DROPS Safran uni colour 100% Cotton |
2.05 $ /50g |
Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
Change language:
English (US/in)
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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here
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DROPS Safran uni colour 100% Cotton 2.05 $ /50g Order |
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
Clicking the ORDER button will redirect you to Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd website
The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!
All measurements in charts are in cm.
Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.
These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:
Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?
Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.
The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.
The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?
The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.
Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?
The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.
Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.
See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?
What are the yarn groups?
All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.
How do I use the yarn converter?
At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).
If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.
Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?
Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.
It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.
The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.
What size should I knit?
If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.
You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart
Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?
The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.
Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.
See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge
See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch
Why is the pattern worked top-down?
Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.
The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.
How do I work according to a knitting diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.
When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.
When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
How do I work according to a crochet diagram?
The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.
When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.
When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.
When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.
The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?
Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.
The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.
See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams
See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams
Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?
The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.
Where on the garment is the length measured?
The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder (usually closest to the neckline), and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.
See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing
What is a repeat?
Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.
Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?
Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.
Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?
The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.
Why increase in the cast-off edge?
It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.
See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)
How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?
To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.
See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately
How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?
Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.
See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open
Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?
Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.
See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?
Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?
Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.
Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!
How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?
If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.
Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.
How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?
All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.
Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding
Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:
1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.
2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.
3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.
4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.
Why does my garment pill?
Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.
You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.
DROPS 95-26 |
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DROPS Crochet bikini top with tassels in Safran
DROPS 95-26 |
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Crochet info: Turn each row with 3 ch. Increasing tips: Inc 2 dc by crocheting 3 dc in dc with marking thread. ---------------------------------------------------------------- Bikini top: Crochet each cup separately from bottom up. Cups are joined by crocheting together bottom edges. Cup: Ch 48-57-66 (includes 3 ch to turn with) using hook size 3mm/ C and Safran. 1st row: 1 dc in the 5th ch from the hook, *skip 1 ch, 1 dc in each of the next 2 ch*, repeat from *-* and finish with 1 dc in the last ch = 31-37-43 dc (the first dc = 3 ch). Insert a marker in the middle dc and let the marker follow the piece as you progress. Remaining rows: Crochet 1 dc in each dc – see Crochet info – at the same time inc 2 dc in the middle of the piece – see Increasing tips above – on the next 4-4-5 rows = 39-45-53 dc. Now start decreasing in the middle of the piece: on first row skip 1 dc in the middle of piece, on the following rows skip the middle 2 dc. Continue the dec until there are 4 dc left on row – piece measures approx 18-21-25 cm / 7"-8¼"-9¾". Crochet tie-string over the remaining 4 dc – 1 dc in each dc – until string measures approx 40 cm / 15¾", fasten off. Crochet one more cup. Joining together the cups: Crochet 1 dc in each of the dc at bottom edge on 1 cup and then 1 dc in each of the dc at bottom edge of the other cup = 62-74-86 dc. Crochet 2 rows with 1 dc in each dc, on the last row adjusting number of dc to 61-74-85 – do this by skipping the occasional dc. Change to crochet hook size 4mm / US G and crochet next row as follows: Size S: ch 5, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, *2 ch, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* to the end of row = 20 ch spaces. Turn the piece, crochet sl sts to the middle of first ch space, ch 5, 1 dc in next ch space, *2 ch, 1 dc in next ch space*, repeat from *-* to the end of row = 19 ch spaces. Size M: ch 5, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc, *3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, ch 2, skip 2 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* to the end of row = 21 ch spaces. Turn the piece, crochet sl sts to the middle of first ch space, ch 5, 1 dc in next ch space, *2 ch, 1 dc in next ch space, ch 3, 1 dc in next ch space*, repeat from *-* to the end of row = 20 ch spaces. Size L: ch 6, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc, *3 ch, skip 3 dc, 1 dc in next dc*, repeat from *-* to the end of row = 21 ch spaces. Turn the piece, crochet sl sts to the middle of first ch space, ch 6, 1 dc in next ch space, *3 ch, 1 dc in next ch space*, repeat from *-* to the end of row = 20 ch spaces. All sizes: Continue like this (i.e. 1 less ch space per row) until there are 2 ch spaces left, fasten off. Crochet ch spaces around the triangular front pieces as follows, using crochet hook size 4mm / US G and starting at the top on the right side: 1 sc in the last dc-row before the ch spaces, ch 3, 1 sc in first ch space, *3 ch, 1 sc in next ch space*, repeat from *-* around the triangle and finish with 1 sc in first dc-row on the left side. Tie-strings for back: Crochet a tie-string form both sides of bikini top, using crochet hook size 3 mm/ C and starting in the lower row of dc as follows: 1 sl st and ch 3, 9 dc along the edge (2 dc in each dc). Turn the piece with 3 ch and crochet 1 dc in each dc. Continue until string measures approx 15-17-19 cm / 6"-6¾"-7½". Now dec 1 dc at the beginning of each row by skipping the first dc from previous row. Continue to decrease until there are 4 dc left on row and continue over these 4 dc until string measures approx 40-45-50 cm / 15¾"-17¾"-19¾". Fasten off and crochet a similar string the other side. Tassels: Insert tassels along the sides of triangular front piece. 1 tassel = 2 strands, each 35 cm / 13¾" long. Fold strands, pull loop through ch space and pull ends through loop. Put a bead on tassel and tie a knot approx 5 cm / 2" from the top. Insert a tassel in every other ch space on both sides. |
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Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them! Do you need help with this pattern?You'll find tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com. © 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site. |
With over 40 years in knitting and crochet design, DROPS Design offers one of the most extensive collections of free patterns on the internet - translated to 17 languages. As of today we count 309 catalogs and 11629 patterns - 11620 of which are translated into English (US/in).
