DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.80 € /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

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October Breeze

Knitted jumper in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with double neck and raglan. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 236-14
DROPS Design: Pattern ne-362
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour 8914, red clay

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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Alternative Yarn – See how to change yarns here
Yarn Groups A to F – Use the same pattern and change the yarn here
Yarn usage using an alternative yarn – Use our yarn converter here

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More like this:
Women Jumpers Basic Jumpersassembly free double neck raglan round neck stocking stitch top down
DROPS Nepal
DROPS Nepal
 65% Wool, 35% Alpaca
from 1.80 € /50g
needles
DROPS Needles & Hooks
Get the yarn to make this pattern from 18.00€.

The yarn cost is calculated from the pattern’s smallest size and the yarn’s cheapest product type. Looking for an even better price? You might find it on the DROPS Deals!

Comments (31)

Pattern instructions

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases before/after A.1/A.2 (marker-stitch is the middle stitch in A.1/A.2).
Increase for the body before markers 1 and 3 and after markers 2 and 4 when working from the right side and after markers 1 and 3 and before markers 2 and 4 when working from the wrong side.
Increase for the sleeves after markers 1 and 3 and before markers 2 and 4 (always increase from the right side on the sleeves).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over.

The yarn overs are worked as follows from the wrong side:
BEFORE MARKER:
Purl the back loop. No hole.
AFTER MARKER:
Slip the yarn-over off the left needle and replace it twisted (insert the left needle from the back when replacing it). Purl the front loop. No hole.

The yarn overs are worked as follows from the right side:
BEFORE MARKER:
Slip the yarn-over off the left needle and replace it twisted (insert the left needle from the back when replacing it). Knit the front loop. The stitch twists to the right. No hole.
AFTER MARKER:
Knit the back loop (the stitch twists to the left). No hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches with DROPS Nepal using short circular needles size 4 and 5 mm held together. Remove the needle size 5 mm keeping the stitches on the needle size 4 mm (this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 9 cm.
Fold the neck double to the inside and work 1 more round of rib, working every 2nd stitch together with its corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge.
You now have a double neck.

Insert 4 markers without working the stitches, which are then used when increasing to raglan.
Count 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches (half back piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 21-23-25-27-29-31 stitches (front piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch, there are 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches left after the last marker (half back piece). Cut the strand.

NECK-LINE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Now work a neck-line with short rows AT THE SAME TIME as increasing for raglan. In addition work A.1 at each marker (marker-stitch is the middle stitch in A.1):
Start from the right side, 2 stitches before marker-3 (front left-hand side of the neck when the garment is worn). Work stocking stitch, A.1 and increase for RAGLAN on both sides of each A.1 – read description above, until you are 2 stitches past marker-2 (front right-hand side of neck and 8 stitches increased).
Turn, tighten the strand and work from the wrong side, increasing for raglan only on the body, to 2 stitches past where the short rows began (4 stitches increased).
Turn, tighten the strand and work from the right side to 2 stitches past where you turned last time – working A.2 over each A.1 and increasing for raglan on both sides of each A.2.
Turn, tighten the strand and work from the wrong side to 2 stitches past where you turned last time, increasing for raglan only on the body.
Cut the strand.

YOKE:
= 116-120-124-128-132-136 stitches. Work in the round over all stitches in the different sizes as follows:

SIZES XS, S, M and L:
Start mid-back, work stocking stitch, A.2, and increase raglan on the body and sleeves (on each side of A.2) every 2nd round 3-3-8-10 times = 140-144-188-208 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch, A.2 and increase for raglan, but every 2nd increase is only on the body (4 stitches increased); i.e. increase on the body every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round. Increase like this 18-20-16-18 times on the body (9-10-8-9 times on the sleeves). A total of 25-27-28-32 times on the body and 14-15-18-21 times on the sleeves. After the last increase there are 248-264-284-316 stitches. Go to ALL SIZES.

