DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g

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Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.10£.

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Frosted Mountains Cardigan

Knitted jacket in DROPS Paris or DROPS Bomull-Lin. Piece is knitted bottom up with lace pattern. Size: S - XXXL

DROPS 240-15
DROPS design: Pattern w-883
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZE:
S - M - L - XL - XXL - XXXL

YARN:
DROPS PARIS from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
550-600-650-750-800-850 g colour 16, white

Or use:
DROPS BOMULL-LIN from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-700-750-800 g colour 01, white

BUTTONS:
DROPS BUTTON NO 522: 5-5-5-6-6-6 pieces

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 mm: Length 40 and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 mm
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 mm
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows vertically in stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE! Remember that needle size is only a suggestion. If you have too many stitches on 10 cm switch to larger needles. If you have too few stitches on 10 cm switch to smaller needles.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jackets & Cardigans bottom up lace round neck sewn in sleeves

UK
Ireland

DROPS Paris
100% Cotton
from 1.10 £ /50g

Order

DROPS Needles & Hooks

Order

Get the yarn to make this pattern from 12.10£.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Pattern instructions

NOTE: This pattern is written in British English. All measurements in charts are in cm. For conversion from cm to inches - click here. There are different terms for crocheting in British and American English. If this pattern includes crochet, click for "crochet terms" here. For this pattern in American English, please click here.

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EXPLANATION FOR THE PATTERN:

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GARTER STITCH (back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge vertically = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 to A.5. Choose diagram for your size (applies to A.2). Diagrams show all rows in pattern seen from the right side.

DECREASE TIP (applies to neck when decreasing 1 stitch):
Decrease for neck inside 3 stitches in stocking stitch.
All decreases are done from the right side!
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS AFTER 3 STITCHES IN STOCKING STITCH:
Slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked (= 1 stitch decreased).
DECREASE AS FOLLOWS BEFORE 3 STITCHES IN STOCKING STITCH:
Work until 5 stitches remain mid front, knit 2 together, work the last 3 stitches in stocking stitch (= 1 stitch decreased).

INCREASE TIP (applies to sleeves):
Begin 1 stitch before marker thread, make 1 yarn over, work 2 stitches as before (marker thread is between these 2 stitches), make 1 yarn over.
On next round work yarn overs twisted to avoid holes. Then work the new stitches in pattern.

BUTTONHOLES:
Decrease for buttonholes on right band. 1 BUTTONHOLE = knit third and fourth stitch from edge together and make 1 yarn over. On next row knit yarn over to make hole.
Decrease for buttonholes when piece measures:
S: 7, 16, 26, 35 and 45 cm
M: 7, 17, 27, 37 and 47 cm
L: 7, 17, 28, 38 and 49 cm
XL: 7, 16, 25, 34, 43 and 52 cm.
XXL: 7, 16, 25, 35, 44 and 53 cm
XXXL: 7, 16, 26, 35, 45 and 54 cm

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JACKET - SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
Work back piece and front pieces back and forth on circular needle, bottom up, separately. Work sleeves in the round on double pointed needles/circular needle from bottom and up to sleeve cap, then work the rest of sleeve back and forth on circular needle until finished measurements. Finish with a neck edge.

BACK PIECE:
Cast on 94-98-110-122-134-138 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Paris or DROPS Bomull-Lin. Purl 1 row from wrong side. Then work rib as follows from right side: 2 stitches in GARTER STITCH - read explanation above - * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 and finish with 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 6 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm, work in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side while same time decreasing 10-8-10-12-14-12 stitches evenly on first row = 84-90-100-110-120-126 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch until piece measures 7-8-10-10-10-11 cm from cast-on edge.
Continue to work pattern from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. On last row in A.1 decrease 1-0-1-1-1-1 stitch inside 1 stitch in garter stitch = 83-90-99-109-119-125 stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-0-0-1-2-1 stitches as first stitch in A.2, work A.2 10-11-12-13-14-15 times in total, work 1-0-1-2-3-2 stitches as last stitch in A.2, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-0-2-1-0-0 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3A, work A.3B 12-13-14-16-18-19 times in total, A.3C, work 0-1-2-1-0-0 stitches in stocking stitch, 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side, at the same time increase 1-0-1-1-1-1 stitch on first row inside 1 stitch in garter stitch = 84-90-100-110-120-126 stitches. When A.1 has been worked one time vertically piece measures approx. 26-27-29-30-30-31 cm.

