DROPS Baby / 4 / 3

Sweet Snuggles by DROPS Design

DROPS jacket, jumpsuit or dress, hat and socks in “BabyMerino”.

Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 - 3/4 years)

Materials: DROPS BabyMerino, from Garnstudio

The whole set:
Girl: 200-200-250 (250-300) g colour no 04, yellow
150-150-150 (200-250) g colour no 07, pink
Jumpsuit/dress with sleeves = + 50 g yellow

Boy: 200-200-250 (250-300) g colour no 24, light blue
150-150-150 (200-250) g colour no 30, blue
Jumpsuit with sleeves = + 50 g light blue

Jumpsuit/dress only:
Girl: 150-200-200 (250-300) g colour no 04, yellow
Jumpsuit/dress with sleeves = + 50 g yellow
Boy: 150-200-200 (250-300) g colour no 24, light blue
Jumpsuit/dress with sleeves = + 50 g light blue

DROPS circular needle, pointed and double pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm
DROPS button: jumpsuit: 5 pcs, dress: 3 pcs, jacket: 4 pcs

Have you knitted/crocheted this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Want to use a different yarn? Try our yarn converter!

100% Wool
from 3.10 £ /50g
DROPS Baby Merino uni colour DROPS Baby Merino uni colour 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
Order
DROPS Baby Merino mix DROPS Baby Merino mix 3.10 £ /50g
Wool Warehouse Direct Ltd
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DROPS Needles & Hooks
You can get the yarn to make this pattern from 21.70£. Read more.

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.
JACKET:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)
DROPS pointed needles size 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm
DROPS buttons, 4 pcs.

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in pattern = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, on circular needle: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Buttonhole: make buttonholes on both front piece when piece measures 2-2-2 (2-2) cm and 7.5-8-9.5 (10-10) cm. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3rd and 4th st from edge and cast on 2 new sts on return row.
Pattern: See diagram. The diagrams show the pattern from the right side.

Right front piece: Cast on 67-73-81 (95-99) sts (incl 1 edge st for seam) on needle size 2.5 mm with pink and knit 2 rows garter st. Continue in M.1 with 1 edge st at side and 2 sts towards mid front in garter st. Remember buttonholes (see above) and the knitting tension. When piece measures 8.5-9-10.5 (12-12) cm dec to shape the neckline as follows:
Size 3 months: on every other row: 4 sts 1 time, 2 sts 14 times, and then on every 4th row: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 5 times.
Size 6/9 months: on every other row: 6 sts 1 times, 4 sts 2 times, 2 sts 9 times, and then on every 4th row: 2 sts 7 times, 1 st 3 times.
Size 12/18 months: on every other row: 6 sts 1 time, 2 sts 19 times, 1 st 3 times, and then on every 4th row: 1 st 7 times.
Size 2 years: on every other row: 5 sts 1 time, 2 sts 24 times, and then on every 4th row: 1 st 10 times
Size 3/4 years: on every other row: 4 sts 2 times, 2 sts 25 times, and then on every 4th row: 2 sts 3 times, 1 st 5 times.
At the same time, when piece measures 17-18-21 (24-24) cm dec to shape the armhole on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 1-1-1 (2-1) times, 1 st 2-1-1 (1-1) times. Cast of remaining sts when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

Left front piece: Cast on and knit as right front piece, but mirrored. Remember buttonholes on opposite side.

Back piece: Cast on 68-74-82 (96-100) sts (incl 1 edge each side) on needle size 2.5 mm with pink and knit 2 rows garter st. Continue in M.1 with edge sts in garter st. When piece measures 17-18-21 (24-24) cm dec to shape the armhole as described for front piece = 54-62-70 (80-88) sts. When piece measures 25-27-31 (35-38) cm cast off the middle 16-22-24 (28-36) sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 1 st 2 times. Cast of when piece measures 27-29-33 (37-40) cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 40-40-42 (44-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with pink and knit 2 rows garter st. Continue in M.1- make sure to have a pattern repeat mid upper arm. At the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 6-9-10 (12-20) times as follows:
Size 3 months: on every 6th round
Size 6/9 + 12/18 months: on every 5th round
Size 2 years: on every 4th and 5th round alternately
Size 3/4 years: on every 3rd and 4th round alternately
= 52-58-62 (68-84) sts. When piece measures 13-16-17 (19-23) cm cast off 4 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 3 sts 4 times. Cast off, sleeve measures approx 16-19-20 (22-26) cm.

Assembly:
Sew shoulder seams. Pick up approx 156-178-196 (224-252) sts round the entire neckline on needle size 2.5 mm with pink and knit 4 rows garter st, cast off. Now crochet a border round neckline on crochet hook size 2.5 mm with pink: 1 dc, *3 ch, 1 dc in first ch, skip 2 sts, 1 dc*, repeat from *-*. Set in sleeves. Sew on buttons, 2 on RS of right piece, and 2 on the WS of left piece.