SIZES XL and XXL:
Start mid-back, work stocking stitch, A.2 and continue to increase for raglan every round on the body 2-6 more times and every 2nd round on the sleeves 1-3 times = 144-172 stitches.
Then increase on the body and sleeves (both sides of each A.2) every 2nd round 9-9 times = 216-244 stitches
Continue with stocking stitch, A.2 and increase for raglan, but every 2nd increase is only on the body (4 stitches increased) – increase on the body every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round. Increase like this 20-20 times on the body (10-10 times on the sleeves). A total of 35-39 times on the body and 22-24 times on the sleeves. After the last increase there are 336-364 stitches. Go to ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES.
= 248-264-284-316-336-364 stitches.
Work stocking stitch and A.2 without further increases until the yoke measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm after the neck, measured mid-front.
On the next round divide for the body and sleeves: Work 37-41-42-48-51-57 stitches (half back piece), place the next 49-51-57-63-65-69 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 75-81-85-95-103-113 stitches (front piece), place the next 49-51-57-63-65-69 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 38-40-43-47-52-56 stitches (half back piece).
Finish the body and sleeves separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 162-174-186-206-226-246 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches under each sleeve. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the split in each side.
Work stocking stitch in the round for a further 17 cm.
On the next round divide the piece at both markers, place 81-87-93-103-113-123 stitches between the markers on circular needle size 4 mm and keep the remaining 81-87-93-103-113-123 stitches on the circular needle size 5 mm.
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 20-20-22-24-24-28 stitches evenly spaced = 101-107-115-127-137-151 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side as follows: 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Place the last 81-87-93-103-113-123 stitches back on circular needle 4 mm and knit 1 row from the right side increasing 20-20-22-24-24-28 stitches evenly spaced = 101-107-115-127-137-151 stitches.
Work rib for 8 cm as for the first piece. Cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 49-51-57-63-65-69 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 55-57-65-71-75-79 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round for 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-6-3½-3-2½-2 cm a total of 6-6-9-11-12-13 times = 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-35-34-32-30 cm from the division (or to desired length. There is approx. 6 cm left). Knit 1 round and increase 9 stitches evenly spaced = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-40-38-36 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

This pattern has been corrected.

Updated online: 21.10.2022
Correction sizes under yoke.
Updated online: 23.11.2022
Correction under body: ribbing edge is worked with needle size 4 mm.

Diagram

symbols = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbols = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbols = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is knitted twisted on the next row (wrong side. No hole)
diagram
diagram
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What can you do with our patterns? You can share DROPS patterns online, using the pattern original picture, materials, name and number. But you are NOT ALLOWED to reproduce the complete pattern digitally in any way. Yarn stores are welcome to use the DROPS pattern database to promote the sale of our assortment. You can print out our patterns, make as many copies as you’d like. The only thing we ask is that you don't make any changes / additions to the original printed document. And that the patterns according to the DROPS philosophy are given out to the consumers for free. Editorials that wish to publish our patterns in printed books or magazines can contact us for more information. The sale of garments based on DROPS patterns is permitted as long as they are sold as single items or per order. Further commercial use of the patterns is not permitted. It has to be clearly stated that the garment is made based on a design from DROPS DESIGN. The use of clothing labels of which DROPS DESIGN forms part is conditioned by the inclusion of the following text: “A DROPS DESIGN made by …..”. The use of DROPS photos for marketing purposes/sales is only permitted in connection with the use/sale of DROPS products. The photos may not be cut or edited and the logo should be clearly visible.
We reserve the right to withdraw the permission for use of our patterns at any time, notwithstanding the reason.

Each of our patterns has specific tutorial videos to help you.

Do you have a question? See a list of frequently asked questions (FAQ)

Knitting tension is what determines the final measurements of your work, and is usually measured per 10 x 10 cm. It is provided like so: number of stitches in width x number of rows in height - eg: 19 stitches x 26 rows = 10 x 10 cm.

The knitting tension is very individual; some people knit/crochet loosely while others work tightly. You adjust the knitting tension with the needle size, which is why the suggested needle size is only meant as a guide! You need to adjust this (up or down) to ensure that YOUR knitting tension matches the knitting tension provided in the pattern. If you work with a different knitting tension than provided you will have a different yarn consumption, and your work will have different measurements than what the pattern suggests.

