DROPS Safran uni colour 100% Cotton |
2.05 $ /50g |
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Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
DROPS 95-28
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English (US/in)
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Safran uni colour 100% Cotton 2.05 $ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 95-28 |
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DROPS Crochet bikini top in Paris and bikini bottoms in Safran.
DROPS 95-28 |
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Crochet Gauge: 14 sc and 18 rows should measure 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4". Crochet info: At the beginning of each row replace each sc with a ch. Finish each row with a sc in the ch from beginning of previous row. Bikini top: Crochet 2 separate parts and connect them with a crochet edge. Part 1: Loosely ch 8 (10) (includes a ch to turn with) on hook size 5 mm/H/8 with Paris. Crochet 1st row as follows: 1 sc into the 2nd ch from the hook. 1 sc in each of the following 6 (8) ch = 8 (10) sc, turn the piece. Read crochet info and crochet 1 sc in each sc from previous row and continue until the piece measures 6 (7) cm / 2½" (2¾") – insert a marker in the last row. Crochet the next row as follows: Crochet 1 sc in each sc from the previous row, crochet 4 sc in the corner and crochet 8 (10) sc down along the other side = 20 (24) sc on row. Turn the piece and crochet 1 sc in each sc from previous row until the piece measures 10 (11) cm / 4" (4½") from the marker – at the same time when the piece measures 3 cm / 1⅛" inc. 1 sc at one side of the piece (at the side), repeat on every 3 cm / 1⅛" a total of 3 times = 23 (27) sc – Note: Inc 1 sc by crochet 2 sc into the second sc from the side. After the last row the piece measures approx. 16 (18) cm / 6¼" (7") from mid front and out towards the side. Part 2: Crochet as the 1st one but reversed. Assembly: Put the 2 pieces tog. – see fig. 1. Crochet 1 round of sc along the whole bikini edge as follows (begin at the bottom corner on one of the 2 pieces and crochet from the wrong side): 1 sl st into the 1st st, hereafter crochet a sc into each sc/row along the whole bottom edge of the bikini (this way the 2 pieces are kept tog.) and hereafter along the other edges, turn the piece. Crochet a row with laces along the top of the bikini as follows: (don’t crochet along the button edge) ch 4, *skip 1 st, 1 dc into the next st, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with a dc into the last st, turn the piece. Now crochet 1 row of sc’s as follows: *1 ch, 1 sc into the 1st dc, 1 sc around the ch, 1 sc into the next dc*, repeat from *-* along the lace edge and cut the yarn. String: Crochet a string from each side of the bikini and a string at the top of each bikini part to be tied tog. at the back of the neck. String: crochet 1 sl st into the corner of the bikini part, ch 70 (the ch row should measure approx 50 cm / 19¾", or the length you need), turn and crochet 1 sc into the 2nd ch from the hook. Continue to crochet 1 sc into each ch, and finish with a sl st in the sl st from the beginning, cut the yarn. ------------------------------------------------- Bikini bottoms in Safran Crochet Gauge: 21 sc and 26 rows should measure 10 x 10 cm / 4" x 4". Crochet info: Turn every row with a ch. Binding off tips: Bind off as follows at the end of the row: Turn the work when number of sc left on row equals the number of sts to be bound off and crochet the next row. Inc. tips: Inc. as follows at the end of the row: Crochet the number of ch equal to number of inc. + 1 ch extra. Turn the piece and crochet 1 sc into the second ch + 1 sc into each of the remaining ch. Bottoms: The bottoms are crochet in 1 piece, begin at the top front and crochet down between the legs and up the back. Loosely ch 89-95-101 (includes 1 ch to turn with). Continue to crochet 1 sc into each ch = 88-94-0100 sc. Crochet the next row as follows:: ch 4, *skip 1 st, 1 dc into the next st, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with a dc. Continue to crochet a sc into each st. When the piece measures 10-11-11 cm / 4"-4½"-4½" bind off at the end of each row – see binding off tips above: 9 sts 2 times, 4 sts 2 times, 2 sts 1-2-3 times and 1 st 9-10-11 times = 14 sc left on row. The piece now measures approx 21-23-25 cm / 8¼"-9"-9¾" – insert a marker. When the piece measures 8 cm / 3⅛" from the marker inc. each side at the end of each row – see increasing tips above: 1 st 1-2-3 times, 2 sts 4-3-3 times, 3 sts 4-4-4 times and 2 sts 8-10-11 times = 88-94-100 sc. Crochet rows of sc until the piece measures 30-32-34 cm / 11¾"-12½"-13⅜" from the marker (= 9-10-10 cm / 3½"-4"-4" at the sides). Crochet the next row as follows: ch 4, *skip 1 st, 1 dc into the next st, 1 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with a dc. Then crochet 1 row of sc into all st. Fasten off. Assembly: Crochet around each leg as follows: 1 sc, *1 ch, skip 1 st, 1 sc into the next st*, repeat from *-*. Begin at the right side of the front piece, crochet down along the side, around the opening for the leg and up along the back piece. Repeat for the other side - do not crochet along the top edge on front and back. Pull a band, for example leather, into a cross at the sides so that the width of the bottoms may be adjusted. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find 6 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. Have you finished this pattern? |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11643 patterns - 11634 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (28)
Matilda wrote:
Jättefint mönster, men jag undrar om det finns fler bilder? Den bild ni har visar inte så mycket av underdelen
31.05.2024 - 11:19DROPS Design answered:
Hei Mathilda. Vi skal se om vi har noen flere bilder i bildearkivet vårt. Har vi det, vil vi legge disse ut. mvh DROPS Design
03.06.2024 - 10:48Matilda wrote:
Hej! Nu har jag virkat klart min underdel, men kanterna på baksidan rullar sej åt olika håll och är för "slappa". Har ni några tips eller har jag kanske gjort nåt fel? Det hade kanske inte varit ett så stort problem om båda kanterna rullar sej inåt men nu rullar sej en inåt och en utåt så det ser inte bra ut.