JUMPSUIT/DRESS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)
DROPS pointed needles size 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm
DROPS buttons, jumpsuit 5 pcs, dress 3 pcs

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 35 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in stocking sts = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: K all rows.
Garter st, on circular needle: K 1 round, P 1 round.
Pattern: See diagram.

JUMPSUIT:
Left leg: Cast on 72-80-80 (88-88) sts on circular needle size 2.5 mm with yellow and knit 2 cm garter st. Continue in stocking st, at the same time inc on inside leg on every 1-1.5-1.5 (2-2.5) cm: 2 sts 8 times = 88-96-96 (104-104) sts. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 17-18-20 (25-28) cm divide piece at inside leg (= split) and complete piece back and forth on needle. Inc 1 st each side for seam = 90-98-98 (106-106) sts. When piece measures 18-20-23 (27-30) cm cast off 5-7-3 (5-5) sts each side = 80-84-92 (96-96) sts. Put piece aside and knit the other leg.

Right leg: knit as left leg.

Trousers: Put both legs in on the same circular needle = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. Knit 3 rounds and now inc mid back on both sides of the middle 2 sts on every other row: 1 st 8 times, at the same time dec mid front on every other row on both sides of the middle 2 sts = 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. When piece measures 25-26-28 (33-36) cm cast off 8 sts mid back for opening mid mid back and complete piece back and forth on needle = 152-160-176 (184-184) sts. When piece measures 44-48-53 (58-61) cm knit 2 rows in garter st and complete piece in M.1. When piece measures 47-51-56 (61-64) cm divide piece as follows: 36-38-42 (44-44) sts = back piece, 80-84-92 (96-96) sts = front piece, 36-38-42 (44-44) = back piece. Now complete each piece separately.

Dress:
Cast on 200-216-216 (224-224) sts on circular needle 2.5 mm with yellow, knit 4 rounds garter sts and continue in stocking st. Remember the knitting tension. When piece measures 17-23-32 (35-36) cm knit 2 rounds in garter st, at the same time dec evenly on first round to 160-168-184 (192-192) sts. Complete piece in M.1. After 2 cm cast off 8 sts mid back for opening and complete piece back and forth on needle = 152-160-176 (184-184) sts. When piece measures 20-26-35 (38-39) cm divide the piece as follows: 36-38-42 (44-44) sts = back piece, 80-84-92 (96-96) sts = front piece, 36-38-42 (44-44) = back piece. Now complete each piece separately.

Jumpsuit and dress with or without sleeves:
Left back piece: = 36-38-42 (44-44) sts. Dec to shape the armhole on every other row: 2 sts 2-1-1 (1-0) times, 1 st 4-4-4 (1-1) times = 28-32-36 (41-43) sts. When piece measures 55-60-66 (72-78) cm dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 6-7-8 (10-13) sts 1 time, 2 sts 1 time, 1 st 1 time. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 57-62-68 (74-80) cm.

Right back piece: as left front piece.

Front piece: = 80-84-92 (96-96) sts. Dec to shape the armhole as described for back piece = 64-72-80 (90-94) sts. When piece measures 53-58-64 (69-75) cm cast off the middle 10-12-14 (18-24) sts for neck and dec to shape the neckline on every other row: 3 sts 1 time, 2 sts 2 times, 1 st 1 time. Cast off remaining sts when piece measures 57-62-68 (74-80) cm.

Sleeve: Cast on 38-40-42 (44-44) sts on double pointed needles size 2.5 mm with pink and knit 2 cm garter st. Continue in stocking st, at the same time inc 2 sts mid under arm a total of 7-9-10 (12-20) times as follows:
Size 3 + 12/18 months + 3/4 years: on every 3rd round
Size 6/9 months + 2 years: on every 4th round
= 52-58-62 (68-84) sts. When piece measures 11-14-15 (17-22) cm cast off 6 sts mid under arm and complete sleeve back and forth on needle. Dec to shape the sleeve cap each side on every other row: 4 sts 4 times. Cast off, sleeve measures approx 14-17-18 (20-25) cm.