The knitting tension also determines which yarns can replace each other. As long as you achieve the same knitting tension you can replace one yarn with another.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a gauge tension swatch

The required amount of yarn is provided in grams, eg: 450 g. To calculate how many balls you’ll need you first need to know how many grams are in 1 ball (25g, 50g or 100g). This information is available if you click on the individual yarn quality on our pages. Divide the amount required with the amount of each ball. For example, if each ball is 50g (the most common amount), the calculation will be as follows: 450 / 50 = 9 balls.

The important thing when changing from one yarn to another is that the knitting/crochet tension remains the same. This is so that the measurements of the finished piece will be the same as on the sketch provided. It is easier to achieve the same knitting tension using yarns from the same yarn group. It is also possible to work with multiple strands of a thinner yarn to achieve the knitting tension of a thicker one. Please try our yarn converter. We recommend you to always work a test swatch.

Please NOTE: when changing yarn the garment might have a different look and feel to the garment in the photo, due to individual properties and qualities of each yarn.

See DROPS lesson: Can I use a different yarn than the one mentioned in the pattern?

All our yarns are categorised into yarn groups (from A to F) according to thickness and knitting tension – group A contains the thinnest yarns and group F the thickest. This makes it easier for you to find alternative yarns to our patterns, should you wish to switch yarn. All yarns within the same group have a similar knitting tension and can easily replace each other. However, different yarn qualities have different structures and properties which will give the finished work a unique look and feel.

Click here for an overview of the yarns in each yarn group

At the top of all our patterns you’ll find a link to our yarn calculator, which is a helpful tool should you wish to use a different yarn than suggested. By filling in the yarn quality you wish to replace, the amount (in your size) and number of strands, the calculator will present good alternative yarns with the same knitting tension. Additionally it will tell you how much you’ll require in the new qualities and whether you’ll need to work with multiple strands. Most skeins are 50g (some are 25g or 100g).

If the pattern is worked with multiple colours, every colour will have to be calculated separately. Similarly, if the pattern is worked with several strands of different yarns (for example 1 strand Alpaca and 1 strand Kid-Silk) you will have to find alternatives for each, individually.

Click here to see our yarn calculator

Since different yarns have different qualities and textures we have chosen to keep the original yarn in our patterns. However, you can easily find options among our available qualities by using our yarn calculator, or simply pick a yarn from the same yarn group.

It is possible that some retailers still have discontinued yarns in stock, or that someone has a few skeins at home that they would like to find patterns for.

The yarn calculator will provide both alternative yarn as well as required amount in the new quality.

If you think it's hard to decide what size to make, it can be a good idea to measure a garment you own already and like the size of. Then you can pick the size by comparing those measures with the ones available in the pattern's size chart.

You'll find the size chart at the bottom of the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read size chart

The needle size provided in the pattern serves only as a guide, the important thing is to follow the knitting tension. And since knitting tension is very individual, you will have to adjust the needle size to ensure that YOUR tension is the same as in the pattern – maybe you’ll have to adjust 1, or even 2 needle sizes, up or down to achieve the correct tension. For this, we recommend that you work test swatches.

Should you work with a different knitting tension than the one provided, the measurements of the finished garment might deviate from the measurement sketch.

See DROPS lesson: How to measure your tension/gauge

See DROPS video: How to make a tension/gauge swatch

Working a garment top-down provides more flexibility and room for personal adjustment. For example it is easier to try the garment on while working, as well as making adjustments to length of yoke and shoulder caps.

The instructions are carefully explaining every step, in the correct order. Diagrams are adjusted to the knitting direction and are worked as usual.

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is read from bottom to top, from right to left. 1 square = 1 stitch.

When working back and forth, every other row is worked from the right side and every other row is worked from the wrong side. When working from the wrong side, the diagram will have to be worked reversed: from left to right, knit stitches are purled, purl stitches are knit etc.

When working in the round every round is worked from the right side and the diagram are worked from right to left on all rounds.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

The diagram depicts all rows/rounds, and every stitch seen from the right side. It is worked from bottom to top, from right to left.

When working back and forth every other row is worked from the right side: from right to left and every other row is worked from the wrong side: from left to right.

When working in the round, every row in the diagram are worked from the right side, from right to left.

When working a circular diagram you start in the middle and work your way outwards, counter clockwise, row by row.