Then work A.2 from right side as explained here while at the same time decreasing 1-0-1-1-1-1 stitch on first row = 83-90-99-109-119-125 stitches. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-0-0-1-2-1 stitches as first stitch in A.2, work A.2 10-11-12-13-14-15 times in total, work 1-0-1-2-3-2 stitches as last stitch in A.2, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 2-3-7-9-12-11 stitches for armholes at the beginning of the next 2 rows = 79-84-85-91-95-103 stitches. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 3-0-1-4-1-0 stitches as first stitch in A.4A, A.4A, work A.4B 6-7-7-7-8-9 times in total, work A.4C, 3-1-1-4-1-0 stitches as last stitch in A.4C and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.5 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side. Repeat A.5 2 times in total vertically. Then work in stocking stitch until finish measurements with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch in each side.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
When piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm, decrease for neck and slip stitches on a thread for diagonal shoulder as explained below. Read section NECK and DIAGONAL SHOULDER before continuing.

NECK:
Cast off the middle 21-22-23-25-25-27 stitches for neck and finish each shoulder separately. Then decrease 1 stitch for neck on every row from right side 3 times in total - read DECREASE TIP.

DIAGONAL SHOULDER:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm, slip the outermost stitches towards armhole on a thread for diagonal shoulder, work them before slipping them on the thread to avoid cutting the yarn. Slip 7-7-7-8-8-9 stitches on a thread 3 times, and then the last 5-7-7-6-8-8 stitches on the thread. All stitches have now been cast off or slipped on a thread. Slip the 26-28-28-30-32-35 stitches from thread back on circular needle size 5 mm. Purl 1 row from wrong side but to avoid a hole where turning mid piece, pick up the yarn between 2 stitches and work twisted together with first stitch on left needle. Then loosely cast off all stitches by knitting from right side. Piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the top of shoulder. Work the other shoulder the same way.

LEFT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 53-57-61-65-73-77 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Paris or DROPS Bomull-Lin. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work rib as follows from right side: 2 stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, work from *-* until 7 stitches remain, knit 2 and 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 6 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work from right side as follows: 1 stitch in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch until 5 stitches remain on needle and decrease at the same time 5-7-5-5-7-9 stitches evenly over these stitches, finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch = 48-50-56-60-66-68 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front until piece measures 7-8-10-10-10-11 cm from cast-on edge.

Continue to work pattern from right side as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, work A.1 until 5 stitches remain, finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. On last row in A.1 decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 47-49-55-59-65-67 stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, continue as follows: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-1-0-2-1-2 stitches as first stitch in A.2, work A.2 5-5-6-6-7-7 times in total, work 1-2-1-3-2-3 stitches as last stitch in A.2, finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from right side: 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 1-2-2-1-1-2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3A, work A.3B 5-5-6-7-8-8 times in total, A.3C, work 1-2-2-1-1-2 stitches in stocking stitch and 5 stitches in garter stitch. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.1 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and 5 stitches in garter stitch as before towards mid front, at the same time increase 1 stitch on first row = 48-50-56-60-66-68 stitches. When A.1 has been worked one time vertically piece measures approx. 26-27-29-30-30-31 cm.
Then work A.2 from right side as explained here while at the same time decreasing 1 stitch on first row = 47-49-55-59-65-67 stitches. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-1-0-2-1-2 stitches as first stitch in A.2, work A.2 5-5-6-6-7-7 times in total, work 1-2-1-3-2-3 stitches as last stitch in A.2, finish with 5 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.

When piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 2-3-7-9-12-11 stitches for armhole = 45-46-48-50-53-56 stitches (work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in stocking stitch). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.4 from right side as explained here while at the same time adjusting number of stitch to 47-47-49-49-53-57 stitches on first row. Work 1 edge stitch in garter stitch, 0-0-1-1-3-0 stitches as first stitch in A.4A, A.4A, work A.4B 3-3-3-3-3-4 times in total, work A.4 C, 0-0-1-1-3-0 stitches as last stitch in A.4C and 5 stitches in garter stitch. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.5 with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side and 5 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front. At the same time adjust number of stitches to 45-47-48-50-53-56 stitches on first row. Repeat A.5 2 times in total vertically. Then finish front piece in stocking stitch with 1 stitch in garter stitch towards the side and 5 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front.

When piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm, slip the outermost 15-15-16-16-17-17 stitches towards mid front on a thread for neck, work them before slipping them on the thread to avoid cutting the yarn.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Cast off for neck and slip stitches on a thread for diagonal shoulder as explained below. Read section NECK and DIAGONAL SHOULDER before continuing.

NECK:
Decrease for as follows: Decrease 1 stitch for neck on every row from right side 4 times in total - remember DECREASE TIP.

DIAGONAL SHOULDER:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm, slip the outermost stitch on a thread for diagonal shoulder the same way as on back piece.
When all stitches have been decreased and slipped on a thread, slip the 26-28-28-30-32-35 stitches from thread back on circular needle size 5 mm. Work 1 row in stocking stitch, the same way as on back piece and then loosely cast off all stitches. Piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the top of shoulder.

RIGHT FRONT PIECE:
Cast on 53-57-61-65-73-77 stitches on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Paris or DROPS Bomull-Lin. Purl 1 row from wrong side, then work rib as follows from right side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * knit 2, purl 2 *, repeat from *-* until 4 stitches remain, knit 2 and 2 stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 6 cm. Switch to circular needle size 5 mm and work from right side as follows: 5 stitches in garter stitch, work in stocking stitch until 1 stitch remains on needle and decrease at the same time 5-7-5-5-7-9 stitches evenly over these stitches, finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch = 48-50-56-60-66-68 stitches. Continue in stocking stitch with 5 band stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side until piece measures 7-8-10-10-10-11 cm from cast-on edge.

Continue to work pattern from right side as follows: 5 stitches in garter stitch, work A.1 until 1 stitch remains, finish with 1 stitch in garter stitch. On last row in A.1 decrease 1 stitch inside 1 edge stitch in garter stitch = 47-49-55-59-65-67 stitches. When A.1 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch, 0-1-0-2-1-2 stitches as first stitch in A.2, work A.2 5-5-6-6-7-7 times in total, work 1-2-1-3-2-3 stitches as last stitch in A.2, finish with 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work as follows from right side: 5 stitches in garter stitch, 1-2-2-1-1-2 stitches in stocking stitch, A.3A, work A.3B 5-5-6-7-8-8 times in total, A.3C, work 1-2-2-1-1-2 stitches in stocking stitch and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch. When A.3 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.1 with 5 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side, at the same time increase 1 stitch on first row = 48-50-56-60-66-68 stitches. When A.1 has been worked one time vertically piece measures approx. 26-27-29-30-30-31 cm.
Then work A.2 from right side as explained here while at the same time decreasing 1 stitch on first row = 47-49-55-59-65-67 stitches. Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, 0-1-0-2-1-2 stitches as first stitch in A.2, work A.2 5-5-6-6-7-7 times in total, work 1-2-1-3-2-3 stitches as last stitch in A.2 and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch.

When piece measures 28-29-30-31-32-33 cm, cast off 2-3-7-9-12-11 stitches for armhole = 45-46-48-50-53-56 stitches (work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in stocking stitch). When A.2 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.4 from right side as explained here while at the same time adjusting number of stitch to 47-47-49-49-53-57 stitches on first row. Work 5 stitches in garter stitch, 0-0-1-1-3-0 stitches as first stitch in A.4A, A.4A, work A.4B 3-3-3-3-3-4 times in total, work A.4C, 0-0-1-1-3-0 stitches as last stitch in A.4C and 1 stitch in garter stitch. When A.4 has been worked 1 time vertically, work A.5 with 5 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and 1 edge stitch in garter stitch towards the side. At the same time adjust number of stitches to 45-47-48-50-53-56 stitches on first row. Repeat A.5 2 times in total vertically. Then finish front piece in stocking stitch with 5 stitches in garter stitch towards mid front and 1 stitch in garter stitch towards the side.