Assembly:
Jumpsuit: Left back edge: pick up approx 80-86-94 (100-104) sts along left back piece on circular needle size 2 mm with yellow, P 1 row and knit 2.5 cm Rib back and forth on needle, cast off. Right back edge: pick up and knit as left side, but after 1 cm make 5 buttonholes evenly distributed on row. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts on return row. Fasten edge at bottom of split.
Dress: Left back edge: pick up approx 26-36 sts along left back piece on circular needle size 2 mm with yellow, P 1 row and knit 2.5 cm Rib back and forth on needle, cast off. Right Back edge: pick up and knit as left side, but after 1 cm make 3 buttonholes evenly distributed on row. 1 buttonhole = cast off 3 sts and cast on 3 new sts on return row. Fasten edge at bottom of split.
Jumpsuit and dress: Pick up approx 80-80-85 (90-90) sts round the neck on needle size 2.5 mm with yellow and knit 1.5 cm garter st, cast off. If without sleeves: Pick up approx 60-65-70 (85-90) sts round armholes on needle size 2.5 mm with yellow and knit 4 rows garter st, cast off. Now crochet a border round the neckline, armholes and bottom edges on crochet hook size 2.5 mm as follows: 1 dc, *3 ch, 1 dc in first ch, skip 2 sts, 1dc*, repeat from *-*. Sew tog split on inside of legs and sew tog the opening between legs from mid front to mid back. Sew on buttons.

HAT:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)
Head circumference: 39-41-43 (45-45) cm
DROPS pointed needles size 2 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 28 sts x 38 rows on needles size 2 mm in stocking st = 10 x 10 cm.
Garter st on circular needle: K 1 round, P 1 round.

Cast on 108-114-120 (126-126) sts on double pointed needles size 2 mm with pink and knit 6 rounds garter st. When piece measures 9-10-10 (10.5-11.5) cm insert 6 MT evenly on round = 18-19-20 (21-21) sts between each MT. Now K tog the 2 sts after each MT (= 6 less sts per round). Repeat this dec on every round until piece measures 14-15-15 (16-17) cm. Cut thread, pull through remaining sts and fasten. Now crochet a border with crochet hook size 2.5 mm with pink round the hat as follows: 1 dc, *3 ch, crochet 1 htr and 1 tr in first ch, skip 2 sts, 1dc*, repeat from *-*.


SOCKS:
Size: 3 – 6/9 – 12/18 months (2 -3/4 years)
Foot length: 10-11-12 (14-15) cm
DROPS pointed needles size 2 mm and 2.5 mm
DROPS crochet hook size 2.5 mm

Knitting tension: 26 sts x 52 rows on needles size 2.5 mm in garter st = 10 x 10 cm.
Rib: *K1, P1*, repeat from *-*.
Garter st, back and forth on needle: Knit all rows.

Cast on 46-50-50 (54-54) sts on needle size 2 mm with yellow and knit 6-7-7 (8-8) cm Rib back and forth on needle. Knit 1 row stocking st and change to needle size 2.5 mm, at the same time dec 10-14-8 (12-8) sts evenly = 36-36-42 (42-46) sts. Knit next row as follows from RS: *K2 tog, 1 yo*, repeat from *-*. Knit 1 row stocking st. Put 12-12-14 (12-14) sts on a thread each side and knit 6-7-9 (10-10) cm garter st on the middle 12-12-14 (18-18) sts. Put sts from threads back on needle and pick up 16-18-23 (26-26) sts on each side of the middle piece = 68-72-88 (94-98) sts. Knit 3-4-4 (5-5) cm garter st on all sts, at the same time after 2-2.5-2.5 (3-3) cm dec on every other row as follows: 1 st at the beg and 1 st at the end of row and K2 tog on both sides of the middle 2 sts for another 3-4-4 (5-5) cm. Cast off and sew seam under foot and along the Rib. Crochet a chain on crochet hook size 2.5 mm, approx 30-35 cm long, and thread through eyelet row.

Diagram

= K (Jacket)
= P (Jacket)



Do you need help with this pattern?

Thank you for choosing a DROPS Design pattern. We take pride in providing patterns that are correct and easy to understand. All patterns are translated from Norwegian and you can always check the original pattern (DROPS Baby 4-3) for measurements and calculations.

Are you having trouble following the pattern? See below for a list of resources to help you finish your project in no time - or why not, learn something new.

We have also step-by-step guides for different techniques which you'll find here.

1) Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size only serve as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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2) What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

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3) Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

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4) How do I use the yarn converter?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn converter, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the converter will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be converted separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn converter

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5) Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

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6) Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

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7) Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

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8) What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

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9) How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

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10) How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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11) How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

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12) Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

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13) Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

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14) Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

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15) How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

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16) Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

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17) How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

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18) Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

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19) Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn converter, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn converter will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

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20) How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

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21) How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

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22) Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

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23) How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

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Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store where you bought the yarn. Find a list of DROPS stores here!
Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days. In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Comments / Questions (14)

Anne Umstadt 10.03.2020 - 17:59:

Ich stricke die mittlere Größe. Ich habe für die Hose 80M angeschlagen und dann noch 16 M zugenommen = 96M. Nach der Teilung der Arbeit im Schritt nochmal auf beiden Seiten 1M. zugenommen = 98M. Danach hab ich 3 cm hochgestrickt. Nun soll auf beiden Seiten je 3M angekettet werden. Das verstehe ich nicht. Bei der kleinsten Größe sind 5, bei der nächsten Größe 7 und bei der mittleren Größe nur 3 M abzuketten???? Liebe Grüße und Danke

DROPS Design 11.03.2020 kl. 08:28:

Liebe Frau Umstadt, wenn Sie die 2. Größe stricken, dann ketten Sie 7 Maschen am Anfang jeder beiden nächsten Reihen = 14 Maschen weniger sind 84 Maschen übrig. Wenn Sie die 3. Größe stricken, dann ketten Sie 3 Maschen am Anfang beiden nächsten Reihen = 6 Maschen weniger sind 92 Maschen übrig. Viel Spaß beim stricken!

Sara Vernon 03.02.2019 - 22:51:

Hi I don't understand the instruction on the jacket fronts to knit 2 stitches towards mid front in garter stitch. Why and won't it ruin the pattern?

DROPS Design 04.02.2019 kl. 13:56:

Dear Mrs Vernon, these 2 sts are towards mid front are for front band sts and will be worked in garter stitch until you start to bind off for neck. Happy knitting!

Kirsti 16.10.2018 - 12:32:

I have knitted lots and lots of Drops items (maybe hundreds) and normally I get the tension right by using the recommended needle size. With this pattern, though, my tension was way, way out and even when increasing to a size 3mm needle I am still maybe 10% out. I am using Baby Merino as well, so don't understand how this is happening. Has anybody else had the same problem?

DROPS Design 16.10.2018 kl. 15:49:

Dear Kirsti, remember needle size is only a suggestion! If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles. You may like to first wash your swatch then check the tension again after drying, and then only adjust needle size if necessary. Happy knitting!

Quiquinne 02.10.2018 - 19:14:

Quel point pour ce modèle 1 maille endroit une envers ok mais pour le retour que fait on?

DROPS Design 03.10.2018 kl. 07:41:

Bonjour Quiquinne, M.1 se tricote ainsi: Rang1: 1 m end, 1 m env. Rang 2 (en allers et retours = sur l'envers): tricotez toutes les mailles à l'envers / (en rond): tricotez toutes les mailles à l'endroit. Rang3: 1 m env, 1 m end. Rang4 = comme le rang 2. Bon tricot!

Anna Svensson 04.05.2018 - 19:57:

Diagram Drops Baby 4-3 M1 visas från rätsidan. Hur stickar man på avigsidan?

DROPS Design 07.05.2018 kl. 13:55:

Hej, diagrammet visar alla varv sett från rätsidan, dvs. vit ruta stickas avig från avigsidan och svart ruta stickas räta från avigsidan.

Sabine Wüllner 11.03.2018 - 11:13:

Hallo. Ich stricke gerade die Mütze aus diesem Set und frage mich, wie oft ich die Abnahmen wiederholen soll, bzw. wie viele Restmaschen übrig bleiben sollen. Danke für die Hilfe. Liebe Grüße Sabine Wüllner

Ulla Faber 27.12.2017 - 15:57:

Jeg kan ikke finde mønstre på Drops baby 4-3 på jeres hjemmeside M1. Nederst på siden står der Design, men der er intet link eller forklaring man kan få frem der. Vil I sende mig beskrivelse på mønstret så jeg kan komme videre med jakken. mvh Ulla

DROPS Design 03.01.2018 kl. 11:23:

Hei Ulla. Her manglet den danske diagramteksten, slik at målskissene og diagrammet ikke vistes. Håper du fant denne informasjonen på den norske siden slik atdu fikk strikket i jula. Takk for at du gjorde oss oppmerksom på dette og det er nå ordnet. mvh Drops design

Maertens Ghislaine 03.05.2014 - 15:25:

Ik begrijp niet in welke steek er word gebreid er staat 2x ribbelsteek mvg ghislaine

DROPS Design 05.05.2014 kl. 19:59:

Dit is een groot patroon met meerdere kledingstukken. Graag precies aangegeven waarover u een vraag hebt, zodat we u kunnen helpen.

JCA Den Hoed 10.01.2013 - 00:40:

Ik zou graag willen weten hoeveel wol/katoen ik nodig heb om alleen het vestje te breien?

DROPS Design 11.01.2013 kl. 13:32:

150-150-150 (200-250) gr.kleur nr. 7, roze

DROPS Design 21.01.2009 - 08:33:

Hej Gunnel, du skall avmaska på vartannat varv så här 4 maskor en gång, 2 maskor 14 gånger. Detta för att koftan skall bli omlott.

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