The rows usually start with a given number of chain stitches (equivalent to the height of the following stitch), this will either be depicted in the diagram or explained in the pattern.

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

Instructions for working several diagrams after each other on the same row/round, will often be written like so: “work A.1, A.2, A.3 a total of 0-0-2-3-4 times". This means you work A.1 once, then A.2 is worked once, and A.3 is repeated (in width) the number of times provided for your size – in this case like so: S = 0 times, M = 0 times, L=2 times, XL= 3 times and XXL = 4 times.

The diagrams are worked as usual: begin with the first row in A.1, then work the first row in A.2 etc.

See DROPS lesson: How to read knitting diagrams

See DROPS lesson: How to read crochet diagrams

The total width of the garment (from wrist-to-wrist) will be larger in the larger sizes, despite the actual sleeves being shorter. The larger sizes have longer sleeve caps and wider shoulders, so there will be a good fit in all sizes.

The measurement sketch/schematic drawing provides information regarding the full length of the garment. If it’s a jumper or a jacket the length is measured from the highest point on the shoulder closest to the neckline, and straight down to the bottom of the garment. It is NOT measured from the tip of shoulder. Similarly, the length of yoke is measured from the highest point on the shoulder and down to where yoke is split into body and sleeves.

On a jacket measures are never taken along bands, unless specifically stated. Always measure inside band stitches when measuring the length.

See DROPS lesson: How to read a schematic drawing

Diagrams are often repeated on the round or in height. 1 repeat is the diagram the way it appears in the pattern. If it says to work 5 repeats of A.1 in the round, then you work A.1 a total of 5 times after/next to each other in the round. If it says to work 2 repeats of A.1 vertically/in height you work the entire diagram once, then begin again at the start and work the entire diagram one more time.

Chain stitches are slightly narrower than other stitches and to avoid working the cast-on edge too tight, we simply chain more stitches to begin with. The stitch count will be adjusted on the following row to fit the pattern and measurement sketch.

The rib edge is more elastic and will contract slightly compared to, for example, stocking stitch. By increasing before the rib edge, you avoid a visible difference in width between the rib edge and the rest of the body.

It’s very easy to cast off too tightly, and by making yarn overs while casting off (and simultaneously casting these off) you avoid a too tight cast off edge.

See DROPS video: How to bind off with yarn overs (yo)

To achieve an even increase (or decrease) you can increase on, for example: every 3rd and 4th row alternately, like so: work 2 rows and increase on the 3rd row, work 3 rows and increase on the 4th. Repeat this until the increase is complete.

See DROPS lesson: Increase or decrease 1 st on every 3rd and 4th row alternately

Should you prefer to work in the round instead of back and forth, you may of course adjust the pattern. You’ll need to add steeks mid-front (usually 5 stitches), and follow the instructions. When you would normally turn and work from the wrong side, simply work across the steek and continue in the round. At the end you’ll cut the piece open, pick up stitches to work bands, and cover the cut edges.

See DROPS video: How to knit steeks and cut open

Should you prefer to work back and forth instead of in the round, you may of course adjust the pattern so you work the pieces separately and then assemble them at the end. Divide the stitches for the body in 2, add 1 edge stitch in each side (for sewing) and work the front and back pieces separately.

See DROPS lesson: Can I adapt a pattern for circular needles into straight needles?

Pattern repeats can vary slightly in the different sizes, in order to get the correct proportions. If you’re not working the exact same size as the garment in the photo, yours might deviate slightly. This has been carefully developed and adjusted so that the complete impression of the garment is the same in all sizes.

Make sure to follow instructions and diagrams for your size!

If you have found a pattern you like which is available in women’s size it’s not very difficult to convert it to men’s size. The biggest difference will be the length of sleeves and body. Start working on the women size that you think would fit across the chest. The additional length will be worked right before you cast off for the armhole/sleeve cap. If the pattern is worked top-down you can add the length right after the armhole or before the first decrease on sleeve.

Regarding additional yarn amount, this will depend on how much length you add, but it is better with a skein too many than too few.

All yarns will have excess fibres (from production) that might come off as lint or shedding. Brushed yarns (ie hairier yarns) have more of these loose, excess fibres, causing more shedding.

Shedding also depends on what is worn under or over the garment, and whether this pulls at the yarn fibres. It’s therefore not possible to guarantee that there will be no shedding

Below are some tips on how to get the best result when working with hairier yarns:

1. When the garment is finished (before you wash it) shake it vigorously so the looser hairs come off. NOTE: do NOT use a lint roller, brush or any method that pulls at the yarn.

2. Place the garment in a plastic bag and put it in your freezer - the temperature will cause the fibres to become less attached to each other, and excess fibres will come off easier.

3. Leave in the freezer for a few hours before taking it out and shaking it again.

4. Wash the garment according to the instructions on the yarn label.

Pilling is a natural process that happens to even the most exclusive of fibers. It's a natural sign of wear and tear that is hard to avoid, and that is most visible in high friction areas of your garment like a sweater's arms and cuffs.

You can make your garment look as new by removing the pilling, using a fabric comb or a pill/lint remover.

Still can't find the answer you need? Then scroll down and leave your question so one of our experts can try to help you. This will be done normally within 5 to 10 working days.
In the meantime, you can read the questions and answers that others have left to this pattern or join the DROPS Workshop on Facebook to get help from fellow knitters/crocheters!

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Comments / Questions (31)

country flag Marlene wrote:

Bonjour, Pour la mesure totale de l’empiècement «  21-23-25-27-29-31 cm après le col, mesurer le long du devant ». Le long du devant ? C’est le milieu du devant (entre deux marqueurs ?) ou le long du marqueur devant ? Le long du raglan ? Je vous remercie.

27.02.2023 - 14:43

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Marlene, on doit mesurer après le col, au milieu du devant, autrement dit entre les marqueurs des raglans et bien dans le sens du tricot. Bon tricot!

27.02.2023 - 16:07

country flag Celeste wrote:

Sorry, on my previous question, I made a mistake. The A1 pattern should read as this: [p 1, YO, k 1, YO, p 1].

05.02.2023 - 15:47

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Celese, correct, A.1 from RS will be worked P1, YO, K1, YO, P1 - these YO are for the pattern not for the raglan increases, you should increase before/after A.1 (see RAGLAN) - and on 2nd row work A.1 from WS (K2, P1, K2) then work A.2 (from RS = P2, K1, P2). Happy knitting!

06.02.2023 - 10:04

country flag Celeste wrote:

Could you please confirm how then to start and end this very first row of the neckline? This is what I have written down in order to assist me: starting 2 stitches before marker 3 - Yarn Over (raglan increase), followed by A1 [p 2, YO, k 1, YO, p2}, YO (raglan increase) then carry on knitting until the next marker and do the same. How do you then finish this first row before turning? If I do A1 and the 2 raglan increases I will finish on a YO - do I knit an extra stitch before turning?

05.02.2023 - 15:29

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Celeste, starting 2 sts before marker will let you start 2 stitches before the stitch with the 2nd marker, k1, *YO (increase for raglan) then work A.1 (= Purl 1 (the first 2 sts before 2nd marker are worked), YO (increase for diagram), K, YO (increase for diagram, P), YO (increase for raglan)*, knit until next marker and repeat from *-*. From wrong side, purl twisted the yarn overs on each side of A.1 and work the 5 sts in A.1 (P2, K1, P2) increasing after/before A.1 on front and back piece only (increase 4 sts). Happy knitting!

06.02.2023 - 10:03

country flag Ida Lohmann wrote:

Efter halsen er jeg meget i tvivl om, hvordan jeg kommer videre. A1: jeg skal tage ud på vrangsiden - hvor og hvordan gøres dette? Det er ikke nemt at gennemskue :-) er dette efter den drejet ret, eller er det før de to retmasker på vrangsiden? Mh Ida

26.12.2022 - 23:38

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Ida. Du øker til raglan på hver siden av A.1 fra retten og når du snur og strikker fra vrangen økes det kun til raglan på bolen, SAMTIDIG som kastene strikkes. Da må du lese forklaringen til hvordan kastene strikkes fra vrangen før/etter merket. Les hele avsnittet til RAGLAN. Se også hjelpevideoen nederst på oppskriften: Hvordan øke til raglan samtidig som det strikkes forkortete pinner mvh DROPSDesign