When piece measures 44-46-47-49-50-52 cm, slip the outermost 15-15-16-16-17-17 stitches towards mid front on a thread for neck, work them before slipping them on the thread to avoid cutting the yarn.

OVERVIEW OF NEXT SECTION:
Cast off for neck and slip stitches on a thread for diagonal shoulder as explained below. Read section NECK and DIAGONAL SHOULDER before continuing.

NECK:
Decrease for neck as follows: Cast off 1 stitch for neck on every row from right side 4 times in total - remember DECREASE TIP.

DIAGONAL SHOULDER:
AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 46-48-50-52-54-56 cm, slip the outermost stitch on a thread for diagonal shoulder the same way as on back piece.
When all stitches have been decreased and slipped on a thread, slip the 26-28-28-30-32-35 stitches from thread back on circular needle size 5 mm. Work 1 row in stocking stitch, the same way as on back piece and then loosely cast off all stitches. Piece measures approx. 50-52-54-56-58-60 cm from the top of shoulder.

SLEEVES:
Cast on 56-56-60-60-64-64 stitches on double pointed needles size 4 mm with DROPS Paris or DROPS Bomull-Lin. Knit 1 round. Insert 1 marker thread at beginning of round.
Work rib (knit 2/purl 2) for 10 cm. Switch to double pointed needles size 5 mm. Knit 1 round and decrease 11-9-11-9-11-9 stitches evenly = 45-47-49-51-53-55 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the 23rd-24th-25th-26th-27th-28th stitch on round (mid on top of sleeve). Marker thread mid under sleeve is used when increasing under sleeve and marker mid on top of sleeve should be used to count where to begin pattern.

Now work pattern and increase stitches as explained below:
Count out from the middle stitch where the pattern should start - stitch with marker on sleeve should fit middle stitch in diagram. Work the stitches that do not fit the pattern in stocking stitch. Work pattern upwards as follows: A.1, A.2, A.4B, A.5. When the patterns have been worked in this order, work in stocking stitch until finished measurements.

AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 12-12-12-13-14-12 cm, increase 1 stitch on each side of marker thread - read INCREASE TIP. Increase like this every 4½-4-3½-3-2½-2½ cm 8-9-9-10-11-12 times in total = 61-65-67-71-75-79 stitches (these increases are done before the sleeve cap is worked).
When piece measures approx. 47-46-44-42-41-42 cm, divide piece at the marker thread and work sleeve cap back and forth on circular needle. Cast off when sleeve measures 48 cm in all sizes. Work the other sleeve the same way.

ASSEMBLY:
Sew the shoulder seams. Sew side seams inside 1 edge stitch – begin at armhole and sew down to rib to create vents in the sides.
Sew sleeve cap to armhole inside edge stitch on front pieces / back piece. Then sew vent at the top of sleeve to bottom of armhole - see chart.

NECK EDGE:
Begin from right side, and pick up approx. 88 to 106 stitches around the neck (including stitches slipped on a thread mid front) on circular needle size 4 mm with DROPS Paris or DROPS Bomull-Lin. Number of stitches must be divisible by 4. Work rib as follows from wrong side: 5 band stitches in garter stitch, * purl 2, knit 2 *, repeat from *-* until 7 stitches remain on needle, purl 2 and finish with 5 band stitches in garter stitch. Continue rib like this for 4 cm. Cast off knitting from right side.

Diagram

	= knit from the right side, purl from the wrong side
	= purl from the right side, knit from the wrong side
	= between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over
	= knit 2 together
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 1, pass slipped stitch over stitch worked
	= slip 1 stitch knitwise, knit 2 stitches together, pass slipped stitch over stitches worked together
	= sew sleeve cap to armhole as follows: Sew a against A and b against B.
	= middle stitch

© 1982-2024 DROPS Design A/S We reserve all rights. This document, including all its sub-sections, has copyrights.
What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

These step-by-step tutorials might also help you:

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Why is the knitting/crochet tension so important?