We work hard to bring you the best knitting and crochet have to offer, inspiration and advice as well as great quality yarns at incredible prices! Would you like to use our patterns for other than personal use? You can read what you are allowed to do in the Copyright text at the bottom of all our patterns. Happy crafting!
Comments / Questions (44)
Isabelle wrote:
Bonjour, quelle doit être le diamètre des perles, svp ? Merci beaucoup
28.04.2024 - 12:22DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, elles faisaient environ 0,9-1 cm. Bon crochet!
29.04.2024 - 09:42Isabelle wrote:
Bonjour, je suis en train de faire le triangle. J’en suis au lien. Je dois le crocheter sur 40 cm ou bien ces 40 cm sont à mesurer depuis tout l’ouvrage. Sinon, je suis d’accord avec les crocheteuses, les trous lorsqu’on saute 2 brides sont affreux. J’ai modifié le modèle et j’ai fait des diminutions en crochetant 3 brides en un. Ça se voit, mais c’est moins vilain que ces trous. Je pourrai vous envoyer une photo si vous le souhaitez. . Bien cordialement
28.04.2024 - 08:29DROPS Design answered:
Bonjour Isabelle, le lien doit mesurer environ 40 cm de longueur totale dans la 1ère taille. Bon crochet!
29.04.2024 - 09:14Karen Gunther wrote:
What "p.e." means? I think it's a kind of crochet point, but I can't find it anywhwere.
20.08.2023 - 04:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Karen, which language are you working in? For example, in Spanish, p.e is "punto enano" or slip stitch. Happy crocheting!
20.08.2023 - 17:08May wrote:
Hallo! Ich habe ein Problem bemerkt beim Häkeln des Körbchens, nämlich, dass beim Arbeiten kleine Lücken zwischen den Stäbchen entstehen, wodurch man leicht durch den Stoff hindurchsehen kann, was nicht gerade praktisch ist, wenn man das Top ohne BH tragen möchte... Irgendwelche Tipps, was ich machen könnte, um die Dichte irgendwie zu erhöhen, damit man nicht so sehr durch die Maschen sehen kann? Brauche ich dickeres Garn oder eine kleinere Nadel oder so?
17.07.2023 - 18:50DROPS Design answered:
Liebe May, diese Löcher entstehen wenn man die Stäbchen überspringt, wenn Sie kein Loch möchten, nehmen Sie am besten ab. Viel Spaß beim häkeln!
27.07.2023 - 11:06Lucia Battisti wrote:
Buongiorno vorrei capire se le diminuzione devono essere eseguite due assieme perché mi rimane un buco grazie
06.06.2021 - 19:15DROPS Design answered:
Buonasera Lucia, si creerà un piccolo buco con le diminuzioni. Buon lavoro!
06.06.2021 - 19:37Red wrote:
Welchen Durchmesser haben die Holzperlen?
23.08.2020 - 16:40Kat wrote:
The cup i am working doesnt form a triangle rather the middle part is arising or having "angles". The sides dont get in shape (or forming a triangle) it remain straight. How can i fix this? Thank you.
17.06.2018 - 20:57DROPS Design answered:
Dear Kat, make sure you first increase 2 sts in the middle of piece (4-5 times depending on the size), then decrease first 1 st in the middle of piece (skipping the middle stitch) 1 time and continue skipping the 2 middle sts in the middle of piece until 4 sts remains. Happy crocheting!
18.06.2018 - 09:15Katrin wrote:
In increasing the decrease of every row is quite confusing. skipping 3stitches leaves a little hole in the middle of a row no matter how tight my tension is. how must i decrease, am i doing correctly?
01.06.2018 - 17:13DROPS Design answered:
Dear Katrin, in the middle of piece you will skip 2 sts and this will create a small hole - that belongs to the pattern. If you rather don't want any hole, you can crochet the 3 middle dc tog (= 2 sts dec). Happy crocheting!
04.06.2018 - 08:09Emelie wrote:
Hej! Följer man mönstret med de +2 de 4-5 varven så bildas en utbuktning som är väldigt osmickrande. MEN, om man istället ökar +2 de första 2 varven och sedan bara ökar med +1 tills man kommer upp i antalet 39-45-53 så blir det en mjuk och fin kurva. Ser man på bilden så är det även omöjligt att det är 9 stolpar i början av knytbandet, det ser konstigt ut om man följer det. Gör man bara 4-5 st ser det mer ut som på bilden. /Emelie
25.04.2018 - 13:42Hollie Walker wrote:
Hi, I’m following your pattern however I am unsure of what to do when it states “Crochet tie-string over the remaining 4 tr - 1 tr in each tr” do you have a tutorial for this?
16.03.2018 - 22:37DROPS Design answered:
Dear Hollie, once a cup is finished, there will be 4 trebles (UK) left at its top edge. Into these 4 stitch the tie is crocheted, with 1 treble into each stitch. We don't have a special video for this particular model, but this videomight help you. Happy crafting!
17.03.2018 - 12:26