02.01.2023 - 13:21

country flag Frances wrote:

In confused again - I'm working the small size - when I finished the yoke increases I had 264 stitches as it says in the pattern - after I had divided for the body and sleeves and cast on 6 stitches twice (12 stitches in total ) the pattern says I should have 274 stitches - but 264+12=276 - how many stitches should I have? Oops sorry I just realise I hadn't read the pattern right - ignore this question

08.12.2022 - 14:28

country flag Frances wrote:

In confused again - I'm working the small size - when I finished the yoke increases I had 264 stitches as it says in the pattern - after I had divided for the body and sleeves and cast on 6 stitches twice (12 stitches in total ) the pattern says I should have 274 stitches - but 264+12=276 - how many stitches should I have?

08.12.2022 - 14:20

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Frances, when piece measures 23 cm, you will divide piece for sleeve, ie slip the 51 sts for each sleeve on a thread and cast on 6 new sts for under sleeve, so that you will have from mid back: 41 sts (mid back), 6 new sts, 81 sts (front piece), 6 sts, 40 sts (mid back) = 41+6+81+6+40=174 sts for body (and 2 threads with each 51 sts for sleeves). Happy knitting!

08.12.2022 - 17:27

country flag Frances wrote:

When working the yoke for the small size do I work the raglan increase in the 4th row as well as doing the sleeves increase - increasing 8 stitches

06.12.2022 - 11:57

DROPS Design answered:

Dear Frances, in size XS you first increase on body + sleeve (8 sts) on every other round = 140 sts in total, then increase on body on every 2nd round and on sleeves on every 4th round (alternately 4 and 8 sts) a total of 18 times on body (9 times on sleeves) = 248 sts. Happy knitting!

06.12.2022 - 16:19

country flag Satu wrote:

Hei, joku ilm. Kysyikin jo norjaksi, mutta en ymmärrä. Lisäys + raglan 8+4+8+4 +92 niin summa ei ole 124. Missä puuttuvat 8 silmukkaa?

30.11.2022 - 20:17

country flag Jessica wrote:

Bonjour, Est-ce qu’il ne faut pas reprendre les aiguilles 4 pour les côtes en bas du dos et devant, ou reste-on bien avec les aiguilles 5? Merci!

22.11.2022 - 17:12

DROPS Design answered:

Bonjour Jessica, on doit effectivement continuer avec l'aiguille 4 - la correction a été faite, merci pour votre retour. Bonne continuation!

23.11.2022 - 08:44

country flag Eva Olsen wrote:

Str m starter med 92 masker. Efter halskant skal tages 8+4+8+4 masker ud = 116 masker. Ifølge opskrift skal der nu være 124 masker. Er der noget jeg har misforstået?

22.11.2022 - 13:54

DROPS Design answered:

Hei Eva. Ser ut som du har glemt økningne i selve diagram A.1, 1. omgang. Du øker som du skriver til raglan ( 8+4+8+4), men når du strikker A.1 er det også 2 økninger i selve diagrammet. Du strikker A.1 4 ganger = 8 økte masker + raglanøkningene = 8+8+4+8+4+92= 124 masker. mvh DROPS Design

28.11.2022 - 09:36

October Breeze



Knitted jumper in DROPS Nepal. The piece is worked top down with double neck and raglan. Sizes XS - XXL.

DROPS 236-14
DROPS Design: Pattern ne-362
Yarn group C or A + A
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SIZES:
XS - S - M - L - XL - XXL

MATERIALS:
DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (belongs to yarn group C)
500-550-600-650-700-800 g colour 8914, red clay

NEEDLES:
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 5 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS CIRCULAR NEEDLE SIZE 4 MM: Length 40 cm and 80 cm.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 5 MM.
DROPS DOUBLE POINTED NEEDLES SIZE 4 MM.
The technique MAGIC LOOP can be used – you then only need circular needle of 80 cm in each size.

KNITTING TENSION:
17 stitches in width and 22 rows in height with stocking stitch = 10 x 10 cm.
NOTE: Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on 10 cm, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm, change to a smaller needle size.