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

How do I know how many balls of yarn I need?

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

Can I use a different yarn than what the pattern suggests?

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

What are the yarn groups?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

How do I use the yarn calculator?

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Why do you show discontinued yarns in the patterns?

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

What size should I knit?

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

Why do I get the wrong knitting tension with the suggested needle size?

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Why is the pattern worked top-down?

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

How do I work according to a knitting diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

How do I work according to a crochet diagram?

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

How do I work several diagrams simultaneously on the same row/round?

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Why are the sleeves shorter in larger sizes?

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

Where on the garment is the length measured?

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

What is a repeat?

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Why does the piece start with more chain stitches than it’s worked with?

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

Why increase before the rib edge when the piece is worked top-down?

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

Why increase in the cast-off edge?

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

How do I increase/decrease on every 3rd and 4th row/round alternately?

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

How can I work a jacket in the round instead of back and forth?

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Can I work a jumper back and forth instead of in the round?

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Why is the pattern slightly different than what I see in the photo?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

How do I make a women’s size garment into a men’s size one?

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

How do I prevent a hairy garment from shedding?

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Why does my garment pill?

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (5)

Sylvia wrote:

I've just finished knitting the cardigan and sleeve cape is much shorter than armhole for joining and I done everything by the pattern what have I done wrong ? I increased the 65sts as stated

13.06.2023 - 12:26

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Sylvia, in this video we show how to finish such a sleeve (first worked in the round then back and forth) and how to sew the sleeve around armhole. In the 2nd size you should have 65 sts = appro. 38 cm / 2 = 19 cm just as deep as the armhole in this size (see chart). Happy assembly!

13.06.2023 - 13:40

I’m struggling to understand left front neck shaping m size after says slip 15sts of for neck it says decrease 1st 4 times do I start that on next row or wait till measures 48cm? If I do it then will have to carry on bit longer for shoulder. After casting off for shoulder should I be left with the 15sts for neck?

01.06.2023 - 14:32

Dear Sylvia, you are working size M, right? then when piece measures 46 cm, work one row from wrong side slipping the first 15 sts on a thread (work them first), then work row to the end and continue in pattern as before and decrease for neck on next row from RS (at the end of row) as explained under DECREASE TIP. At the same time, work short rows for shoulder when piece measures 48 cm. After all stitches are decreased for neck there are 28 sts for shoulder. You will work the 15 sts from thread when working neck edge afterwards. Happy knitting!

01.06.2023 - 16:46

Rey wrote:

Bonjour Je ne comprend pas pour la tete manche : Diviser l ouvrage au fil marqueur ? Il faut que je tricote separement en 2 fois au fil marqueur ? Et après faire une couture sur l épaule ? Merci pour votre réponse. Bonne journée

03.04.2023 - 08:45

Bonjour Mme Rey, la manche se tricote en rond jusqu'à la tête de manche, on continue ensuite en rangs, en commençant au milieu sous la manche (au niveau du marqueur du début des tours), Dans cette vidéo, nous montrons comment nous continuons la manche en rangs. Bon tricot!

11.04.2023 - 10:57

Hiiroki wrote:

Bonjour, Je ne comprends pas comment faire l'encolure. Si on prend celle du dos tailles S, j'ai 26 mailles de chaque côté en attentes, 21 mailles rabattues au milieu et 3 mailles entre chaque.... "Diminuer ensuite pour l'encolure 3 fois 1 maille tous les rangs sur l'endroit " cela me semble impossible d'autant que si je dois rabattre les mailles du milieu en premier je ne peux plus faire de diminution.... Merci d'avance de votre aide

28.03.2023 - 19:59

Bonjour Mme Hiiroki, vous devez former l'encolure et le biais des épaules en même temps; rabattez les 21 mailles centrales pour l'encolure et mettez les mailles de l'épaule en attente (= en début de rang sur l'envers (épaule gauche dos) / sur l'endroit (épaule droit dos), et en même temps, rabattez pour l'encolure en début de rang à partir de l'encolure (sur l'endroit, épaule gauche dos / sur l'envers, épaule droite dos). Bon tricot!

29.03.2023 - 09:46

Janne wrote: