DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g

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DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g

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DROPS Buttons
Arched (white) No. 521

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DROPS Needles & Hooks

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 36.40£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Nimbus Haze Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, raglan and vents in sides. Size: S - XXXL

Highlight Size:

DROPS 252-34

#nimbushazecardigan

DROPS design: Pattern ab-158
Yarn group C and A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
250-300-300-350-350-400 g colour 0100, off white
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
100-100-100-125-125-150 g colour 44, moonshine

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 7 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length: 80 cm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 7 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 521: 5-5-6-6-6-6 pieces

KNITTING TENSION:
13 stitches in width and 16 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality needle size 7 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (when working back and forth):
Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

BAND:
WORK BAND AT BEGINNING OF ROW AS FOLLOWS:
Slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1 and work 4 stitches in garter stitch.
WORK BAND AT END OF ROW AS FOLLOWS:
Work until 6 stitches remain on row, work 4 stitches in garter stitch, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.

RAGLAN:
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over, on next row purl yarn over twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in stocking stitch.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band (when garment is worn). Decrease from right side when 5 stitches remain on row as follows:
ROW 1 (= right side): Make 1 yarn over, knit 2 together, knit 1, slip 1 stitch purlwise with strand in front of piece, knit 1.
ROW 2 (= wrong side): Work band as before and knit yarn over to make a buttonhole.
Decrease for first buttonhole on first row from right side after neck edge has been worked. Then decrease the next 4-4-5-5-5-5 buttonholes, approx. 9½-10-8-8½-9-9½ cm apart. Place bottom buttonhole in the transition between stocking stitch and rib.

DECREASE TIP (applies to mid under sleeves):
Decrease 1 stitch on each side of marker thread as follows: Work until 3 stitches remain before marker thread, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
In this pattern needles of different length have been used, begin with fitting length for number of stitches and switch as needed.
Work neck edge and yoke back and forth needle from mid front, work top down.
When yoke is done, divide piece for body and sleeves. Work body downwards back and forth on circular needle while putting the sleeves aside. Divide the body for vents in each side and then finish front pieces and back piece back and forth separately. Then work sleeves downwards in the round on needle. Fold the neck edge double against the wrong side and fasten.

NECK EDGE:
Cast on 73-79-81-81-89-95 stitches on circular needle size 7 mm with DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm (cast on on a larger needle to get an elastic cast-on edge).
Purl 1 row from wrong side. Work next row from right side as follows: Work 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1), until 2 stitches remain, knit 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue rib like this until neck edge measures 7 cm (= approx. height of neck edge when it is folded double).
At the end of each of the next 2 rows cast on 5 stitches for band = 83-89-91-91-99-105 stitches on needle. Continue with rib as before and BAND WITH I-CORD in each side - read explanation above. Work until neck edge measures 14 cm – finish with a row from wrong side.
Insert 1 marker on the inside of band in one side of piece, measure piece from this marker.

YOKE:
Switch to circular needle size 7 mm and work as follows:
Work band as before, 8-10-10-10-12-14 stitches in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch for RAGLAN - read explanation above, knit 3, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit the next 13 stitches, increase for raglan, knit 3, increase for raglan, work 17-19-21-21-25-27 stitches in stocking stitch, increase for raglan, knit 3, increase for raglan, work 13 stitches in stocking stitch, increase 1 stitch for raglan, knit 3, increase 1 stitch for raglan, 8-10-10-10-12-14 stitches in stocking stitch and work band as before. NOTE! The 3 stitches in stocking stitch in each raglan line should be worked over knit 1, purl 1, knit 1 from rib.
Decrease for BUTTONHOLES - read explanation above.
Work stocking stitch with band as before, back and forth and increase for RAGLAN on each side of the 3 stitches in each raglan line - read explanation above. Increase for raglan every other row 2-3-6-6-7-7 times in total = 99-113-139-139-155-161 stitches (= 8 stitches increased on every increase row).
Remember to follow the knitting tension! Then continue increase as follows:
Increase for raglan on every other row on front pieces and back piece, but on sleeves increase only on every 4th row (= alternately 4 and 8 stitches increased), repeat this increase 18-18-16-18-18-18 in total on front pieces and back piece and 9-9-8-9-9-9 times on sleeves.
After last increase there are 207-221-235-247-263-269 stitches on row, then work until piece measures approx. 25-26-28-30-31-32 cm from marker mid front.
Now divide yoke for body and sleeves.

DIVIDING FOR BODY AND SLEEVES:
AT THE SAME TIME as next row is worked divide yoke for body and sleeves as follows: Work 36-39-40-42-45-47 stitches as before (= front piece), slip the next 37-39-43-45-47-47 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-12-16 new stitches on row (= in the side mid under sleeve), work 61-65-69-73-79-81 stitches as before (= back piece), slip the next 37-39-43-45-47-47 stitches on a stitch holder for sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-10-12-16 new stitches on row (= in the side mid under sleeve) and work the last 36-39-40-42-45-47 stitches as before (= front piece). Finish body and sleeves separately.