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EXPLANATIONS FOR THE PATTERN:
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RIDGE/GARTER STITCH (worked back and forth):
Knit all rows.
1 ridge = knit 2 rows.

PATTERN:
See diagrams A.1 and A.2. The diagrams show all rows in the pattern from the right side.

RAGLAN:
All increases before/after A.1/A.2 (marker-stitch is the middle stitch in A.1/A.2).
Increase for the body before markers 1 and 3 and after markers 2 and 4 when working from the right side and after markers 1 and 3 and before markers 2 and 4 when working from the wrong side.
Increase for the sleeves after markers 1 and 3 and before markers 2 and 4 (always increase from the right side on the sleeves).
Increase 1 stitch by making 1 yarn over.

The yarn overs are worked as follows from the wrong side:
BEFORE MARKER:
Purl the back loop. No hole.
AFTER MARKER:
Slip the yarn-over off the left needle and replace it twisted (insert the left needle from the back when replacing it). Purl the front loop. No hole.

The yarn overs are worked as follows from the right side:
BEFORE MARKER:
Slip the yarn-over off the left needle and replace it twisted (insert the left needle from the back when replacing it). Knit the front loop. The stitch twists to the right. No hole.
AFTER MARKER:
Knit the back loop (the stitch twists to the left). No hole.

DECREASE TIP (for sleeves):
Start 3 stitches before the marker, knit 2 together, knit 2 (marker sits between these 2 stitches), slip 1 stitch as if to knit, knit 1 and pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.

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START THE PIECE HERE:

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JUMPER – SHORT OVERVIEW OF THE PIECE:
The neck and yoke are worked in the round with circular needle, from mid back and top down. The yoke is divided for body and sleeves and the body is continued in the round with circular needle. The sleeves are worked with short circular needle/double pointed needles.

DOUBLE NECK:
Cast on 84-88-92-96-100-104 stitches with DROPS Nepal using short circular needles size 4 and 5 mm held together. Remove the needle size 5 mm keeping the stitches on the needle size 4 mm (this gives you an elastic cast-on edge). Work rib in the round (knit 1, purl 1) for 9 cm.
Fold the neck double to the inside and work 1 more round of rib, working every 2nd stitch together with its corresponding stitch on the cast-on edge.
You now have a double neck.

Insert 4 markers without working the stitches, which are then used when increasing to raglan.
Count 10-12-12-14-14-16 stitches (half back piece), insert marker-1 in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-2 in the next stitch, count 21-23-25-27-29-31 stitches (front piece), insert marker-3 in the next stitch, count 19 stitches (sleeve), insert marker-4 in the next stitch, there are 11-11-13-13-15-15 stitches left after the last marker (half back piece). Cut the strand.

NECK-LINE:
Change to circular needle size 5 mm. Now work a neck-line with short rows AT THE SAME TIME as increasing for raglan. In addition work A.1 at each marker (marker-stitch is the middle stitch in A.1):
Start from the right side, 2 stitches before marker-3 (front left-hand side of the neck when the garment is worn). Work stocking stitch, A.1 and increase for RAGLAN on both sides of each A.1 – read description above, until you are 2 stitches past marker-2 (front right-hand side of neck and 8 stitches increased).
Turn, tighten the strand and work from the wrong side, increasing for raglan only on the body, to 2 stitches past where the short rows began (4 stitches increased).
Turn, tighten the strand and work from the right side to 2 stitches past where you turned last time – working A.2 over each A.1 and increasing for raglan on both sides of each A.2.
Turn, tighten the strand and work from the wrong side to 2 stitches past where you turned last time, increasing for raglan only on the body.
Cut the strand.

YOKE:
= 116-120-124-128-132-136 stitches. Work in the round over all stitches in the different sizes as follows:

SIZES XS, S, M and L:
Start mid-back, work stocking stitch, A.2, and increase raglan on the body and sleeves (on each side of A.2) every 2nd round 3-3-8-10 times = 140-144-188-208 stitches.
Continue with stocking stitch, A.2 and increase for raglan, but every 2nd increase is only on the body (4 stitches increased); i.e. increase on the body every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round. Increase like this 18-20-16-18 times on the body (9-10-8-9 times on the sleeves). A total of 25-27-28-32 times on the body and 14-15-18-21 times on the sleeves. After the last increase there are 248-264-284-316 stitches. Go to ALL SIZES.