31.05.2024 - 11:17DROPS Design answered:
Hei Mathilde. Prøv å damp kantene lett, evnt. fukt plagget og la det tørke flatt. mvh DROPS Design
03.06.2024 - 10:46Mariska wrote:
Am I meant to skip the first single crochet of the top part and single crochet in the chain of the previous row for the top? These instructions aren't very clear
27.06.2022 - 03:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mariska, you first work a small square over 8-10 sc in width and 6-7 cm in height, then you will work along both of the sides of this square and the same time increase in the corner: 1 sc in each of the sc of the previous row, 4 sc in the corner, 8-10 sc along the side of square = 20-24 sc. Continue working 1 sc in each sc for 10-11 cm from marker increasing 1 st on the side on every 3 cm a total of 3 times= 23-27 sc. Happy crocheting!
27.06.2022 - 09:09Anna Zambelli wrote:
Hallo could you translate this pattern in italian? thank you
27.06.2021 - 16:43DROPS Design answered:
Dear Anna, our translators work continiously to translate the patterns, but please understand that the new patterns have priority, so older ones are getting trasnlated, when the translators have extra time between new collections. Happy Stitching!
28.06.2021 - 03:38Janicka Salas wrote:
I love your patterns and have been crocheting for many years but I can not for the life of me figure out what you meant when you get to the bond off section of the bottoms please help. Am I to decrease on both sides start and end of the rows?
07.06.2019 - 18:07DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Salas, when both cups are done, they should look like in fig. 1, starting at the bottom corner of the left cup (when worn) = from WS, crochet 1 sc in each stitch/end of rows along the bottom edge of the left cup, then 1 sc in each st /end of row along the bottom edge of the right cup = both cups are now worked together, turn and work lace row from RS as explained. Happy crocheting!
11.06.2019 - 09:41Efi Tsalikoglou wrote:
Thank you again for this beautiful pattern! Can you please tell me how to attach the sides? It doesn't say and at the photo it seems that you just put a ribbon. Is that correct or is there another way? I hope there is... Thank you in advance.
08.02.2017 - 12:00DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Tsalikoglou, you thread a ribbon in the ch-loops crocheted on both pieces (front and back) in zig zags (like a shoe lace) annd tie them tog at the bottom. Happy crocheting!
08.02.2017 - 13:59Tashi wrote:
Hello there :) Could you tell me how to do the 'binding off bit' during the bikini bottoms. I'm quite confused by this : see binding off tips above: 9 sts 2 times, 4 sts 2 times, 2 sts 1-2-3 times and 1 st 9-10-11 times = 14 dc left on row. and the binding off tips. Please could you explain :) Thank you
13.07.2016 - 16:41DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Tashi, work row until 9 sts remain before end of row, turn and work next row until 9 sts remain before end of row, turn (= 9 sts dec 1 time on each side, ie repeat these 2 rows 1 more time = 9 sts dec 2 times on each side), and continue that way decreasing number of sts worked at the end of row. Happy crocheting!
13.07.2016 - 17:37Vivian :-) wrote:
Hei. vil først få si veldig fin bikini. Skal man øke maske på siden mot armen?
20.07.2015 - 13:28DROPS Design answered:
Hej Vivian, ja det stemmer, du øker mod siden under armen. God fornøjelse!
29.07.2015 - 13:23Jenna wrote:
I am having issues with the bottom of this pattern. The tops of many of your patterns have been super easy and I love them, but I am having issues with the bottom.. After you do your rows of TR it says to continue DC in each stitch and this basically continues down to be the body of suit, I read that as a DC in each space between the TR and that leaves a large amount of space that will make a visable bottom of a bathing suit. Am I reading this correct?
17.08.2014 - 04:34DROPS Design answered:
Dear Jenna, remember that there are different crochet terminology for US & UK ENglish - click here to see both wording. Happy crocheting!
20.08.2014 - 12:57Sandra Fisher wrote:
Im struggling with this pattern from the second part of Part 1. ive got my 20 stitches but when i turn is the row now including the corner i made, and how can something thet measures 10cm also measure 3cm. Im sorry to ask, but it thought this would be a reasonable easy pattern to follow for a beginner/ intermediate. Am i jumping in at the deep end. Thank you in advance.
12.07.2014 - 16:10DROPS Design answered:
Dear Mrs Fisher, when you have 20 sts, work back and forth with 1 dc in each dc (in rows) over the 20 sts until piece measures 10 cm from marker, at the same time inc 1 dc every 3 cm (measured from marker). Happy crocheting!
14.07.2014 - 08:52