DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Button 630
DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 630
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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  4. Slipovers
  5. DROPS
  6. 255
  7. 40

Latte Love Vest

Knitted waistcoat in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted bottom up in stocking stitch with edges in garter stitch, i-cord and opening in the side. Size: S - XXXL

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Highlight Size:
DROPS 255-40

#lattelovevest

DROPS design: Pattern ab-159
Yarn group C and A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 2020, light beige
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-100-100-100-100 g colour no 20, light beige

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 630: 4 pieces for all sizes

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length: 80 cm

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 17 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality needle size 6 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

-------------------------------------------------------

Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

-------------------------------------------------------

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DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
DROPS Alpaca Bouclé
 80% Alpaca, 15% Wool, 5% Polyamide
from 3.60 £ /50g
DROPS Kid-Silk
DROPS Kid-Silk
75% Mohair, 25% Silk
from 4.60 £ /25g
Button 630
DROPS Buttons
Marbled No. 630
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 28.20£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. Convert from cm to inches here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, convert "crochet terms" here. See this pattern in American English here..
----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (when working back and forth):
Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

I-CORD CAST-OFF:
At the end of round and after last stitch on round has been worked:
Cast on 3 new stitches on right needle from right side.
Slip the 3 new stitches from right needle to left needle so that working yarn is 3 stitches in on left needle (the working yarn tightens the piece when working to form a little tube).
ROW 1 (= right side):
Knit 2, knit the next 2 stitches twisted together.
ROW 2 (= right side):
Slip the 3 stitches from right needle back on left needle, knit 2, knit the next 2 stitches twisted together.
AFTER 2ND ROW:
Repeat ROW 2 until 3 stitches remain on right needle. Slip the 3 stitches from right needle back on left needle. Cast off.
Sew a little stitch that binds beginning/end of I-cord together.
----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

WAISTCOAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. Work front and back piece separately. Sew the parts together on the shoulders and sew on buttons for decoration in each side. Finish by picking up stitches around the neck and cast off with I-cord.

BACK PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 94-102-110-118-130-138 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand of each colour (= 2 strands).
Work rib, begin from right side as follows: Work 8 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2), until 10 stitches remain on row, knit 2 and finish with 8 stitches in garter stitch.
Work until rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm, work 1 row in stocking stitch with 8 stitches in garter stitch in each side while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 16-18-20-22-24-24 stitches evenly on first row (do not decrease over stitches in garter stitch in each side) = 78-84-90-96-106-114 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 8 stitches in garter stitch in each side. Remember to follow the knitting tension!
When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm cast off 4 stitches in each side for armholes = 70-76-82-88-98-106 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the middle 24-24-26-26-28-28 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately.

SHOULDER:
On next row cast off 1 stitch from the neck = 22-25-27-30-34-38 stitches remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on the same number of stitches and work the same way as back piece until piece measures 50-52-54-55-57-59 cm.
Now slip the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches on a thread for neck, and finish each shoulder separately.

SHOULDER:
Now cast off stitches for neck on every other row as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time, and 1 stitch 2 times = 22-25-27-30-34-38 stitches remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew on 2 buttons for decoration in each side of waistcoat, place stitches in garter stitch from front piece over stitches in garter stitch from back piece, then fasten button through both layers. Place top button approx. 3 cm from armhole and place the next approx. 9-10 cm below.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 62 to 74 stitches around the neck (including stitches on the thread) with 1 strand of each quality and on a short circular needle size 6 mm. Work in stocking stitch in the round for 7 cm, then cast off with I-cord - read explanation above.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 17.10.2024
The pattern is updated. Correction under I-Cord cast-off.

Diagram

diagram measurements
© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!
Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #lattelovevest or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.

Post a comment to pattern DROPS 255-40

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Comments / Questions (17)

country flag Eleaume wrote:

Je manque de fil kid-silk. En effet après contrôle des quantités ; pour 250 g de drops alpaga soit 5 pelotes × 140 m, il faut au moins 150 g de kid-silk soit 3 pelotes × 200 m et non 100 gr comme indiqué sur les modèles à partir de la taille L. Ma commande date du 6/11 pas sûre d'avoir le même bain et en plus des frais de port... Pas sympa.

