the beginning of the dec for heel, insert a marking thread each side. Now dec on both sides of each marking thread (= 4 dec per round) a total of 7-7-8 (8-10) times. Pull thread though remaining sts and sew.

BLANKET: see pattern 13-10

This pattern has been corrected. .

Updated online: 04.09.2014
under Sleeve : ....
Continue in Rib. When piece measures 5 cm, insert a marking thread – measure piece from here, continue in Rib for 5 more cm (= rib measures 10 cm from cast on edge)- and change to needle size 3mm. Knit 1 round whilst adjusting number of sts to 40-42-44 (46-48). .....

Diagram

= off-white
= beige-mix
= middle


Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 13-5) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Comments / Questions (93)

Mari 14.01.2020 - 12:04:

Hei Anteeksi olin itse tehnyt virheen alussa,eli kyllä täsmäävät :)

Mari 14.01.2020 - 11:44:

Sukan kantapääkavennuksen 2. Ja 3. kierros ei täsmää.3.ssa kierroksessa silmukat eivät enään riitä?

Lana 12.01.2020 - 08:21:

Hi.. I finished working on my hat. I was happy with the work done. Unfortunately, however, using delicate hand wash, the work has expanded. Are there any remedies? I used Drops Baby Merino wool .. Help me 😟

DROPS Design 13.01.2020 kl. 09:39:

Dear Lana, Baby Merino is superwash and can be wasked in the washmachine - see shadecard/label and find more informations here. Your DROPS store might have even more tipps for you - even by mail or telephone. Happy knitting!

Lana 01.01.2020 - 14:26:

Hi, i don't understand this for Hat 1-3 months: ".. stockinette sts and M.2A, at the same time adjusting number of sts to 90". How do i perform these decreases?

DROPS Design 01.01.2020 kl. 21:58:

Dear Lana, you count the stitches on your needles, and calculate ho many stitches more (or less) you have. You calculate the difference, The result is the number of stitches you have to increase, or decrease (depending if you have more or less stitches),and then you divide the number of stitches you already have on the needles by this number. This numbertells you, how ften you should increase, or decrease the stitches. Happy Crafting!

Julie Sheehy 30.12.2019 - 22:37:

What length circular needle do I use 9”?

DROPS Design 31.12.2019 kl. 15:33:

Dear Julie, you can use the regular length (80 cm) circulars and when the number of sttches are not enough, change to DPN's. Happy Knitting!

Valentina 20.12.2019 - 21:54:

Scusate, ma non ho capito per il cappello 1-3 mesi come fare a "lavorare seguendo il diagramma M.2A; ALLO STESSO TEMPO, portare il numero delle m a 90".. come eseguo queste diminuzioni?

Bernaud 13.12.2019 - 19:29:

Modèle 6.9 mois. Devant gauche. A 26 cm de hauteur totale, mettre en attente pour l’encolut les 8 mailles du milieu devant !!!!! Je ne comprends pas à quoi elles vont servir ces mailles en attente ????

DROPS Design 16.12.2019 kl. 07:44:

Bonjour Mme Bernaud, ces mailles seront reprises ensuite pour le col - cf "Bordure d'encolure" à la fin des explications du gilet: on relève les mailles le long de la bordure devant droit, on reprend les mailles en attente, on relève les mailles le long de l'encolure (devant droit + dos + devant gauche) et on reprend les mailles en attente du devant gauche et on relève les mailles le long de la bordure du devant gauche. Bon tricot!

Bernadette 25.10.2019 - 16:51:

Beste Wat een mooi pakje ik wil dit graag maken maar mijn dochter heeft wollallergie . Kunt u mij een garen aanbevelen dezelfde kleuren en dikte maar zonder wol erin er mag echt niets inzitten .mvg

DROPS Design 27.10.2019 kl. 17:01:

Dag Bernadette,

Mensen die allergisch zijn voor wol kunnen vaak wel merinogarens verdragen. Je zou bijvoorbeeld babymerino kunnen gebruiken. Dit valt in dezelfde garengroep (met ongeveer dezelfde stekenverhouding)

Lena 25.10.2019 - 10:52:

Hejsan! Jag får inte masktätheten att stämma. Jag får gå upp till st 5 för att få de angivna måtten 24m x 32v, men då blir stickningen för gles enligt mitt tycke. Stämmer verkligen masktätheten?

DROPS Design 28.10.2019 kl. 10:12:

Hei Lena. Ja, strikkefastheten stemmer. Å bruke pinne 5 høres veldig merkelig ut. Har du riktig garn? Jeg vil anbefale deg å kontakte din lokale garnbutikk og la de se på strikkeprøven din. mvh DROSP design

Pille 12.10.2019 - 09:43:

Tere! Ei saa väga hästi mütsi kahandamisest aru. Paigaldan 6 silmusemärkijat ühtlaste vahedega. Saan aru, et koon mustrit edasi ja ühe rea ei kahanda, siis kahandan 6x teisel seal mõlemalt poolt silmusremärkijaid ning siis jätkan sama moodi kuni... mis hetkeni? Ühel hetkel hakkan lihtsalt igal real 2 korda kahandama mõlemal pool keskmiseid silmusemärkijaid? Palun seletage täpsemalt.

DROPS Design 14.10.2019 kl. 13:14:

Tere Pille! Paigaldate 6 silmusemärkijat. Siis kahandate 1 silmuse mõlemal pool iga silmusemärkijat (st igal kahanduse ringil kahandatakse 12 silmust) igal teisel ringil suurusele vastav number kordi, siis kahandate igal ringil jälle suurusele vastav arv kordi (seekord siis ainult 2 suuremal suurusel). Head kudumist!

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