SIZES XL and XXL:
Start mid-back, work stocking stitch, A.2 and continue to increase for raglan every round on the body 2-6 more times and every 2nd round on the sleeves 1-3 times = 144-172 stitches.
Then increase on the body and sleeves (both sides of each A.2) every 2nd round 9-9 times = 216-244 stitches
Continue with stocking stitch, A.2 and increase for raglan, but every 2nd increase is only on the body (4 stitches increased) – increase on the body every 2nd round and on the sleeves every 4th round. Increase like this 20-20 times on the body (10-10 times on the sleeves). A total of 35-39 times on the body and 22-24 times on the sleeves. After the last increase there are 336-364 stitches. Go to ALL SIZES.

ALL SIZES.
= 248-264-284-316-336-364 stitches.
Work stocking stitch and A.2 without further increases until the yoke measures 21-23-25-27-29-31 cm after the neck, measured mid-front.
On the next round divide for the body and sleeves: Work 37-41-42-48-51-57 stitches (half back piece), place the next 49-51-57-63-65-69 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 75-81-85-95-103-113 stitches (front piece), place the next 49-51-57-63-65-69 stitches on a thread for the sleeve, cast on 6-6-8-8-10-10 stitches (in side under sleeve), work 38-40-43-47-52-56 stitches (half back piece).
Finish the body and sleeves separately. The piece is now measured from here!

BODY:
= 162-174-186-206-226-246 stitches. Insert 1 marker in the middle of the new stitches under each sleeve. Allow the markers to follow your work onwards; they are used when working the split in each side.
Work stocking stitch in the round for a further 17 cm.
On the next round divide the piece at both markers, place 81-87-93-103-113-123 stitches between the markers on circular needle size 4 mm and keep the remaining 81-87-93-103-113-123 stitches on the circular needle size 5 mm.
Knit 1 row from the right side and increase 20-20-22-24-24-28 stitches evenly spaced = 101-107-115-127-137-151 stitches.
Work back from the wrong side as follows: 1 stitch in GARTER STITCH – read description above, * purl 1, knit 1 *, work from *-* until there are 2 stitches left, purl 1 and 1 stitch in garter stitch. Continue this rib for 8 cm. Cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl.
Place the last 81-87-93-103-113-123 stitches back on circular needle 4 mm and knit 1 row from the right side increasing 20-20-22-24-24-28 stitches evenly spaced = 101-107-115-127-137-151 stitches.
Work rib for 8 cm as for the first piece. Cast off a little loosely with knit over knit and purl over purl. The jumper measures approx. 52-54-56-58-60-62 cm from the shoulder down.

SLEEVES:
Place the 49-51-57-63-65-69 stitches from the thread on the one side of the piece on short circular needle/double pointed needles size 5 mm and knit up 1 stitch in each of the new stitches cast on under the sleeve = 55-57-65-71-75-79 stitches. Insert a marker in the middle of the new stitches under the sleeve. Allow the marker to follow your work onwards; it is used when decreasing under the sleeve.
Work stocking stitch in the round for 4-4-4-3-3-3 cm. Now decrease 2 stitches on each side of the marker – read DECREASE TIP. Decrease like this every 6-6-3½-3-2½-2 cm a total of 6-6-9-11-12-13 times = 43-45-47-49-51-53 stitches. Continue working until the sleeve measures 38-37-35-34-32-30 cm from the division (or to desired length. There is approx. 6 cm left). Knit 1 round and increase 9 stitches evenly spaced = 52-54-56-58-60-62 stitches. Change to double pointed needles size 4 mm and work rib (knit 1, purl 1) for 6 cm. Loosely cast off with knit over knit and purl over purl. The sleeve measures approx. 44-43-41-40-38-36 cm from the division.
Work the other sleeve in the same way.

Diagram explanations
symbol = knit from right side, purl from wrong side
symbol = purl from right side, knit from wrong side
symbol = between 2 stitches make 1 yarn over, which is knitted twisted on the next row (wrong side. No hole)

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