12.12.2024 - 22:51

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Mme Eleaume, notez que DROPS Kid-Silk se présente sous la forme de pelotes de 25 grammes, autrement dit, pour 100 g, il faut 4 pelotes de 25 grammes. Pensez également à bien conserver la bonne tension en largeur mais aussi en hauteur, s'il vous faut plus de rangs par exemple, vous aurez besoin de davantage de laine que dans le modèle. Bon tricot!

13.12.2024 - 07:56

country flag Ela wrote:

Eine tolle Wolle, ein toller Pullunder ;-))

06.12.2024 - 15:59

country flag Neigeda wrote:

Bonjour, je ne comprends pas combien de pelotes je dois commander pour ce modèle en taille L. Merci

04.12.2024 - 07:55

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Neigeda, vous trouverez les quantités nécessaires dans chacune des 2 laines sous l'onglet "Explications" en haut de page; il faut ici en taille L: 250 g DROPS Alpaca Bouclé/50 g la pelote= 5 pelotes Alpaca Bouclé + 100 g DROPS Kid-Silk/25 g la pelote = 4 pelotes Kid-Silk. Bon tricot!

04.12.2024 - 16:01

country flag Sirven wrote:

Très bien et original

27.11.2024 - 23:20

country flag Sirven wrote:

Comment commander les éléments nécessaires pour tricoter ce modèle et combien de pelotes

27.11.2024 - 23:19

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour, la liste de magasins DROPS en France est disponible ICI. Bon tricot!

28.11.2024 - 08:21

country flag Jeannet wrote:

Waar komen de knoopsgaten ergens ? Op welke hoogte en over hoeveel steken ?

27.11.2024 - 00:30

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Jeannet,

Er worden geen knoopsgaten gemaakt, maar de knopen worden ter decoratie bevestigd.

27.11.2024 - 11:21

country flag Mariachiara wrote:

Si possono usare i ferri per lavare questo modello

24.11.2024 - 18:31

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Mariachiara, questo modello è lavorato in piano, quindi può usare anche i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

27.11.2024 - 00:07

country flag Cristina Terranova wrote:

Invece dei ferri circolari si possono usare per questo modello i ferri normali?🙄 Grazie per l'attenzione

22.11.2024 - 09:21

DROPS Design answered:

Buonasera Cristina, questo modello è lavorato in piano, per cui può utilizzare anche i ferri dritti. Buon lavoro!

23.11.2024 - 20:16

country flag Lars Notlev wrote:

Der er fejl på siden. Opskrift kan ikke udskrives da side ikke bliver færdig indlæst

09.11.2024 - 09:36

country flag Ria Koopmans wrote:

Ik wil deze spencer op rechte naalden breien. Ik heb geprobeerd met Rondbreinaald en, maar ik heb daar hele grote moeite mee. En hoe kan ik het patroon aanpassen en met naalden 6 breien.

26.10.2024 - 09:08

DROPS Design answered:

Dag Ria,

Het patroon kun je omrekenen op basis van de stekenverhouding van jouw proeflapje.

Om een patroon aan te passen om op rechte naalden te breien hebben we een instructie gemaakt. Deze vind je hier.

27.10.2024 - 14:45

Latte Love Vest



Knitted waistcoat in DROPS Alpaca Bouclé and DROPS Kid-Silk. Piece is knitted bottom up in stocking stitch with edges in garter stitch, i-cord and opening in the side. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 255-40
DROPS design: Pattern ab-159
Yarn group C and A
----------------------------------------------------------

SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS ALPACA BOUCLÉ from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
200-200-250-250-300-300 g colour 2020, light beige
And use:
DROPS KID-SILK from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group A)
75-75-100-100-100-100 g colour no 20, light beige

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 630: 4 pieces for all sizes

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 6 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4.5 mm: Length: 80 cm

KNITTING TENSION:
14 stitches in width and 17 rows vertically in stocking stitch and 1 strand of each quality needle size 6 mm = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