BODY:
= 145-155-165-177-193-207 stitches. Insert 1 marker thread in each side on body, in the middle of the 6-6-8-10-12-16 stitches cast on under each sleeve and move the marker threads when working, use the marker threads when piece is divided for vents in each side.
Work back and forth from mid front over all stitches with stocking stitch and band as before.
Work until piece measures 38-40-42-43-45-47 cm from marker mid front, finish with a row from wrong side.
Now divide the piece for vent in each side of body, divide at the marker threads by setting the stitches from back piece and right front piece on hold and working stitch from left front piece back and forth on needle as explained below.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
= 39-42-44-47-51-55 stitches. On next row (= right side) begin rib while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 8-9-9-10-10-12 stitches evenly on row (do not increase over band) = 47-51-53-57-61-67 stitches, work as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm, work band as before, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1 - remember increase) until 3 stitches remain, knit 1 and 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above.
When rib measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm cast off. Jacket measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm from marker mid front and approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the top of shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
= 39-42-44-47-51-55 stitches. On next row (= right side) begin rib while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 8-9-9-10-10-12 stitches evenly on needle = 47-51-53-57-61-67 stitches, work as follows:
Switch to circular needle size 5 mm, work 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1 - remember increase) until 7 stitches remain, knit 1 and band as before.
When rib measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm cast off.

BACK PIECE:
= 67-71-77-83-91-97 stitches. On next row (= right side) begin rib while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 16-18-18-20-22-24 stitches evenly on needle = 83-89-95-103-113-121 stitches, work as follows:
Continue with circular needle size 5 mm, work 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work rib (= knit 1/purl 1 - remember increase) until 3 stitches remain, knit 1 and 2 stitches in garter stitch.
When rib measures 8-8-8-9-9-9 cm cast off.

SLEEVES:
Slip 37-39-43-45-47-47 sleeve stitches from one thread on to circular needle size 7 mm and pick in addition up 1 stitch in each of the 6-6-8-10-12-16 stitches cast on under sleeve = 43-45-51-55-59-63 stitches.
Insert 1 marker thread in the middle of the 6-6-8-10-12-16 new stitches under sleeve - round begins at the marker thread.
Work in stocking stitch in the round on needle - AT THE SAME TIME when sleeve measures 3 cm from division, decrease mid under sleeve – read DECREASE TIP and decrease as follows: Decrease 2 stitches every 14-9-5½-4½-3-2½ cm 3-4-6-7-9-10 times in total = 37-37-39-41-41-43 stitches.
Work until sleeve measures 36-35-33-32-31-30 cm from division.
Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm and work rib (= knit 1/purl 1) while AT THE SAME TIME increasing 7-7-7-9-9-9 stitches evenly on 1st round = 44-44-46-50-50-52 stitches.
When piece measures 6 cm cast off. Sleeve measures approx. 42-41-39-38-37-36 cm from division.

ASSEMBLY:
Fold rib at the top of neck down on inside of garment. Fasten rib to get a double neck edge. To avoid a tight neck edge that sticks out it is important to keep the seam elastic. Sew opening towards mid front together on bands with neat little stitches. Sew the buttons on to the left band.

Diagram

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #nimbushazecardigan or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Comments / Questions (3)

Marcela Hachuel wrote:

If when I finish with increases I have 221 stitches for the M size, then that's 170 cm divided 2 : 85 cm width not 55 cm as in the drawing. It's huge.

29.10.2024 - 09:59

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Mrs Hachuel, the 221 stitches include sleeves too, you will then divide stitches for body and get then only 155 sts for body, which should be approx. 55 cm in width - back piece is 65 sts + 3 sts armhole on each side = 71 sts = approx. 55 cm. Happy knitting!

29.10.2024 - 17:16

Anita Dik wrote:

Hallo. Begrijp ik nou goed dat het hele patroon met beide wolsoorten samen gebreid wordt? Dank, Anita

29.10.2024 - 09:14

Dag Anita,

Ja, dat klopt helemaal, je breit het hele werk met 2 draden. 1 draad van elke kwaliteit.

30.10.2024 - 19:31

Un desastre las medidas están todas mal .He tenido que destejer casi todo. Nunca me había pasado con Drops. Muy decepcionada y la pérdida de tiempo!

28.10.2024 - 19:15

Nimbus Haze Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, raglan and vents in sides. Size: S - XXXL

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Pattern instructions

Diagram

How to work a jumper top down

How to read a size chart

How to measure the knitting tension and how to calculate a pattern

How to increase/decrease evenly!

Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

How can I get help with a DROPS pattern?

How to change yarns or yarn amounts

How to choose yarn

How to cast on

How to knit stitches

How to work purl stitches

How to decrease stitches

How to cast off from the right side

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 252-34

Comments / Questions (3)

Nimbus Haze Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted top down with double neck edge, raglan and vents in sides. Size: S - XXXL

Do you need help with this pattern?

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	DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide	3.60 £ /50g	Order
	DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide	3.60 £ /50g	Order

	DROPS Alpaca Bouclé uni colour 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide 3.60 £ /50g Order
	DROPS Alpaca Bouclé mix 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide 3.60 £ /50g Order