----------------------------------------------------------

EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

----------------------------------------------------------

GARTER STITCH (when working back and forth):
Knit on all rows, i.e. knit from right side and knit from wrong side.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

I-CORD CAST-OFF:
At the end of round and after last stitch on round has been worked:
Cast on 3 new stitches on right needle from right side.
Slip the 3 new stitches from right needle to left needle so that working yarn is 3 stitches in on left needle (the working yarn tightens the piece when working to form a little tube).
ROW 1 (= right side):
Knit 2, knit the next 2 stitches twisted together.
ROW 2 (= right side):
Slip the 3 stitches from right needle back on left needle, knit 2, knit the next 2 stitches twisted together.
AFTER 2ND ROW:
Repeat ROW 2 until 3 stitches remain on right needle. Slip the 3 stitches from right needle back on left needle. Cast off.
Sew a little stitch that binds beginning/end of I-cord together.
----------------------------------------------------------

START THE PIECE HERE:

----------------------------------------------------------

WAISTCOAT - SHORT OVERVIEW OF PIECE:
Worked back and forth on circular needle, bottom up. Work front and back piece separately. Sew the parts together on the shoulders and sew on buttons for decoration in each side. Finish by picking up stitches around the neck and cast off with I-cord.

BACK PIECE:
Work back and forth on circular needle. Cast on 94-102-110-118-130-138 stitches on circular needle size 4.5 mm with 1 strand of each colour (= 2 strands).
Work rib, begin from right side as follows: Work 8 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above, work rib (= knit 2/purl 2), until 10 stitches remain on row, knit 2 and finish with 8 stitches in garter stitch.
Work until rib measures 6-6-6-7-7-7 cm. Switch to circular needle size 6 mm, work 1 row in stocking stitch with 8 stitches in garter stitch in each side while AT THE SAME TIME decreasing 16-18-20-22-24-24 stitches evenly on first row (do not decrease over stitches in garter stitch in each side) = 78-84-90-96-106-114 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 8 stitches in garter stitch in each side. Remember to follow the knitting tension!
When piece measures 36-37-38-39-40-41 cm cast off 4 stitches in each side for armholes = 70-76-82-88-98-106 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 4 stitches in garter stitch in each side.
When piece measures 56-58-60-62-64-66 cm, cast off the middle 24-24-26-26-28-28 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately.

SHOULDER:
On next row cast off 1 stitch from the neck = 22-25-27-30-34-38 stitches remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

FRONT PIECE:
Cast on the same number of stitches and work the same way as back piece until piece measures 50-52-54-55-57-59 cm.
Now slip the middle 18-18-20-20-22-22 stitches on a thread for neck, and finish each shoulder separately.

SHOULDER:
Now cast off stitches for neck on every other row as follows: Cast off 2 stitches 1 time, and 1 stitch 2 times = 22-25-27-30-34-38 stitches remain on each shoulder. Cast off when piece measures 58-60-62-64-66-68 cm.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew on 2 buttons for decoration in each side of waistcoat, place stitches in garter stitch from front piece over stitches in garter stitch from back piece, then fasten button through both layers. Place top button approx. 3 cm from armhole and place the next approx. 9-10 cm below.

NECK EDGE:
Pick up approx. 62 to 74 stitches around the neck (including stitches on the thread) with 1 strand of each quality and on a short circular needle size 6 mm. Work in stocking stitch in the round for 7 cm, then cast off with I-cord - read explanation above.

Have you made this or any other of our designs? Tag your pictures in social media with #dropsdesign so we can see them!

Do you need help with this pattern?

You'll find 21 tutorial videos, a Comments/Questions area and more by visiting the pattern on garnstudio.com.
Have you purchased DROPS yarn to make this pattern? Then you are entitled to receive help from the store that sold you the yarn.

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S. We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights. Read more about what you can do with our patterns at the bottom of each pattern on our site.

Have you finished this pattern?
Tag your pictures with #dropspattern #lattelovevest or submit them to the #dropsfan gallery.